D.FYLAKTOS

https://www.autoscout24.com/lst/skoda/felicia?sort=standard&desc=0&ustate=N%2CU&size=20&page=1&atype=C& https://www.newsnow.co.uk/classifieds/cars-vans-for-sale/skoda-felicia

I forgot to say that the 444 kilometres were ''mixed" which means 5% was City traffic and the rest was half national road (80-120 Km per hour speed) and mountain route with curbs (many times 2nth and 3rd gear till 5000-5500 rpm). Deep inside me i am optimist that in the new trip the things would be much better, i dare to say much better than ever. The instant fuel consumption can play many tricks especially if the road is slightly downhill and you can maintain the same speed with less petal pressing or for few seconds with not press it at all, i have some photos to prove it so i pay attention now to the Total consumption (with the Greek letter Σ on the TC-6 menu) when it's time for a trip. Once again i would like to thank you for your help. ☺️

What the factory mirror sees and what the rear camera on a morning full of moisture. I wish i had installed that earlier, oh how much i envy those guys with their large Lcd screen on their dashboard right from the factory.

Here is a photo of my average fuel consumption after a 444 kilometres trip few months back, now things are much better because i have made a correction to my coolant plus an additive and i hope due to the Easter vacations i will manage to do another trip to see the difference. In city traffic things are much better than before, i almost finished another test and i will post some photos.

No matter how hard i try i will not get rid of the old Mineral oil from my car to add the Synthetic but if i do it i will have to live with the fear that maybe something will get wrong Every foam bubble or noise will ring a bell to my mind and i don't want to live like this. Even if i go to a repair-shop and manage to do thing perfectly still there is no guarantee that my Felicia would like the new oil. I haven't met here in this forum nor in a Greek forum a Felicia owner who did this so i don't want to be the first who will try it. If i start having a leak for example the situation can easily become a nightmare (repair-shop, money for parts and the mechanic, many days without a car, extra money for taxi to work etc) so i have to stay on the Safe sight. The 2 bottles arrived in the Courier station, i will wait few days for the weather to get warmer and i will ''get my hand dirty'' for another time.

As i saw the inside of the reservoir isn't with sensors or metal screen to snag or something that need extra caution as a MAF sensor. Many times the compressed air is adjustable so there is no need to be in full open, from distance few pressings from the one end to pass air through the other will be enough. I will use microfibre clothes or in worst case a quality college t-shirt that i don't need any more. It's a risk that i can not take, i have an old car and there is no a Felicia driver here in Greece to consult me that he did the same with Synthetic and after a year at least everything is fine etc. I don't want to make my Trusty as a ''test animal". If i use synthetic and something goes wrong i will pay the price and i don't want it because will cost me a lot of money, take me out from the family budget plus that even if i try hard there is no chance to make a completely flush on the system working alone on an alley. Even if i let my car in a repair-shop i am not sure that will try as much as they can to remove the Mineral oil for 100% from the system. The oil that i have now is from 1999, any change with a fresh brand name oil will do nothing more than good. This isn't a coolant sensor or a radiator switch that i can change ASAP if something goes wrong, i have no access to the whole steering wheel mechanism so i won't do this step ahead.

I can not reconcile with the idea of what i will be out of my calculations in the kilometers i have traveled to calculate the intervals of engine oil-transmission change, for fuel consumption etc. I do not want to hold a pocket computer every time and say "the odometer says A but in reality are B so the next oil change must be done at D and not at C", this will confuse me, will distract me and make me nervous. I keep detailed service notes and i want to correspond in ''real'' kilometers, the 3,1% error looks to much to my eyes.

Do not worry, i read and understand far more than i can write. Compressed air can be found in local gas-stations and repair-shops but this means i had to abandon my tools etc beside the car (keep in mind that i work alone in the side of the road) for a while so this isn't wise. My first thought is to remove as much oil as a can with a syringe and a small piece of tube as an extension, then take the resevoir in my hands and: 1) use rag and with a thin stick to swirl it to collect as much as remaining oil it can, then a new clean rag or 2) use rag and with a thin stick to swirl it to collect as much as remaining oil it can and then use a cleaner spray or isopropyl alcohol with another clean rag to make the inside or the reservoir as much clean as i can. Then i will start the oil replacement procedure (fill new, move the streering wheel from lock to lock, collect the old in a bottle, add some new, move the steering wheel from left to right etc till i see new oil to run inside the plastic bottle). I will try previous night to park my car in a quiet alley so next day i can work with quietness and safely.

