Gerrycan

I was not aware of this option until earlier this week when a young lady at work, who currently wears glasses and is only in her early twenties, told me she is having cataract operations on both her eyes over the next month. She too says she will have individual eyes set for different focal lengths and the brain will work it out. I don't think she drives but might suggest that glasses for better depth perception might be a good idea if she does take up driving a car.

Our 2014 1.4tsi Octavia wagon has only done 117K km but with a lot of very short slow local journeys. Although it still drives very nicely, I feel that fuel consumption is slightly down from when it was brand new. All I really want to do on mine is to get a camera inspection of the inlet valves to see if carbon buildup is to blame and whether some remedial action is required. Do still love the car though and it is now irreplaceable as Skoda no longer sell a manual in Australia.

Every now and then the Australian new car market delivers a limited window on an apparent bargain that demands close consideration, even if the car is not what I would have ever normally considered Over the years the ones that stood out for me were: The first iteration of the Toyota GR86 at a then AU$30,000 (just half it for rough GB pounds so £15,000) The introduction of the Toyota Yaris GR86 locally was a 1000 cars at $40,000 (£20000) drive away (which includes road tax and insurance for a year) was supposed to last 6 months to sell out and it actually only took 2 days. Even the Fabia 2 once had a drive away deal at only $17000, which I still kick myself for not taking up. MG4 was on sale for $30,000 drive away just over a year ago. They have since admitted they were losing over $10k a car on that deal. Then there are some Stellantis vehicles Jeeps, Fiats etc that have lost a huge amount of market share and they take something like $20+k off the initial offer to offload stock, but expressions involving bargepoles spring to mind. The latest one that has caught my attention is the Cupra Formentor VZe which is being offered at $27k off list price with a $43000 drive away deal to offload a large backlog of stock imported too late for a, since closed, tax window. This is the one with the 10kwh battery and 1.4tsi engine and is soon to be replaced with a model with double the battery and the 1.5tsi engine hence the urgency. As a (still casual working) pensioner this is still a fair financial commitment, even if it is a bargain, and for something that is not necessarily as ideal as our current mk3 Octavia which constantly delights with its ability to swallow enormous loads. Recently have picked new chairs and garage racking where the warehouseman has expressed disbelief that the goods fitted inside the Octavia It appalls me that a relatively small battery and electric engine can add nearly 400kg to the vehicle weight (over our car), that is has no spare tyre (a big deal for me on long Australian trips), that the vehicle economy is apparently worse than our car when in hybrid mode (judging by reports on Briskoda for similarly configured mk iv Octavia hybrids). The savings from locally running on electric would not be as great as say the UK where your off-peak rates seem incredibly low compared to ours and our fuel is cheap compared to GB prices. Might have to do some spreadsheet work on this one and it deserves a test drive at the very least.

A couple of weeks ago the 2025 edition of the 3000km race from Darwin to Adelaide concluded in Adelaide and I went up to view the vehicles on public display. There were two classes: The "F1" equivalent "Challenger" class winner finished in just under 35 racing hours at an average speed of 86.6kph The other is the "Cruiser" class, which aspire to carry one or more passengers other than the driver, and the winner finished in 44 racing hours at an average of 68.7kph. The race has been conducted for a number of years but the first time it was conducted in winter (winter below the tropic of cancer anyway). Less sun for power but also less heat stress on the drivers in their pods. Externally there are a lot of visual similarities in the Challenger class to achieve low aerodynamic drag, the allowed 6 square metres of solar panels. The driver is either centrally mounted or offset to one side. Internally there is much more variation depending on whether they could afford a carbon-fibre monocoque or went for a more conservative and cheaper skinned tubular steel frame. The suspension engineering was pretty impressive because maximum speeds could be as high as the 130kph limits in the Northern Territory and also had to survive traversing cattle grids at speed. Aero is so important because they not only need low drag but must have stability to survive crosswinds and gusts from oncoming road-trains. It is all cutting-edge stuff and talking to a couple of the support teams they had their work cut out getting sleep in tents (in the outback), maintaining the cars and then driving all day between obligatory control points. Lots of videos online and a good place to start is: Bridgestone World Solar Challenge 2025

Yesterday's 7km run with 5':30" /km averages, which means I managed to knock off at least 4 seconds per kilometre from recent bests. Didn't think I'd really be able to get back to where I was a year ago so pretty rapt with this. Calves are hurting now which suggests it was achieved with a bit more rebound and less plodding.

