amk2vr6

Yes the values where the same or very similar. Only difference being that it seemed a bit better. Look at the pics above, the injector I removed had a couple of nicks in the injector seal. The one I replaced it with had perfect seals, but I had to reuse the clamp bolts which are stretch (use once) bolts. One of the bolts on cylinder 4 is rounded off which tells me the bolts have been used and reused a few times. I have a full set of injector seals and bolts that will be fitted this weekend. I will adjust Torsion to +0.5, and re adjust rocker clearance with new plungers too, as well as making sure injectors are seated correctly without damaging seals. I have a receipt for injector loom from September that came with the car, and has done barely 1000 miles since, however, the wires look hard and brittle, which makes me think it wasn't fitted and was possibly returned. I will be checking resistance of wires back to ECU as I now have a pin out.

Sorry I didn't see this post. I have 3 spare injectors that came with the car. I have swapped one already, and it got slightly better, but overall no difference.

Does anyone know - Isn't cylinder 3 used in line with the Crank sensor? I've read it somewhere but can't find the page now.

And it does come and go. You can watch the measuring blocks, and cylinder three go out to +2 - +3 itll start rocking and missing for maybe 5-10 seconds, and then it'll come right back inline with all values +/- 0.3 for 5-10 seconds...

Thanks Plantman! I've read that page. Quite a lot of information there, even if it is for passats its still relevant. Read the ECU remap stuff too, it taught me a bit. Cam problem then it looks like on that diagnosis. Only thing that goes against that is the fact it comes and goes. Surely a worn cam would be a constant?

As above really. Obviously Glow plugs are hidden away, so whats the process?

Thank you! So map is requesting the correct boost then. What next to try... I'm sort of stumped here.

Can't believe I dont that! I've ruined the thread now...

Ill add all of the images again here to keep the thread in line...

Is there any way I can edit my posts Mods?

****! I've ****ed around with the privacy settings on photobucket and it has ruined all of the links to Images!!!

Just out of interest mate, is yours lumpy at idle at all? Do you have VCDS?

Thats because you've got a PD yourself and will know what to expect in future :P haha

The white smoke that comes and goes is unburnt diesel and so is the strong eye watering smell. It only comes and goes though. Surely this is lack of compression to not combust the fuel fully?

Lol. Probably is knowing my luck. No way its that simple!! If you watch the video the butterfly valves are sprung open, so just removing the vacuum hose would keep all of the ports open. However, I'm not sure at what revs the valves open and close, do you know? This could be why it judders between 2-3k revs?

Thank you. I'll order some now.

Here is a Video of the play at the end of the shaft Just noticed watching it back that my 3 year old says "Me do fixing" I replied "You fixing?", to which he says "Yeah, Starts Now" haha. Didn't hear him say that before. And here is what I mean by the nick's missing out of cylinder 3 + 4 on the ports - In fact you can just about see it in the video above too.

Funnily enough yes, and it looked a bit suspect! The Actuator holds vacuum no problem, but the flap itself had a bit of play in it side to side. And cylinders 3+4 have a little nick off the bottom of them. Quite hard to explain. I think I have some pics, give me a sec.

Also, just a quick thought. What boost pressure should the car be requesting if it has been remapped? Mine is asking for 2500mBar, so minus atmospheric pressure actually 1.5bar. That's 21.7psi which is an awful lot! My old Audi S4 only used to pull about 18psi!! Can anyone have a look themselves and compare to my log on the previous page? Thanks

£55.38 for crank sensor from TPS. Not A massive amount but I don't want to spend money if it isn't going to solve it. I've wasted no end in the past troubleshooting problems using the fit and hope method and promised myself I wouldn't do that with this car. Anyone know how to test it? I've got No fault codes for it, even when it cut out and wouldn't restart.

Thanks mate. I did think that the map might be the problem. Can you see the pics of the DPF delete pipe, it looks a bit of a homebrew, so could be a homebrew map too that's not taken into account engine wear or fuel differences or god knows what else!! Would be nice to have the cars side by side and compare bits. ECU would be my first thing to swap but it isn't possible due to immobiliser. Don't know what else unless you just want to give me your engine to rule out compression problems? Haha No in all seriousness if you want to come over and have a look/help I will pay your fuel and sort you beer money and tea/coffee and food?

I take it then just the A suffix of the 621 part is the rear and uses the two lugs?

****ing Mission! lol. Looks like Ill be renting a ramp. Dont mind doing 5 speeds on my back, but nothing 6 speed or DSG! I think I will change the sensor first... from research it isn't that hard to do once you move the oil cooler.

Thanks mate. I promised myself I wouldn't throw money at this without knowing whats up. I've done that so many times in the past. Where is the bulletin, do you have a link? Is it a VW issued TSB? Hope I can get to it without taking the box off, and it is the sensor not the sender ring!!!! Quite strange it hasn't thrown a code, and the RPM reading never fluctuates either.