FlintstoneR1

longedge - what's the age and warranty status of your car? Ryeman - the sound emitted by the warning "gong" thingy would, I guess, be indeed more of a "ping" to alert you to the message. rather than a clicking relay sort of noise. Much like the "ping" you get if you have a maxidot speed limit reached setting engaged, and you then pass through the chosen speed. (SWMBO has that set at 30mph, because the UK speedo graduations marks are not clear to her eyes. As she uses the Yeti more than I do, I just tolerate the constant ping noises, in return for a quiet life in other areas!

There you go! Thanks Wiilydog. I'll add that to my personal Yeti knowledge base. Hopefully I'll not need to replace the carriers on my car, as I can remove the discs OK with pad carriers still in place. Although if the discs I put on new in March last as long as the originals (140,000 miles and nearly 6 years), I'll not need to swap them again? I suspect the corrosion the rear discs seem to be a little susceptible to, toward the outer radius of the swept surface, has as much to do with rear disks getting very little of the braking effort overall, compared to any other cause. So the rear pads never get full force applied, compared to the fronts, and so become prone to sticking on the carriers over time? Unless anyone has a better theory?

Our 2010 MY Yeti developed the same thing, despite plenty of use and mileage (over 150,000 now). Heavy corrosion towards the outer radius of the rear discs, on the outer face. Despite plenty of friction material left on the (outer) pads and ostensibly still sweeping the corroded area of the disc. (In theory you might think the corroded area would give more friction, but.......) On disassembly of the caliper (easy peasy - just the two slider bolts and it lifts away) I discovered the inner, piston side pads were down to the thinnest sliver of friction material I've ever encountered, short of metal to metal contact! But still had not become noisy! Clearly then a pad sticking in the carriers phenomenon, as opposed to the sliders, but could be elements of both I guess. A new set of Pagid disks and pads mandated and were to hand already! Interestingly, Euro Car Parts also do new slider kits for Yeti of this era and rear disk design, which my local depot suggested was "quite a common sale item we find". So may also be a wise precaution when ordering the discs and pads. I found the sliders on mine were fine and dandy. So just cleaned them up and replaced. Returning the new sliders to ECP unused. Hence I'd recommend as you suggest and drop the calipers out to check the pads are sliding properly on the carriers. I plan to do this annually from now on, having fitted the new disks. A little drop of copper grease on the contact surface of the pad "ears", where they sit onto the carrier brackets, will hopefully do the trick? A word of warning though - my Yeti - 2010 2.0 TDi CR 110PS 2WD utilises the smaller diameter solid rear disks, 254mm from memory. I was able to angle these enough to remove and replace the new discs without removing the pad carrier brackets. Which I just cleaned up carefully and left in situ on the hubs. If your Yeti uses the larger diameter (272mm??) discs, and I believe most 4x4s do, then the pad carrier brackets may have to come off to get the discs off? If so beware the pair of bolts that hold the carrier to the hub are a well known "sod" to remove. They are loctited into the hub threads AND require a relatively unusual short length, 12-spline male, M14 socket to fit the female splined bolt heads. There is little room to access the bold heads past the drive shafts and suspension arms. A long extension and a universal joint may be necessary, as well as a good breaker bar. There's a very good description by the Plumber in the Yeti Technical section! Hope it all works as well for you as it did for me.

