SideshowBob

I've got a Grom audio unit which works fine with my 80gb 'classic'. It plays fine with my 3G iPhone too although it doesn't charge it, but that's remedied by either buying a new cable from Grom or a cheap ebay charge adapter which connects in-line. The grom unit just plugs directly into the CD Changer connector using a vehicle specific ISO lead. I was tired of FM transmitters too and the constant loss of signal, or poor signal when it did actually work.

I thought the thermostat was supposed to be failsafe, ie when it fails it opens rather than stays closed? Otherwise you'd be driving along seeing no temp reading yet the motor could be cooking? I seem to remember reading a thread on here about it a couple of months back when mine was playing up. I can only imagine that, when the stat starts to fail, it opens at lower temps leading to over-cooling especially at motorway speeds. It's only when stationary or at town speeds where enough heat builds up under the bonnet to get it anywhere near 90. Either way, mine was reading between 70-90deg and all I replaced was the stat. Problem sorted.

might be worth it..... ...if your name is 'the stig'

Sounds exactly like the thermostat. Mine behaved this way until I changed it, runs at 90 now fine.

Spot-on mate, I came to this realisation when I had my Golf TDI. I would nurse it about all over the place trying to get 50mpg only for the turbo vanes to start sticking. Luckily that problem can be sorted by giving it a darned good thrashing, what, but as others have stated in this thread there is no point saving a few quid in fuel when you're causing long-term engine damage that will cost you several times the amount you've saved. You're not wrong...in my 1.8T I often only need 2nd gear if I'm trundling through the village behind someone doing 25mph. In fact the in-gear range has been a pleasant surprise since moving back from a dweesel. I love the way that 3rd can take you all the way from 20mph right up to 100!

01316: ABS Control Module 01247: Charcoal filter solenoid (sorry I don't have a link for this) 00515: Camshaft position sensor The only one I would concern yourself with at the moment would be the camshaft fault code. There are a few folks on here that should be able to give you a more clued-up suggestion on what could be causing that.

Sounds very much like a knackered thermostat Quoted from a post by me on a similar thread t'other week: Almost certain that this will be a sticky thermostat. I replaced mine a few weeks ago because it took an eternity to warm up and it wouldn't get above 80deg unless caning it. Fuel consumption was poor-ish too. After replacing the stat and o-ring seal it now hits 90deg much quicker than before and stays there regardless of the type of driving I'm doing. A how-to guide can be found HERE I didn't bother removing the dipstick cover, it didn't get in the way at all. However I did remove the connections to the alternator and cable-tie them out of the way. If you're half decent with tools and take your time, you should be fine. Mine needed about 250ml of G12 coolant afterwards to top up. If you get the job done at a main dealer I believe it's quite expensive because they remove the aux belt, alternator and possibly drain all the coolant too.

Yeah that. As westallc has said, the diesels put out a lot more torque than the petrol models, and the clutch seems ok up to around 300lb-ft on those. The petrols don't seem to have too many clutch probs unless the clutch is nearing the end of its life anyway, or has been abused. Stage 1 maps are designed around an otherwise standard or lightly modified car, and give roughly the power figures above. I'm having a stage 1 remap on mine in just over a week along with a Pipercross panel filter (compliments a st1 map nicely and allows better breathing at higher rpm) and a Forge 007p recirc dump valve, because the stock dump valve uses a rubber diaphragm which tends to split after a remap anyway. As far as fuel is concerned, I spoke to Jabba who can do a slightly tamer map if you plan on running it on normal (95ron) fuel. Also the P-Torque map that I'm getting soon is fine on 95ron but still takes advantage of 98/99. To be honest though, I've just ran a tank of 95 through and have got only 305 miles to reserve. On V-power I normally see 340-350 miles. So for the extra 3 quid a tank that V-power costs, you're getting an extra 35 miles anyway, which works out cheaper. Plus you don't get the full-fat 180bhp on 95 octane, you get a semi-skimmed 170ish apparently.

Could also just be the linkages, shirley? I've read a few posts on here about people fearing gearbox woes, some of them couldn't even engage any gear, and it turned out to be the linkages. I would certainly check that before assuming it's something more serious.

Oi loikes em. It's like it's 1985 all over again.

Ahh that makes sense So it's nowt to worry about, which is good, cheers.

Mine does this...why is it exactly??? Do they just run a bit rich, leading to lots of water vapour or something? Mine doesn't go through any oil or coolant so aside from something like a MAF issue, O2 sensor prob or water collecting in the exhaust when I'm sitting in traffic (happens lots) I can't see anything else that would cause it.

Bodge yer a star mate

Not sure whether it will make any difference on the derv, but on my Mk1 Octy vRS this morning I hit the recirc button as per the manual and it cleared the window much quicker. On my Golf TDi though it would take an eternity to warm up. You could always get a power inverter and plug in a hairdryer or something...

I'm pretty sure the one on Bodge's link is already painted

4000 rpm and dump the clutch usually does the trick nicely

That helps loads Bodge, cheers mate. I have an eezibleed kit too, had it for years and only used it once on my old 205 Gti. I could never get it to seal properly on the reservoir so it always chucked brake fluid out all over the shop at a critical moment! I'll be mega-careful with it this time round, hopefully the seals will work better on the Octy... What's the seal/brake pedal prob btw?

Sorry for the sidetrack, but a question for Bodge - did you just leave the reservoir cap on, remove the caliper, then bleed them up afterwards? Did you pressure bleed them or just do it the old fashioned way?

Heh heh, that's absolutely mint that is ...and I don't mean the Fiat!

Pads sticking to the discs is normal, especially if it was raining the last time you drove it. If it's still binding though it may be a seized piston in the rear caliper. Mine are both doing this at the moment to some extent, so I plan on replacing both rear calipers soon.

Does sound like the restarting problem is perhaps the ecu thinking the engine is cold, when it's actually not, and chucking a load of fuel in... However you might also want to consider the maf before going any deeper into it.

I'm sure VW make Skoda 'engineer in' a few more creaks and rattles than the VWs and Audis have....

For what it is, and the potential problems of mixing G12 with anything else (can turn to gel) I would stick with G12. It only costs about £6 a litre so no big deal really...

I think with either of these problems (stat or sender) the good bit is that both parts are cheap if you can do it yourself, and quite easy jobs to carry out. I did the stat and fully expected to have to do the sender too, in fact I have a brand new sender in my garage unused but I'll keep hold of it because sooner or later it will need going in... When I had a failed sender in my Golf it would wander wildly from 70-100deg within a couple of seconds, it was obvious that the coolant temp could not change so much in such a short space of time. At this time of year if the stat is knackered and stuck open it really will struggle to get up to temp even in traffic imho, I still put my money on it being the stat But I can see where you're coming from. On my Octy in 10-15deg ambient temps it would take 15-20 minutes of gridlock traffic before it got up to 90deg. As soon as I was clear or in any other kind of driving it would stick between 70-80deg.