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couple of garden shots taken today with my samsing A20e. taken by my 5yr old, who asked to borrow my camera for a minute, after staring up into the burch for a few mins... look closely he got a decent shot of a fledging sitting on a branch

For anyone curious to see what the inside of either the Pirelli or Hankook self sealing tyres fitted to the Kodiaq looks like... Self Seal Tyre.mp4

Hi Guys, Thanks for all the responses, The mapping software is by Viezu Technologies. Viezu are an award winning (Queens award) remapping service. This award is presented by the Queen herself to businesses for their testament and accolades to their industry. I guess they have not got the software sorted for this model.

I was finally able to collect it ,I ordered in March and Covid-19 delayed my pick up by about a month which was pretty frustrating. I went for the 2.0 TSI 272 and a few options. I have to say I absolutely love this car, it is such a pleasure to drive. I haven't owned a car for about 10 years as I was living in London. The last car I owned was a 1.0L Seat Arosa 😂 Excuse my pad parking!

It'll probably be the black hex adjustment screw above the fog lamp, to the right of this picture:

This thread is 4 months in the making (because I am exceptionally lazy) but the project is finally complete. Long story short I have a 2010 Octavia Elegance and I wanted to upgrade the standard Bolero headunit to something with bluetooth and DAB. I also wanted to have navigation if possible but this wasn't an absolute requirement. I also wanted to keep the CANBUS functionality of the OEM headunit, mainly the HVAC and parking sensor display. After discovering with absolute disbelief the insane prices that Columbus/Amundsen+ headunits go for and considering they are quite dated now, I settled on a cheap Android headunit from eBay. This is the one I purchased: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/253355453163 For some reason the seller has massive inflated the price of it - it was £199.99 and I submitted an offer for £180 in December 2019 which was accepted. It arrived after about a week (apparently from the UK): I pretty quickly got around to fitting it once there was a decent gap in the terrible weather we had over December and early January. One thing I'm glad about with the Octavia is that the headunit is held in with torx bolts, and you don't have to mess around with stupid release keys to get it out. You just need a long enough T20 torx driver which I thankfully had. The plastic trim just pops off with a flat screwdriver. Out of the box the headunit has FM radio, bluetooth, CD/DVD player, WiFi, CANBUS decoder, two microSD card slots, and an absolute multitude of inputs on the rear: As you can see it has the quadlock connector and a double Fakra connector so it truly is plug and play. There is an input on the rear for an external microphone (which is included) but there's also a mic built in to the headunit which I've found out works sufficiently well so I didn't bother with the external mic. I also didn't fit the included GPS antenna which I'll explain further down. The manufacturer makes a load of extras you can add on to this such as tyre pressure monitoring (you have to screw sensor caps onto the valves, which gives you active TPMS), front and rear camera inputs (front can be recorded like a dash cam, rear is just for reversing I think and comes up automatically when you select reverse), DAB/DAB+ radio, even a 3G/4G dongle so you can keep the headunit connected to the internet at all times. After a couple of weeks of tweaking settings and volume levels etc I was at a point where I was pretty happy. The FM radio app works pretty well, and I also installed Plex from the Google Play store as I run a Plex media server at home which contains a lot of my music. I can tether the headunit to my phone to stream music when I'm out and about, or I can sync music for offline listening while my car is on the driveway and in range of my home WiFi. All in all I was happy. I purchased the DAB module (about £30 I think) which arrived fairly quickly. It connects to the headunit via one of the rear USB ports, so I've just stuffed it down the back of the console. I didn't want to use the supplied GPS antenna (the little black box you're supposed to stick on your dashboard somewhere), or the supplied DAB antenna (one of those stupid stick-on things that goes in the top corner of the windscreen). I did want GPS and DAB but without the ugly antennas and after a lot of research I settled on the best (but probably most expensive) option as suggested by @langers2k which was to change the standard roof aerial for one which has GPS and DAB built in. Thankfully VAG make a shark fin aerial with GPS and DAB as they obviously sell cars which can come with those things from the factory. There just so happened to be a brand new one of these on eBay for £70 buy it now that someone had bought for a VW Polo and never ended up fitting so I bought it. As you can see there are 4 connectors coming from the aerial, these are FM/DAB (white), DAB (black), GPS (blue), and GSM (violet). The GSM antenna is used in cars with factory telephone preparation, as some headunits have rSAP so when a compatible phone is connected by bluetooth, the stereo can make calls through the SIM card using an external aerial for better reception. The standard aerial on cars without GPS/DAB/etc only have a single connector - the white FM/DAB one. Replacing the aerial is very easy, you just pull a plastic trim in the boot off by hand and then you can pull down the headliner. The aerial is held in with one massive nut (I think it's 19mm) that you can't really see but it's very easy to feel. Obviously my car didn't have the wiring in place for the extra antennas so I had to order a few cables and adapters from chinarf on eBay in order to connect everything. I needed two 5m extension cables (one for DAB and one for GPS) and then a short patch cable for each to convert from Fakra to the appropriate connector. Putting these cables in was very easy, I used some semi-flexible cable fishing rods to push the cables through to the passenger A pillar where I pulled the trim off to receive the cables. It was pretty easy although annoyingly I snapped one of the cables after it got snagged on something and I yanked it, so I had to order another one from chinarf and wait another 3 weeks. I ran the cables down the passenger A pillar and behind the dashboard into where the headunit is. This is quite tricky unless you have very small hands! Connected everything up and it all worked wonderfully I am very impressed with the DAB radio, it actually sounds better than FM from this stereo. The reception from the OEM shark fin aerial is excellent. The navigation is flawless and works nicely in Google Maps. I haven't tried any other navigation apps yet. Only thing left to do is add a reversing camera. The headunit has a composite video input on the back so any basic camera should work. My intention was to get one that's built into the boot button like this: End.