Agreed on every point! :clap: Is exactly the same on my 2010 CR 2.0 / TDi / 110 / EA189 Yeti. The 2 different types of filter foxed me a little the first time. Had to re-order a filter ostensibly for a 1.6 diesel engine instead of the "2-litre". (Traced by cross-referencing the old filter's type code to different engines). I suspect which engines got which design of filter housing was down to whatever was available on the line on the day? My car's engine like yours has the long, plastic centre spigot built into the cap, not a fresh spigot every time built into the filter cartridge. Seems to make the new filters a touch cheaper this way round too! The filters themselves seem identical. Mann, Bosch and Crosland filters come with a pair of new O-rings for the spigot. One about 15mm dia. The other even smaller, for the lowermost part of the spigot. In addition to the much greater dia. cap seal O-ring. From memory, the Bosch filters also include a new sump plug washer, which the others don't. (Useful if you are draining the oil conventionally. Or if using something like a "Pela" vacuum oil extractor, then you won't be bothered, as you won't be disturbing the sump plug anyway). More recently, Euro Car Parts now seem to be able to send me the correct filter each time, when ordered via the car's registration number through the ECP web site. After 7 filter changes* now on "our" Yeti, I believe I've mastered the knack of angling the old filter out of the housing without having to mess with the surrounding pipework and wiring loom. But that does require laying out plenty of newspaper / kitchen towel / rags (whichever is to hand), beforehand to catch the inevitable dribbles. Even after leaving time for filter to drain before trying to remove it. Still, compared to the Ren-Oh Grand Scenic diesel that our Yeti replaced, removing the oil filter is a doddle. I just wish it was as easy as my BMW. * Why so many changes? I'm old fashioned enough to choose to do oil and filter replacement every 9000 miles, even when using a VW507 spec oil like Castrol Edge 5w30. I want my engine (and turbo!) to last. Intermediate oil changes are the cheapest way I know to help that ambition along. Echo your comments on the fuel filter swap. I have been known to take off the outlet pipe from the cap to help purge any air trapped during re-assembly. But have experienced no problems even without that step. Aside - don't you just love the smell of new filters, when fresh out of the box? Or am I just weird? Or hooked on something that is going to harm me one day?

If in doubt you can always go to Opie Oils web site http://www.opieoils.co.uk/vehicle-lookup.aspx? and look up you car's specific requirement. Faster, easier and more likely to lead you to the right choice IMO, than ploughing through the owner's manual for an answer that is not in there. Manuals today seem to cater for a different kind of owner than they did 25 years ago?

At the turn of the millennium: 1) Rover 216 GSi - the wedge shape 200 series with the 1.6 Honda engine. I.E. a Honda Concerto in disguise. That one ran to 186,000 miles before I sold it to my nephew. 2) Mid way through 89,000 miles with a Ren-Oh Laguna 2.2D company car. By the time it went back at four and bit years old that was to be polite - knackered! Was living in Corsham, Wiltshire at the time. Between Chippenham and Bath. Interesting place. Recently seen on TV as the setting for a number of exterior town shots in the "Poldark" TV series. Think it's meant to be Truro? But some of the most interesting bits of the real Corsham were/are underground! Quarries for Bath Stone, WW2 ammunitions stores and aircraft shadow factories, Fighter Command control centre, Burlington govt. bunker, Fleet Air Arm equipment storage, the mysterious "Corsham Computer Centre", plus much, much more. Most of which remains classified.

The clock fitted, but it wasn't a max size one! Had to move the passenger seat fully forward and wind the backrest forward so it was level with the dashboard. Top of clock rested on dash (with suitable protection/padding). foot against the rear sill. Shows how versatile the Yeti can be! On the other max bulky load occasion recently, with all the rear seats and spare out then Yeti held all the old kitchen units in one load to the tip. Everything kind of deconstructed back to flat pack principles, if I'm making sense. Packed up to the roof in Yeti. Chap at the tip came over to take a look half way through unloading. Said he couldn't believe how much stuff we were taking out of the back of a Yeti and thought he'd discovered a real life Tardis. Said he'd been thinking about a Yeti to replace his current Mondeo Estate and was now convinced when he saw how much more we could pack in Yeti compared to his Mondeo. Explained how easy it was to remove the rear seats. He hadn't realised that was possible. He was even more gobsmacked when SWMBO and I came back half an hour later with a dysfunctional chest freezer in the back. He came and helped us unload that!

Agreed on all counts. Engine air filter costs £9 to change DIY. Six or 8 cross head screws, can't remember now. Easy to reach in engine bay. Cabin filter £10. Slightly tricker to reach in passenger footwell but still easy enough compared to a BMW E36 or Renault Scenic. Both filters from Opie Oils online. Also try Euro Car Parts for free delivery. What's not to like?

Actually it could have been Scewfix I got the Ezibleed from! Both are next door to each other in my local business park. More than once I've wandered through the door of one, then wondered why I'm not in t'other! I claim old age and senility myself!! Not quite as daft as when Father Ted found himself and the other priests in the ladies lingerie section of the dept. store! But you'll know what I mean I hope?

