D.FYLAKTOS

As a matter of fact no one ever told me to change that part as "precautionary". They only thing that mention over decades here to pay attenrion for any signs of moisture (and do anything to prevent it) inside that plastic pipes. I measure the gap, was 0,33 inch which is 0.8382 cm so OK. The fuel consumption slowly degreases, now i am 11,02 ltr which brings a light smile in my face.

These are my previous Champion, only for 3175 Km on use but the majority of them on slow city traffic.

Skoda Felicia has DIS Here is it on the engine bay The factory one is from Champion, it's ''plug and play'' with 2 allen screws and 1 clip.

I am moderately optimistic but i have not forgotten what happened with those Denso iridium many years back. I need at least a month with the new NGK ''on'' to feel reassured. My car is a little bit upgrated, those Champion were old technology and the city traffic was ''choking'' them. What worried me was that the engineer asked me if i had changed the Ignition Coil, i said no this is the factory and he told me sooner or later i will have an issue with one of the cylinders because of him. He said it's statistically sure that at least one (at the base of that plastic tube which here we call it ''Spark plug pipe'') will have a problem and the car will start tremble. Skoda 047905104 Yes mine it's 21 years on duty for about 84.800 km of use but is this true?

I change them today, first words of the mechanic "oh, these are good, now it revs better". Small test from me (house to work): Yes indeed especially when the traffic light goes green and i start plus the sound of the engine at low-medioum rpm (not enough road for high rpm moving). I kept the previous Champion, look good and i will post a photo ot them tomorrow.

I have put that chart with link before because i thought was better (no time to reduse the size on the smartphone). If things are far better in city traffic i will keep them, as for their high rpm attitude i don't dare to say anything, the test will begin very slow monitoring the fuel consumption-coolant temperature-acceleration feeling etc because i am afraid. If i had bought the BKR6 i would feel more assured but maybe the performance was the same with Champion so for what all the trouble? I am in agony....

Plus another one from Champion: https://www.championiridiumplugs.com/heat-range-conversion-chart-2 Today i notice these Heat range crossreference chart and i am thinking: I have Champion 89 (which in NGK was let's say 6,5) and now i bought the NGK BKR5 EIX11 which is (let's say) 1,5 scales Hotter, is it a significant difference? On the other hand if i had bought the BKR6EIX-11 the difference would be so small that i doubt if i could notice any difference in performance.

The set of NGK IRIDIUM BKR5EIX-11 is in my hand, i check them one by one (not counterfeit), i measured the gap and it's 1,1mm so i feel reassured about these factors. In few days i will install them and let's pray that they work fine and not as those damned Denso did.

That ''timing gap" or as i read it elsewhere ''missing teeth" or ''empty space" here in Greece the mechanics on their slang call it ''Eye" because the sensor 'sees it". I will use a tough paintbrush and a spray (not strong) to remove the light oxidation and i wipe it with a clean rag. Then i will put a new inox bolt with a washer.

Lacking accurate timing information from the crankshaft position sensor, fuel injectors won't pump gas into the engine efficiently. The engine will use more gas than it needs on short and long drives, reducing overall fuel economy. Have a mechanic inspect the sensor — as insufficient fuel economy can occur from other issues as well. https://www.yourmechanic.com/article/symptoms-of-a-bad-or-failing-crankshaft-position-sensor The rust is fragile, the spot is from my finger because i touch it. The sensor has not a gasket so it's relative easy after 22 years for some drops of water to bypass the plastic housing especially from the left side.

https://ricksfreeautorepairadvice.com/crankshaft-position-sensor-code/ This must be that rusty spot If it's the only rusty spot i can remove it gently of course. _________________________ One of the symptoms of a bad crankshaft sensor is: 7. Decreases Overall Fuel Economy Inaccurate timing information coming from the crankshaft position sensor affects fuel economy. This is because the fuel injectors will not be able to pump gas into the engine efficiently. This will result in the engine using more gas than usual, whether during long or short drives. Thus, decreasing overall fuel economy. The crankshaft position sensor has a great impact on smooth engine functionality and performance. The sensor provides a vital signal for engine calculations. Problems with the sensor quickly lead to issues that impact the drivability of the vehicle. https://roadsumo.com/crankshaft-position-sensor/ I don't think that my sensor is ''damaged'' but i wonder the rust on that spot plus the dirt on that sensor maybe helped a little bit for a bad mileage?

