Trevor M

Probably best to check for error codes before doing anything else. Poke and hope is best avoided.

If the local garage serviced the Haldex and / or diff. and then the same garage confirmed there was little/ insufficient oil in the diff., it is clear where the blame lies I would have thought. You may have made a mistake in not returning to the garage immediately you noticed the noise in any case. It is probable you could have avoided too much damage; continuing to use it is also likely to mean there is a cost to you because of the resulting damage. Sorry if this sounds a bit harsh (it is not meant to,) you have my sympathies. PS: If the local garage only changed the coupling (and did not work on the Haldex / diff.) immediately before the noise started, it may be the new coupling and / or fitting of same is at fault and the low diff. oil is a coincidence.

I have to say, I think the video above was the most informative home made one of its type I have seen. I started watching out of curiosity, for a quick browse, rather than having any current need for the information, but found I became 'hooked' by the excellent presentation and finished up watching most of it. Informative, amusing and entertaining - what more could one want ? Thanks Vimal-Jith for posting this and also thanks to the guy who produced the video from wheelsandmotors.com.

I have only used them for the supply of a new mk4 pump plus oil and filter. Have to say their service was excellent; I have heard others say the same thing.

Not quite the same vehicle, and not sure if it applies here, but some VW group vehicles have a bag of silicon (I think) within the coolant header tank to prevent corrosion. These have been known to fail with the silicon 'grit' escaping and blocking the heater matrix. My Grandson has an Audi A3 TDI (2013,) which suffered this problem. Others have replaced the heater matrix to overcome the problem, but in his case it was fixed by removing the hoses and reverse flushing the heater matrix directly from a mains water pressure hose (I understand it needed repeat flushing in both directions to completely clear it,) then replacing the header tank. On the Audi, replacing the matrix would have been an awkward time consuming job - the same probably applies to the Yeti. Hope you succeed with it.

My 2013 170 Yeti is still on its original Varta battery, although for the last four years the voltage when tested before starting in the morning has been around 12.1 Volts. I also had the battery tested by a Skoda main agent when it was in for a service four years ago, expecting them to say a new one was needed; however, like yours, they said it was ok. on a load test. I assume it is one cell which is not up to scratch, and have been expecting it to fail each winter since, but it has not failed to start the car once, even on frosty mornings (it is parked outside.) I suppose having said that, I should now expect it to fail shortly ! On the tickover, mine runs at 850 rpm when warmed up, but during the winter this will take longer, and 1,000 rpm is seen more often (also when 'doing a regen'.)

J.R: Thanks for correcting me so diplomatically if that is the case. I may then have long been under the misapprehension that it was possible for air in the system to cause brakes to bind. Since the OP suggested this was the only part of the brake system which was serviced, I thought it could have been a possibility. It will be interesting to eventually find what the cause was (if it has not corrected itself, as later posts suggest it may have done.)

Just a thought: if the MOT was performed before the service it would not have 'picked up' any failings caused by the service. Also, if there was no overheating at that wheel previously, it is most likely caused by something the garage has done. One possibility is that air was introduced when the brake fluid was changed; this could definitely cause a brake to bind, but would probably also show as a 'spongy' feel at the brake pedal.

I know it has been a long time since this thread was used, but I recently had to change my right hand mirror indicator repeater unit. Having read through the thread it was still unclear how the wiring connector should be removed. If it helps anyone else, I found that inserting the 'tail' of an unused small pop rivet fully into the rectangular hole shown in DensYeti's picture above, the connector virtually fell apart. Hope this may help someone having a similar problem.

It is noticable on mine if the tailgate is left open for a while (e.g. to keep the car cool on a hot day,) that more effort is subsequently needed to close it.

I may be wrong, but I think the coolant type is usually indicated by a label on the side of the header tank.

Hi TbirdX. Once you have your sensor fitted, I believe you should perform an adaptation for it using VCDS or similar BEFORE starting the engine to initialise it correctly. Probably an explanation on the Ross-Tech web site somewhere. Apologies if you knew this already, but I thought it might be useful info. for you.

Hi. If it is any help, my 170 badge shows: TDI 4X4. I think this identifies it correctly (unless someone has changed the badge!) Not sure of the badge colours on the other variants. Trev M.

If you are not sure whether you have replaced the diff. oil with Haldex oil, and the noise started after the oil change, I think you know where to start your investigation. Seriously expensive damage has been reported to have been caused by doing this.

