amk2vr6

Yeah I noticed this while searching online. Its 8mm actually. 80mm as opposed to 88mm However, I tried to order the A suffix, and the chap at TPS said they dont do them - they only do the AAUL part. Still haven't bought any

Seen a post on a forum (here maybe?) where someone had placed a magic tree air freshener in the cabin filter housing. Worth a try lol.

WOW! Impressive, especially for what is potentially around £800 worth of bits including mapping! Just wondering, alot of cars on DD have PU filled gear linkage ends. Anyone any idea what they have done, and what bits have been filled and the potential benefit?

Just out of interest, what sort of power can these make on a 2.0 TDI 170 if mapped correctly?

Looks a good deal. I'm going to buy one for the Mrs Golf, and one for myself. There's not a lot to it to be honest. Vacuum old refrigerant out, pressure test, fill with new refrigerant and dye. I wouldn't go to a dealer to do it.

Are you buying 30mm lowering springs? Can't quite make out what you mean...

Yeah as above, I'd go with wheel bearing. Clutch bearing is normally prominent at idle, and usually shuts up once the pedal is pressed. Does the car make the noise at 70mph if you knock it into neutral and free wheel?

Never heard of Lion Garage. If you want to compare anything to mine, I am in Northampton. Know my way around the engine quite well now, and have Vagcom if you want? No charge or nothing, just a helping hand

Tell me about it. I had the same with our old zafira. They had removed the head to solve a smoking problem, but hadn't even put all the exhaust manifold bolts back in, and one of the cam caps was finger tight!! And the smoking was because they had cut the dpf out and not had it mapped out of the ECU and was in pretty much permanent regen! Idiots should be banned from owning tools.

Just to update my offering to this thread. A new set of injector clamp bolts and a full seal set cured it all. Correctly torqued down, and adjusted the rocker clearance too. No more misfiring or smoke. No lack of power or juddering. It pulls clean and hard all the way to the redline. Only moot point is it still smells strongly of diesel but this I've read happens to a lot of cars that have had the dpf removed and remapped. I am a happy man now!

Haha, getting there mate!

Thats probably why I found used engine oil under the lip of the seal by the wiper cover then. Previous owner told me that it had been compression tested, and I thought using a mechanical one would be messy. They went to all that trouble and all they needed to do was replace the injector seals and injector clamp bolts lol Thanks chaps.

Just to add, I think this was actually caused by the injector bolts stretching. All of the seals I removed today where fine. It was last weekend that I removed injector #3 with the dodgy ones. Not sure though if they stretched over time, or if the 'mechanic' who worked on it last reused them causing them to lose tension. The pieces of silicone floating between Tandem pump and injector wouldn't have helped either though. And again, thanks to you all.

