SideshowBob

What was the issue with the 007p if you don't mind me askin?

I would recommend cleaning the part of the sills that the mudflaps cover then waxoyling it prior to fitting.

If it's just that they've gone faded and grey, then a good clean followed by some Armorall Protectant brings them back up nicely. No doubt the detailing crew will suggest some more expensive/elaborate/better product but I find this works just as well. Also peanut butter works a treat apparently, but don't be surprised if you come out one day to find all the neighborhood dogs licking your bumpers.

As others have said, Performance Torque is both local and recommended. Have a read on my views about my recent remap there... CLICKY The remap completely transforms the car, make no mistake. It was a bit of a pretender as standard, now its the real deal. :rofl:

One tip... You will need to drill one hole through the plastic wheelarch liner to insert a plastic rivet. You will find that the exact place where the hole needs to be drilled is already marked on the wheelarch by a circle / crosshairs about 2/3 of the way up and a few inches in from the wing. Find the mark and drill it before you get the other clips in. They're good though, I could probably fit a set to one side in about 3 minutes now.

Got minE from skoda 3 months ago £25 ish. Fit like a glove too.

Yeah I think I just need to accept the limitations of the tyres I suppose and try to adjust my driving style. I keep hearing about dogbone mounts/bushes etc. What does the dogbone do and how would it help? I've heard people mentioning increased vibrations after changing the dogbone or bushes (one or the other anyway)

I discovered earlier that a fuel receipt folded up as many times as poss, and jammed in the gap works a treat. although your fix is undoubtedly more elegant.

The arb bushes can wear out pretty quickly. You should check your springs too by the sounds of it. My mk4 golf had a spring snap last year, and looking through the receipts for my VRS it has had front springs replaced at 65k. It's a common prob, especially if you have to drive over speesbumps a lot.

I've got Pirelli P6000's on, which were on when I bought it a few months ago, I'm not sure where these tyres fit in the grand scheme of things though? I do a fair few motorway miles so I need enough grip but with decent wear rates too. There's definitely a learning curve involved, compared to the standard map, you need a lot less throttle to make progress now. I think that because the roads around my neck of the woods tend to be very busy lots of the time, perhaps I just get over-excited and greedy with the throttle when I encounter an empty road. If I can remind myself to be progressive with the throttle it might help. Limited slip diff sounds very expensive... :( Perhaps I should just live with it!!

After my recent remap, even though I'm delicate with the throttle I'm still finding that I get a bit of wheelspin out of 2nd gear corners and sometimes in 3rd on anything but a dry straight stretch of road. So it's got me wondering what mods can be done to help get the power down more effectively. Is there anything (other than replacing the whole suspension setup) that can help?

Traffic is probably what's causing it, I expect it should go though once the clutch has bedded in. My old impreza used to develop clutch judder all the time because it spent so much time in stop/start traffic. The cure was to do a 4k 'launch' but that doesn't do the drivetrain any good. Eventually it had a P1 clutch fitted as a replacement under warranty.

I likes it. It's dirty. Like my missus.

just out of interest mate how long do they get from engines before rebuilds, and likewise for turbos and suchlike?

Niiiiiice.... I think the centre console fake carbon trim would look way better wrapped in that stuff

Is clutch feel improved? Cos my clutch feels numb, unlike for instance my old 205 Gti in which you could feel practically every grain on the friction plate!

Yeah same here. Have you noticed any difference in refinement or smoothness Bodge? I can't understand why they fitted a petrol motor with a DMF when petrols are hardly known for their vibes and harshness unlike the dweezels.

Ok if I must.... Just as background to this, my mate Delboy has a Vauxhall Monaro. First he had a stainless system custom made, and a remap..got about 360hp...then he got into drifting and he had a supercharger added...420hp..then he cooked the piston rings on a drifting day and had forged internals, a complete engine rebuild, swirl pot fuel system....520hp Then he discovered the mapping was terrible, it wasn't cooling properly and the fuel pump was maxed out. Changed fuel pump, fixed cooling system....597hp. The graph attached was when it was running dodgy. So on the graph he has kindly added a couple of arrows pointing to my octy hp and torque....the git!!

Yes I would say so, if you are progressive enough to get the power down. Otherwise, hello wheelspin city. T'other night, in the wet, I got rolling in 1st and avoided wheelspin up to about 4k, then shifted into 2nd and managed to get the power down without much drama through to about 60mph. I was quite surprised how quick it was to be honest. That said, I don't do the traffic light GP thang and tend to just get rolling a bit before giving it any welly. The Octy vRS, and more so after a remap, is all about in-gear muscle rather than being quick off the line if you get my drift.