Febi Bilstein 06162 Mineral. I saw a video where a guy used Carburettor spray to clean the remains of the old hydraulic oil from the reservoir but i hesitate to do the same.

Mineral oil had when i bought it and all these years once i added some. Have you changed yours? The new order (2 bottles of Febi Bilstein) is on it's way, next week if the weather permits it i will make the change by myself. Today after a small route of few kilometers the level was between Min and Max.

They do although the local dealer does not promote them properly so everyone here thinks that are mainly for old British classic cars. https://www.skroutz.gr/c/1228/Ladia-Autokinhtou/m/22964/Millers-Oils.html https://farlekas-parts.gr/λαδια-τρακτερ-millers-oils/ As for Febi Bilstein 06162 tomorrow i will give a call to the dealer and i will check my car's hydraulic oil level (we had snow for 2 days and i couldn't).

That is the proper procedure. Febi Bilstein 06162 (mineral) can be found here in Greece: https://www.todos.gr/febi-bilstein-ydrayl-ladi-06162#product-related https://megaparts.gr/Part/FEBI-LADI-YDRAYLIKOY-SYST-ANARTISIS-PR-06162/e10106162 According to FUCHS advisor for my car i can use engine oil SAE 0W-30 or 5W-30 or 0W-40 or 5W-40 😵 but i have never heard a Greek driver to use it in his Felicia or a mechanic to suggest it or i have never read it in a Skoda forum.

Hydraulic oil for central hydraulic system, power steering and height adjustment https://partsfinder.bilsteingroup.com/el/search/make/Škoda/model/Felicia 1994 - 2001/vehicle/1.3 MPI - 50 kW | 68 hp/article-group/Χημικά προιόντα?sortby=rel&sortdir=asc&f=15 For my car they suggest Febi and SWAG 46161 as ''new edition" BUT also the Febi and SWAG 06161 as ''old edition" Isn't this a mess? 😲 Another car owner (different brand) had the same problem with me Thread: Pentosin Flush (7.1 Discontinued) - Is Febi Bilstein 06162 MIXABLE with 7.1? https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?2126419-Pentosin-Flush-(7-1-Discontinued)-Is-Febi-Bilstein-06162-MIXABLE-with-7-1 Thus, I need an hydraulic fluid that is fully compatible and mixable with the discontinued 7.1, and that can be repeatedly mixed during the partial flush exercise described above. This Febi Bilstein 06162 product ..... may indeed be it, but I want to be sure it is MIXABLE before proceeding. Do any of you know if the Febi Bilstein 06162 product is - over and above being a replacement for 7.1 - also compatible and mixable with the old 7.1? Take a look at one of his posts: https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?2126419-Pentosin-Flush-(7-1-Discontinued)-Is-Febi-Bilstein-06162-MIXABLE-with-7-1&p=27900911#post27900911 In the meantime, I sent an email to the Managing Director of Febi's North American operations (his contact info was on their site), and append the correspondence below for the future reference of the group. Answer: febi 06162 is absolutely compatible with CHF 7.1 from Pentosin. It can be mixed with CHF 7.1 or can replace it in all applications. I think we have a winner! ✔️ Yes that's why they invented terms as ''synthetic technology" or ''synthesised" or ''technosynthese" or ''synthetic blend" etc. The manufactures oil is in my car's system from 1999 and we have 2022, i think even if i put the same or replace it with another similar oil will do only good.

