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How is 82k high mileage for a VAG diesel? Mine's on 132k, my Touran was 165k and our Roomie is 110k - and all run like swiss watches

For anyone curious to see what the inside of either the Pirelli or Hankook self sealing tyres fitted to the Kodiaq looks like... Self Seal Tyre.mp4

If it does that and doesn't flatten the battery then you have a right result. keep an eye on the battery charge for a while just to be sure, dont leave the car for more than a few days without either starting it or checking the battery voltage, if its OK over say a week then you can forget all about it, by not connecting the canbus you have probably dodged a bullet.

I will get some interior shots tomorrow. I have some new brushes on the way to help me keep the wheels clean too, they do look a bit fiddly and are covered in break dust already.

It took a while to arrive due to Covid, but it’s finally here. 1.5 TSi DSG SE-L, Race blue, with Full Leather, Reversing camera and heated screen. Really pleased so far.

Brembo make high carbon discs and matching pads, will not rust as much as OEM Demon tweeks can supply. You can go on Brembo web for part numbers. Mayoboat

Came across a new-to-me vacuum leak fault this morning that looks likely to be a common one on the 6-valve 3-cylinder engines as these cars get older. It was on a 9N3 2005 Polo, but same engine code is in plenty of Mk1 Fabias. The AWY engine code that preceeded this one is probably similarly vulnerable. Owner was asked "are there any fault lights on" and I was told "Oh yes, been on quite a while" So VCDS Lite was plugged in and revealed 3 Faults Found: 16555 - Fuel Trim; Bank 1: System Too Lean P0171 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent 16490 - Manifold / Barometric Pressure Sensor (G71) / (F96): Implausible Signal P0106 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent 16725 - Camshaft Position Sensor (G40): Implausible Signal P0341 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent I must admit I was surprised not to see a 'cylinder 2 misfire' code instead of all that, 'cos I've previously replaced coilpacks 1 & 3 on this car. I also viewed and logged a few parameters to see what was happening, and the inlet manifold pressure was a god chunk higher than I would have expected at idle, somewhere around 360mbar. Anyway, set about looking for air/vac leaks and found one, not one I've seen before. The servo vac hose was bodge/temporary repaired with gaffer tape at least a couple of years back, and that repair is still in place, and not leaking. Not that. Tested the effect of putting a finger over the pressure equalising port of the PCV valve and no effect, so that was passed. Happened to knock the output hose of the PCV valve as I moved my hand away from the previous test and heard a pronounced hiss/suck sound, accompanied by the engine bogging down. Aha! The shiny black plastic hose here is the one I knocked, and subsequent fiddling showed that an upwards knock near the steel pipe end had most effect. And this is why (hose actively held upwards from its resting position): Gaffer-tape temporary repair was enough to prove the point: The car initially wasn't at all happy at low revs, bogging down badly, but a few minutes running with a few on/offs and it all settled down. No fault codes returned during a short test drive. As a bonus, and not surprising to me following a similar situation on our Fabia last week, the brake servo suddenly got much more effective! Not sure what the best long-term fix is, presumably some rubbery hose of oil-resistant material, of a size that'll fit both metal pipe and hard plastic section. Item 38 in the diagram here; 03D103606L appears to be the part number of the genuine item, but it's spectacularly overpriced if this is anything to go by: https://www.allcarpartsfast.co.uk/vw-audi-seat-skoda/vw-audi-seat-skoda-03d103606l-venthose/ That's just one of the rubbery joining bits, not the whole assembly! I suspect the gaffertape solution will remain there, knowing the owners. And it'll probably be fine.

I fitted Delphi to mine, bought at local independent motor factor, not expensive but much better than original!

Yet another update. I've just picked up the car this morning after it went in last Thursday for both recall jobs. They discovered that the sunroof drains were in fact working fine, but the problem was with a gap in the sealant between the bulkhead and some other panel relating to the wing. I was a bit dubious about this, but the upshot of it all was that they have replaced the missing section of sealant and replaced all of the carpet and underlay/soundproofing under warranty. Quite a big job as this entails taking all of the seats out and bits of trim. They seem to have done a good job so I guess only time will tell as to wether it will let water in again. Strange that it's taken 2 1/2 years to get to the point were it started to leak but the dealers must be fairly satisfied that it's been a success.

Any form of selling requires Freedom membership.

