D.FYLAKTOS

@Pete_Ex-Wino : Thank you buddy! 🍺

Gentlemen, yesterday i have found that the plug of the coolant sensor had a problem, 2 cables were inclined, one had a spot were the copper was visible and the other one was a little bit loose. I want to change that 4 pin plug but the problem is that i don't know the code and some sell it with the coolant sensor but i already have 2 so i don't need another one. https://www.dhgate.com/product/for-vw-engine-water-coolant-temperature-sensor/523007034.html https://www.amazon.com/Connector-Water-Temperature-Sensor-Volkswagen/dp/B011AR52U4 http://www.autolumination.com/wiring-electrical-connectors/automotive-engine-chassis-sockets-wiring-connectors-harnesses-plugs/vw-seat-audi-357-919-501-coolant-fan-radiator-pigtail-connector.htm https://www.ebay.ie/itm/1x-Connector-4-way-for-Audi-Temperature-Sensor-A-C-357-919-501-A-/261942358352 https://www.ebay.com/itm/For-VW-Engine-Water-Coolant-Temperature-Sensor-Switch-357-919-501A-Plug-4-Pin-/133587324135?_ul=IL Does any one knows the code for this part?

I have exactly the same issue for months now, it's not last night. My night cold start (at the parking garage) is far more different that the morning/noon cold start. https://i.imgur.com/6liowjL.mp4 This was few months ago and nothing changed till today. I have made a repair to the 4 cables of the coolant sensor plug (2 were bending too much, one was a naked spot plus one was a little bit loose). I can not compromise with the idea that a 1300cc car burns in city the same fuel as a Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution VIII.

Some repair-shops use pump to get the old oil out and don't touch the drain plug bolt. Some guys use a magnetic one to any any metal micro detritus but this is controversial.

There is no possibility a Felicia 1300cc that has a fuel consumption of 5.3-6.8 ltr/ 100 Km in national road and sport driving then burn in mild city driving 12-13 ltr/ 100 Km. It does not make sense for a car to want 3.5 minutes idle at 1100 rpm while 6 hours before it needs almost half a minute. These two are world phenomenon!

Till 100 Km on the odometer everything seems to go well but latter things start changing. My ''late" cold start is at night when i am leaving from work to home, the car is 5 floors below earth on a parking garage (of course the air is different than outside but the temperature is one click higher) and always is different than the cold start at morning or noon when the car is parked outside on the road (fresh air but sometimes lower temperature). So last night i have made a test, nothing else On (radio, heater etc), start the car with no revving and counting the time till the needle drops to 800 rpm which is the idle level and the temperature will rise. Here are the results, the engine went at 1100 rpm and when dropped to the idle the timer wrote: I don't think this is normal.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PkUq5mp2plc&t=314s (Italian tune-up)

The solution is to remove the Air Manifold and clean it thoroughly but i will not do it. I wonder if i spary a lot (from upper and lower position) let it soak and then start the car, i will see white smoke from the exhaust etc but this procedure won't affect even a little bit the spark plugs? After this ''petroleum storm'' will remain intact?

I bought from an e-store a feeler blade plus a coin gap tool, i want to measure the gap from my spark plugs so any suspicion will let go. Still waiting for the courier to come. At cold start in the morning or at noon the needle rises normally and stays a little bit at 1100 rpm returning to 800 rpm At night inside the parking lot refuses to let the 1100 rpm for few minutes and then returns to 800 rpm. Why at night only? I don't know and this makes me nervous.

https://www.denso-am.co.uk/e-catalogue/ K16TT and K16PR-U are Nickel IK16TT is Iridium (which means NO WAY) No Copper spark plugs by Denso for me.

Then i will need a new gasket plus a reset from a VAG-Com plus at least 50Km route so the ECU will read the new data then again a visit to mechanic for another scanning. It's too much job for me. When the weather gets warmer i have the thought to spray from both sides (vacuum hoses) plus from a full open throttle inside the manifold and let it soak enough before i start the car (far away from house due to the white smoke).

If you do it by yourself yes a little bit with a lifting jack or other way, you need some space to reach the oil drain plug. Take the new oil filter, apply some oil on his gasket and then screw it ,put some oil from above and start the car for 4-5 seconds so it will soak some inside, then fill till the stick shows the level reached the Max (total will take about 4,3 till 4,5 litres)

Yes but year after year, cleaning after cleaning something will have been remain at the bottom of the manifold? Doesn't restrict a little bit the flow of the air? And if all of that dirt (with the spray) is driven at the combustion chamber will be completely burned or can make things worst?

