Trevor M

I had a misfire when cold, although in my case it felt more like a petrol engine firing on only three cylinders rather than a complete shut off of the fuel. Used Vcds to look at injector variations when cold and one seemed significantly different to the others. I had these removed and checked by a diesel specialist who said that although the spay patterns looked ok, one had an excessive leak off. This injector was replaced and the problem was solved. This only happened on initial cold start up and lasted for probably no further than half a mile, sometimes less. The car had done around 80,000 miles at the time, so as I thought injectors should last considerably longer than this I declined the offer to replace all injectors. In your case you say the problem began straight after changing the Air Flow Meter; as you have indicated this is likely to be a good indication of where the problem lies. Hope youget it sorted.

If you have VCDS you can try running the pump with 'Output Tests' to see if it runs. If it fails, I understand a sharp tap sometines allows the brushes to re-make contact with the comutator; this is a common problem, which some say can be caused by a restricted filter making the pump work too hard. I had this problem a few years ago and replaced the pump, but there may be kits to enable a repair to be undertaken at lower expense. I used haldexrepairs.co.uk for my replacement pump and found them very helpful (I have no association with them other than having bought from them in the past.) Good luck with it, trevorm

Thanks to everyone who has replied. I now know what I need to do: if I go for new I will do as Greentree suggests and spec. it with at least TBP, and probably also a factory fitted tow bar; if I go for nearly new I will double check it has the correct VIN figures. Thanks also to Williami33 for confirming the fridge and battery charging functions work correctly. SurryJohn, I will have a look at the brochure links you have provided, thanks.

Thanks for responding Greentree. I am aware of the changes with Tow Bar Prep, but for certain models (eg Scala and Kamiq,) I understand that not only do Skoda say you should not tow without Prep, they actually mark the VIN plate with ZERO train weight so it is apparently illegal to fit a tow bar (this is stated in the small print in the technical data section of the online brochure;) indeed I have seen reports where fitters have refused to fit towbars to these vehicles for this reason. Hence my request above for owners to check the details on their VIN plates for me to make sure as far as possible what the situation is for the Karoq. I would still like to hear VIN details from owners of the current TSI 150 SEL version of the Karok if possible please. Would also be interested to hear if anyone tows a caravan with a factory fitted bar and if so, whether the fridge and battery charging function correctly please (and thanks in advance.)

I am considering a new 150 TSI SEL Karoq with which I will be wanting to tow. Having seen some of the confusion surrounding the requirement for Tow Bar Preparation (TBP,) and not wishing to go through this again in detail, I wondered if some kind owners of the current version of the above model could please check their VIN plates and let me know the Max Train Weight (I think that is the right name for it) shown, and whether that is with or without TBP. Many thanks in advance.

Hi wexti. All is still going well with mine, but bear in mind the problem was resolved less than a month ago. My decision to replace only the failed injector was partly due to the cost, but also the vast majority of injectors can go on far longer than my current 80,000 miles. The reason for having the system checked for contamination at the same time was for reassurance that this had not been the cause of the problem (and hence could have also had an effect on the other injectors.)

In that case mine may have done the same; as my car is parked within wifi range of the hub I may not have noticed the connection request to complete, or as it was in range this could have happened automatically.

JR, I may be wrong (it has been known before,) or your VCDS may be a different version to mine (HEX-V2 USB interface,) but I am pretty sure my dongle has updated via the USB port without being connected to the car. I guess if your dongle works via a wireless interface rather than USB it would need power from somewhere to update, hence the need to plug it into the car.

In case it may be of use to others I thought I would document my experience relating to my 2013 TDI 170 misfire. To my dismay, after having owned the Yeti from new in 2013, it recently developed a misfire when accelerating mildly for around the first half mile from a cold start, although cold idle seemed ok. Once it was warm it appeared to be fine. The misfire seemed to me to have been similar to that experienced on a petrol vehicle with a defective ignition relating to one cylinder. Searching around the web it looked as if there were many possible causes for this, so out came the trusty VCDS. No error codes were set ( I should explain I am neither a diesel nor a vcds expert,) so again I needed to educate myself a bit in these areas. Using 'Advanced Measuring Values' on VCDS and logging the results showed that the fuel rail pressure was following the specified value fairly precisely, and the boost pressure ( I think that is the right term) looked to me as if it was ok. However, the Injection Quantity Deviation mainly for cylinder 2 was rising to 3mg/Litre (appearing to be compensated by the others) when driving from a cold start, but settled within specification (difficult to dicscover precisely for the CFJA engine, but for some seems to be around +/- 2.8mg/stroke) when warm / hot; this suggested a problem with cylinder 2's injector or something in that area. I have to say I found the VC-Graph application that ships with VCDS less than user friendly, and actually used a spreadsheet (OpenOffice) to 'chart' the results logged in the VCDS .csv files; the charts produced were I think a good indication of what was happening with the Injector Quantity Deviations, although as the ECU seemed to be adjusting these to compensate for one another I was not entirely confident that my suspicions about Cylinder 2 were correct. I had already checked the glowplug resistances as these had been suggested by a friendly mechanic, although I thought these would have potentiially caused difficulty starting and rough idle rather than the symptoms described above. To cut a long(ish) story short, I booked the car in with a diesel specialist in Norwich (Allstart Diesels, with whom I should say I have no connection) who removed an tested the injectors and confirmed that indeed injector 2 was faulty as shown by a leak back test, although all injector spray patterns were good on the bench. New injector fitted (I declined the rather expensive option of replacing all four) and all now ok! Having learnt a bit from this experience and following a few searches on the web, I think for any similar issues I would purchase a leak back test kit to confirm the VCDS findings. Maybe should add that Allstart also checked the fuel pump for contamination in case that had led to the injector failure, but all was ok. Enough of my ramblings, but if this is of any use to others it will have been worthwhile.

