D.FYLAKTOS

The new ones are from Aluminium Alloy but with Chrome effect, bigger and very good looking, more convenient with better grip. Here was what i had, so make the comparison: I think the new ones are the Winners.

Here is the co-drivers door. So what's missing from that door panel? New door lock pins ! Here is the factory style, cheap plastic pins with that ''ring'' around it, never like them were not convenient, i replace them with the ones that you can see in the above photo, were from aluminium (same dimensions) with a checkered end for better grip. I had them for many years till i saw in aliexpress these and i bought them.

As for the record, thank God i didn't had to go to solutions like this: Holts Wondarweld is a professional cooling system repair product that’s designed to fix small cracks and holes in the cylinder head, engine block and head gasket. Repairs cracks in engine blocks, cylinder head gaskets and water pump gaskets Heavy-duty crack repair Suitable for steel, aluminium, and iron engines.

https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/424112-windscreen-rust-repair-to-stop-leak/ @R_U_AFA you put also sealant between the plastic cover and the factory windshield seal? https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/140139-felicia-windscreen-replacement/page/2/#findComment-5807167

I will put a mark on the radiator cap to see if it has a tendency to turn left and get loose. I will ckeck it. I thought 60.000 km.

Made in China? What calipers we need? They come with their own brackets?

That small lose it's not visible, i checked the hoses-connections,the thermostat housing no leak at all, everything is dry. The expansion tank is VIKA (not the cap) so maybe there is tiny loss of 100ml per year because the fitting isn't perfect , also i think i haven't check 3 hoses but 2 so i missed one https://ecanis.shop/media/image/product/84894/lg/motorkuehlung-110006516-mahle_cr-405-000s.webp and i wonder if there is a tiny leak from the radiator itself but i don't want to put any chemical ''sealant'' on it.

So after this ''torture'' i took a photo from the coolant temperature factory gauge, here is the highest point (as already knew it from the last trip) for my Trusty. I disassemble and clean the kit and returned home declaring a Victory !

Rev by hand, after a while the fan start spinning, took a photo then let it come to normal. This happened another 5 times at least, totally 7 times the fan start working and i think after so many minutes was more than enough for the test, if there would be a colour change it will occur already.

I drove the car for few minutes in low-middle rpm,the temperature rise and the fan start spinning. I parked the car in an alley, installed the kit drop some blue liquor and rev it by hand, the fan started again and this happened another 2 times. The whole liquor was moving left and right depending the rpm (idle- higher) but the colour didn't changed. I decide to insist more to be 100% sure that's why i made a (sloppy) tape work to ''seal'' it more and insist in higher rpm revving by hand.

Full details of the test soon.

236mm vented brake discs (as Felicia has) but we need diferent calipers, the point is: Which?

@Naze behind the door panel is a naylon sheet, sometimes gets worn-have holes-unpluged etc and it's not tight as it should be and does not seals properley, then there is no waterproofness and drops are comeind down and slowly are drived behind the pedals or the fuse box. If you open the panel check it and replace it if needed, you can buy thick naylon from a convenience or tools store store-cut it and apply it.

Ok, that Syphon tube must be filled with the blue liquor. I will post photos of the test.

Since we are not Rallymen, what is better for us: stock diameter vented disks or plain discs but bigger diameter and a bit bigger calipers?

That's the amount of blue liquor that i must use?

https://amio.pl/en/head-gasket-tester/3-129-6742 Instructions for performing the test: 1.Fill the instrument with reaction fluid to the level between the chambers (approximately 2ml). 2.Connect the tester to the opening of the expansion tank or radiator. 3.Start the engine, put it into high revs to obtain higher combustion pressure. 4.Leave the engine at slightly increased rpm and observe the reaction fluid behaviour 5.A change in the colour of the reaction fluid to yellow or green within a few minutes of the test indicates a defective head gasket or damage to the head itself. 6.Carefully dismantle the instrument after testing is complete. Test results: 1.Change in colour from blue to green in a diesel engine - indicates damage to the head gasket or the head itself. 2.Change of colour from blue to yellow in a petrol/LPG engine - indicates damage to the head gasket or to the head itself. 3.Reaction fluid colour blue - No CO2 detected in the system. Safety information: During the test on the radiator reservoir it is mandatory to take extra care when unscrewing the cap on a warm engine and during the test itself - risk of burns! Do not allow coolant to mix with reaction fluid during the test - the test may be invalid! Keep out of reach of children, wash hands thoroughly after the test!

Translated from a customer's review: Our system is ''closed'' so i have to run the car till the thermostat full opens, open the (expansion's tank) cap slowly, maybe an amount of air will come out or maybe not, apply the rubber cone-funnel, throw the blue liquor and? Must i rev the car by hand for how long? Should i let it idle it self and for how long? The coolant will rise shortly since there is no pressure.

I have in my trunk, i will apply if needed. No,no...i have bitter experience from ''chemisty experiementals'' in the past in my coolant and not only. Just the test as the directions say to be sure that i have no head gasket problem although i have no indications. The kit arrived today, if the weather is good i will give it a try at Saturday noon.

Water leak is sneaky, it can be from the doors snd slowly make a tiny channel and collected below pedals or the fuse box. It happened to me few times. Clean first the drain grooves (left-right) in the pillars.

Lot of Fabia models, lot of diameters, examples: Skoda Fabia Mk1 1.4 16V 75 hp Petrol 12.1999 - 03.2008 https://www.onlinecarparts.co.uk/car-brands/spare-parts-skoda/fabia-6y2/15107/10132/brake-disc.html Skoda Fabia Praktik 1.4 68 hp Petrol 07.2001 - 05.2003 https://www.onlinecarparts.co.uk/car-brands/spare-parts-skoda/fabia-praktik/19335/10132/brake-disc.html

Foundry job, too expensive. Even for Greece the price is high, there is an extra tax due to Customs since England is not in the EU now. Their rear brakes aren't drum as we have.

Removal and installation of components of the heating and ventilation system https://www.skodabook.ru/en/remain/Felicia/power/cooling/snyatie-i-ustanovka-komponentov-sistemy-otopleniya-i-ventilyacii (with photos)

That rubber adaptor will ''seal'' properly the expansion tank and the fumes from the coolant will rise up and mixed with the blue liquid? I wonder why we can mix coolant with few drops from Bromothymol Blue to see the reaction?

I wonder if those from Fabia (modified) won't do?