Skoda manual says Champion RC89PYC, the same is on Haynes manual that's why i hesitate to make any change (the NGK didn't work, some Iridium didn't work) but nor me or the mechanic measure the gap ever. Just plug and play and there is a rumour that those which have that protective cap are already been adjusted from the factory.

Every time you open the throttle for cleaning you can see that some dirt is on the disk so after 22 years some kind of dirt wouldn't be inside that manifold?

It's a risk that i can not take it by myself, i have to ask the programmer, i don't want to make experiments with sparks plugs. As for the change of brand it's a mess, here is an example from an Uk store: https://www.sparkplugs.co.uk/compatible-parts/spark-glow-ignition/spark-plug-100151?ktype=11193&vtype=P and as for cross-reference then it's a huge mess: https://www.sparkplug-crossreference.com/convert/CHAMP_PN/RC89PYC 😲

The parts e-shops give those Champion as an option and to be honest i forgot to ask the programmer if i need a different type of spark plugs. I have the SKODA FELICIA II (6U1) 1.3 with AMH motor code. I still wonder.

https://www.ebay.it/itm/403354612195?hash=item5de9cef1e3:g:kHAAAOSwTWRhvDwL https://www.amazon.it/Sea-Foam-Motor-Tune-confezione/dp/B004NPUR38/ref=sr_1_1?__mk_it_IT=ÅMÅŽÕÑ&crid=3PZND70WZLSOR&keywords=Sea+Foam+motor+tune&qid=1644152194&sprefix=sea+foam+motor+tune%2Caps%2C204&sr=8-1 https://www.ebay.com/b/Sea-Foam-Automotive-Fuel-Additives-Treatments/179492/bn_7114964332 https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/15032166538 https://www.amazon.co.uk/s?k=sea+foam+motor+tune&i=automotive&crid=9SEKB2DRHNM1&sprefix=sea+foam+motor+tune%2Cautomotive%2C158&ref=nb_sb_noss https://www.amazon.co.uk/Motor-Treatment/dp/B00Y4TL95I/ref=sr_1_23?crid=9SEKB2DRHNM1&keywords=sea+foam+motor+tune&qid=1644152077&s=automotive&sprefix=sea+foam+motor+tune%2Cautomotive%2C158&sr=1-23 😉

Skoda gives the Champion RC89PYC as ''factory spark plugs" for Felicia. An NGK Copper never worked for me, i have a specific thread for those. https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/491830-ngk-bkur5et-10-your-opinion-about-them/ No LPG.

I had a major problem with those spark plugs, take look https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/491830-ngk-bkur5et-10-your-opinion-about-them/ The 1st and the 2nd method are for professionals, don't try it by yourself The look of your piston's head match to those which Chris Fix has uploaded for Seafoam use. As i read you have neglected your car too much in some sectors and i wonder how you manage to drive in such a bad situation.

The tube socket (left and right) is vacuum but since they are at the bottom i wonder if we can use a long hose (like those on the A/C cleaning spray) to make the content of the spray to travel more inside the manifold. Here is an example:

We can clean the throttle body with spray (if we don't want to remove it) and the MAP sensor but can we go deeper with a spray? That hose entry on the bottom for what reason is? Can we spray there too? Has everyone ever use such ''foam" products? Or you think that the throttle cleaning is enough?

A question about the gap of spark plugs, i use Champion RC89PYC and supposed to have an 0.8mm gap Let's say it's wrong for example 0,9 or 1mm, can that cause any kind of problems at cold start but not after the car gets heated after few minutes? A small wrong gap like this is noticeable while driving at higher rpm or not?

''easy solution'' is the key word for those mechanics, the same phenomenon is with those which repair refrigerator ''let's change the board, the motor'' etc without to search for the cause. The most funny excuse was ''it's a old car, the engine has lot of tolerance that's why you have such a high fuel consumption in the morning'', the real reason was he didn't want to dedicate some time, he prefers better the ''buy new plug and play item-install it-pay me'' system.

For few years i had one on the driver column and some believed was for my turbo but one day cause me major problem with the brake pedal returning from a trip and guess what? the mechanic told me that the Vacuum servo has a problem and must be prepared for huge expenses but i had my doubts, i removed the gauge and the pipe which fed it from the fuel pressure regulator, i sealed the exit and yes, the problem vanished at once! The ECU-chip programmers advertise themselves that will ''liberate'' the car from such restrictions but many times they overdo it.