D.FYLAKTOS

I envy those guys which have OBD2 port, connect a laptop and the co-driver can read almost anything on live data as the car rolling. I don't know if this can be done in a Felicia with old OBD port and i think devices like ScanGaugeII work with OBD2 only. As for the record: I asked from another programmer to check my car for the cold start high fuel consumption, he suggest me to buy a Wideband Air Fuel Ratio (AFR) gauge with his own Sensor, then drill the exhaust screw the new sensor and then to take the car to him to take measures, i said ''so i will have 2 Lambda sensors?" ,he said yes till he see if the exhaust fumes are OK and then maybe make the car work with the new Lambda and abolish the factory one. I told him that is an expensive job with a huge risk, if that won't work so what's the whole mess for? I haven't a supercar do add such an equipment and if the combination won't work then what's the reason to have such a gauge to my dashboard? This isn't a ''Need for Speed" car so i rejected the whole idea and fortunately i was right.

I have a relative anxiety if i will see something on the bottom of the reservoir.

Unfortunately i haven't that cup any more. When i pump the rest of the oil with the syringe i will keep it in a plastic bottle for further inspection.Maybe in the bottom of the reservoir the rest of the oil would be different but yes you are right does not look bad at first sight.

I was very disappointed when the 3 scanning tools found nothing. Unfortunately i haven't a friend with some kind of programme to watch the live data from the cold start till the car get warm to check for anything ''suspicious''. To be honest i was expecting from the ''Ecu-chipper'' to find it first, if i was not keeping detailed service notes and had not thinking for many nights the problem will existed till now, maybe not so obvious but there would be. For sure he made a cold start, why he didn't spotted to his laptop that the fuel consumption those crucial first minutes was higher than normal?

I took a sample of my Hydraulic Oil from the surface of the reservoir, it's not too dark (the back is shadow from my hand) but it isn't Green as the original. Nevertheless the days of it are numbered.

This is much better than the previous (disgrace) one. @nta16 : Many times told me ''it's the coolant sensor fault" (although the scanner tool didn't show anything) but no one thought to measure the coolant strength. If someone have done it and said ''hey it's too thick, this is for Siberia" would save me from many troubles. The most annoying thing here is from some repair-shop owners which saying ''Oh, your car is Chipped? Go, put the original and bring it back to check it" which in their mind is this task so easy as like ''take this aftermarket gasoline cap out and put the original".

\ Note: The above fuel consumption was in City traffic (mainly 1st-2nd gear and only for few seconds the 3rd) including the recently snow days with low temperatures. The "new" coolant plus the Amsoil additive helped me the most plus the ECU-chip update, the cold starts now have nothing to do with the previous ones. Many times other people criticise me for keeping detailed service notes but deep inside me i know that i am right. Those notes helped me to understand the nature of the problem and surprisingly no mechanic tested the coolant, everyone was watching the blue colour on the expanding reservoir and they were saying ''Hey, you are Ok, you have enough fluid" but no one spend 1 minute make a simple test. Another photo from that trip, it was very difficult to take good snapshots of fuel consumption with the right hand but you can see the needle which barely touches the 100 Km. The road was straight, even on slightly downhills the result can change dramatically but there is no meaning from me for such photos.

The previous coolant was the worst i have ever put in my car. As i have said in older posts the next day that i have started to ''dilute" it the TC-6 started to shown less Instant fuel consumption at cold start in the morning. The ECU-update was done 2 months after this trip. I have made a reset after the ''dilution'' process finished so since everything was fine the TC-6 started to shown results that brought the smile back to my face. I wrote at 13nth of January: This is a photo few minutes ago, yes i know it's a crappy but i was in a hurry. Fuel consumption 9,3 lt for 100,7 Km in the odometer.