The DPF on the diesel could be nearing the end of its life. Frequent posts here for high mileage diesels with poor running and high consumption issues when this happens. It is possible to get a report on the ash content in a DPF. Finding a reasonable car on a lowish budget is a real issue these days.

Just achieved my sub hour 10km target, 10.1km in 58m 28sec. Did not set out to do it, but went out slowly trying to keep my heartrate down (another story), felt good, the weather was really nice, and I thought why not? Probably not as much preparation as I would have liked, so I did find the last 2km quite hard to push through. I won't aim for greater distances, but I will try to make it an occasional target with the hope of making the effort easier and/or a little faster.

Skoda must have better market penetration in your state than mine. No friend of mine has one although one guy I'm on 'nodding terms' with down the road has a Kodiaq. Do you belong to a Skoda club? While it is a temptation to generalise about using 91RON from your experiences you might like to consider there are situations where it might be poor advice. For many years European manufacturers restricted what they sent us due to our poor fuel quality which centred principally around sulphur content. When I first came to Aus near 40 years ago the exhaust literally stank like a New Zealand volcanic spring. Over time fuel standards improved dramatically so that diesel match Euro standards and petrol was substantially improved. Currently max sulphur content for Euro and US petrol standards are 10ppm and Australian are 150ppm for standard (91) and 50ppm for premium (95/98). The VW group identified that vehicles fitted with PPF (petrol particulate filter), now mandated in Europe, could have the unit severely compromised from even one fill of our 91 RON fuel (pure or E10). As far I can remember it was only the Superb 280 4x4 that was imported with the ppf but I really don't know the what the status is now as what cars may, or may not, have a ppf fitted. Most VW group cars of the last decade would have anti-knock sensors, so possible for lower spec engines like 1.0/1.4/1.8 tsi (with no ppf) could run on 91RON without obvious issues but I suspect it may require a few tanks of higher grad fuel before the ECU advanced timing for better performance/efficiency. As to whether it would be noticeable or not? I remember that some of VW group higher spec 2.0tsi equipped vehicles (RS, Type R?) imported to Australia have recommended 98RON with 95ROn as a fallback and definitely not 91. One of Mazda's turbo petrol engines is designed to accommodate 91RON to 98RON (91 RON equivalent is also available in the US), and their blurb said that the 98 RON produced 12kw more in that engine. At the other extreme my 2003 Toyota Echo's manual quite openly says the engine is designed for Australian 91 RON and while higher RON can be used it is pointless and a waste of money.

Like most things in Australia, there can be a little variation on available fuels and the rules governing E10 constituents depending on which state you live in. As far as I am aware, nationally, the E10 uses our base 91 RON fuel with 10% Ethanol added which takes it to 94 RON rating. The issue is not with the ethanol/petrol mix but the fact it is has a slightly lower RON rating (a marginal issue I suspect unless you regularly push the engine to the red line), but more so about the 91 RON fuel having a much higher sulphur allowance than 95+ RON fuels. Not going to be much of a problem with the one-off half-tank fill you did, but not something you would want to make a regular thing. In South Australia our E10 is not allowed to advertise the (nominal) 94RON rating because the pump has a very small sticker on it saying that the Ethanol content is "up to 10%", which means that the RON rating could actually end being anything between 91 and 94. What confuses me more is the 100RON fuel you claim to use: 1) As far as I am aware the highest-octane fuel generally available on Australian forecourts is Premium 98RON. Yes, you can get 100 RON PULP fuel (even 110 RON) but these are racing fuels that suppliers specifically recommend NOT using in standard road going cars as it ruins the catalytic converter. 2) Even more worrying is that you may be using E85 fuels (rated at 105RON), fairly rare on petrol forecourts but can only be used on a very small range of engines and definitely NOT in a Skoda 2.0tsi engine, or any VW engine sold in Australia (unless you imported a model from Brazil). A few years ago, the Australian National Government sort of committed to raising fuel standards to match Europe but has got bogged down with all sorts of lobby groups and it has gone pretty quiet on that front despite their more recent commitment to the NVES scheme to reduce vehicle emissions. Coincidentally, for the first time in over 50 years of motoring, today I started accidentally putting 91 RON in my 1.4tsi Octavia (I use 91 in my other car) but realised after 3.5 litres and went and paid before putting in a further 30 litres of 95 RON.