Working on my car bit by bit. Got this beauty installed today Love it. Strait from carbon-fibre master from Mother Russia (I am not joking ) . Quality is just amazing! real carbon. #carbonfibre

Hi Guys, Can anyone confirm the ECU can be remapped on a 2020 Kodiaq, 190 ps Diesel? I have been told by one company " ECU in your vehicle and it would seem that it is in fact a variation of ECU which has yet to be unlocked to enable remapping through the OBD port" Is it possible to confirm this? Thanks a lot

Make sure you use the OEM part number in the title when you advertise it, or buyers won't find it amongst the millions of Skoda items that are advertised. In the description, include the OEM number in various formats such as XXXXXXXXX and XXX XXX XXX X, etc.

Ah that's good to know, still got the box and it's wrapped in bubble wrap too. Also kept the support bar that the tow bar fitter removed to fit the tow bar.

Thanks for the responce guys! Works a treat.

No probs

Even easier, just use the double sided sticky foam tape, then you can block the holes to keep the water out. Modern adhesives means there's no need for 1970's technology.

Dear forum members, My name is Kirill. I live in Berlin and own Skoda Octavia 2019. I'm happy that I've found this community, and I hope to have some meaningful conversations here on different topics. I love to travel by car with my family and explore new places. I've already visited 12 countries (in Europe) and would like to expand the geography of our trips. I'm also fond of singing and playing guitar, and I do programming for a living. I'm not a native English speaker, so excuse me if you find some mistakes in my posts.

Greeting from Hamburg

I had this issue, variable service done but, service set to fixed, so 11 months on it's saying service due in 30 days. Spoke to dealer and "eventually" found out that even if if that interval is reset, the ECU monitors the cars driving style. mileage and oil condition to estimate when a new service is due, normally around 18,000 - 20,000 miles or 18-20 months. To reset Hold dash reset trip button in with ignition off Turn ignition on Shows "Reset Service Interval" Press trip reset twice - "quite quickly" Dash shows service interval set for 365 days Sorted 🙂

Fatigue failure, on the MK2's they fail in the same way but only when they are completely rusted to hell and the material has lost most of its thickness. I would say that they have found a source of even thinner tin foil to make them out of if they are failing when there is no sign of rust, the dished part is a stress raiser but either the material is more brittle or thinner than before, probably the former to permit the latter.

I HAD A jETEX ON ONE WHICH WAS A NICE FIT AND GOOD SOUND , NOT TOO LOUD

Has it been standing for long periods during lock down with only the odd short journey? If so it could be just a low battery which needs a good long run to get it back up. There have been a few posts on this subject. Mine did the same a few weeks ago. Actually failed to start start on the key after 4 weeks without use & needed a boost charge to get it going. Also the Stop start hasn't kicked in whilst driving for at least 5 weeks now - which is no great loss. Presumably this is due to low charge state of the battery due low usage & short runs. Yours could be a new battery but my guess is its lack of use. If you have one stick a charger on the battery on a trickle charge setting for a few days & see how you go.

