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2017 1.4 TSI Clutch gone softish and sometimes sticking

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45,000 miles, I have only done 1000miles having bought the car a few months ago. I've been unsure if the clutch is (or isn't) in great order as it's biting point feels on the high side but recently the pedal feels a bit less springy (so I'd say feels a bit softer) and it occasionally doesn't spring back as it should.

 

The issue feels hydraulic system like but maybe it's borne out of a worn clutch? 

 

I see from searching this isn't entirely unusual but I'm still a bit unsure on approaching a definite fix. I understand the slave cylinder is inside the 'box and have also read that the release bearing might be the issue.

 

Anyone advise me on the probability of what's up? I think I'll speak to a garage this week but for (his) testing purposes he may think the clutch seems fairly ok so I think I may need to guide him on what I'd like done. 

 

I gather my dual mass should be alright at this mileage even if the clutch needs replaced.

 

TIA

 

 

 

 

  • Author

I learned today that on my model the slave cylinder isn't inside the 'box.

 

Master cylinder was the one the mechanic suspected but I remain a bit unsure of what's going on. 

 

Anyone shed any light on what's likely causing the loss of pedal pressure?

Following this as I have similar behaviour. The clutch has recently become intermittently 'soft', ie the pedal doesnt spring back to the top and stays at about half travel. I have also had the 'clicking' noise and feel from the clutch pedal on cold mornings. Sounds like the same age/model, now 52k miles and bought at c. 30k, dealer replaced the clutch to try and fix the 'clicking' at purchase.

  • Author

The mechanic I spoke to yesterday at length (an older guy mechanic for all makes most of his working life) said he suspected master cylinder regarding the softness and pedal not springing back. He said if the slave cylinder was at fault you’d completely lose the pedal. 
 

He and his business partner drove my car. Both felt the clutch wasn’t great but also wasn’t too bad.

 

It doesn’t look all that easy to get a master cylinder for RHD cars except from Skoda where it’s £190 I think. I did however come across one on Autodoc a TRW PMK686. 
 

If I were to replace my clutch and the slave/master it gets expensive, hence hoping I can narrow down what’s wrong.

He is wrong, the master cylinder is very simple, no more complicated than a bicycle pump, it does not have a return spring, the pedal has a control loading spring operating through a cam which assists the pedal on the downstroke  from the midpoint and upwards from just beyond it, the return hydraulic force from the clutch diaphragm is what initially raises the pedal when releasing the clutch at the midpoint the control loading spring/cam takes over.

 

You have air in your system which causes the exact problem you describe, it usually afflicts vehicles with the internal concentric slave cylinder so I would inspect and see which type you have (is it a 6 speed gearbox?) before accepting what you have been told.

 

On the concentric cylinder air is drawn into the system via an O ring connecting the 2 plastic mouldings together, it draws in air but does not leak fluid, if you have an external slave cylinder its good news as cheap to replace, no point the mechanic looking for fluid leaks, the O rings seal under pressure but retract and draw in air through the action of the control loading spring and the bore restriction from the peak torque limiter AKA clutch bleed block, the O rings on that may be the culprit or even the seal where the clutch line enters the master cylinder, these must be correctly "popped" onto the union before refitting or they will leak, in that instance leaking fluid.

Edited by J.R.

  • Author

Thanks for the info J.R.

 

I assume the concentric cylinder is the one inside the housing? I got the attached from Skoda parts yesterday with the parts man confirming the slave is external.

 

So, is it still quite likely my slave cylinder might be allowing a bit air in? 
 

the mechanic seemed to think the whole master cylinder might’ve been plastic and was causing a bit trouble but maybe indeed he’s wrong. It looks like the body of them is metal.

 

 

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