SideshowBob

Ok it's now wired in and all that seems ok. I have to say, looking at the diameter and short length of the pipe to the FPR, I tend to agree with earlier comments that it doesn't seem the ideal place to run the vac pipe from. There's another pipe that leaves the manifold just in front of the pipe to the FPR. I can't see exactly where it runs to so has anyone used this pipe instead? Piccy Next prob is how to get the vac pipe through the bulkhead. I can't see anywhere obvious so the plan is to drill a 10mm hole and feed the hose through a grommet, unless anyone knows an existing location to route it through? Lastly, the hose clips on the small 6 & 7mm hoses...the type that are crimped on..where can I get some of those? What's the proper name for em? Any help appreciated

You're right Rob, it was the red/black not the brown. In my defence it was late and I was tired So is that combination ok to use? And what would I connect the orange/dim feed to, the idea being that it would dim the gauge backlight when you switch your headlights on?

Had a quick look earlier to identify which wires to hook up my gauge to. My gauge is a tinted jobbie that needs a permanent +12v (red) an earth (black) and also has an optional 'dim' (orange) which it says to hook up to the headlamp switched +12v. I'm not sure if I'm going to bother with the 'dim' but I guess I won't know whether I'll need it until I'm driving along at night with the gauge in my peripheral vision - it will be on a dash-mounted pod just to the left of the A-pillar. So I should probably wire that in anyway just so I have the choice. The combination that seemed to work for basic live and earth on the headlamp switch was this: Black/earth: Gray/White on lower left corner of block Red/live: brown on lower right corner of block Can anyone tell me if these will be ok?

Anyone? :'(

Hi all As the title suggests, I've got an ongoing problem on my Mk1 Octy vRS in that moderate throttle openings tend to give erratic boost and lumpy power. At full throttle it's perfectly smooth, it's just the medium throttle openings that suffer from this problem. I contacted mikeholroyd who is being a top bloke and doing a logging run tomorrow night for us. But I want to get some advice on what measuring blocks we need to log? I should mention I have no actual fault codes, and check for them pretty regularly. At the moment, aside from the usual possibility of a split hose or vac leak somewhere, I'm suspecting the following things: - N75 - N249? - Dodgy coil pack somewhere? Is there anything else I should be adding to that list, and if so are there measuring blocks we can use to check for it? Any advice very welcome, this is the first time I'll have done any logging and I'm still learning my way around these engines.

I cleaned my throttle body a couple of months back when I decided to try and cure the surging problem. To be honest it was very clean already, with only a small amount of gunk on the inside face of the butterfly. In my case, it made no noticeable difference, still worth doing though so you can rule it out.

How are you getting on with this one? I'm watching this thread with interest since my stg1 mapped vRS also has pretty much the same symptoms. I've not had much time recently to do any troubleshooting, all I've had chance to do was a fault code scan but there are no faults logged. At the moment it's starting to ruin my enjoyment of the car a bit, since it happens on a light throttle which is where you tend to be most often. My MAF seems sound, it was analysed a couple of weeks ago when I had an emissions issue at MOT time, and was found to be ok. Hopefully I'll be able to do a logging run soon, but I could do with guidance on what measuring blocks to log?

I have the same prob, in fact during winter my wipers would often not work until I'd been driving for about 10-20 minutes :( I removed the motor/linkage mechanism last week and lubed it all up, but it's no better for it. When I split the motor housing apart a load of water came out of it, so I think it's just the motor that's gone. Regardless, I've got another motor/linkage on the way from a breaker.

Is there actually any difference between the BAM and the AUQ SMICs? As far as I was aware the BAM models carried 2 x SMICS which would lead me to suspect they're the same, with just the second IC making the difference.

An hour if it's a job you've done many times before and everything comes undone easily. Otherwise more like 2-4 hours.

Sounds exactly like mine, and there was no prob on recent MOT (at least not on the exhaust unless you count it needing a new cat!!) I knocked away all the loose rust and tidied up the remaining rust to make it look like it was supposed to be shaped like that though. But as others have said the support bar is very sturdy underneath what's basically surface rust. Does your tailpipe now tilt slightly downwards on the right hand side btw?

Does it stop if you increase engine revs a bit? If so my guess would be the auxiliary belt, they seem to squeal like this after a certain age/mileage. If you replace the belt I would stick a new tensioner on it at the same time. It's a pretty straightforward job once you've gained access. You should really get someone else to cold-start it while you have the bonnet already up to see if you can pinpoint it.

Well I got it sorted today at last. I took it to a Votex in Congleton, a really great bunch of VAG specialists who have a lot of enthusiasm for anything VAG. They have a lot of experience tuning fast Audis in particular and are a Revo franchise. It wasn't a cheap day since it needed a new cat, and I was advised to replace the lamda sensor at the same time. Anyway once that was done it was tested again and is now nice and low, well under the CO limit. I think I'll be using Votex again in future, highly recommended.