Cool, thanks and no worries we are due to go for a trip and wanted to update the maps, suddenly thought i hadn't updated the Speed Cams for a while - so glad i checked. I hope all is ok with the personal issues now. In reply to the traffic comment, i don't know about others but i have found it to be pretty reliable - of course there have been incidents which have happened just as we approach or within a few minutes, and the system has for the most part not known then and there, but i'm ok with that because i'm not sure that even TomTom would know!

Do you mean if you can use the same pads on the Octavia? I believe you should as from the schematics, it seems the "top mounts" at the rear (item no.5) are the same part 5Q0512149A for both the multi-link and torsion beam versions. In both setups the spring and shock are placed independently anyway.

The battery will charge constantly at a normal rate up to about 75-80%, after that, it only charges on overrun (while the wheels are spinning the engine - i.e decelerating in gear). If you disconnect the monitoring connector on the -ve terminal of the battery, it defaults to the old style standard charge mode, where it'll charge at a steady rate until 100%. If you still get issues after a good drive like that. Get one of those 12v socket phone chargers with voltage reading. If the battery is dropping a significant voltage overnight then there could be an issue with the car or the battery. There was a software update a couple years back related to power management, might be worth contacting the dealer to see if that's been done. That supposedly helped fix some power drain issues from components not shutting off correctly.

oh no its always stopped after a minute or so

I reckon I could manage a hedge backwards if I try hard

Fast 4x4s, I don't really 'get' (says the owner of a JCW countryman).

Mine did the exact same on my 15 plate Scout when I had it ---- I replaced both front ones in the end as the other looked iffy. It is a disc off job

True but the shvs Ignis and swift are the old 1.2 non-turbo and having driven one they are a bit lacklustre. A 1.0 boosterjet in an Ignis would be great as well though and should be even easier as it's the same heartech platform as the swift

I'm not sure how calculated Bottas is being, either with the qualy run-off which should have slowed down everyone else (esp lewis) or with backing Lewis up to the chasing pack so that his penalty has a worse effect, but if it's helping Lewis realise that he's not going to get everything his own way then I'm not complaining

just FYI - they would not let me go out with the technician - not allowed at my dealership group at the moment. Even if we were both masked up and so forth. He had to go alone so if you have an issue where you feel it needs the technician in the car with you then its not going to happen just now. Not at least with the Marshall's group of dealerships. Even though I was told by the (less than impressive) service desk personnel that I was. It was quite funny actually - I had to sit there and wait for about 2 hours and I had one customer come in and have a bit of a barney about a £500+ quote for a spark plug and oil change on a V6 Golf. He said it was a F*****g rip-off and made quite a song and dance about it. I did chuckle. He has a point though - how can these dealership service departments justify the nearly twice the price of servicing compared to independent VAG specialist garages. To pay for all the shiny showrooms I guess. It certainly doesn't seem to go into training for service reception front desk people. Wouldn't you expect this group (the ones that have to interact with (sometimes) anxious/confused/exasperated customers to be the ones that really know there stuff on pricing, service regimes for each model and the differences between long life and regular service regimes, the offers that are on the Skoda Website (e.g. fixed price servicing offers) etc. etc. It seems its up to the customer to tell them and then get "Oh yea" - "I didn't know that" or similar. Fair enough - charge twice the price per hour but be twice as good if you are going to 🙂

Mine is the 1.4 TSI with a factory fitted tow bar so the modified grill was fitted at the factory. There has been lots of discussion on what is actually part of the factory upgrade that is associated with the tow bar which covers the grill, radiator fans, battery and alternator, but looking at my car the only obvious change is the grill which essentially has a few more of the slots in between the vertical slats opened up to improve air flow. In the UK it is rare for us to experience the extreme summer temperatures experienced in other countries so unless you're towing up a steep incline for mile after mile at maximum towing capacity and therefore high engine loads then I very much doubt you'll ever see an issue.

