Doily

The flexi needs replacing on my 1.2, CGPA petrol engine. As the front end of the flexi is very close to where the pipe starts to bend up to the cat, I'm wondering if welding the new one in will be necessary, rather than clamping. Has anyone come across this problem when replacing the flexi section only? TIA

On my HTP engine I did not have to remove the inlet manifold to get at the crank position sensor. I got away with undoing the (5 I think) bolts that hold the manifold to the head and then pushing the manifold against the bulkhead. There was enough flexibility in the wiring and hoses etc. to be able to reach down to the sensor without having to do any more dismantling.

Yes thanks. Yesterday I gave it a waggle and it works fine. I have given the selector mechanism a quirt of WD. Thank you for your input.

This morning I could not change gear (5 speed manual) and had to leave car at home. Last night I had to negotiate some floods. Is there a connection?

Are the backs of your rear seats secured correctly?

I'm sorry to read about your problems Jogon. I replaced the coil packs. Like you I was concerned about arcing etc. I could only find replacement rubbers on line from China and I wasn't able to wait for delivery. I did not know Skoda called them coil pack towers. I searched under coil pack rubbers. Good luck.

My 1.2, 12 valve, petrol never starts on first turn of the key (hot or cold). It cranks over normally but will only start when I return the key and then turn it a second time. Then it starts straight away and idles and drives normally. I get no codes on my VW code reader and no warning lights. I can hear the in tank fuel pump running for a few seconds on each turn of the key. I'm wondering if there is a non return valve in the system somewhere that is meant to retain pressure for the next start? Any ideas on the cause would be very welcome. TIA.

Why does my 1.2, 12v, CGPA never start on first turn of the ignition key but always starts on the second turn of the key (hot or cold)? It's only behaved like this since I recently changed the timing chain etc. (involving removing throttle body and inlet manifold). Once started it idles and runs perfectly. No codes are shown on my (fairly basic) reader. No warning lights on dash. Have I disturbed something when doing the chain? TIA

Got back to working on car yesterday. After undoing manifold screws there was enough flex in the hoses and harness to move the manifold sufficient to give access to the crank sensor (thank you again Breezy_Pete). The sensor pulled out without a struggle and the locking pin slid in likewise. Day off today. Back to working on car tomorrow.

Thank you for your replies Breezy_Pete. Was the engine out of the car?

Are there any tricks of the trade for fitting the crank timing tool on my 1.2, 12v, CGPA please? I can't see or feel what I'm doing when reaching up from underneath. Thanks very much.

I've got into a bit of a pickle whilst trying to change the chain etc., on my 1.2, 12v, CGPA. With the old chain still fitted, as I slowly turned the crank to get to TDC with a spanner on the pulley nut, the chain jumped on the crank sprocket. And now, when I get to TDC (by lining up the dots on the crank and balance shaft gears), the slots on the end of the camshafts are a mile out. Thinking I might be at TDC on the exhaust stroke, when I turn the crank about 45 degrees it comes up against a dead stop. I'm thinking that is a piston hitting a valve. Is there a way of finding out if I'm at TDC exhaust or TDC compression? I'm thinking that if I knew it was the compression stroke then I could adjust the cams to fit the locking tools after I remove the old chain. Thank you for your help in advance.

When I pulled the coilpack off each plug on my 1.2 , 12 v/v, CGPA, HTP engine the rubber (plastic?) sleeve detached from the coilpack and was left behind on the plugs. I damaged each sleeve to fit the socket to get the plugs out. I thought changing the plugs was going to be straightforward - I never learn. Can I refit the coilpacks without the sleeves? TYIA.

Breezy_Pete, for future reference, would you say brush replacement could be a DIY job?

Sold my Mk1 with 1.2 HTP engine with a timing chain, tensioner and guides that had done 160k without any problems. Just the normal "death rattle" on startup.

The brake fluid has never been changed in any of my family cars that I've serviced over the past 50 years plus. Most have exceeded 150k and 15 years, with normal use (no hard braking, rallying, etc.) when I got rid. Never had any issues. Maybe I've been lucky?

AntD6, Could you please explain what "reset" has to be done for a Lambda sensor change. I've changed many over the years, without any issues but never done a reset. Thank you.

Thanks for your question Jocko. It is cold on cold days, until I turn the knob to "Hi". I have not measured with a thermometer. Just touch and feel.

Just for clarity: The air being blown into the cabin is at ambient outside air temp (at all blower speeds) at all temperature settings unless I turn the temperature control knob to the "Hi" setting. On the "Hi" setting the air blown into the cabin goes very quickly to max heat. Sorry for the confusion.

My Climatronic on my Mk2 Fab only blows hot air when I turn the temp knob to the "Hi" position. The blower, AC and the footwell, middle and windscreen functions work as they should. The temp gauge on the dash stays on a constant 90 degrees after the engine warms up and the coolant level is correct in the expansion bottle. Has anyone got any ideas please as to why the blown air is either very hot (when on Hi) or ambient. Thank you very much in advance.

I have a knocking noise in time with road speed (not engine revs) when I'm coasting or slowing down. But only when steering straight ahead. It stops when I turn the steering wheel slightly. Could anyone help me please with suggestions for the cause and/or how to investigate it. Thank you.

The adjuster nut is hidden by the weird shaped casting that supports the arm rest. This is the way I did it, but there may be easier ways: Prise away the trim panel on the passenger side of the arm rest support. Then undo the arm rest pivot screw and remove the arm rest. Undo the screws holding the centre consul. They are under the rubber mats in the front and rear cup holders. This will give the consul enough freedom of movement to access the 4 screws holding down the previously mentioned casting. You'll need a long extension to your wrench, with a universal joint on the end to reach the screws. They are Torx but sorry, I can't remember the size. Then wriggle out the weird casting to reveal the handbrake adjuster nut. I hope this helps.

I've always thought toe in on the rear of my Mk 2 fab could not be adjusted. But I've just been told by a member of staff at the local tyre fitting retailer I often use, that if I paid extra for the car to go back on the ramp again (they had just corrected the front alignment as I requested) they could adjust the rear providing, they said, the bolts aren't seized with rust which, they added, is very common. Was that BS? Thank you. I would appreciate your thoughts.

Thank you, Breezy Pete. I've just ordered it from them.

How do I know which filter is correct for my car? I have a 12 valve, HTP, CGPA, 51kW, June 2011 engine. All the usual online retailers offer a choice of 3 different sizes of non canister filters (it's definitely not a canister type). I live a distance from retailers, so don't want to start oil change without the correct parts. Can anyone help please? TYIA.