I made the first cold start at Athens, drove for 5 Km till i reach the national road, i made a stop after 80 Km for coffee and rest, then a ''cold" start for another 7Οkm of mountain road till i reach my destination. The next day a cold start and 15 Km to a city near buy and return, another day the same but for other city. Final day a cold start from my village, 70 Km mountain road, a stop for coffee and rest and another ''cold" start for 80 Km on national road till i reach the boundaries of the municipality of Athens and 5 Km till home. The return was with light rain, i have some photos from TC-6 in Instant fuel consumption in national road from both days. Yes it did, based on TC-6, the behaviour of the car at first Km, the rise of the temperature, the smell of the fumes. No all these are gone.

Autumn, sun without air and around 10-13 'C Keep in mind was with previous too thick coolant which means for every cold start i was spending more fuel as it must. The trip was from Athens to my island, few visits in a city close by and return to Athens. City traffic in Athens, national road, mountain road, country roads inside a city, mountain road, national road, traffic back in Athens.

https://www.autoscout24.com/lst/skoda/felicia?sort=standard&desc=0&ustate=N%2CU&size=20&page=1&atype=C& https://www.newsnow.co.uk/classifieds/cars-vans-for-sale/skoda-felicia

I forgot to say that the 444 kilometres were ''mixed" which means 5% was City traffic and the rest was half national road (80-120 Km per hour speed) and mountain route with curbs (many times 2nth and 3rd gear till 5000-5500 rpm). Deep inside me i am optimist that in the new trip the things would be much better, i dare to say much better than ever. The instant fuel consumption can play many tricks especially if the road is slightly downhill and you can maintain the same speed with less petal pressing or for few seconds with not press it at all, i have some photos to prove it so i pay attention now to the Total consumption (with the Greek letter Σ on the TC-6 menu) when it's time for a trip. Once again i would like to thank you for your help. ☺️

What the factory mirror sees and what the rear camera on a morning full of moisture. I wish i had installed that earlier, oh how much i envy those guys with their large Lcd screen on their dashboard right from the factory.

Here is a photo of my average fuel consumption after a 444 kilometres trip few months back, now things are much better because i have made a correction to my coolant plus an additive and i hope due to the Easter vacations i will manage to do another trip to see the difference. In city traffic things are much better than before, i almost finished another test and i will post some photos.

No matter how hard i try i will not get rid of the old Mineral oil from my car to add the Synthetic but if i do it i will have to live with the fear that maybe something will get wrong Every foam bubble or noise will ring a bell to my mind and i don't want to live like this. Even if i go to a repair-shop and manage to do thing perfectly still there is no guarantee that my Felicia would like the new oil. I haven't met here in this forum nor in a Greek forum a Felicia owner who did this so i don't want to be the first who will try it. If i start having a leak for example the situation can easily become a nightmare (repair-shop, money for parts and the mechanic, many days without a car, extra money for taxi to work etc) so i have to stay on the Safe sight. The 2 bottles arrived in the Courier station, i will wait few days for the weather to get warmer and i will ''get my hand dirty'' for another time.

As i saw the inside of the reservoir isn't with sensors or metal screen to snag or something that need extra caution as a MAF sensor. Many times the compressed air is adjustable so there is no need to be in full open, from distance few pressings from the one end to pass air through the other will be enough. I will use microfibre clothes or in worst case a quality college t-shirt that i don't need any more. It's a risk that i can not take, i have an old car and there is no a Felicia driver here in Greece to consult me that he did the same with Synthetic and after a year at least everything is fine etc. I don't want to make my Trusty as a ''test animal". If i use synthetic and something goes wrong i will pay the price and i don't want it because will cost me a lot of money, take me out from the family budget plus that even if i try hard there is no chance to make a completely flush on the system working alone on an alley. Even if i let my car in a repair-shop i am not sure that will try as much as they can to remove the Mineral oil for 100% from the system. The oil that i have now is from 1999, any change with a fresh brand name oil will do nothing more than good. This isn't a coolant sensor or a radiator switch that i can change ASAP if something goes wrong, i have no access to the whole steering wheel mechanism so i won't do this step ahead.