Hi Greg Yes I have a standard exhaust, no mods at all in fact until this week! I run it on V-Power 90% of the time, it gets better fuel economy which pays for the extra cost per litre, and gives a quite noticeable performance increase even on a standard car. To get the quoted 180bhp Skoda state 98ron fuel or higher is required. Having run it on v-power then gone back to 95 a few times it definitely pulls harder on 98. Some remap require 98 and run poorly on 95, I checked with Will on this beforehand and he says the stg1 map runs fine on 95 although it will obviously make less power. Worth knowing though in case you're low on fuel with no Shell garages around.... When I took out my policy a few months ago I was hoping to get it remapped so I made sure I chose an insurer that was ok with mods. I think my policy is with equity red star and is via Adrian Flux. The remap etc added £40 to my premium. Definitely check before you get anything done, and if they do mods and give you an acceptable adjustment figure, get them to save it with your policy. Many's the time that I've been quoted one figure only to phone up later after having made modifications to be told a completely different (higher) figure...

The 1.8T is quite a strong motor and will take a decent amount of tuning before you have to start going 'internal'. The things to watch out for are really the clutch and the amount of boost that you're running. I've heard talk that the stock clutch (in good health) is good for up to 250hp. However if your clutch is on it's last legs then more power will obviously kill it quicker. A lot of tuners tend to do a run or two on the dyno with the car in a higher state of tune to check for clutch slip before backing things off a bit. I'm sure I saw Will do a 215hp run and suspect it was for this reason. Also, old perished hoses will quickly show problems in the form of boost leaks at higher boost. That said, my vRS is an 02 model and all seems fine. The main thing I would check with a remap is how much overboost and held boost it's running. Some tuners (mentioning no names here) have been known to run well over 20psi which looks good on the dyno graph and for bragging rights, but won't do your turbo any good at all. One of the reasons I chose P-Torque is that Will doesn't go chasing headline figures, instead preferring to map a decent smooth torque curve that's more friendly to the car and smooth to drive. As for cost, I took advantage of the January offer and got the remap for £245. I added a pipercross panel filter and forge dv which took the cost to £360 all in. As it's a stage 1 map and therefore intended for an otherwise standard-ish car it's a relatively safe level of tuning. With a but of respect for the clutch and turbo it shouldn't affect reliability or engine life much or at all.

Who did you get to fit the clutch Bodge?

When I did it I only needed to put about 300ml of G12 coolant in to top it back to where it was. There's a guide on one of the audi forums or have a search. I just removed engine cover, the cable tray at the front of the intake manifold and unplugged the block connector to the alternator. That was enough for me to get some grips on the hose clip and remove it (loses a small amount of coolant) and then get access to the stat housing. With the stat housing removed the stat normally stays in place, so you need to have the new one ready with the o-ring in place, then do a quick-ish switch with the old one. Don't worry too much about the coolant gushing out, it looks like there's more than there actually is. Make sure you have a litre bottle of G12 on hand to top up afterwards and be careful to fit the stat the right way round.

That's a good price indeed Steve, glad to hear you got it sorted. I don't want to be smug but.... I said it was the stat! :rofl:

Hi all Well after a few weeks deliberating over whether to get it done or not, I took my Mk1 Octy vRS for a remap at performance torque. I also had a Pipercross panel filter fitted to help it breathe a little better (and so I could hear a bit more from the engine & turbo) and a forge 007p recirc dump valve so I wouldn't have to worry about the OE one playing up. Will was very knowledgeable and gave the car a health check and test drive first, paying attention to condition of the clutch as mine is now at 85k... After a run on the dyno while logging it he found no problems or concerns, so on with the map. An hour or so later with the map sorted and another dyno run, he took it for a quick test drive before handing me the keys to make sure I was happy with it. I only managed a short test drive up the industrial estate a couple of times due to the roadworks at the entrance, but straight away I was hugely impressed. I then paid up, sorted out insurance before setting off back home. The drive home was a hoot, every chance I got I was exploring the extra grunt. I have to say it has made the car come alive...it was quite quick as standard but not particularly torquey, well now it's waaay quicker, every gear has massive usable punch and all the while still being very civilised to potter around in. The engine note has changed, it's gone from 'police camera action' to now having a bit of bite to it, and on a quiet road surface with little traffic I can now hear all sorts of mechanical whirrs and suchlike which I like. The Forge is good, doesn't sound chavvy at all in fact I suspect it can only be heard inside the car, but with the extra boost you can feel it shutting abruptly and it makes a nice 'chock' noise when you shut off. First gear is now strictly consigned for just getting rolling unless you're really delicate with the throttle, especially with the roads still greasy. Second will spin up, third will scrabble for grip even on a dry road and fourth has huge range. Fifth gear on the motorway is staggering, by the time you're alongside that car that's been hogging the middle lane you're doing 25-30mph more than they are. Still got 39mpg coming back from birmingham to preston with the odd mad moment... Before the map my car pulled 181.7hp with 184.4lb/ft torque After the map it now makes 210.9hp with 230lb/ft torque woot woot!! The midrange is where it really impresses....from 3.5 to 4.5k I've gained another 40-65lb/ft torque and it really shows. Dyno graph HERE for your perusement...sorry but for some reason I can't include a jpg? - Done by Tom