Actually Paul, as the spare kit brings the new boot floor level up to match the rear door opening sill, then I find it actually helps with loading / unloading stuff from the boot. The height of the "new" boot floor with spare in place, level with the sill is ideal for transporting the dog + her cage. As it means you can tuck the cage in snugly, then the cage door opens over the sill to let said canine in or out easily. Heavy objects don't need to be hoiked (technical Lancastrian jargon!) up to sill level before lifting them out. You can just slide them in/out (with suitable bumper protection in place!). Worked well when I needed to shift a handful of full size paving stones recently. On those (rare?) occasions when you really do need ALL the available boot space (like in my case when moving a grandfather clock to the auction rooms, or taking the remains of the old kitchen and its units to the tip), then it's a doddle of job to just whip out the spare and its adjacent storage boxes. Giving you the full boot depth & height again. No more difficult than removing the rear seats - and that's also a doddle. Just means running around with no spare for a couple of days till I get round to putting it back. No worries then.

Just be aware the Skoda spare kit includes a wheel & tyre combo that makes it the right diameter & rolling circumference for either 16" original wheels or 17" with the lower sidewall tyres. Fitted to a 16" steel wheel. But in order to keep the height occupied lower when laid flat in the boot space, the spare wheel & tyre are narrower than the regular tyres. By about 2cm from recall. NOT a true super-skinny "space saver". Just a narrow than standard wheel and tyre. This means that although a "proper" tyre, you can't really use it on the car for prolonged periods due to the width difference. And it comes with a sticker saying a 50mph speed restriction applies. Fine to use till you get your original repaired or replaced I guess. I discovered this when I needed 2 new tyres. Having adopted Yorkshire principles of thrift since living here, I was going to buy 1 new tyre online, then swap the spare onto one of the regular wheels. Leaving the better of the two worn tyres to become the spare - or so my theory went. UNTIL I came to check and found the width difference! Best laid plans of mice and men came to nought. I was thwarted and had to buy two new tyres anyway. Drat!

This is what I used a few months back when mine needed replacing: Using Gunsons Ezibleed air pressure system to keep the master cylinder topped up and push the fluid through. Castrol DOT4 fluid. 1) Right Rear 2) Left Rear 3) Right Front 4) Left Front Not saying that's the best or recommended sequence for Yeti. Just what works for me. Recall says I adopted it from the recommended BMW sequence. I usually try to time a full fluid replace with a pad change if possible. That way, when pushing the pistons back to accommodate the new pads (with a push back tool and an open bleed valve with one way drain gadget fitted) you've already removed the bulk of the old fluid from the wheel cylinders, so there's really just the fluid in the lines left to flush through. Gunsons Ezibleed kit(s) I've used for years. Only replaced my old kit last year because the plastic of the fluid bottle and lines had gone opaque with age, so you couldn't see the fluid any more. New kit was £20 - from Yes Electrical of all places. (Or was it Screwfix? See below!)

What's with all the non standard letter and number spacings then? Does no one police BSAU145d any more? Or does ANPR not care?

Broken lower coil on rear springs on BMW E36 and E46 3-series and E39 5-series still a common issue. Snaps just above the lowest flattened coil, so the spring still sits securely in the pan and ride height barely affected. The driver rarely notices until an MOT or proper inspection picks it up. A doddle to swap in the new spring though. 10-15 mins per side.

Might try that? The shape of the bottle should give a clue who makes it really....... Been buying Castrol Edge FST 5w30, as VAG engines are developed hand in in hand with Castrol technicians. Hence why VAG mention Castrol on the filler cap. Same for BMW. (Same filler caps come to that?) With 4L of Edge FST costing £32 to £34 delivered to your door from Euro Car Parts (difference depending on the offers on the day) then why bother hauling all the way to Halfrauds to get own brand yourself for similar money? Perhaps for 5L but at 14 miles each way to the nearest Halfords then the fuel cost offsets a big chunk of the extra litre. Then worrying about if it really is good enough to be the most crucial component in the vehicle? After the brake fluid. If ECP offers don't suit, there's always Opie Oils online shop. Prices not far off when delivery added in.