What performance properties are important? To appreciate the differences in hydraulic oils, it helps to understand what performance properties are important. Hydraulic oil needs to last a long time (meaning extended oxidation life) and protect equipment by providing anti-wear properties while preventing rust and corrosion. Most hydraulic oils are designed to have good demulsibility properties. This means they separate water quickly so it can be drained from the sump, which is important because water doesn’t lubricate as well as oil. Also, hydraulic oils should resist varnish formation, which can result in sticking servovalves. The fluid’s ability to release air quickly is important so pumps are protected from cavitation, where air in the oil is released and then redissolved, generating heat that can damage pumps. What goes into hydraulic oil and how can formulations vary? A typical non-viscosity modified hydraulic oil will be formulated with 99% base oil and 1% additive. There are a number of high-quality base oils available today. There also are some lower quality, low-cost base oils that find their way into hydraulic oil formulations. These base oils can cause significant performance problems, including emulsification of water, which can increase pump wear, corrosion, and poor filtration. Fluids formulated with poor base oils also may have a shorter effective life, resulting in more frequent oil drains. It is important for end users to ask their lubricant suppliers about the base oil in their fluid and its impact on performance properties such as oxidation life, water separation, filtration, and anti-wear. https://www.powermotiontech.com/technologies/hydraulic-fluids/article/21880514/are-all-mineralbased-hydraulic-oils-the-same Audi forums say they stopped using mineral years ago, and it been replaced with Synthetic under the same part number. Others say G004000 M2 is just a replacement part number for G002000. Some say the synthetic is backward compatible and can be mixed with the mineral, the label on the bottle says the opposite. ______________ Ignore the quoted warning! It has been valid at the time of manufacture, but has become obsolete since. G 002 000 has been phased out and been superseded by G 004 000, which I think is semi-synthetic/synthetic anyway. Febi 06161 is a correct fluid, but if you can't get that, any other fluid from a reputable manufacturer that claims to meet the G 002 000 and G 004 000 specs should be good. I personally used Febi 06161 in my car that has the same G 002 000 warning label on it, and no problem so far. https://www.clubtouareg.com/threads/use-only-mineral-hydraulic-fluid-g002000.292052/ Looks like this can replace the Pentosin CHF 7.1 Description This is a green mineral based hydraulic fluid equivalent to G-002-000 and G-004-000-M2. If in doubt, please check in your vehicle handbook for specification requirements before use.

In Felicia the reservoir is high and behind the front grill beside the water reservoir for the wind shield ejectors, away from exhaust manifold and no leak is visible around it or in the hoses. The company's pdf does not leave an option for a completely flush and replace with a synthetic as CHF 11S or other brand. CHF 11S covers the VW TL 52 146 (G 002 000) of the CHF 7.1. I have a can with CHF 7.1 amount on it but i can not compromise with that direction ''this Mineral or nothing", it's not brake fluid that is forbidden to use DOT 5 if the manufacturer says DOT 4 or DOT 5.1 I know that you are not a mechanic, GR is not USA so we don't sue or blame someone if something goes wrong by a decision of us. 😉

Oroa dig inte, inga problem.

To be honest in 22 years only one time i just add a quantity of Pentosin CHF 7.1 from a spare can in the reservoir. I heard for some days a noise like ''grrrng" every time i was full turning the steering wheel and when i opened the cap i saw that some mineral oil was missing. Nor me or the mechanic has seen some ''suspicious" and after all these years i want to change the fluid and as a precaution i had the thought to add some of that ''Power Steering Stop Leak" but first i think i have to make a thorough visual test by lifting the car to see if there is a leak first and then decide if it's properly to change the whole fluid with a synthetic one. I have some spare CHF 7.1 but after all these years would have moisture on it? (hygroscopicity).

You are not the only one, i visited few years ago a repair-shop for the hanger rubber of the muffler, one of the employees (which back in his country didn't allowed for the civilians to have cars and now he became a ''mechanic") told me with grimace to don't bother any more with Felicia and buy a new model. Immediately i glare at him, ''do you have 15.000 euro to buy a new car?" ''Hm...No way" ''So why you tell me to do this?" ,wrathful i left and went to the next exhaust repair-shop and for 15 years now i am a customer of them. Buy a Haynes Manual from ebay, has step-by step photos for many DIY tasks and this will save you time and money.

Have you ever use Power Steering Stop Leak products? Some of them say that except stop leaking they protect the O-rings, protect from wear, make the pump work easier etc.

I can not phone to a foreign company and ask for technical details for a product, my english are not good and soon or latter the communication will ''stuck". https://www.bestpartstore.co.uk/2451781-liqui-moly-power-steering-oil Oil - manufacturer recommendation: VW G 002 000 If the capacity is 1 litre for sure i will buy 2 because a completely flush must be done so almost none of the old oil must stay inside.

SKODA FELICIA II (6U1) 1.3 (50 KW / 68 PS) AUDI-VW TL 52 146 https://www.todos.gr/antallaktika/anartisi-axonon-vrachiones-elegchou-trochoi/ladia/skoda/felicia-ii-6u1/1-3-11193 https://kritosparts.gr/Code/G 002 000 https://www.opieoils.co.uk/search.aspx?search=G 002 000 All of them are given as Synthetics and in Green colour. A bottle (1 litre) is enough to do the job? Asking a company here for a product as Oil for example for an old car as Felicia there is no guarantee that they will answer (as some US companies-shops do immediately) so we are trying to learn more by intersection of information between pdf from the manufacturer-forums etc.