Right, where to start! First of all, I had the bits on order from eBay and TPS when I found a post on UK-MK4 forum where a chap said that the injector clamp bolts can stretch over time. I PM'd him for more info and he said that a friend of his is an Ex Master Tech at VW who now owns his own independent garage and he has seen stretched bolts a few times! Anyway, Got a set of seals - 03G 198 051D - from eBay for £60 delivered from Plymouth Audi (Normally an eye watering £107.33!!). I ordered the rest from TPS - N10 581 101 - x5 rocker bolt - £5.65 for all WHT 003 179 - x8 injector bolt - £16.48 for all 03G 145 215 A - tandem pump seal - £6.79. I also ordered Genuine Oil, filter, fuel filter and air filter for good measure - Funnily enough these bits from TPS where cheaper than Euro's with a 25% discount! Anyway, I cracked on... Cam cover off and visual inspection of Cams again after removing rocker arm - Looking at Cylinder 3 lobes - Exhaust - Inlet - Anyway, I stopped taking so many pics now and cracked on. I whipped the injectors out and noticed immediately why they are called stretch bolts!! Now I know I reused the injector bolts last weekend when I replaced injector #3, but I knew what I was doing, made sure I didn't over tighten them so not to snap them and immediately ordered a full set of new ones. Pretty obvious why they are USE ONCE. No idea who was working on the car previously, but they are numpties! Previous owner said it was an independent garage, and had also been looked at by Skoda too! Reusing the injector bolts, and damaging injector seals. Silicone sealant everywhere too - worrying stuff. After removing the injectors, I kept finding pieces of silicone around the base of the injectors and in the injector holes! I made sure to clean the seats as best as I could without a compressor and air line. No damage at all. I then went to remove the Tandem Pump, and found it was pretty much stuck on! Thats where the silicone was (aswell as the cam cover I removed last weekend) The battery on my phone then died :( I managed to get the pump off easily enough, but it took me 40 minutes with a stanley blade to clean the mating surface on the head, and the back of the pump. I then removed the pulled out the internal fuel rail and cleaned it up, using a piece of hose to blow through the head. I found no end of tiny pieces of silicone everywhere! I cleaned the injectors and the nozzles, and used fresh engine oil to lube up the bottom before putting the new O-Rings into place. I also poured a tiny bit down into the injector holes too lining the walls. I managed to press them into place with my hands while rotating them left and right. I torqued them up to 3NM and 270° in one hit. New plunger and adjusting bolt too. I then refitted the rocker arm shaft using new bolts - 20NM and 90°. New Tandem gasket and bolts torqued to 20NM. New Fuel Filter and air filter fitted while I was working on it. And after about 5 minutes of priming and cranking the engine over on and off in 5 second blasts, but with a massive cloud of smoke... I expected it because of the oil in the injector bores. After 20 seconds the smoke disappeared and it purred. The engine was noticeably quieter too, and had a perfect tick over with no lumps bumps or misfires. haha. I took some pictures after tidying up this evening of the bolts, gasket and rocker adjusters and plungers. You can see they have stretched different amounts, and one head is rounded off too. The clamp marks are from my mole grips. Plungers - All well worn, but notice the one furthest right was so worn the edge had chipped. Excuse the finger nails - bath time in a moment! lol Adjusters with a lip to the edge and grooves worn into them - Siliconed gasket!! We took the car for a spin and it pulls so well! It is immense for a 2.0 diesel engine, and reasonably refined and quiet too. Still a diesely smell coming from the car, but my mate has borrowed it for the week to put some miles on it, and I will see what its like after 100 miles. I really suggest anyone with a lumpy idle or noisy engine should replace injector seals. They come with the plungers and adjusters too. Mine has done 146k miles, but has FSH and serviced every 10k too, not on longlife and you can see just how worn they are above. Even if you dont have a misfire, the difference of noise at idle is night and day. I'll try and get a video to compare the earlier one when he pops round tomorrow. I am now a very happy man. I'd just like to thank everyone who has helped me across the various forums THANKS! Tony.

ITS FIXED! HAHAHA. I'll update this later, just grabbing something to eat now.

Thank you so much. I read elsewhere someone had a split there and caused problems with Crank sensor too. I will check it out this weekend. Thanks again, I appreciate it

Thank you!!! One last question - Was the break around the bend of the loom near the bottom of the block?

Just a thought, I wonder if the bolts that are holding the injector down are too stretched and causing the injector to lift slightly under pressure? Sounds silly but you have 400+ Psi pushing out of the cylinder, and up to 29,000Psi (I've read) coming out of the injector also forcing it upwards. A slightly stretch of the bolt would be enough? Hence why they are stretch bolts and are use once only?

http://www.audi-sport.net/vb/a3-s3-sportback-8p-chassis/216867-2-0-tdi-bmn-injector-issues-i-think-no-fault-codes-misfire-hesitation-intermitt.html#post2163667 :P

Can I ask was it faulty from the 3 pin connector to the sensor itself or hidden away in the loom?

Funnily enough I've tried to get in touch with Crasher from there. He seems to know alot about the 2.0 16v engine, but no joy yet.

Wow, nice links thanks again for your help. Here's the pic of the injector hole with a damaged seat from the first link you supplied - And here is the best PIC I've got of the suspect cylinder on mine -

I know, if it wasn't for it being a different vehicle I would have thought I bought that car! My Flywheel and clutch have just been changed too! haha. I've read that, and it was never updated to show the result :( I've spent days scouring the net and nothing is conclusive. Only thing I keep coming back to is Crank sensor. Do you know if the 2.0 TDI can be compression tested as glow plugs are inside head?

Sorry so what part of it was? What was replaced? Thanks again.

Hi, thanks for the reply. Did it flag a code on VCDS/Vagcom? And did you remove the box to change the sensor ring too, or just the external sensor in the bell housing?