D.FYLAKTOS

Whops! It's the Crank sensor I have found an older photo, it's beside the gear box. Crankshaft Position Sensor 047907319 A

What? And you telling me this NOW? You should told me from the begging of the topic! Few hour ago i returned from a ''dirty" task, i used spray to clean the throttle and another spray for the air intake manifold. I had a problem after but some good results later after a road test on mountain road, stay tuned my fellow Felicians!

I never believed that this oil is for life that's why few years back i start hearing noises when i was turning the car full left or right when i was moving inside the parking garage.I said that to a mechanic and told me not to worry, this is normal due to the age of the car and since my steering racks were OK no worries etc. I trust mainly my instinct thus i let the car cool down and i checked the reservoir of the Hydraulic oil, the level was too low! I had a Pentosin CHF 7.1 canister and i added a quantity and guess what? The noises disappeared. Then i said ''it's time for flush and new oil" that's why i started the searching and i opened this topic too. I can feel when i turn the steering wheel from lock to lock when i am trying to park the car, it's one click easier than before. This would be my next ''project", i will take some pics then spray, clean and after few days new photos from the same camera from the same spot. I don't like dirty engine bay, i think the oil smell will pass from the vents to the cabin especially those hot summer days.

Today i removed my crankshaft sensor, for 22 years i haven't touch it except one time that i have removed the plug to spray the pins. I had a problem the very next day when the car turned-off itself and told me that maybe the ECU kept it as a fault so it's wise to never mess with it again because it needs to be tighten in specific Nm torque etc. Today i decide to remove the screw so i removed both battery poles first, i noticed that there was no washer, the pins were OK but the main sensor was dirty, had some spots like rust.I cleaned gently the sensor and i put it back with just a simple wrench (i have not a Torque wrench) but i noticed that beneath the Knock sensor the area was full of oxidation. The spot that you see is from my finger because i touch it, so can i do anything about it? I didn't want to spray or do anything before i consulted you. Have you seen it in your car? Should i let it as is or not?

The steering wheel is one click better on suddenly turns due to the new hydraulic oil plus i grab the chance and told to the mechanic to work on the gear shift joint so shifting is one click better too. As for the leaking from the gasket when the weather gets warmer i will use a degrease spray to clean the area and i will wipe it with a clean rag, then after few days i will make an inspection for any leak signs.

1st time after a traffic light in a crossroad i had to turn, i was first and after few meters the car turned-off, the others stopped behind me pushing horns etc, the car couldn't start, the green light opened for the others and as you can imagine i caused a mess in three lines. 2nd time i was in an uphill with second gear and middle to high rpm and the car turned-off suddenly, immediately pushed the brake pedal and turned the alarm, behind me were other cars which started to horn, i roll down the window making hand signals ''go-go" and everybody slander at me because they thought that i stopped (in the worst position) in purpose. 3rd time i was parked on the side of the road, turn the car on right flash steering wheel full right first gear and after one meter the car turned-off. Everybody stopped in a line and expected from me to go, i couldn't so they started to horn and i could do anything than come out and make them a sign that the car is ''out" and must wait. That was THE END of Denso iridium and since 2003 i didn't want even to hear about those spark plugs. I am not young any more and i have a family, i winter i use the small motorcycle for shopping at down-town, i don't like the ''heavy" dress for rain etc and i cannot go to my job wet or with a cold or injured. The ''adventure years" with motorcycles are over for me, now i am thinking my family-personal health-few years till pension. Yesterday night after starting the car waited 15 second and started driving, uphill for 3 floor below earth, exit the garage, one block, turn, few meters, traffic light and then the idle was ready to drop to 800 rpm. My Felicia has a caprice, does not like the 2nd cold start of the day and on the other hand i don't want to wait 3:45 to get warmed-up.

Many years back i had a serious problem with Denso iridium, was before the internet-forum era and i bought what the seller told me without knowing the risk. I don't remember their code but i think that the seller gave me wrong reference that's why 2 times the car turned off itself while i was driving, i was one step away from a crash! I use iridium spark plug in an old motorcycle 30+ years old and works amazing.

I am trying to figure out about NGK spark plugs https://www.ngkpartfinder.co.uk/catalogues/cars/search/spark-plugs/SKODA/FELICIA/2001/ https://www.ngkntk.com/gr/anazitisi-proionton/productfinder/category/PKW-ZK_BENZINER/product/13399/?cHash=2bc3c3884d933655f48a9d6938a16258 They disagree for iridium and agree to platinum but i don't want the BKUR5ET-10 again, so what option do i have with NGK brand? On the other hand i changed the way of driving from night cold start to the 1st traffic light, i hate to wait 3:44 inside the parking garage till the idle drops to 800 rpm so i wait only 20 seconds and then start driving normally.

I will make a thoroughly use of cleaning spray on the air intake manifold and then (when the car is cold) i will inspect the gap of my spark plugs or i will install new set after i check their gap with the feeler blade.

I asked him and said no need for a new gasket, he insisted that it was just a tighten issue and case closed. When i found time i will clean that part of engine to check for signs of new leak, only then i will feel reassured.