https://www.audiworld.com/forums/audi-100-a6-c4-platform-24/power-steering-fluid-2146435/page2/ Except the known: There has been a good measure of controversy over this question. Here is what our own experience shows. Over the last decade we've had no compatibility problems mixing the CHF 7.1 non-synthetic mineral base fluid and the CHF 11S synthetic based Audi hydraulic fluid. No problems with our own vehicles and no problems with our customers vehicles. Our success in mixing the 2 Audi hydraulic fluids coincides with the Audi tech bulletin 48-89-T07 issued in November 1989. It states "The new [synthetic Pentosin 11S] and old hydraulic fluid [non-synthetic Pentosin 7.1] can be mixed if necessary ... the part number [remains] unchanged." So according to Audi, you can mix the 2 Audi hydraulic fluids. Even though the composition of the fluid changed (CHF 11S synthetic mineral oil vs CHF 7.1 non-synthetic mineral oil), Audi didn't even change the part number. All 1990 - on Audi models have come filled from the factory with the synthetic CHF 11S Audi hydraulic fluid (G002000). Please Note: Never mix generic hydraulic fluid or other fluid with the CHF 7.1 or CHF 11S Audi hydraulic fluid (G002000). If you or someone else did, flush the Audi hydraulic fluid as described below. there is a guy with only 1 post post which writes very ''strictly" This is the FINAL WORD! No more discussion...ever!! Every other opinion from every other source is WRONG. Read the OEM containers for yourself, and remove all doubt. DO NOT believe the guys at the Parts Counters OR the Mechanics who are Audi Trained. "Pentosin" is the OEM for the hydraulic oil used in Audi's (and occasionally BMW's, VW's, etc.) Steering Systems. It is called by many names, part numbers and packaged in numerous different shape and size containers, BUT the following is "The More Sure Word": "Pentosin" CHF 7.1 (White Can, Green Cap) is a natural mineral based fluid used in the Audi 5000 from 1984 to 1989. Use ONLY 7.1, anything else will dissolve your steering pump seals and hoses, and your parking space will show up on the EPA "Super Clean-up" site list as oil-saturated from all the leaks! Pentosin CHF llS (Green Can, Red Cap) is a synthetic mineral based fluid used (thus the "S" in the name),in the Audi 5000 for the 1990 and after. The 1990+ Models use different materials in the hydraulic system which are not subject to disintegration. Use ONLY 11S, which has a slightly wider operating temperature range. NOTE: In some Audi service Bulletins it says that they are interchangeable and/or they can be mixed. THIS IS A LIE. Audi does not know what they are talking about. The OEM Manufacturer warns against this on each OEM container. Audi re-packages these products for sale to their customers, but omits this strict warning from the original manufacturer. Audi went so far as to carry over the exact same part number "G 002 000" from the original CHF 7.1, to the newer CHF 11S, which has confused many and caused the destruction of countless hydraulic systems. CAUTION: NEVER, NEVER MIX THE CHF 7.1 & CHF 11S. THE RESULTS CAN BE CATASTROPHIC!

Thank you @nta16 aka Nigel. Febi Bilstein 06161 Synthetic Power Steering Fluid CHF 11S https://www.porza.co.uk/product/hydraulic-oil-febi-bilstein-06161 OEN G 002 000 — SKODA OEN G 002 500 — SKODA OEN G 004 000 M2 — SKODA Another one that i have found is this Amsoil which is Synthetic https://www.theloladia.gr/el/ygra-timonioy-1/amsoil-synthetic-power-steering-fluid-473ml.html https://www.buyoildirect.com/amsoil-products/amsoil-other-products/power-steering-fluid/multi-vehicle-synthetic-power-steering-fluid.html VW/Audi TL-52146; G002000 1 litre is enough to do the job?

I want to replace mine but what can i use as alternative since the Pentosin CHF 7.1 is discontinued? The specification of Hydraulic oil is G 002 000 Many years back we had this: Pentosin cHF 7.1 is a high performance hydraulic fluid, formulated with mineral base oils, for life-time lubrication in older/vintage vehicle aggregates. It serves in power steering systems, shock absorber, automatic level control and other chassis suspension systems. Pentosin CHF 7.1 is NOT miscible with modern high performance hydraulic fluids such as the Pentosin CHF 11S or CHF 202 Audi/Volkswagen Reference number: A0E 041 020 10 This one says "Synthetic" although writes in Numbers: G002000 https://www.worldcarparts.co.uk/synthetic-green-power-steering-hydraulic-fluid-febi-bilstein-06161 How about this? https://www.ebay.com/itm/323485763431 Any suggestions?

Ha,ha yes we have many of them in various types.