The only sensor that i have touch only once all these years was the Crankshaft sensor.Yesterday i have unplug it for inspection and look what i have found, check the new topic. Back i 2003 i didn't had internet and all the infos were coming from tuning magazines like this and this one . I went to a spare parts store, i gave my car's details and after searching his catalog (like a book) said a code and went to the shelf and brought me a set, i didn't had any way to check how accurate was his choice, maybe he gave me a wrong reference. Articles like this didn't exist that time but years later when the internet expanded here and many e-shops created rumours start to spread about counterfeit spark plugs, fake engine oils etc so we start to double check any purchase or avoid the ''huge discount" or ''very low price" etc stores. Unfortunately the first 3-4 years i didn't kept very detailed service notes (as i started after 2004) and i didn't wrote the code of these damned Denso so i can not check now if that employee did some sneaky. I ordered a NGK iridium from a well know store (family business), the price was the same as other stores and when the come i will measure the gap with feeler blades to be sure. I have to admit that i ''pushed a lot" the engine starter yesterday but i had no choice, you should see my face when i saw the fuel consumption dropping, i was keep telling to myself ''how can this be happening?"

Yes, they are protesting. 😜 Yesterday i went to a somehow quiet place on a small mountain, first i cleaned the throttle with Air Intake-Throttle cleaner spray, i used a clean rag and a paintbrush with synthetic tough bristles for the sides of the plate, turn the car on spray some more while revving by hand and white smoke came from the exhaust as i expected. In purpose i used another spray a MAF sensor cleaner because i thought would be less strong than the other and i didn't want to ''hurt'' the MAP and i sprayed a lot inside the air intake plus from the side (vacuum hose) and let it soak for 20 minutes. I knew that the car wouldn't start easily and yes at 5 attempts didn't start but i didn't push things more because i was afraid for the starter.Another 5 attempts and my Trusty started, no check engine light and after few seconds of very low idle things came back to normal. I choose especially a route which has 2 uphills, 2 small straight lines and 2 small downhills because i wanted to push the car to burn any remains, after the 1st cycle and when the temperature rise i start driving sport style with 2nd gear even at 5500 rpm (beginning of red line) and 3rd at 5000. I done this cycle 4 times plus i made a detour and i found another uphill but 2 times a silly driver blocked me and i couldn't accelerate as i wanted so i made an U turn and use the downhill (oh, i wish i had rear disk brakes) and then i drove 1km with light city traffic to home. Meanwhile i was glancing the TC-6 and all of that time that i was pushing the engine the fuel consumption was DROPPING! Yes, for first time since November when i made a trip the TC-6 was showing less fuel consumption, when i parked the car said 10,8 ltr fuel consumption. I was a shocking moment for me, the car was accelerating better than before, the needle was moving quicker to the higher rpm and after all these i had LESS fuel consumption.

Skoda Favorite 1994

Can i do anything for this rust or if i make an attempt will make things worst? It's something natural so must i leave it as is? On the other hand a dirty crankshaft sensor what false signs can give to the ECU?

Whops! It's the Crank sensor I have found an older photo, it's beside the gear box. Crankshaft Position Sensor 047907319 A

What? And you telling me this NOW? You should told me from the begging of the topic! Few hour ago i returned from a ''dirty" task, i used spray to clean the throttle and another spray for the air intake manifold. I had a problem after but some good results later after a road test on mountain road, stay tuned my fellow Felicians!

I never believed that this oil is for life that's why few years back i start hearing noises when i was turning the car full left or right when i was moving inside the parking garage.I said that to a mechanic and told me not to worry, this is normal due to the age of the car and since my steering racks were OK no worries etc. I trust mainly my instinct thus i let the car cool down and i checked the reservoir of the Hydraulic oil, the level was too low! I had a Pentosin CHF 7.1 canister and i added a quantity and guess what? The noises disappeared. Then i said ''it's time for flush and new oil" that's why i started the searching and i opened this topic too. I can feel when i turn the steering wheel from lock to lock when i am trying to park the car, it's one click easier than before. This would be my next ''project", i will take some pics then spray, clean and after few days new photos from the same camera from the same spot. I don't like dirty engine bay, i think the oil smell will pass from the vents to the cabin especially those hot summer days.