I can not reconcile with the idea of what i will be out of my calculations in the kilometers i have traveled to calculate the intervals of engine oil-transmission change, for fuel consumption etc. I do not want to hold a pocket computer every time and say "the odometer says A but in reality are B so the next oil change must be done at D and not at C", this will confuse me, will distract me and make me nervous. I keep detailed service notes and i want to correspond in ''real'' kilometers, the 3,1% error looks to much to my eyes.

Do not worry, i read and understand far more than i can write. Compressed air can be found in local gas-stations and repair-shops but this means i had to abandon my tools etc beside the car (keep in mind that i work alone in the side of the road) for a while so this isn't wise. My first thought is to remove as much oil as a can with a syringe and a small piece of tube as an extension, then take the resevoir in my hands and: 1) use rag and with a thin stick to swirl it to collect as much as remaining oil it can, then a new clean rag or 2) use rag and with a thin stick to swirl it to collect as much as remaining oil it can and then use a cleaner spray or isopropyl alcohol with another clean rag to make the inside or the reservoir as much clean as i can. Then i will start the oil replacement procedure (fill new, move the streering wheel from lock to lock, collect the old in a bottle, add some new, move the steering wheel from left to right etc till i see new oil to run inside the plastic bottle). I will try previous night to park my car in a quiet alley so next day i can work with quietness and safely.

Febi Bilstein 06162 Mineral. I saw a video where a guy used Carburettor spray to clean the remains of the old hydraulic oil from the reservoir but i hesitate to do the same.

Mineral oil had when i bought it and all these years once i added some. Have you changed yours? The new order (2 bottles of Febi Bilstein) is on it's way, next week if the weather permits it i will make the change by myself. Today after a small route of few kilometers the level was between Min and Max.

They do although the local dealer does not promote them properly so everyone here thinks that are mainly for old British classic cars. https://www.skroutz.gr/c/1228/Ladia-Autokinhtou/m/22964/Millers-Oils.html https://farlekas-parts.gr/λαδια-τρακτερ-millers-oils/ As for Febi Bilstein 06162 tomorrow i will give a call to the dealer and i will check my car's hydraulic oil level (we had snow for 2 days and i couldn't).

That is the proper procedure. Febi Bilstein 06162 (mineral) can be found here in Greece: https://www.todos.gr/febi-bilstein-ydrayl-ladi-06162#product-related https://megaparts.gr/Part/FEBI-LADI-YDRAYLIKOY-SYST-ANARTISIS-PR-06162/e10106162 According to FUCHS advisor for my car i can use engine oil SAE 0W-30 or 5W-30 or 0W-40 or 5W-40 😵 but i have never heard a Greek driver to use it in his Felicia or a mechanic to suggest it or i have never read it in a Skoda forum.

Hydraulic oil for central hydraulic system, power steering and height adjustment https://partsfinder.bilsteingroup.com/el/search/make/Škoda/model/Felicia 1994 - 2001/vehicle/1.3 MPI - 50 kW | 68 hp/article-group/Χημικά προιόντα?sortby=rel&sortdir=asc&f=15 For my car they suggest Febi and SWAG 46161 as ''new edition" BUT also the Febi and SWAG 06161 as ''old edition" Isn't this a mess? 😲 Another car owner (different brand) had the same problem with me Thread: Pentosin Flush (7.1 Discontinued) - Is Febi Bilstein 06162 MIXABLE with 7.1? https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?2126419-Pentosin-Flush-(7-1-Discontinued)-Is-Febi-Bilstein-06162-MIXABLE-with-7-1 Thus, I need an hydraulic fluid that is fully compatible and mixable with the discontinued 7.1, and that can be repeatedly mixed during the partial flush exercise described above. This Febi Bilstein 06162 product ..... may indeed be it, but I want to be sure it is MIXABLE before proceeding. Do any of you know if the Febi Bilstein 06162 product is - over and above being a replacement for 7.1 - also compatible and mixable with the old 7.1? Take a look at one of his posts: https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?2126419-Pentosin-Flush-(7-1-Discontinued)-Is-Febi-Bilstein-06162-MIXABLE-with-7-1&p=27900911#post27900911 In the meantime, I sent an email to the Managing Director of Febi's North American operations (his contact info was on their site), and append the correspondence below for the future reference of the group. Answer: febi 06162 is absolutely compatible with CHF 7.1 from Pentosin. It can be mixed with CHF 7.1 or can replace it in all applications. I think we have a winner! ✔️ Yes that's why they invented terms as ''synthetic technology" or ''synthesised" or ''technosynthese" or ''synthetic blend" etc. The manufactures oil is in my car's system from 1999 and we have 2022, i think even if i put the same or replace it with another similar oil will do only good.

