Alexandru

I have one of these connected to my Pioneer HU. It's a straight fit, bolts on, the worst part is getting the wires. It has an LED near the camera to replace the standard bulb. I've replaced the second bulb with an LED one as well and it does it's job. I'll take a picture for you tonight.

It gets better and better along with the engine getting upto running temp. By doing the conversion, I'm doing an average of 41mpg (urban or extra, it is the same for this engine) and I can do about 200miles with 1/2 tank(maybe a bit less, the needle is showing more than it should be). The distance traveled since I filled the tank until now is 213miles. I can say that for an mpi, getting about 400miles with a full tank is pretty much decent(especially during cold seasons and while doing short trips). A few days old pic, proving myself that driving it at high rpm doesn't mean a lower mpg. In this case, I was doing 30(speed limit in town), 2nd gear, on plain road and getting an instant 42mpg, which is about my average. I keep this way my sparkplugs, O2 probes, catalyst, exhaust clean, nice and shine. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You should get it tested. Some dealers have a tool which is able to print a diagnostic bulletin with the battery status(cranking amps figure is what you need to know). Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You can activate the instruments panel wear indicator warning light. I am not sure how you can retrofit the system though. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

00532 - Supply Voltage B+: Signal too Low Possible Causes Wiring/Connectors from/to Control Module faulty Power Supply (Battery/Generator) faulty Possible Solutions Check/Repair Wiring/Connectors from/to Control Module Check Power Supply (Battery/Generator) Special Notes When found in an individual control module, it's most likely a local source (e.g. wiring/connectors). When found in multiple control modules at the same time, it's most likely a common source (e.g. ground spot, battery, generator). Intermittent codes are often stored during low outside temperature when the battery capacity goes down and may be ignored. Common with 16946/P0562/001378 - System Voltage: Too Low stored in other control modules.

It seems that I will have to re-seal the oil sump. 2nd time this year. Why did these engines come without a gasket for the sump? I hate it.

Good to know! Nice tip! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Should I do the same?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Universal-Smart-Vehicle-Side-Mirror-Auto-Folding-Unfoloding-Controller-Module-/111016438613 ?

just figures (rev it up).

I've found a set of roof bars from a Superb / A8. I've been told that if those are too long, can be cut and modified to fit a hatchback Fabia. I'm not so sure though. Has anybody tried this? later edit: this is how they fit between the roof and the door somehow

A/C is usually turned off. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I can still hear water bubbling around the heater matrix after leaving the car parked over the night. It stops after about one mile or so. Funny thing: after turning off the engine(after driving a few hours) I can hear a sound coming from the heater matrix (through the central vents) like it's depressurising or something. What is wrong with it? It has a mind on it's own! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Nope and nope, it's just alchemy. A better way to get maintain an engine (old, new, doesn't really matter) is by getting the injectors and the throttle body cleaned, fresh fuel, air (OEM, not sport K&N or stuff like this) and oil filters each time the car is serviced, spark plugs when needed .. but more important, not running the car with an empty fuel tank. Basically this very last thing burns the fuel pumps and gets dirt into the injection system. Later edit: 1. cleaning the throttle body is a 30 mins job and it mostly costs nothing. 2. cleaning and testing the injectors for leaking should be done once a couple of years. 3. Your car already has O2 sensors, catalyst and an ECU, so they do really know what's better for your engine, you can be sure of that.

It is perfect. I'm driving it daily, in all kind of traffic situations and on mostly all it's rpms. I was just being curious why it was blowing cold air and I'm getting concerned about the pump's health, that's all.

Can I check it ? It's not expensive as a part, but still...as far as my mechanic told me, if it is not leaking, it's in good shape. Can it be a third situation ?

This is my 1.4 mpi engine (ATZ) which has been through a lot, with about 10.000km old Liqui Moly MOS2 10W40 (next week is booked to be serviced, of course). The car is from 2000, with 200.000 km on the clock ( but with no fsh, so I can't tell for sure if genuine or not). I've never had any internal engine parts repaired or replaced so far (no timing chain or so). Also, can't tell what has been done by the previous owner.

Ok, so we finally agree that the heater matrix is always getting coolant flow, whether the thermostat is opened or closed. Is there any plausible explanation why it was blowing cold air when the engine was boiling ? Is there any possible way to test if the pump works as it should be without taking it apart ?

Can you post a clip with the engine running so we can hear it ? Maybe it's something else.

So the pump should've been running hot coolant through the heater matrix when my engine overheated.

I know if from the winter time that I can feel warm-ish air coming through the vents even if the temp needle is not all the way up. I've done a 'test' today, ran the car for about 5 minutes, the needle was half way up, the pipe going to the heater matrix was hotter than the one going to the radiator. It's not precise though, after I restarted the car the needle went all the way up. The main radiator was cold though.

I'm using Liqui Moly 10W40 on my 1.4 mpi 8v. IIRC, It's a semi. The engine has about 200.000km on the clock, not sure if are genuine or not. IMHO, the oil should meet the specs required (VAG 505.01) and if replaced somewhere between 7-10.000km along with the filter it should be just fine.

It makes perfect sense then. I was thinking it was cycling somehow the coolant though the small heater matrix when thermostat was closed, at least to get heat in the car before the engine would be running at the standard temp, controlled by the thermostat.

That was my initial thought as well, if there is no water flow through the heater matrix it would take ages to get the engine at 90 degree, open the thermostat and then have heat in the car during winter.

So it allows no flow in both directions, heater matrix AND radiator as well ?