Colin170CR

That's quite a list.

I've had worse than that repaired before & looking like new. That said it's one way of getting a full size spare!

OK. Looks like I have C so not for a Superb. I'll re-order & put mine up for free sale + cost of postage. That'll teach me to read in more detail before I click the order button!!

I may have a problem. My kit arrived today & the tailgate camera / latch assy is the one with the 2 screw threads coming out the back which are not the same as the one I have installed which has plastic latches. Which version of this kit did you order / use for your Superb? A,B,C,D,E or F?

It's a job I still haven't got around to doing yet. I normally drive with the Start Stop system turned off so it's not a big issue for me - except when I forget to turn the SS off at the start of every journey. I guess I could also fit one of those memory modules that keeps the SS turn off all the time which would be another solution. I do plan to have another go at finding the right type of fuse to piggyback onto & this will be a case of playing lucky dip & trying as many fuses as the hard wired Dash Cam piggyback cable will fit into - because the fuse pins are not all the same physical size & some have obstacles next to them which prevent you from plugging in the L shaped piggyback cable. If I get no joy from the fuse box behind the glove box I might have to consider the fuse box under the bonnet but that will be a last resort. From memory I'm currently plugged into fuse No 46 (230v socket which is not present on my car), 47 (rear wiper) or possibly 48 (control unit for Blind Spot detection.) Not sure though. Whichever one it is it cuts power to the Dash Can whenever the SS cuts the engine hence why I need to find a fuse that stays on when the SS kicks in but goes dead when the car is stationary & is locked.

I think these pics of mine from last year when I put my rear dash cam in shows the issue. The two rubber conduits at the top of the tailgate already have cables, rear washer pipes & other gubbins inside them so getting extra cables through them is not easy. I found the r/h side easier to route my dash cable through. The L/H side was already quite tight & the dash cam cable interfered with the DAB signal. When I come to do the rear view camera on mine I will have the same issue as well as finding a route through the front to back of the car.

You learn something every day. 👍

I thought it was supposed to dip both mirrors when in reverse. I'll give that a go. If it works then I'll be jiggered & guilty of not reading the instructions😒

I've ordered one. I had to do a similar exercise when I fitted a rear dash cam so I have got a set of trim / radio pulling tools etc. I may have to go down the passenger side as my dash cam cables go through the R/H tailgate rubber which is fairly full already. My only concern is whether the cables will interfere with the DAB reception. My wing mirrors have never dipped (even when selected in the infotainment) when selecting reverse so I'll not be worrying about that. Thanks for the info. I'll report back when I get mine & give it a go.

I guess it was not included back then. No sunroof either bit it does have that awful self parallel parking thing which I have never used. My wife had a rear camera in her Karoq & in the replacement Kona. Seems to be a standard fit item on mid & top spec cars these days but not back in 2016 on an L&K. For £35 I might give it a go but if it needs a load of coding then I might pass cos I don't have the gear to do it. There again there might be local members with the software thing's to help out for the price of a few pints.. Hell for £35 It's a punt so just do it anyway.

Might be interested in doing this myself. Was there much trim removal & coding required?

Ditto.

Motorway have fairly strict T&C's which I found out when I tried to sell our Karoq via them. It turned out that our low mileage (12,000 mile when we bought it on 2021) 19 plate Karoq had at one time been registered by the previous owner with a local council as a "pick up" car. This came up on one of their searches on the car & Motorway read this as the car being used as a "Cab" so they refused to sell the car. No if's or buts or discussion. All was not lost because I got nearly the same valuation as Motorway when I traded it in for our replacement car.

Agreed. Recently we felt it was time to get an EV that we could charge from home & never use any public chargers. So, it was a toss up whether we part ex'd / sold my wife's Karoq or, my L&K 280 to make way for the EV. I thought about it for about 2 secs. The 280 had to stay so the Karoq got part-ex'd for a nearly new ex-motability Kona Ultimate. TBF the independent trader gave us a very fair price for the Karoq which made the whole process a whole lot easier than me selling it privately.

Here's a pic of my front wheel. You can see the rust on the hub behind the wheel nuts. This is what i need to treat & paint. I've been meaning to do this for a while but to date haven't managed to get around to it.

Snap, with the dash cam draining the battery during lockdown scenario. I now have it hardwired in to a piggyback fuse behind the glovebox that goes dead when the ignition is off. Only snag is, it also goes dead when the start stop activates so the dash cam is on / off with the engine while I'm driving. I need to find another fuse to piggy off that stays live when start stop activates. Another job to add to the list. However, my next job to do is to spruce up my rusty wheel hubs which can be seen through the spokes of the alloys & are starting annoy me immensely. It's not a good look on my newly black powder coated Trinity alloys. Do Audi wheel hubs go rusty? Wheels off, wire wheel attachment on drill, elbow grease & spray paint satin black in situ without spraying the discs & anything else. Should do the job.