Welcome

https://www.viezu.com Their IT / Site is a bit crap. I put in 4 vehicle registration numbers and not one was recognised. I am pretty certain that The Queen was not researching having the Bentley, Range Rover and Philips Stock Car remapped and used them personally and thought lets give them an award. (He maybe used them for services to the heir to the crown....) Someone will have told her that she was going to be giving them an award. After all she made Iain Duncan-Smith a title and what a useless human being he is. PS, She asked Boris to form a government and sadly that never came with a 30 day return to as was in the small print.

Thanks for all the advice, I have decided to go ahead and change the cambelt and water pump myself as the job doesn't look too complex and I have a haynes manual which shows me the process.

Interesting that that looks like a fatigue failure. If it is, I wonder if they just can’t take the vibration or something else. wonder if there is a modified version.

Never had a problem opening ours after 30 months and nearly 26,000 miles. Need to treat it gently like a woman and access will be provided.

thanks for the link -very useful; just what was needed Calderman

Whats the build quality like? I've read mixed reports.

I had a UK mot done before reregistering the Yeti in France, my pal who is the tester picked up that a foglight beam was too high (probably from the accident) and adjusted it. I have also had the same during a CT test in France on the Octavia so I know they put the beam tester on them and assume its part of the test régime but the French CT guy is a friend also so maybe not. Certainly if misaligned they are equally problematic to oncoming traffic as misaligned headlamps. Editted. I googled, you are right, ony testable after 2018 and maybe it could be failed under B2 defective lens "such that emitted light is adversely affected"

Thanks so much for the advice, unfortunately we had the tow bar fitted yesterday by a local reputable guy, he's been fitting towbars for 20 plus years, he's fitted most of the tow bars around here, 3 of our own cars in the past and other kodiaqs before too, skoda wanted £1300 to fit it and he did it considerably less (£750) although it's not a genuine skoda towbar skoda told me that as long as we replaced the front grill with the required grill it wouldn't affect our warranty.

So, having now put a few miles on the new tyres I can report they are certainly an improvement over the Avons, not that they were ever bad. In the dry they just inspire a little more confidence but in the wet they're a big improvement with more of a feeling that they're providing much better grip on corners. It may be down to to tread depth but I certainly feel happier. On an unconnected note, I'm starting to think about a new exhaust. I plan on keeping this at least 3 more years and it's still on the original system but it's on it's last legs from the cat back. I don't want much more noise and am not looking for more performance (it would be a bonus tho') but I'm thinking of a stainless steel upgrade. Ideally I'd like to keep the original tail trim to keep it looking standard so might have a look at a longlife from Tony Banks in Leeds as I've heard good things and hopefully they could do something. Any other recommendations around the Sheffield area would be welcome.

Wife's Yeti 110 now comes up with the dreaded orange icon on the screen and puts the car into limp mode. Plugged in the Ross Kemp VCDS and it shows the old fault with the EGR valve that came up some 5,000 miles ago and cleared it down. Is there a way you can access the EGR valve and run it manually closed and open on the software and also can you actually switch of the limp mode so that every time the EGR valve plays up the wife will not have to crawl home from the hospital. Have taken one out of my own Combo van and cleaned it up as it was coked up badly as it is on the top at the back of the engine and put back with success but the Yeti 110 2litre diesel has been placed in a crazy place underneath to strip it down. Many thanks for any help.

Take a look at the inside of your fuel filler flap. There should be tyre pressures listed for the various tyre sizes that were fitted to the Octavia Scout from the factory. According to wheel-size.com the standard tyre size was 225/50R17 fitted to a 7Jx17 ET50 rim. This has a bigger outside diameter than the non-Scout versions. It looks like the diameter of the front brake discs are 280mm/288mm which means that 15" rims would fit. Maybe you could see if a standard Octavia MK2 wheel kit would fit. 195/65R15 would get you home, but 205/70R15 would better match the outside diameter of 225/50R17 tyres. Another option is 16" rims with possibly 205/55R16 tyres but this like the 195/65R15 is a tyre size from a standard Octavia not the Octavia Scout. 15Jx15 ET47 steel rim from the Octavia MK2 non-Scout model https://www.autodoc.co.uk/alcar/14750831 6Jx15 ET43 steel rim from the Octavia MK3 https://www.autodoc.co.uk/alcar/14750637 Vredestein Quatrac 5 205/70R15 96T https://www.oponeo.co.uk/tyre/vredestein-quatrac-5-205-70-r15-96-t#305410811 The T-speed rated tyre means you are limited to 190km/h (118mph) but as a winter rated all-season tyre, (ie. 3PMSF symbol) is allowable. Don't exceed 118mph with T-speed rated tyres, and don't exceed 50mph (80km/h) when using different sized tyres on the same axle.