My car failed the MOT on the fast idle emissions at the weekend, so I need to find somewhere that can log it on VAGCOM and help determine what the problem is. I suspect it will be MAF or the O2 sensor or something like that. I normally use Awesome for things like this, but they are fully booked for over a week, by which time my MOT will be up. :'( So I need to find somewhere else that can do a similar job. Any help much appreciated!

Spoke to my pal yesterday who used to work at VW/Audi and is an MOT tester. He says if the cat is bust, usually it will fail the natural idle test (as the rpm are not enough to get the cat hot) but pass the fast idle test because the cat then gets hot enough. In my case it's the opposite way round so it would point to a sensor. The question is which one!

It was 0.63 at fast idle The prob for me with getting the map checked is it's a 200 mile round trip and a day off work. Not sure what I'm gonna do at this point. Ideally, getting the mac readings logged and possibly swapped for another one to see if it makes any difference. Emissions are such a pain in the backside aren't they! You're chasing an invisible target, and it's not even like I can check them myself to see if somethings worked or not.

40% of engine load, old bean, not engine rpm. At fast idle the load would apparently be about 5% whereas towing a caravan uphill it would be 100% if ya get my drift.

Thanks for the advice guys. I spoke to Will at performance torque and he advises me to get the MAF checked as the first possible culprit. The fuelling map is unchanged until 40% engine load apparently. So I now need to find somewhere relatively local to get it checked and possibly logged. Awesome are fully booked until the middle of next week, does anyone know anywhere in the Lancs area that might be able to help?

MOT went fine today apart from it failing on the emissions. :( The garage were pretty good, they ran some Forte treatment through it in case the engine was coked up a bit, and we gave it a good 20 mile pretty hard run before testing it again, but it was still too high on CO2 on the 2500-3000rpm test. It was fine on the idle test. The only mods I've got are a stage 1 remap, piperX panel filter (done 10k) and a 007p. No changes to the exhaust or a decat or anything like that. Lamda was fine, HC was fine but CO2 is at 0.66% (max 0.30% for a pass). Anyone have any ideas what would cause the CO2 to be high at those revs, but ok at idle?

I'd say you were unlucky mate. I hit a pheasant once at 110mph in my Scooby, apart from a small mark where the beak had hit the spoiler, and plenty of mess underneath the car, there was no other damage. My own theory is that the smooth flat-four warble of the scooby probably lulled the pheasant into a kind of trance state just prior to impact, making it relax just enough to avoid smashing my front valance into a million pieces.

That's the thing right there isn't it... Instinct tells you to shut the throttle but that's the opposite of what you should do. I once made the mistake of letting a friend of mine take my scooby out. He tanked into a corner a bit too fast, he had the power on a bit but not enough, and I sensed he was about to lift off which would've had us in the scenery for certain. I shouted "POWER!" in full Clarkson style at him and he gassed it, the diffs did the rest. Fortunately! As I always used to say, once you back off in a 4wd car, the laws of physics take over. It can only work as 4wd when you're on the gas.

Why are cars like this not around whenever I'm buying :'( :S :S

I also had a scoob, the one thing you shouldn't do (at least in mine) was to back off in a fast turn especially if things got out of shape. It was as simple as, point the wheels where you want to go and keep the power on. Sometimes in a slide you could steer dead ahead and keep the power on and it'd still sort itself out. The guy appears to back off, and apart from the wheels heading ever so slightly in an opposite lock direction I don't see nearly enough lock going on. He must've been gripping the wheel a bit because I always found, when oppo lock was needed, the car practically steered itself anyway! I know it's easy to sit here and judge, but I'm absolutely convinced I got out of an infinitely worse scrape one time on the B&Q roundabout near St Helens :D

Unreal A bit of opposite lock with a bit of throttle is all that would've taken to sort out... numpty...

On a slight tangent, can anyone recommend me some kind of tool tray or socket organiser thingy to go inside my toolchest drawers, preferably one that isn't a complete rip-off? Just had a bit of a garage sort-out and I have to say, I love my toolchest setup. It might only be halfords, and it might only be basic rails rather than roller bearings, but it's still great! You can tell straight away if any tools are missing, and you can just go straight to any tool you need. I can't believe I even contemplated spending the (what now seems) trivial £160-odd quid for it all. Should've done it years ago. Lastly, if anyone is shopping for torque wrenches I can recommend Teng. Shop around a bit and you can get the smaller torque ranges for about 30-40 each. And to be honest I've always found that it's the smaller torque settings that need the precision - the big stuff is less likely to break if you overtighten it so I'm happy to use a cheaper torque wrench like draper or clarke for stuff like that.