Today i removed my crankshaft sensor, for 22 years i haven't touch it except one time that i have removed the plug to spray the pins. I had a problem the very next day when the car turned-off itself and told me that maybe the ECU kept it as a fault so it's wise to never mess with it again because it needs to be tighten in specific Nm torque etc. Today i decide to remove the screw so i removed both battery poles first, i noticed that there was no washer, the pins were OK but the main sensor was dirty, had some spots like rust.I cleaned gently the sensor and i put it back with just a simple wrench (i have not a Torque wrench) but i noticed that beneath the Knock sensor the area was full of oxidation. The spot that you see is from my finger because i touch it, so can i do anything about it? I didn't want to spray or do anything before i consulted you. Have you seen it in your car? Should i let it as is or not?

The steering wheel is one click better on suddenly turns due to the new hydraulic oil plus i grab the chance and told to the mechanic to work on the gear shift joint so shifting is one click better too. As for the leaking from the gasket when the weather gets warmer i will use a degrease spray to clean the area and i will wipe it with a clean rag, then after few days i will make an inspection for any leak signs.

1st time after a traffic light in a crossroad i had to turn, i was first and after few meters the car turned-off, the others stopped behind me pushing horns etc, the car couldn't start, the green light opened for the others and as you can imagine i caused a mess in three lines. 2nd time i was in an uphill with second gear and middle to high rpm and the car turned-off suddenly, immediately pushed the brake pedal and turned the alarm, behind me were other cars which started to horn, i roll down the window making hand signals ''go-go" and everybody slander at me because they thought that i stopped (in the worst position) in purpose. 3rd time i was parked on the side of the road, turn the car on right flash steering wheel full right first gear and after one meter the car turned-off. Everybody stopped in a line and expected from me to go, i couldn't so they started to horn and i could do anything than come out and make them a sign that the car is ''out" and must wait. That was THE END of Denso iridium and since 2003 i didn't want even to hear about those spark plugs. I am not young any more and i have a family, i winter i use the small motorcycle for shopping at down-town, i don't like the ''heavy" dress for rain etc and i cannot go to my job wet or with a cold or injured. The ''adventure years" with motorcycles are over for me, now i am thinking my family-personal health-few years till pension. Yesterday night after starting the car waited 15 second and started driving, uphill for 3 floor below earth, exit the garage, one block, turn, few meters, traffic light and then the idle was ready to drop to 800 rpm. My Felicia has a caprice, does not like the 2nd cold start of the day and on the other hand i don't want to wait 3:45 to get warmed-up.

Many years back i had a serious problem with Denso iridium, was before the internet-forum era and i bought what the seller told me without knowing the risk. I don't remember their code but i think that the seller gave me wrong reference that's why 2 times the car turned off itself while i was driving, i was one step away from a crash! I use iridium spark plug in an old motorcycle 30+ years old and works amazing.

I am trying to figure out about NGK spark plugs https://www.ngkpartfinder.co.uk/catalogues/cars/search/spark-plugs/SKODA/FELICIA/2001/ https://www.ngkntk.com/gr/anazitisi-proionton/productfinder/category/PKW-ZK_BENZINER/product/13399/?cHash=2bc3c3884d933655f48a9d6938a16258 They disagree for iridium and agree to platinum but i don't want the BKUR5ET-10 again, so what option do i have with NGK brand? On the other hand i changed the way of driving from night cold start to the 1st traffic light, i hate to wait 3:44 inside the parking garage till the idle drops to 800 rpm so i wait only 20 seconds and then start driving normally.

I will make a thoroughly use of cleaning spray on the air intake manifold and then (when the car is cold) i will inspect the gap of my spark plugs or i will install new set after i check their gap with the feeler blade.

I asked him and said no need for a new gasket, he insisted that it was just a tighten issue and case closed. When i found time i will clean that part of engine to check for signs of new leak, only then i will feel reassured.