mac11irl

Little Donkey meets the basic criteria, and tbh an EV is what really suits my needs now.

Missus mac is on her second auto Arona. It’s not a bad car for what it is. I just wish manufacturers would get off the “compact SUV” bandwagon. It isn’t really any bigger than a focus, just a bit puffier on the outside.

C4 Cactus /Aircross

I second the Grandland. Drove one once, briefly, awful.

Well don’t leave, we’ll all want to hear about life with the Audi too, And you still be able to help people out around here with your Superb experience

Try unplugging the MAF sensor. If it changes, try plugging it back in and see what happens. The maf may be dying or possibly it was disconnected and not plugged back in fully causing bad sensor info to be sent to the ECU causing the revs the hunt

Original thread information - pasted here for convenience. about a month ago i had the fuse box under the battery replaced by main dealer, very expensive my lights were flashing all over the dashboard. That cured it but the last month or So my tick over fluctuates between 1000/1400. Have cleaned throttle body but no change. Any suggestions. Thanks

Second thread -

you’re not really giving us any information that might help anybody start figuring out what might be causing it…

Is this related to your previous thread?

Holy thread revival Batman!!! Mine broke a couple of weeks ago.. Can confirm it’s 2 torx screws that it in. Skoda parts have them for about €12, plus delivery. Note that it does not include the outer cover, so don’t break that taking it off. It just pops off gently. it’s nice to see companies using the smallest reasonable packaging for items to be shipped… ignore the empty jar in the sink. Anyway.. Took about 80 seconds for Spud Sr to swap it for me. He wanted to try, I let him have a go. He’s 11, so that’s how simple it is.

Hi, Curious about the issue, I know that new members have several restrictions on accounts, until you hit certain post count numbers. It’s part of the anti spam attack features used by the admin team. One of those restriction may be file size on uploads. Hang around a little while, visit the social areas and get your post count up then try again. If still an issue report to the team in the support forum nta16 linked above and let them check it out for you.

Yup, the arb bushes come in 2 halves, so easy enough to replace as long as the clamp bolts aren’t seized solid. Febi do a pretty decent replacement

That may just be an actual sensor issue. I doubt it’s the DPF not regenning causing it, because I get that sometimes with mine and you get plenty warnings via maxidot (about 10 ignition cycles) and then eml and a limp mode. Not an oil light. A flashing glow plug light combined with or without an eml that has a MAF error would point to an egr issue (I have a guide thread on how that progresses)

@Gaz could chat about his daughter, so a proxy Brisky biker. I bet there’s still plenty around, bit of a general message board problem though - socmed platforms that harvest your data seem to be more popular

Hi and welcome back. Please remember that English is default required language for all posts on Briskoda, failure to do this could end up earning warnings or moderation controls on your account.

Stupid question… Why are you installing in the front, rather than the back seats?

given the age range above is from 2017 to 2022 it’s crossing mk3 - mk4 models. There isn’t any “general” Octavia zone really, so may be best here. Rather, if the op were to explore the 2 model subs they’d get the info they are looking for.

That sounds like a different issue to the one discussed. Would suggest your problem is a failed master cylinder or servo which needs to be replaced.

Hi and welcome to the forum! Advice on the shocks job - Check check and check again that the springs and dampers you purchase are definitely the exact part number and rating for your car. There are a lot of them out there that claim to be “compatible” but all that means is they physically fit on the vehicle.

I’d go with one of these from that list.. ( or just go straight to a furby.) I don’t know about the insurance but as a learner car they are ideal. Easy to drive, basic enough to really learn the art of driving as not many driving aids, not enough power to get in any real trouble, but will buzz along at motorway speeds too. Like learning how to drive race cars starting out in go-karts. Cheap to run. Cabin is roomy enough for the size of the car, just the boot isn’t very big. We bought missus Mac’s as an ex demo and kept it for 7yrs… Pass test, then upgrade to a furby.

Missus Mac is on her second DSG Arona. I’ve driven a bit, it’s not terrible, though the lag from stamping one’s foot to the box kicking down to pull away can be a tad long. But… knock it over into semi auto and prime it yourself to hold the revs where you want and it’s fine. My only gripe is my brain says if your accelerating you should be pulling the lever back to change up not pushing forward against the vehicles “g-force”. Other than that I’ve no issue with autos, May even get one next myself. Missus mac will never go back to a manual, in fact 6months after buying the first auto she was driving my car for the first time again and she pulled in after 2 miles, told me I could drive, she’d rather feel a bit car sick as a passenger than be arsed with remembering how to do gear changing. Horses for courses eh?

Because it’s a circuit with wiring nearby the 12v socket which is on a switched live. By wiring it as he did it’s put the switches fuse wiring into series on the 12v permanent live, which because it’s in series, now makes the 12v socket also a switched live. Because his car doesn’t have heated seats it meant the circuit wasn’t being used so it also made it suitable for use.

If it’s the bearing, you find the noise is worst at a certain speed and multiples/ fractions of that, and then quietens a bit in between. Eg, if the noise is loudest at 50mph, it will also be relatively loud at 25mph and 100mph (hard to test that) Or 20, 40, 80mph. Reason being the frequency of the drone resonates through the bearing into the hub and chassis. If it’s tyre related i expect it to change pitch depending on speed. Other possibility is it’s part of t a wheel arch liner or trim piece that’s loose, and the airflow above 50mph is enough force to push it out and rub on the tyre or road. Might not be noticeable looking at the car when it’s stopped. I remember it took me ages to figure what a weird rubbing noise was on my old cordoba, turned out it was the under tray was loose and hitting the road at 54mph. Stationary it tucked itself back up out of the way. Drove me nuts for about a week until enough sandpapering on the asphalt wore it away enough to hang loose enough that I copped it.

Welcome back!