Hi all, I had a problem recently with my Fabia vrs 2004. I tried searching everywhere for my problem but didn't manage to find anything. Thought if anyone else has similar problems then this might point them in the right direction. Some of the problems I would be getting when I was driving are as follows: * What felt like a wierd juddering through the brake pedal under normal braking, as if the abs was activating. * Engine revving itself up when in neutral and coasting. Then in gear when you take your foot of the accelerator it would speed itself up. Very scary! * After about 10 minutes of driving the ABS, ASR and brake warning lights would come on and all those problems went away! Probably the car disabling these? Put it on a scan tool and it threw up this code 00597 - Wheel speed impulse deviation - intermittent So I though could have been a dodgy wheel speed sensor. First time I took it into the garage they thought the engine revving was down to turbo problems, but that couldn't explain why the revving stops after the clutch is pressed in. They suggested taking out the ABS fuse so I could at least get the fabia back home safely. That stopped both the wierd brake juddering and the engine revving! The garage now says it could be a suspected wheel bearing failure. Thank goodness not turbo problems XD Took it to a garage the second time to have the hubs stripped down as they couldn't tell which side the problem was coming from and it turned out the front left wheel bearing was on its way out. Which also took out the ABS magnetic pick up ring. Had the bearing replaced and problems all gone! Just got to have the other side replaced soon hopefully so they both get done around the same time. I'm not saying this is the fix for everyone's problems but it might help someone who is going through this with their fabia

The OEM stereo can show the status of the doors/boot/bonnet but if you have maxidot you can see all this on the dashboard anyway. You can still lock the doors fine, replacing the stereo will not affect the function of anything in the car you will just lose some INFORMATION DISPLAY that the standard stereo can show but your aftermarket one cannot.

If it is a 2016 diesel, it will be euro6 emissions spec. Unlike the older diesels these come with lot of extra emissions gubbins, and probably a diesel particulate filter. You have to be a bit careful if you are mainly a local town driver. The emissions equipment can get clogged if you only do short journeys as the engine won’t regenerate (run a cleaning cycle) until it is warmed through (which realistically means journeys of over 30 minutes, more in winter) The other thing to remember is that a cold Diesel engine on short journeys will probably use more fuel than the tsi petrol. The official mpg tests are done at +25c so not realistic in UK for majority of year. My advice would be if the diesel DSG seems good value at first sight, then you need to consider why it is priced like that compared to the petrol DSG. It is simply that it will not be suitable as a town runaround

Loving that shade on the Xtreme's against your metallic grey bodywork. Makes me want to put my RS6 replica's on next week.

Thanks. As it happens it’s not the level sensor that’s the culprit. It appears to be dataset related but my VAS has packed in so I’m waiting on a new one before I can try and get to the root cause of the issue. So please enjoy a nice side shot Saturday instead.

A couple from Snetterton, taken today.

Nor doors, boot, bonnet open, trajectory lines for reversing camera, functions like volume changing with vehicle speed, pretty much anything that requires information from the vehicle.

That sounds perfect, thanks. Its a 25mm H&R anti roll bar I'm looking at. Got plans to remap soon too and maybe change some hardware, but just want to use a bit more warranty up before I do it.

Nothing new in 10% + 2mph, but you can no longer take that for granted as it is not UK wide. Police Scotland did a pilot scheme where it was not 10% +2 mph and then got the permission with a law change to vary that. http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/362725-police-scotland-getting-new-powers-on-speeders-who-are-just-over-the-limit http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/454420-speed-limit-1-mph http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/452824-speeding

I'd check all the engine/gearbox mounts - these may have been disturbed / damaged during the clutch replacement. After some work on my previous Octavia I had a mount fail between the top of the gearbox and the chassis. It looked ok - but it wasn't

So, went and had a look this afternoon, took a good test drive (bit longer than planned as I got slightly lost!) and the upshot is a deposit was paid and we hope to get it by the end of next week! Now just got to work out how to park 3 cars in 2 spaces...🤔 Thanks again everyone, looking forward to being part of the Yeti community!

Nothing new in 10%+ 2mph... It's been that for donkeys years

I was being silly, found it now, but can't select breaking cars so I assume freedom membership is required?

https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/407627-rear-disc-brake-wear/?do=findComment&comment=5417756

I'm amazed by what you have done to this car. Quite incredible.

Such a nice looking car. Modded just right.

Hi B, have bin trying to think back to when i fitted mine. I "THINK 🤔" what you have is what is used for the fitting of the HIDs, but the original is the same, but with no gap to let the wires of the HIDs go through. If that makes sense. HIDs have the wires fitted to the bulbs. Originals, put bulb in, then plug, in back of bulb.

You won't see the climate control or parking sensor display on the screen like the OEM stereo shows

No not a problem, there will be a fault code stored in the CAN gateway as it won't be able to communicate with the stereo, but it won't bring up any dashboard warnings or affect anything else

It's had a new clutch and flywheel less than 15k ago, genuine VAG parts. It's not terrible, just noticeable. There's no chatter or other symptoms, I don't think pressing the clutch down makes any difference.

With the 110 the caravan would weigh more than the car and would not be advisable, especially for a novice tower. I have been towing for 30 plus years and even with the 150 I would not be happy, and again would not recommended it to a novice. I think you need to be looking for a heavier car than the Yeti.

as i was only out by a 30bhp difference, which is 1/14 of the actual engine output i get 92.14% of the points i also said Holden Commodore... then went to Maloo so as i was right then added an extra guess im claiming 80% of those points.