Post should really be in "General Automotive Chat" section but: New or second-hand, and what model level are you looking at? What features are important to you: ride comfort, handling, entertainment features, panoramic roof, electric seats, lumbar support adjustment (in passenger seat), cloth or leather, air-con or climate control, headlight performance, mostly local driving, or long distance, rear space for family commitments/children/teenagers/elderly parents etc etc.????? What price variation/deals, warranties, servicing packages are available? Location of nearest local reputable dealer for servicing should not be overlooked either. Have you test driven both to make up your own mind? Got comparative quotes from dealers to compare features on similar priced models. If not, then why not as most of the things that could swing your decision either way will be very subjective?

The request is a bit like saying you have a ball of string and asking here how long it is. A lot more information is required from you as to what you are driving. Your profile says you are Australia and your car is 2021 Octavia so with the delay getting new models here in Aus it is questionable whether it is even a mk4.

A mixed bag over the six weeks or so: A couple of days after the above 8km run I came down with a cold, not a bad one, but sufficient to deter me from running for a bit. Resumed with a light load of short, slow distances and built up to 7km again and then I was delighted to have, a good (for me), 7km at 5:34 averages. Then immediately came down with another cold, this time a proper cold, the worst kind, A REAL MAN COLD! First time off work since covid. So, I question whether the effort put into the relatively fast runs lowered my resistance to infection? OR, whether I already had been infected and my immune system had already stepped up resulting in improved times?? Or it was all just a coincidence? Eventually resumed running again with really slow (not for want of trying) 4km run on the weekend, then had a fun pneumonia vaccination on Monday (they are free at my age so why not), eventually felt good enough today to run another 4km today with surprisingly fast 5:32 averages. Maybe that immune system thing again? I'd like to string together a couple of uninterrupted months of progressive training to get to my 10km target but might have to try before my prostate biopsy in September, which will likely cause another two-week training interruption.

I am sure you are well aware that odometer tampering with intent to defraud is illegal. There was no context to the original post so I chose to assume the worst and you being a far nicer person did not. Blame my attitude on constant scam vigilance. The average second hand car purchaser does not have access to ecu values. Still say the post is in the wrong section and should be in the relevant car model.

I presume this has been posted in the wrong section of the forum and there is a whole backstory missing, because all I see at the moment is an admission to illegally reducing a vehicles odometer reading????

Even the basic audio has speakers in the front and the rear so try using the output options to direct the output entirely to the rear. If the issue is still present then it may be the amplifier output playing up. If the issue is addressed then probably front right wiring or speaker.

Our winter weather/work/social/laziness have contributed to a less consistent recent training phase. However, a social media post by my daughter-in-law (full-time work, with a two and half year old) showing her improved running times and fitness over the last year spurred me into venturing out for a twighlight run tonight. After my involuntary tapering I decided to extend my distance to 8km. Went out too fast for the first km so spent the next three recovering and then was able to settle into an even pace. Very happy with 5:36 km averages, which is the best I have been achieving recently for shorter runs. Calves hurt...a lot. Must walk out the lactic acid tomorrow, but my knees handled it comfortably despite the cool conditions.

Hi @m0thm4n , and welcome to the forum. Our Octavia wagon manual 1.4tsi does everything we ask of it and is still a joy to drive after 11 years of ownership.

I'm quite pleased with how things are progressing since being able to string together a few runs in our now cooler weather. My distances covered and speed are slowly improving, but I am not putting too much pressure on myself so that I can enjoy the run more. I have had to correct a previous mentioned running posture problem (stooping and looking at the ground in front of me) and now a new issue with my breathing. Seems stupid, but I actually have had to concentrate quite hard on breathing by using less chest expansion and using more diaphragm breathing. I think both issues were what made my first 'comeback' run a few weeks ago so hard. No wonder I prefer running by myself, it is taking most of my brain power to keep putting one foot in front of the other, conversation is way beyond me. Not sure if it inspirational or just plain daunting when you read headlines like: Canadian ultrarunner Stephanie Case just won the 100-kilometre Ultra-Trail Snowdonia ultramarathon in Wales — six months postpartum, without an elite bib, and while stopping to breastfeed her baby at aid stations. She took 3 years off running to have her baby and just entered the event to test where she was before a more challenging event in July. Incredible!! Me, well I have decided my target this year will again be a 10km run on the flat, and hopefully in under an hour.