Strangely enough, yesterday I found that my rear badge (just the outer 'Skoda' disc) had become detached and was lying on the ground behind the car. There is still a black moulding attached to the car, so I presume with a bit of a clean up of the moulding and the disc, it should possible to re-attach it with some suitable adhesive. Does anyone have any recommendations on a suitable adhesive for this job please ? Thanks in advance. Trev M

This thread seems to have gone off topic somewhat from the original 'reversing sensors' problem; however I may as well continue the latest theme: Could someone please supply FACTS to support that there is something wrong with the 170 engine once it has had the fix, rather than 'hearsay.' My 170 has had the fix on for a considerable time (probably more than two years,) and is a fantastic car - plenty of 'grunt,' returns around 32 genuine mpg towing the caravan and 45 genuine mpg solo. It has covered 60K miles of mixed driving with absolutely no engine problems (other than items required for the fixed servicing regime.) I always use premium grade fuel in the form of Shell Vpower or BP Ultimate, but can not say if this has really had a beneficial effect on its reliability. I suppose the DPF may 'clog' next week, but who is to say it would not have done so without the fix? I would not hesitate to have another, but await the factual evidence as to why this might not be a good idea.

Thanks Graham and Urrell. Urrell - Yes, the rear screen wash is working fine.; I have run it for a considerable time and there is no sign of water appearing from beneath the trim panel, so I am assuming this is not what caused the water in the polysterene 'jack box.' For now it is perfectly dry, so I will keep an eye on it. I will report back here if I ever see it again and discover the cause. Thanks again. Trevor M.

Thanks Graham - I had seen your solution and I may have to resort to that, but I was hoping to be able to 'cure the disease rather than treat the symptoms.' The problem may be difficult to find in my case (as it seems to have been in others,) as the box is now dry after all the rain we have had. Any other suggestions welcome please.

Sorry to revive an old thread, but yesterday following a puncture, I needed to use the jack to change the wheel over. Having not looked in that area for a loooooong tome, I was surprised to find the jack and wheel wrench were rusty and the containing polystyrene box was rust stained to about three inches from the bottom. All items though were perfectly dry, despite the very wet weather we have had recently (the vehicle currently lives outside,) but water must have been in there at some time. There is no other indication of water ingress anywhere in the boot area. The car does NOT have a sunroof, and I have owned the car from new, so I know there has been no accident damage or work done in this area previously. Having read the whole of this thread, there does not seem to be a definitive solution, although some possibilities have been suggested; ie. high level brake light, rear light cluster, fuel filler aperture, leaking seal around the outer box etc. Could any of you helpful people who have managed to find a cure please let me know what the cause was? I am not sure I still have the problem, but water was definitely getting in at some time, and your knowledge may save me dismantling more than necessary in my investigation. Many thanks in advance - Trevor M

It may not be much help, but whenever my car's temperature has changed, I believe I have accidentally 'caught' the rotary control knob, which is very easy to do. From what you have said it does not look like a flap motor problem as you are able to revert to cool air by turning the temperature control down. It looks as if the system believes it has been asked to increase the temperature. You say you can access the controls easily - is it possible to swap the driver and passenger controls over to eliminate the possibility of the driver's side one being faulty? I concur with the suggestion of checking the error codes though. Good luck. Regards, Trevor M.

Kevin; I do not have a full answer to your question, but the initial running of the Haldex pump from VCDS is to 'push out' the filter to aid removal. I do not see why this can not be done by starting the engine, as I believe the pump should run initially. However, the procedure also involves running the pump for a period from VCDS after changing the filter and oil, presumably to avoid air locks in the system. I do not know if this is essential, but I have read somewhere on this forum (maybe further up this thread,) where someone thought their Haldex engagement was 'jumpy' after the service, but had not run the pump with VCDS afterwards.

I agree with Eriba and believe reported problems with the fix may be somewhat exaggerated. I am not convinced that mapping 'specialists' know better than the original system designers. For my part, I run a TDI 170 2013(almost always on VPower or Ultimate fuel,) which has had the fix, probably a couple of years ago. The car is now on 58,000 miles. Touch wood, I have not seen any problems with the AGR / DPF systems, and would not even know how frequently it performs regens. The car is used for mixed driving, although for very short trips I tend to use my wife's petrol car. However, my Haldex pump has recently shown the 'open circuit - intermittent' code - but that is another matter which has been discussed extensively in other threads. Why, oh why, do VW group not acknowledge the existence of the filter? !!!!!!!!!!!! (Rhetorical question.) Trevor M

Andy Sayle: You are probably correct about the air lock. I read somewhere that it is necessary to run the pump for a couple minutes using eg. VCDS, after changing the oil and filter. I would think though that it would eventually clear of its own accord.

YETY: Many thanks for the information, much appreciated. I shall now try to obtain these and duplicate your method. Thanks again. Kind regards, Trevor M.

YETY: I am not sure if you have seen my question to you above, but could you please let me know the details of the parts you used to make your extended harness, as I am about to change my pump, and would like to do the same? So far I have not been able to find the plug / socket combination online. Many thanks. Trevor M.