Thanks J.R. - I had been considering doing this; as it is almost due for its next major service of timing belt /water pump / haldexservice / oil change etc., I will ensure the throttle valve is checked at the same time. Last time I checked it had no fault codes shown by VCDS, so is doing well for its age (2013 Elegance model,) although has previously had one for air flaps which needed the 'reset operation.'

Reading this topic makes me wonder if I am the only person who has no problems at all with the emissions fix (on a 170,) finding it has perfectly adequate power for towing a 1300Kg MTPLM caravan, and returning an indicated 50mpg (around a true 47mpg) fuel consumption during normal use. I have always fed it with Vpower / Ultimate and have had no (perhaps I am tempting fate here) problems with excessive regens or throttle valve 'clagging.' Admittedly it has done a relatively low mileage - below 80,000 miles - so it may be early to tell if related issues will arise further down the line. I am sure I will 'shot down' by some on here who have different views, but we are all entitled to our own; for my part I have not seen the justification for the expense of removing the fix or re-mapping. Each to their own, and enjoy your Yetis - they are great cars.

This was from an Autoscan on my 170 MY2013. Not sure if the same since the 170 has the larger front discs. Address 03: ABS Brakes (J104) Labels:. 1K0-907-379-60EC1F.clb Part No SW: 1K0 907 379 BL HW: 1K0 907 379 BL Component: ESP MK60EC1 H31 0152 Revision: 00H31001 Coding: 963F600E09270103691206E5901D808A310000 Shop #: WSC 33361 790 00064 VCID: 7DA7FA152DF8979FA21-8028 No fault code found.

I believe I read somewhere that if Travel Mode is active the lights do not 'dance.' It may be worth checking this has not been inadvertently set via the muliifunction display, or has somehow activated itself by a 'glitch' of some sort.

You need to get someone to check for error codes. The glow plug light does not necessarily mean any glow plugs are faulty. Also, glow plug failures do not normally cause a 'limp mode' situation.

No, I have not had any heater blower problems (so far.) I think you said on the other thread you had checked the fuses. I am not sure if a fan failure would cause any fault codes to be logged, but it could be worth getting these read. Whoops! just seen you did see an error on your other thread.

There is no coding needed on this model. I have the same version (also the same year) and changed my battery earlier this year. It must be something in the air in this part of the country as I am close to you near Bungay!

Hear hear to the OP.

Having read throught this thread, I suspect that I, like many others was not aware of the wheel bolt sequence quoted in the user manual. I have changed the wheels over a few times without considering this and will not lose any sleep over it. I suspect the reason may be that if the other bolts are tightened first and loosened last there is less chance of damaging the locking key to bolt pins / sockets, as the locking bolt should spin in and out relatively freely with the wheel held in position by the others. I would not think it has anything to do with wheel security - just my thoughts.

You are correct; as you appear to have changed all clutch components it should be working 100%. I suggest you insist the garage corrects the problem. Having said that my '170' clutch has from new always engaged 'low down' on the pedal, but not to the extent that yours seems to do. Clutch wear usually means the clutch pedal will gradually function 'higher up' (I think,) but I would expect a new clutch to disengage properly from day 1. Good luck.

Just to confirm Wino's response, my Grandson's Audi A3 1.6 TDI has only one pipe connected to the Differential Pressure Sensor, with the other connector open to the atmosphere.

It may not be related, but my grandson had a Differential Pressure Sensor overheat and partially melt on an Audi 1.6 TDI. It was replaced and no further problems have occured. If you do need to replace the sensor it should be noted that an 'adaption' needs to be performed (with VCDS or similar) before starting the engine.

Better still, also have a friendly Briskodian (is that the correct term,) read the error codes, as searching will give you several possibilities, many of which will not be the cause, and the error codes should at least point you in the right direction.

I think the obvious thing to do is to get the error codes checked by some friendly VCDS (or similar) owner. Potentially the most serious item you mention its the fans running: if regens can not be completed due to a blocked DPF, I understand this can be an expensive repair. I would suggest making sure this is not a problem before your warranty expires. Alternatively you could just take it back to the supplying dealer and ask them to rectify the problems under warranty; this might save a lot of 'hassle' in the long run.

Hi Brijo. I hope the following may be useful to you: Firstly, just to be clear: I have no connection to Tayna batteries, but have had good next day delivery service from them on the two occasions I have used them. There are other similar online suppliers. They are offering the two batteries you mentioned as follows: Bosch S4 005 at £54.50 + £7.97 delivery Bosch S4 E08 at £105 99 + £8.37 delivery These prices do not include fitting, but on my TDI 170 this was a straightforward 20 minute job, without any reprogramming needed as I do not have 'Stop / Start' - I imagine yours will be the same (although I could be wrong) as it is also a 2013 model. If you are unable to fit it yourself, perhaps a friendly neighbour or local garage could do so for a small fee, I would think it would still work out a good bit less expensive than your quoted figures. I seem to remember (you may need to check,) that some Varta batteries are identical to Bosch, with a different 'badge,' but at even lower prices. Goosd luck.

If it is the slave cylinder leaking I would imagine the fluid level is likely to be falling. The master cylinder can leak fluid past the seals and back into the reservoir, and under these conditions the fluid level will remain constant. This could give a clue as to where the problem lies. Good luck in resolving it.