What performance properties are important? To appreciate the differences in hydraulic oils, it helps to understand what performance properties are important. Hydraulic oil needs to last a long time (meaning extended oxidation life) and protect equipment by providing anti-wear properties while preventing rust and corrosion. Most hydraulic oils are designed to have good demulsibility properties. This means they separate water quickly so it can be drained from the sump, which is important because water doesn’t lubricate as well as oil. Also, hydraulic oils should resist varnish formation, which can result in sticking servovalves. The fluid’s ability to release air quickly is important so pumps are protected from cavitation, where air in the oil is released and then redissolved, generating heat that can damage pumps. What goes into hydraulic oil and how can formulations vary? A typical non-viscosity modified hydraulic oil will be formulated with 99% base oil and 1% additive. There are a number of high-quality base oils available today. There also are some lower quality, low-cost base oils that find their way into hydraulic oil formulations. These base oils can cause significant performance problems, including emulsification of water, which can increase pump wear, corrosion, and poor filtration. Fluids formulated with poor base oils also may have a shorter effective life, resulting in more frequent oil drains. It is important for end users to ask their lubricant suppliers about the base oil in their fluid and its impact on performance properties such as oxidation life, water separation, filtration, and anti-wear. https://www.powermotiontech.com/technologies/hydraulic-fluids/article/21880514/are-all-mineralbased-hydraulic-oils-the-same Audi forums say they stopped using mineral years ago, and it been replaced with Synthetic under the same part number. Others say G004000 M2 is just a replacement part number for G002000. Some say the synthetic is backward compatible and can be mixed with the mineral, the label on the bottle says the opposite. ______________ Ignore the quoted warning! It has been valid at the time of manufacture, but has become obsolete since. G 002 000 has been phased out and been superseded by G 004 000, which I think is semi-synthetic/synthetic anyway. Febi 06161 is a correct fluid, but if you can't get that, any other fluid from a reputable manufacturer that claims to meet the G 002 000 and G 004 000 specs should be good. I personally used Febi 06161 in my car that has the same G 002 000 warning label on it, and no problem so far. https://www.clubtouareg.com/threads/use-only-mineral-hydraulic-fluid-g002000.292052/ Looks like this can replace the Pentosin CHF 7.1 Description This is a green mineral based hydraulic fluid equivalent to G-002-000 and G-004-000-M2. If in doubt, please check in your vehicle handbook for specification requirements before use.

In Felicia the reservoir is high and behind the front grill beside the water reservoir for the wind shield ejectors, away from exhaust manifold and no leak is visible around it or in the hoses. The company's pdf does not leave an option for a completely flush and replace with a synthetic as CHF 11S or other brand. CHF 11S covers the VW TL 52 146 (G 002 000) of the CHF 7.1. I have a can with CHF 7.1 amount on it but i can not compromise with that direction ''this Mineral or nothing", it's not brake fluid that is forbidden to use DOT 5 if the manufacturer says DOT 4 or DOT 5.1 I know that you are not a mechanic, GR is not USA so we don't sue or blame someone if something goes wrong by a decision of us. 😉