MajorTom

I'd change at 4mm but by then you'd probably have noticed they weren't as good any more. Bear in mind that they start with 8mm.

Looks like you had some nice weather - there are some good roads around Jyväskylä that occasionally get used for a rally...

As with all these tests, the results also depend on what tyre gets tested from the range - apples to apples and all that. Those Nokian WR D3s seem a surprisingly cheap/cost effective offering for a continental Europe tyre ... I've had the misfortune of renting some cars with budget winters, Klebers and the like, and they really are of little use compared to a decent winter tyre. I also have some Michelins on the Yeti (thanks so much, dear cheapo dealer) which are pretty bad on snow and ice, bad enough for my wife to notice the big difference compared to the Nokian Hakkapeliitta Rs which we have been running.

I just stuck another litre of oil in the car to bring it back to max, and (unlike the other car) it wasn't my driving... so that's about 3½ litres for 20,000km

If you have to drive a 2WD car in snow on summers, then the narrower the better, provided there's lots of tread, but basically, you're better off with decent winter tyres, whether your car is 2WD or 4WD.

I wonder what BossFox is doing with his old 1.8T engine? I may need one...

exactly ^^^ It's a complete disaster.

Warranties are overrated. They are just intended to provide peace of mind. Ultimately, the product is either designed to last or it isn't, and it seems that modern cars are no longer designed to last, they are designed to run well enough until 3-4 years old when they should be replaced.

I also have high oil usage (I don't know why they call it 'long life oil' as it doesn't stay in there very long); I think I'll need to take this to a dealer for a check up and then file a claim on my extended warranty... what a pile of *******s.

A couple of observations from a cold country: even warm water re-freezes so that's not a trick we use, and a bit of silicon (it comes in a sort of shoe shine thingy with a sponge) works wonders on the rubber seals. As I mentioned in another thread, an engine block heater from DEFA is a worthwhile investment (see www.defa.com), as a pre-warmed engine is easier to start and a pre-warmed interior is nicer on old bones. Plus there's no faffing with sheets, covers, scrapers etc. You just have to remember to unplug the car before leaving... But of course, if you're parking on the street, it's not viable.

Diesels are more thermodynamically efiicient than petrols, so less heat is being produced, and it takes an age to warm up. The best thing to do is fit an electric DEFA engine block heater, and then plug the car in between 30-60 minutes before you need to leave the house; it pre-warms block and engine oil. It's easier on the engine, the battery and you. They're pretty much standard fitment on everything in the Nordics. You can even get an interior heater too, which is pretty great on a cold day. You just need an outside socket, which is also standard fitment in every Nordic house. I've no idea if they're even sold in the UK but it can't be rocket science to source and install... see www.defa.com

Personally, I don't see the point of paying more for a Tiguan than a Yeti, when they are both essentially the same underneath, and the Tiguan just looks so dull...

I don't double-declutch but then I never need to drive a lorry, van, tank etc. I do rev-match as I beleive in mechanical sympathy, even if Colin Chapman didn't. I have learned that smoothness usually equals quickness, both in winter and on the track. Upset the car, and you're either in the ditch or the armco...

thanks, funnily enough I've got a Whiteline underneath the rear of the other car...

True. Friction tyres can't cope with sheet ice too well, but sheet ice has only happened to me once in over 15 years of winter driving round here. I do run the full Nokian studded tyres on the other car though - it's powerful/FWD and needs all the grip possible.

Groiund Control has had a quiet winter so far; I've used it to retrieve a small boat from an unofficial slip (ie the side of the lake, in narrow dog leg gap between some trees easily negotiated in such a modestly sized car) and then tow the boat around a bit, and I've been running the roof bars as I bought a massive 3m Christmas tree (which came home on the roof). Funnily enough though, it seems to be popping bulbs, all while the temperatures are below freezing. Need to get them sorted as I'm tired of the endless reminders... In the meantime, I hate the resolute understeer in low grip siutations. Really need those new tyres and rARB.

It's not a full boot but I do carry 'winter packs' in both my cars - come spring, I chuck out the snow shovel etc, and just keep the basics. But if you've ever needed to simply change a wheel in winter, you'll thank yourself for your foresight.

I've got the Goodyear Efficient Grip Performance as summer tyres; they're standard fitment. They seem OK, and are definitely hard wearing and seem to get average-to-good rankings in the tyre tests. No issues in the wet. You get what you pay for. However, when the time comes to replace them, I'll be looking for something with less focus on 'efficient', and more focus on handling and braking because that's what I always do.

I'll need to arrange a trip across the water to Sweden - home of the Haldex. I think this was discussed this in the BossFox Yeti thread and a couple of links were provided - you might have to do a search. I miss the feel of my old Subaru's.

I went for a custom remap rather than a tuning box with a stock map. It's not just about making headline numbers, it's about the curves, or how you want your car to drive. Now I want to get the Haldex remapped as well, so there's a more equal split front to rear but that's a whole other discussion.

Your 118d engine probably felt better than the Yetiäs because the car was lighter, it was RWD and the engine was smoother and quieter. It may just take a while to learn the new gearing and optimal revs for changing gears. On the other hand, I imagine that the ride quality and road noise is far better in the Yeti. I find mine to be incredibly quiet and relaxing, especially after I have been driving my other car (which I also use on the track).

If both cars are relatively evenly matched the more determined driver will get past ... Just wait for winter: you'll find that a Yeti is very good indeed at getting from A to B.

There's not much happening with 'Guildford', although I did source some some nice cost-effective 17" rims and some Skoda badges as the new winter wheels. They're still in the shed, awaiting the new Nokian winter rubber and well, winter. In the meantime I would still need to sell the horrible (but brand new) rims that the car came with, as I'm not keen on them or the cheapo/poor Michelin "x-ice3 Nordic" (ha! Nordic my arse) winter tyres that came with the car - no front end grip, just understeer. '' And it seems that my wife can just about squeeze 600km from a tank of day-to-day driving. It does clean up well though with a proper wash using Autoglym car shampoo.

225lbs ft of torque is pretty good from a 1.6, I'd be happy with that.

I seem to recall that some Mercs had this feature, nothing that would worry me.