Jump to content

Clarke2744

Members
  • Posts

    59
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Clarke2744

  1. Good evening chaps, sorry to re start a relatively old post. Those who have fit aftermarket HID kits, what’s your experience been with regards to MOTs? I’m keen on fitting Projectors this to my VRS, but have just read legislation mentioning no HID kits are E marked, and stuff about needing to fit headlight washers as well. Many thanks!
  2. I had this issue a few months ago. Replaced it with a 'Febi' OE resistor for £15, having discovered the dealers charge £50 for it. Not sure if mine was a dodgy one or not but it got seriously hot (I know they normally get hot!) after 2 days the thermal fuse burnt out on it. Concerned about the likelihood of my car burning out if I fitted another like this, I ended up biting the bullet and bought a genuine one from the dealers.
  3. Thats what I'm concerned about, exactly that. Anyone know if either the goodridge or HEL ones fit better? If they fit the same is there any sort of adaptor to rectify the 'D shape' body work connector issue?
  4. Good morning all, Im wanting to uprate the brake hoses on my 2004 vrs, to either HEL or Goodridge braided hoses. Has anyone had any experience using either of these, is one more preferable than the other or anything like that? I remember reading about the fittings on the end of one of them not fitting desperately well on the Fabia, but having hunted high and low for some reason can't find that post any more. Any advice or experience would be muchly appreciated. Many thanks, Ben
  5. Thanks very much! All sorted now, fortunately was a case of buying a new "bleeder assembly" (1J0721468C) (£35 from skoda) the 'o' rings unfortunately can't be bought separately, and are integral to either the flexi hydraulic pipe (part 26) or the slave cylinder (part 30). However having spoke to a skoda parts advisor, he said that in his time they've never replaced the seals even when taking a gearbox out. Anyway, new bleeder valve bought, fitting was pretty straight forward, case of using pliers to pull out two retaining clips on each end, then sliding the old bleeder assembly off, putting new one on and then bleeding the system. Fortunately could just about do it without removing the battery box, only needed to remove the air intake pipe to the air box for access.
  6. Good evening all. Whilst driving today, my 'clutch' failed - pedal suddenly went straight to the floor when coming to a stop, didn't engage the clutch and engine subsequently stalled. Having had a look under the bonnet at the gearbox area where the clutch hydraulic lines go into the gearbox, if you pull the clutch pedal up by hand, and push it back down fluid sprays out of the hydraulic bleeder valve, at the gearbox end (not the bleed nipple itself). Has anyone experienced this before? - I've had a brief search through the forums, and everything relates towards either master or slave cylinder failure. As said, the pedal stays on the floor once depressed and only returns to normal position if you pull it back by hand. My diagnostic suspects perhaps a failed 'o' ring on the end of the bleeder valve unit, hence squirting fluid when pumping the clutch by hand. Therefore fixed by replacing that bleeder valve unit and bleeding the system(??) Any advice or suggestions would be greatly appreciated!! Many thanks, Ben
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Welcome to BRISKODA. Please note the following important links Terms of Use. We have a comprehensive Privacy Policy. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.