I would have thought fuse 51 but it's showing it as missing on the fuse box diagram.

Yup, plenty of sellers on eBay are happy to change the CID before dispatching cards too. Once 32GB is required, I'd expect to see a spike of eBay sellers offering suitable cards ;)

Hi, this is taken from Ross Tech WiKi I would run an Autoscan to make sure there are no outstanding fault codes that would prevent it doing a re-generation, such as EGR or Injector or timing errors. Where the text states 'Regeneraration while standing' that refers to Service Regeneration It also states that 'this may take 30 minutes' mine took nearly 40. You can check out quite a lot at Ross Tech, download their manual, FAQ's, Support, WiKi pages and there own Forum. In the measuring data if you type 'partic' in the search box it will bring up the measuring blocks you need to measure the soot and ash content. You can do this without doing a regeneration. To answer your question, yes it would reset to '0' but if there is any residual ash then obviously that might distort the reading a bit. I reset mine after a 'chemical clean' using the JML 2 stage process so not too sure what medium / long term effect resetting the value after it has been running will have. Hope this is some help? 1.6l/2.0l R4 CR-TDI (CAN) With the newer CR-TDI engines there are 2 different types of regenerations available depending on the actual soot mass/load. If either the calculated or measured soot mass is above 30g but below 40g you can initiate a regeneration while standing (Idle will be raised etc.), a forced regeneration while driving is also possible. Once the values are above 40g (but below the max 45g) the regeneration while standing is no longer available and the regeneration while driving is the only way. Regeneration while Standing/Idle Prerequisites (General): Ignition ON Engine ON (Idle) Fuel Tank at least 1/4 full Transmission in Neutral/Park Parking Brake engaged Coolant Temperature above 70 °C (see MVB 002.4) Particle Filter Load below Specification (see MVB 108.2/3 -or- 241.2/3 VCDS should give the specified values) If the Particle Filter Load is above Specification the Particle Filter needs to be replaced since the car may burn down when regenerating. Power Consumers ON (Light, Seat Heating, Front/Rear Window Heater, Climate Control) Engine Hood Closed [Select] [01 - Engine] [Security Access - 16] Enter the Code shown by VCDS next to Adaptation Enabling (e.g. Regeneration while Standing) [Do It!] [Basic Settings - 04] Select Block for Regeneration while Standing [Go!] [On/Off/Next] if Basic Settings isn't automatically ON at the top of the screen. Follow the Instructions on the Screen. This process may take up to 30 minutes. [Done, Go Back] Check the following groups after the regen. The Particle Filter Load should be as low as possible (close to 0 %) [Meas. Blocks - 08] Select Blocks 099 and 108 at once. [Go!] MVB 099.2: Exhaust Gas Temperature before Turbo Charger MVB 099.3: Exhaust Gas Temperature before Particle Filter MVB 099.4: Exhaust Gas Temperature after Particle Filter MVB 108.2: Particle Filter Soot Mass (calculated) Alternate group 241.2 if 108 is blank MVB 108.3: Particle Filter Soot Mass (measured) Alternate group 241.3 if 108 is blank [Done, Go Back] [Close Controller, Go Back - 06]

Went along to Hastings old town today, my favourite shot is this hole in a boat..

Check yours by all means but mine wont pick up the revs until it detects the wheels turning. It got an emissions test exemption on the UK MOT for that very reason. Have others had their cars with this dumb feature emission tested at MOT?

Only been on the forum a bit, and just signed up to freedom, Getting the hang of the various topics. I got my D850 about a year ago, epic machine, Have had the D750 for about 4 years. One of the reasons i bought the Yeti was for my photography adventures in the winter, and the summer with the current rain. I studied photography at Sunderland University, and do a bit of commercial photography alongside my Music (Organist) and being an undertaker. I spent a week on the Isle of skye back in November, Took the D850 with me, We stayed in the cottage seen in the distance, Shot this Panoramic 110 HDR images stiched together. Facebook has killed some of the quality but still looks canny...

you do not need to code the battery, he has no battery monitor so will make not a jot of difference.