D.FYLAKTOS

Unfortunately, the charts given by the companies do not help you to choose a spark plug for exampe 1 scale higher or lower. It is not like the tires that show the difference in features immediately. For example, NGK gives only 2 spark plugs for my car, but the English dealership is different from the Greek one at iridium. https://www.ngkpartfinder.co.uk/catalogues/cars/search/spark-plugs/SKODA/FELICIA/2001/ https://www.ngkntk.com/gr/anazitisi-proionton/productfinder/category/PKW-ZK_BENZINER/product/13399/?cHash=2bc3c3884d933655f48a9d6938a16258 So if the small difference in the gap isn't the ''guilty'' then who's next to blame? Someone must fault!

Felicia and Siemens ECU idle problem? Here i am! https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/499328-how-much-time-do-you-warm-up-your-felicia/page/15/#elControls_5632349_menu https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/499328-how-much-time-do-you-warm-up-your-felicia/page/16/?tab=comments#elControls_5633057_menu

These are the measurements of 4 Champion platinum sprak plugs with 10.000 Km of use: 0,93 mm 0,889 mm 0,88 mm 0,889 mm The gap as new should be o,8 mm so are these numbers normal or not?

Those Champion golden boys give to the European customer this option while searching for spark plugs for his car https://www.championautoparts.com/Products/Spark-Plugs.html Guess what? NO Skoda option so how in the heck the customer will find them? Yes lot of infos and blah-blah but where is the guide for Skoda customers you #@$£¥rs? https://www.championautoparts.eu/support/catalogues.html I am very angry, i will start looking for NGK this time.

Champion platinum were made at early 80's. Now i doubt if they are ok for my "tuned" Felicia. I made a quick measure to an older set of Champion, guess what? ALL of them had wrong gap and none had the proper 0,8mm so the theory that "the gap is adjusted by the company" is wrong! More in a next post, i am on the smartphone now and i don't have time.

Here are 2 snapshots from last night cold start. Took 3:35 minutes, this is not normal !

Due to Covid restrictions plus 2 times Quarantine the car works for 2,5 years worst than a taxi because even a taxi can travel in a boulevard for 4th gear for some time. I work mainly 1st-2nd and a little bit the 3rd gear only for few seconds and all these 2 years i had the chance to make a trip only one time and even when the coolant was wrong i had a very good fuel consumption. The last days i read articles about Hot and Cold spark plugs and i see video where mechanics suggest one level to the Hot spark plugs for car which work mainly on city traffic. As for the coolant sensors i have tested 3 totally and the effect was the same, the 2nd cold start lasts 3:40-3:45 minutes which is absolutely unacceptable.

Another night cold-start test, the result? DISASTER! 3,45 minutes from the start and 1100 rpm till the needle drops to 800. I have it on video, tomorrow i will post some photos. So it's not the coolant sensor nor the cables and the fuel consumption was 11,96 ltr / 100 km. I have to find the guilty for this terrible situation and now i am focused on spark-plugs, maybe it's time for a change and let the good old RC89PYC platinum aside....

Ordered a new from Aliexpress, will take a month to come. The factory cables repaired, in few hours at night cold start will see if these were the "guilty".

TC-6 has one fuel sensor and another one on the rpm gauge. He uses the factory floater sensor. It reads rpm and the fuel that sprayed and then makes calculations. I can see the Instant fuel consumption, the Average, the Total, the Remaining kilometres. TC-6 is not a scanner tool,can not adjust anything or interfere to correct anytging, it's just reads and shows to you. The coolant sensors were based the VW specifications, no overhearing problems, also the thermostat works fine. The "guilty" is something that has the power to make the ECU to make the fuel mixture rich at low-middle rpm but to perform very good at higher rpm (mountain road, national road).

I returned from the electrician at 9:45, parked my car and 13:30 i start it to go to work and guess what? The needle was on 1100 rpm for few minutes before drops to 800 ( i was on the move, i didn't use the timer). The car was not cooled down, the 2nd cool start of the day is always like this, i have changed the coolant sensor yesterday with a spare that i had so it's not his fault. The fuel consumption now is 12,2 ltr/ 100 km which is unexeptable for this car.

