Simoneale1973

I'd read this somewhere when investigating my Coolant Loss, After trying nearly everything else! How much did the Matrix cost to replace? did you do it yourself!? or did you get it done at a garage? Was the Header Tank done at the same time? (a Non 'Silikat' one) does the system need flushing?? I just really want to know what I'm getting into before I do it/get it done!! Cheers!!

Possibly Tailgate Wiring! it can sometimes break in the Rubber grommet/tube thing. Wife had it on her 19 plate Fabby, the Rear Wash-Wipe stopped, then a Lighting error popped up!

My Octavia SE Estate (2013 plate) has contacted a weird noise! when I unlock the car, I get a weird 'squeak' from the rear Drivers side door! I think it's the solenoid for the central Locking! I've a couple of questions. 1, do you think it's the Solenoid? or could it be something more sinister!? 2, How easy is it to replace the Solinoid? (I'm sort of handy with a Trim removal tool and Socket set!) 3, Does it need 'Coding to the Car' ? 4, How much is it likely to cost me? I've had a look on Ebay, and there's a minefield of switches on there! I've really like to avoid going to the garage for this! as I just can't afford the Labour cost! Cheers in advance!

I just bought some 'blue tinted' H15's and H7's to give a White(ish) look to my headlights, as replacing the Headlights with LED's, if the car didn't come with them, is an MOT failure! The H15's are a tad more expensive than H7's (or even H4's) but a load cheaper than the LED equivalents.

Sometimes you have to sort problems in order! So topping the Washer Fluid first, may, and I mean, May! allow you to then 'Set' the tyre pressure! Give it a go! it won;t hurt! 😁

I have a Thinkware Dashcam, as does my wife, and I fitted both using the OBDII adapter lead that they sell, works great! We have the Parking Monitoring switched on in both cars, and when the Ignition is switched it fires up to Record, then stops when the car is switched off, if you are in Traffic for a very long time with Stop/Start it can go into Parking mode, but that's no biggie as it starts recording immediately as the engine Starts). I've also set in the software on both cameras to turn off the parking mode if, either, the car is parked for more than 48 hours or the Voltage drops below a certain level. It's possible to get a 'Hard Wiring' kit and 'Piggy-Back' fuse (usually the Rear Wiper) for Switched Power. Some Hard Wiring kits will have a Permanent and Switched Feed to allow for 'Parking Monitoring' and immediate start when the engine is started. The OBDII just made things easy (not having to find a switched fuse and earth point etc..)

Apparently VW specs on a System Flush and change some ancillary bits, is Flush the system, Fill the System (vacuum filling) , Get the Vehicle up to Temp,, Run it for 10 minutes, Let is cool sufficiently, Flush the System, Fill The System, Get the Vehicle up to temp... do this 4 - 5 times (that's what I've been told by 3 separate VW techs!), with a Technician on hand at your vehicle for the entire up to 6 hours (at £80 - £100 per Hour) so Parts: Clean Fluids each flush, New Header Tank and any pipes/clips that are needed, Pressure Testing, Labour: at least 5 hours maybe more!!! I was quoted £1200 for mine!!! So I'm going to an independent to get mine done, as I think I also need a Heater matrix replacement too (I think the Silica bag has gone POP)!!

It's a brand new Cap! albeit from Ebay... After some investigation (had a read on the Golf 6 and 7 forums)... I have a horrible feeling it's the 'Mit Silikat' bag leaked into the Heater Matrix! It's taking Aaaaages for the heater to get hot (thank god for heated seats) Gonna be 'spensive!!

I'm looking to swap out my Coolant Expansion Tank, Probably with the one above! but I think I might need to replace the Overflow and possibly the inlet, pipework (the car stood for a year before I bought it) and I think the pipe may have perishes slightly, as I'm getting Coolant drops, but the Oil is clear (not mayonnaise), The Temps are bang on, there's no smell of Hydrocarbons!.. What there is, is traces of Coolant around the cap and neck of the bottle, a residue on the outside of the bottle and a small puddle of the Coolant on the Engine Brace below the Expansion Tank. The system has been pressure tested at Skoda, but I think it might be somthing associated with the bottle, and 10 year old Rubber that's stood for a year has a tendency to perish. What Pipes (with Part Numbers) are needed for the Expansion Tank?, how hard a job is it to do? (I'm no mechanical n00b but I've not really done this sort of thing since my Mini Cooper back in the 90's) Cheers!

I'd be interested in this too!!

As far as I know, Fuse and Fuse Taps are not directional (like a Diode or LED) so current will flow either way through them! So it doesn't matter which way they're installed (They'd probably be key'd to fit one way if they were) Worst that would happen is the same as fitting an LED a**e about face, It' just won't work till you turn it round! 😊

Some Dashcams (eg - my Thinkware F200pro in my 64 plate Octy) have various Parking modes from Motion Sensing, Time Lapse and Energy Saving (which only senses impacts and instantly starts recording) and will switch off after a number of hours/days that you specify (I've got mine set to 48 hours) and a voltage level (again set by the user) Not had any Battery problems, even after leaving the car parked for a week+ My Wifes Thinkware F750 (in her 19 plate Fabby) only has the Motion Sensing and Time Lapse options, (had it on Motion Sensing, but it would trigger 40 - 50 times a night as our driveway faces a busy road) The lowest Time Lapse setting and 48 hour/12.1v shutdown have stopped any problems with the Battery! it's up to you! the unit should work with just the Switched live triggering the 'Continuous Recording' and the 'Parking mode' menu should be Blanked/Greyed out in the Menu! Good Luck! 😊

Most Dashcams recently, come with a Switched and Live (plus ground) connection! the Live for parking recording etc, the Switched for travelling! if you don't connect the Live, the dashcam will work no problems, but the Parking recording will not work! Most Facebook reviews and fitting instructions are from a time when getting a Live connection was a professional fitting thing! so most people either hid a lighter socket in the dash (connected to a switched live) or direct Switched and didn't worry about Parking recording! Just find a Permanent Live Fuse (have a look in the manual) and pop another piggyback in it! I always go with 5A fuses, just in case the Stop/Start system pops the fuse!

There are a few Dashcams now available that use the OBDII socket to Hard Wire into the car! (Thinkware, Nextbase) I have a Thinkware F200Pro with the OBD wire, and I bought the same for my Wifes F750, Both now have full functionality (Parking recording etc) and it's the same price as the Hard Wire cable kit. otherwise I believe the Rear Wiper is on its own fuse, check the Car Manual for which one that is!

But upgrading to MIB2 (or 2.5) is prohibitively expensive!