Getting older does not make anything easier and I have found myself putting off running due to current high daytime temps/working/health/any excuse really, and then dreading the likely deterioration and pain of resumption after an extended break. I've also been slack regarding my diet and increased my mealtime wine consumption, so I should not be surprised (but I was) that a couple of recent impromptu blood pressure tests have indicated it has risen above ideal levels. Not dangerous but not a trend I want to worsen. I was obviously too complacent that my regular casual and mostly physical taxing work, plus walking two dogs we are looking after twice a day, would be enough to maintain my fitness. So, I have resumed running, just 4 km to start with and by gosh is it slow and has it hurt! However, I can take some solace from the fact that when I started running, about 35 years ago, and did 2km for a short triathlon that I remember it hurt a lot more. It will be interesting to monitor my blood pressure if I manage to maintain about 3 runs a week.

Theoretically both are very economical options but no ICE car really gets good economy unless it can get into the higher gears for most of a journey. If most of the journey is in 4th gear or below then a not so good 32-40mpg, 4th gear and above 40-60mpg The 1.5tsi has more performance potential from the larger capacity but can achieve remarkable economy if driven lightly due to the engine only running on 2 cylinders in low load conditions. It is the smoother of the two and probably the better option if you live in a hilly area. The 1.0tsi engine has only 3 cylinders and is reportedly slightly less smooth of the two. It has adequate performance for normal British roads/traffic/speeds. The .1.0 tsi DSG version does 0-60 in 9.7 seconds (officially) and presume the 1.5tsi is about 8 seconds? You don't say whether you are considering new or second hand? The 1.0tsi could be significantly cheaper to buy and insure, if that is a factor? Test drive both options if possible.

I don't have ACC on my cars but I have noticed on a couple of hire cars that the ACC ran a little closer than I liked. A 100km out of Adelaide the interstate highways go down from Motorway/Dual-carriageways to just an undivided single lane in each direction, bit like the British "A" roads before Motorways. It means if you are following a large truck, or B-double then you don't want to be too close because they could run over a kangaroo/emu/wombat and clear it with their high ground clearance, but which would cause a lot of damage to an Octavia when you run into it. Around 50k kangaroos are killed on Aussie roads a year. I like to allow 3 or 4 seconds distancing here but have to cut it to around 2 seconds or less in Britain, otherwise it's just an invitation for other vehicles to drop in the gap. Impressive economy for a 2.0tsi I filled up tonight and calculated our "since last refuel" average consumption display optimism has worsened by 0.5l/100. So the displayed 5.8L/100 was an actual of 6.3L/100 (45mpg). Which is still not bad considering it is primarily my wife's car. 97% urban environment and 70% peak traffic times.

^^^ That will do it. Not intimidatory drafting I hope. It amazes me how little gap British drivers leave as standard anyway.

Best I have seen claimed for a 1.8tsi. The 2.0tsi engine versions rarely better 50mpg on a run although high 40's is easily achievable. However: a) I'm presuming that this was a relatively exceptional event for you so there must have been a lot more positive than negative factors involved. For instance, when I am rarely holidaying in Britain with a hire car, I get far better consumption on a busy moving motorway than I do on an empty one (the race-cycle peloton effect) b) You have quoted the displayed consumption, which may or not be accurate unless confirmed against actual consumption My now 11-year-old 1.4tsi consumption display used to be pessimistic (consumption better than display) when new but over the years progressed through truly accurate to being optimistic. Today if it shows 5.6l/100 (50mpg) then it is probably 5.9l/100 (48mpg) actual. My odometer is accurate, but the speedo is about 7% optimistic and always has been. I get the unusual situation where the average speed display (calculated by distance and time) is accurate while the digital speed display reflects the analogue speedo inaccuracy. Sorry about the full-on nerdy reply.

Five years is the norm across most brands except a few of the 'elite' which are still three years. Then you get kia and skoda on seven years. The outliers are Mitsubishi with 10 years (if you service annually with them) and MG also with ten years. BYD are seven years but with a lot of caveats on many parts. Host of other Sino brands with long warranties but who knows how long they will be around?

It should not be forgotten that the VAG group did have some difficult times with this engine. When the new WLTP emission requirements came out this engine virtually disappeared from production for about 18 months. When it eventually appeared there were many posts about the cold start kangaroo's issues especially for manual transmission owners across all models. The issues seem sorted now and I would not mind owning one although it is pretty rare here in Australia where the old, but still good, 1.4tsi predominates across new vag group vehicles.