And, as we all hopefully know, the cig lighters in most Skoda cars are permanently live so even more reason to unplug everything from them when locking & leaving the car unless you want a flat battery or worse.

I think it's a similar situation for most modern cars these days. A cambelt change on my old Audi A6 (& I think the Superb is similar) resulted a near complete disassembly of the front end of the car & takes a garage the best part of a day to do. Plus, while they have the entire front end all over the workshop floor, they have to replace the obligatory other parts like a water pump because it's "prudent" to do it while they have the access which would otherwise need the front end of the car being stripped again. It all adds to the unnecessary cost the hapless motorist has to pay for something that should be far easier & cheaper to do. By contrast a cambelt change on my old 1968 slant 4 2.0ltr Vauxhall Viva GT could be done in my lunch break & did not even involve removing a cam belt cover or any other part of the car! In the pic below you can just see the top of the cam belt by the radiator filler cap. Not even a cover, although I think one may have been added on later models. An oil filter change, headlight bulb replacement & just about any other engine bay related task was equally as easy. IMO modern car design, from a maintenance / repair point of view, cannot be seen as an improvement over what went before. You can't even change a battery these days without "re-coding" the ECU which needs a PC & software😖 Rant over. Deep breath & a stiff drink.

I can still get down & under our cars. However, getting back out & onto my feet is the issue!! Experienced this recently when I had to remove the rear bumper undertray on my wife's Kona to replace a dim halogen reversing light bulb for an LED. Did it without jacking the car up for more access. Who designs a car with no access to the rear light bulbs from within the boot space?

I don't think it will be the alternator - it has no oil or water to leak. My guess would be water pump. Mine developed a very small leak last year & it's a common problem on this engine. Be prepared for a big bill because they will need to change the pump, pump housing & the thermostat as well.

That amount of lumens looks like a night time rally car🚙! Is it even legal? Personally I find my L&K auto LED full beam headlights perfectly fine. Certainly good enough to pick out the odd bit of nocturnal wildlife we get in our neck of the woods. Normally it's muntjac deer, foxes & badgers. I appreciate more light is better if you are driving at night on unlit roads all the time but this seems a bit OTT.

2016 280 serviced today with 60,284 miles on the clock. Only done 4,000 miles since last year.

Just got my annual inspection / oil change done at a VAG indy. £140 for the service, £60 for replacement Brake Fluid & £220 for DSG oil & filter. Advisories. Service advise; Air conditioning service every 2 years - declined as it's fine & I changed pollen filter myself last year. Haldex oil replacement every 38,00 miles or 3 years whichever comes first - done 2 years ago. Nearside rear and offside rear suspension coil springs corroded at the common fracture point - one to watch. Nearside front tyre tread depth; 6 mm. Offside front tyre tread depth; 6 mm. Nearside rear tyre tread depth; 4 mm, tyre cracking on the inner and outer treads - only 1 year old!. Offside rear tyre tread depth; 5 mm, tyre cracking on the inner and outer treads - only 1 year old. 1.6 mm is the legal tyre tread depth limit. No service book in vehicle at time of service - yes there was in glove box.

Yes. We thought long & hard about what EV to get. I never buy new cars so it had to be a used EV funded by the proceeds from the sale of the Karoq + a small amount of savings. I found a dealer who specialises in ex-mobility Kona's & went for a facelifted 22 plate Kona Ultimate with only 2,300 miles on it for a good price which I will pick up on Saturday. I know EV's are supposed to be pretty quick off the line but I was genuinely surprised how fast the little Kona was - especially in Sport mode. My wife will use it in Eco+ mode all the time but it's nice to now it can shift if needed. We'll just have to watch those front tyres, especially in the wet!! Our solar panels got installed earlier this year & I've been watching how much excess solar has been going back to the grid after the battery & hot water have all been topped up. Now it can go into the car - at least during the summer months.

Well our Karoq has now been sold. In the end we traded it in for a 22 plate Hyundai Kona Electric. Our first ever electric car which should reduce our running / fuel costs - at least on one car. The plan is to only use the Kona for local-ish trips & within the range of it's 64kWh battery which is around 300 miles! More than enough to get us pretty much anywhere we or my wife need to go & return within a single day without having to recharge. The plan is to only ever charge the car from home on off peak lekky overnight or solar during the summer. My Superb will be used for longer trips, holidays, hauling larger stuff & the odd blast to satisfy my inner petrol head. Sad to see the Karoq go. Great car with fab spec but it was time for us to switch to electric. I'll be signing out of this Karoq forum shortly but I'll still participate in the Superb III. 👋