Few minutes ago the Hydraulic Oil change finished, the old oil removed, a half of bottle from the new was used to ''flush" any remains from the old and then a new oil added. No leaks visible from the steering wheel system but as the car was on the garage lift for inspection the mechanic told me that i have to buy a new block gasket because noticed few drops of engine oil, he said it will tighten the bolts but in the future it's best to buy a new. Also i will need a new gear-shift joint because the stock after all these years has a tolerance, wheel bearings and steering racks are OK. I don't know if the feeling on the steering wheel would be better with the fresh oil but i feel more reassured than before.

I use a Coin, i have a feeler blade but the Coin is more easy to use.

Me neither, i opened a thread for them. 0,25 in and 0,20 out. Yes, i bought it at 2000, no ABS and airbags. I have DIS. I spray the coil pack each time i change the spark plugs. Tonight the fuel consumption was 11,6 ltr which means veeeeeery little better...

@danilob so it's not my spark plugs fault? In the link from your thread i noticed the charcoal valve which is inside the engine bay, is it wise to change it or not? https://jmjm.cz/detailwm.php?791-simos/sani/045 Maybe the 3:44 idle issue it's an ECU problem that can be solved after a visit to another programmer?

Unfortunately, the charts given by the companies do not help you to choose a spark plug for exampe 1 scale higher or lower. It is not like the tires that show the difference in features immediately. For example, NGK gives only 2 spark plugs for my car, but the English dealership is different from the Greek one at iridium. https://www.ngkpartfinder.co.uk/catalogues/cars/search/spark-plugs/SKODA/FELICIA/2001/ https://www.ngkntk.com/gr/anazitisi-proionton/productfinder/category/PKW-ZK_BENZINER/product/13399/?cHash=2bc3c3884d933655f48a9d6938a16258 So if the small difference in the gap isn't the ''guilty'' then who's next to blame? Someone must fault!

Felicia and Siemens ECU idle problem? Here i am! https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/499328-how-much-time-do-you-warm-up-your-felicia/page/15/#elControls_5632349_menu https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/499328-how-much-time-do-you-warm-up-your-felicia/page/16/?tab=comments#elControls_5633057_menu

These are the measurements of 4 Champion platinum sprak plugs with 10.000 Km of use: 0,93 mm 0,889 mm 0,88 mm 0,889 mm The gap as new should be o,8 mm so are these numbers normal or not?

Those Champion golden boys give to the European customer this option while searching for spark plugs for his car https://www.championautoparts.com/Products/Spark-Plugs.html Guess what? NO Skoda option so how in the heck the customer will find them? Yes lot of infos and blah-blah but where is the guide for Skoda customers you #@$£¥rs? https://www.championautoparts.eu/support/catalogues.html I am very angry, i will start looking for NGK this time.

Champion platinum were made at early 80's. Now i doubt if they are ok for my "tuned" Felicia. I made a quick measure to an older set of Champion, guess what? ALL of them had wrong gap and none had the proper 0,8mm so the theory that "the gap is adjusted by the company" is wrong! More in a next post, i am on the smartphone now and i don't have time.

Here are 2 snapshots from last night cold start. Took 3:35 minutes, this is not normal !

Due to Covid restrictions plus 2 times Quarantine the car works for 2,5 years worst than a taxi because even a taxi can travel in a boulevard for 4th gear for some time. I work mainly 1st-2nd and a little bit the 3rd gear only for few seconds and all these 2 years i had the chance to make a trip only one time and even when the coolant was wrong i had a very good fuel consumption. The last days i read articles about Hot and Cold spark plugs and i see video where mechanics suggest one level to the Hot spark plugs for car which work mainly on city traffic. As for the coolant sensors i have tested 3 totally and the effect was the same, the 2nd cold start lasts 3:40-3:45 minutes which is absolutely unacceptable.

Another night cold-start test, the result? DISASTER! 3,45 minutes from the start and 1100 rpm till the needle drops to 800. I have it on video, tomorrow i will post some photos. So it's not the coolant sensor nor the cables and the fuel consumption was 11,96 ltr / 100 km. I have to find the guilty for this terrible situation and now i am focused on spark-plugs, maybe it's time for a change and let the good old RC89PYC platinum aside....

Ordered a new from Aliexpress, will take a month to come. The factory cables repaired, in few hours at night cold start will see if these were the "guilty".

TC-6 has one fuel sensor and another one on the rpm gauge. He uses the factory floater sensor. It reads rpm and the fuel that sprayed and then makes calculations. I can see the Instant fuel consumption, the Average, the Total, the Remaining kilometres. TC-6 is not a scanner tool,can not adjust anything or interfere to correct anytging, it's just reads and shows to you. The coolant sensors were based the VW specifications, no overhearing problems, also the thermostat works fine. The "guilty" is something that has the power to make the ECU to make the fuel mixture rich at low-middle rpm but to perform very good at higher rpm (mountain road, national road).

I returned from the electrician at 9:45, parked my car and 13:30 i start it to go to work and guess what? The needle was on 1100 rpm for few minutes before drops to 800 ( i was on the move, i didn't use the timer). The car was not cooled down, the 2nd cool start of the day is always like this, i have changed the coolant sensor yesterday with a spare that i had so it's not his fault. The fuel consumption now is 12,2 ltr/ 100 km which is unexeptable for this car.