Go here: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/files/file/76-mk1-fabia-workshop-manuals/ Click download and you'll find a nice list of pdfs, including one about 002 gearbox. Download that and get reading. 🙂

Thank you for the updates! I'm puzzled with how the 'G' part number had both the single and double chamber versions! I was expecting the double walled model to be a little more advanced than what it turns out to be in those photos..! I still have my old tank. I'd say it's probably only good for dumping as I don't want to burden anyone else with the same problem in the future. What a waste of good materials on poorly designed parts..

My next mod then should take me over 400bhp with a 15% gain. That's good value.

Aaaarrrrgggghhhh

There are two “P” buttons: This one activates parking aids such as the camera or OPS sensors. This one activates park assist where the car “parks itself”.

There are owners on here at 250k and still driving their Yeti and planning to keep it. 80k is not that bad and it must have had the ideal diesel usage pattern for future longevity. It is also a Euro 6 car do no issues with the fix applied to earlier cars.

You are much better off buying a used diesel with a good few miles on the clock rather than one with fewer and all potential problems with emissions systems of low mileage, 82,000 from 2016 is about 20,000 miles per annum and that’s ideal for a diesel. Frankly if you plan to do much less than 20,000 per year - particularly if it will be used for short distance driving - you should avoid a diesel and get a petrol version, otherwise you risk having expensive particulate filter and other emission control problems.

Oh I quite agree Phil, Thatcham now require it to give a car a decent security rating, but I was just wondering if a longer battery life would be an added bonus Chris

First thing that springs to mind here is the "professional" fitting. I'd be asking why they couldn't carry out the job professionally. 😉

UPDATE: Finally got an answer from Conti regarding the installation of this belt. All they did was send me a link to a video (in German) addressing precisely this topic, so they must be aware that many people are confused. Don't know why they don't write in in 27 languages on the package. In the video, the guy says he "pulls the belt immediately out of the packaging and turns it around a few times, and then doesn't know which way it came, which is EXACTLY what I did! They know! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8uaRbcWb6Yo I had to copy-paste the German closed captions into Google translate, but was able to determine the answer: The "webbed" side of the belt (the woven cloth side) rides towards the alternator pully. (That's how I ended up installing it anyway, so saves me the trouble of turning it around). Hope this is useful to future seekers. Cheers.

Angle de ripage.

If you are comparing other cars. My previous 1.9pd 2003 Skoda Superb mk I which I owned for 10 years is still going strong now under new ownership (original battery, clutch, exhaust ) and its replacement a 1.4tsi 2014 Superb mk II, as yet faultless at 86k miles. Other than servicing the only thing replaced has been the front brakes. Likewise my sons 2016 1.2tsi Octavia has been faultless this far. I've been following the 1.5tsi issues with interest as I originally wanted this engine in a car as my 1.4tsi has been fab - I'm not so sure at the moment. I've noticed the recent Audi A4 went straight from the 1.4tsi to a lower powered version of the 2.0 engine and not the 1.5. Until I'm happy the 1.5tsi is fully sorted I'll stick with the 1.4tsi Superb - surprisingly nippy and despite the small engine it's a fab long distance cruiser. It's had numerous cross Europe trips - er possibly not this year though!!

I was finally able to collect it ,I ordered in March and Covid-19 delayed my pick up by about a month which was pretty frustrating. I went for the 2.0 TSI 272 and a few options. I have to say I absolutely love this car, it is such a pleasure to drive. I haven't owned a car for about 10 years as I was living in London. The last car I owned was a 1.0L Seat Arosa 😂 Excuse my pad parking!

Mine is same. Less jerking and kangarooing but not by much, cold and hot. It's a bit crap really, never had a car that needed the concentration of a brain surgeon to drive smoothly in traffic. It feels like the flywheel is the wrong size and weight for the engine. After 6 Skoda's, all of which have been problematic in one way or another, it'll be time to say goodbye at the end of this company car lease. The 13 year old Toyota on my driveway that has had 2 faults from new is leading me towards a Corolla estate/Tourer (whatever it is called). I don't like it as much as the Octavia but at least it should work properly.

Who knows!? You haven't told us what the error code is or posted an autoscan. It could be a corrosion on the contacts but you shouldn't be using WD40 on them...

Since I can't edit my post (probably because I'm new): I added some sizes (there are now 20, 30, 40 and 50mm height increase) and some pictures of the thingy in use. Please excuse the bad quality, my mobile phone isn't the best.

Ref wireless carplay, Aliexpress have a sale on, again!, and there is a wireless carplay dongle for under £90 which looks to be the same design but not the same name as the one @sashagrace recommended and I have coming slow mail from China. Might be worth a look? https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000477009772.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.d7d35444nAZBpv&algo_pvid=9d34a3d3-8142-4f0f-b176-4fb57fffab90&algo_expid=9d34a3d3-8142-4f0f-b176-4fb57fffab90-5&btsid=0ab6fb8315925534669571932eadb0&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_