@Pete_Ex-Wino : Thank you buddy! 🍺

Gentlemen, yesterday i have found that the plug of the coolant sensor had a problem, 2 cables were inclined, one had a spot were the copper was visible and the other one was a little bit loose. I want to change that 4 pin plug but the problem is that i don't know the code and some sell it with the coolant sensor but i already have 2 so i don't need another one. https://www.dhgate.com/product/for-vw-engine-water-coolant-temperature-sensor/523007034.html https://www.amazon.com/Connector-Water-Temperature-Sensor-Volkswagen/dp/B011AR52U4 http://www.autolumination.com/wiring-electrical-connectors/automotive-engine-chassis-sockets-wiring-connectors-harnesses-plugs/vw-seat-audi-357-919-501-coolant-fan-radiator-pigtail-connector.htm https://www.ebay.ie/itm/1x-Connector-4-way-for-Audi-Temperature-Sensor-A-C-357-919-501-A-/261942358352 https://www.ebay.com/itm/For-VW-Engine-Water-Coolant-Temperature-Sensor-Switch-357-919-501A-Plug-4-Pin-/133587324135?_ul=IL Does any one knows the code for this part?

I have exactly the same issue for months now, it's not last night. My night cold start (at the parking garage) is far more different that the morning/noon cold start. https://i.imgur.com/6liowjL.mp4 This was few months ago and nothing changed till today. I have made a repair to the 4 cables of the coolant sensor plug (2 were bending too much, one was a naked spot plus one was a little bit loose). I can not compromise with the idea that a 1300cc car burns in city the same fuel as a Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution VIII.

Some repair-shops use pump to get the old oil out and don't touch the drain plug bolt. Some guys use a magnetic one to any any metal micro detritus but this is controversial.

There is no possibility a Felicia 1300cc that has a fuel consumption of 5.3-6.8 ltr/ 100 Km in national road and sport driving then burn in mild city driving 12-13 ltr/ 100 Km. It does not make sense for a car to want 3.5 minutes idle at 1100 rpm while 6 hours before it needs almost half a minute. These two are world phenomenon!

Till 100 Km on the odometer everything seems to go well but latter things start changing. My ''late" cold start is at night when i am leaving from work to home, the car is 5 floors below earth on a parking garage (of course the air is different than outside but the temperature is one click higher) and always is different than the cold start at morning or noon when the car is parked outside on the road (fresh air but sometimes lower temperature). So last night i have made a test, nothing else On (radio, heater etc), start the car with no revving and counting the time till the needle drops to 800 rpm which is the idle level and the temperature will rise. Here are the results, the engine went at 1100 rpm and when dropped to the idle the timer wrote: I don't think this is normal.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PkUq5mp2plc&t=314s (Italian tune-up)

The solution is to remove the Air Manifold and clean it thoroughly but i will not do it. I wonder if i spary a lot (from upper and lower position) let it soak and then start the car, i will see white smoke from the exhaust etc but this procedure won't affect even a little bit the spark plugs? After this ''petroleum storm'' will remain intact?

I bought from an e-store a feeler blade plus a coin gap tool, i want to measure the gap from my spark plugs so any suspicion will let go. Still waiting for the courier to come. At cold start in the morning or at noon the needle rises normally and stays a little bit at 1100 rpm returning to 800 rpm At night inside the parking lot refuses to let the 1100 rpm for few minutes and then returns to 800 rpm. Why at night only? I don't know and this makes me nervous.

https://www.denso-am.co.uk/e-catalogue/ K16TT and K16PR-U are Nickel IK16TT is Iridium (which means NO WAY) No Copper spark plugs by Denso for me.

Then i will need a new gasket plus a reset from a VAG-Com plus at least 50Km route so the ECU will read the new data then again a visit to mechanic for another scanning. It's too much job for me. When the weather gets warmer i have the thought to spray from both sides (vacuum hoses) plus from a full open throttle inside the manifold and let it soak enough before i start the car (far away from house due to the white smoke).

If you do it by yourself yes a little bit with a lifting jack or other way, you need some space to reach the oil drain plug. Take the new oil filter, apply some oil on his gasket and then screw it ,put some oil from above and start the car for 4-5 seconds so it will soak some inside, then fill till the stick shows the level reached the Max (total will take about 4,3 till 4,5 litres)

Yes but year after year, cleaning after cleaning something will have been remain at the bottom of the manifold? Doesn't restrict a little bit the flow of the air? And if all of that dirt (with the spray) is driven at the combustion chamber will be completely burned or can make things worst?

Skoda manual says Champion RC89PYC, the same is on Haynes manual that's why i hesitate to make any change (the NGK didn't work, some Iridium didn't work) but nor me or the mechanic measure the gap ever. Just plug and play and there is a rumour that those which have that protective cap are already been adjusted from the factory.