Murdockman

A couple of questions to be asked first, is the battery lead acid or calcium or AGM, just disconnecting the battery and leaving these alone might be the death of the battery if left to long without some sort of charge going in. A mate of mine took his battery off to complete some work, before starting work he turned everything off opened the bonnet just on the first release shut all doors waited until all lights etc went out then opened bonnet and disconnected the battery both terminals, the car was then left idle for 2 months but he did keep the battery topped up with a maintenance charger while working on the car, when he re connected car everything was ok again apart from saved stations on radio but no issues with alarm or starting car, MK2 Fabia TDI 1.9 During lockdown we used a solar battery charger from a caravan site for £26 and just left the panel in the front of the dashboard and run cables out through door and under bonnet passenger side onto the battery we did not use the car for nearly 2 months but it started right away and was locked with alarm on all that time, car was left outside on in a car park

As said sticker in the boot, i found mine on nearside rear under carpet board, but if you have a mk2 with 1.9tdi the discs are the same as a VRS 292mm and 25mm thick, I found my size disc on Textar website brake book I then downloaded brake catalogue and lists the models by year and engine size you also need to know the brake system make on front discs mine were lucas/ trw I found this out by looking at the pads on the car and checking the catalogue to work out what discs were on the car, why because main dealers insisted that i had a Teves system fitted and discs on the rear as i had ABS anti lock system and they said had to have rear discs but there were drums --had the car from new so knew it was correct and car did have ABS on the rear it's in the bearing hub not in the drum.

Removed the window switch from centre console on my Fabia with a plastic tool that looked like a forked snakes tongue and pushed this in at the edge and prise up, then start again at other end the switch then came out, it's held with spring type plastic clips moulder into the frame of the switch (easy to break off), new switch just pushed in easy, should be the same but not sure as I don't have heated seats

All bits need a good wire brush up to remove loose rust, the top of the disc can be cleaned off with a edge of a file against the disc and turn the hub around until all loose rust scales are removed, some fitters will tell you to hit it with a hammer to do this but I would not recommend this way, the pads should have some silicone -anti-seize paste applied to rear of the pads and and where they locate on the carrier frame, also check slide pins as these are usually over looked when new pads and discs are fitted, DO NOT USE COOPER SLIP GREASE, if you look in picture you need to also clean rust scales from the disc just above the pad as this can also cause this noise, not a major issue but will sort that noise out

Two things to look at idle tick over speed should be at least 1000rpm due to the 3 cylinder set up and check all air filter connections for tightness, a common fault from lots of garages and dealerships as they disconnect to work on engine and don't seal them back correctly causing this sort of issue hope this helps--- as others said it is a tad shaky

Hi, don't know if this will help a few weeks ago changed the strike plate and bolts on rear door due to an accident, i used a T40 3/8 drive neilson socket as i found the torx set you pictured was a loose fit and thought it might round off as they were tight to undo, socket and drive bar did the job fine, mine was a 1.9 tdi 2008 mk2 fabia

Most Fabia's alarm modules just send a signal to make a noise to siren, some were linked to the starter to stop engine turning over while alarm was sounding but it seems yours is ok, the key fob is the immobiliser so you could disconnect alarm and drive car with no issues, but don't leave it like this as insurance companies will refuse any claim for any sort of theft if it's not working correctly

Having changed the discs and pads it does sound like the caliper slide pins were not taken out and checked to see if they were free to slide in and out of the carrier, this in turn slightly holds the outer pad against the disc causing this sort of noise, the only other issue might be a wheel bearing which you can check by jacking up car let the wheel run free then grab the wheel and tyre at the top and bottom and try to rock it in and out any movement might suggest the bearing starting to fail thus the noise while driving, but check the slide pins first i have come across 2 this before BUT PLEASE do not use cooper slip it swells the rubbers and will wreck them use silicone grease

Had this issue with my old MK2 and it turned out to be a bad connection on the central locking module, i was also told it could have been the drivers door lock faulty but as i said the unit is under the panel by the drivers side steering wheel, had to remove fuse box on the side drop down the big lower panel above pedals unclipped the 2 units and moved the whole panel out of the way, the module was just above on a metal bracket held by 2 torx screws i unclipped the 2 plugs and that's where i found the corroded connections like if at some time water had got in and caused the rust, i cleaned these up and then sprayed it all with WD40 plugged it back in tried it a few times and seemed ok then put it all back and waited for it to happen again but it never did, car is now gone sorry as it was written off by a careless driver cost to much to repair now have a MK 3 don't know if this will help

Car is 2 years old next year so if it needs a cambelt it would be rather strange, saying that i have full breakdown cover but you usually get a local garage to cover the breakdown, pricing chart seems some what strange as the first oil and filter change at main Skoda dealers just cost £145, price for spark plug change WAS £96 plus the spark plugs, as i said the plugs were costed at £288 for 3 plugs, all websites I have looked at do not list the plugs for a DKRC engine code Fabia MK3 as it's still to new but thought some one on this site might have some useful info about the spark plugs or what spark plugs they were, I did expect them to be around £50 for the set of 3 but not £288 as quoted

Fabia mk3 DKRC engine code 1.0tsi 110ps 2019, was planning a trip abroad next year and thought to get a few basic spares together like spare drive belt etc, went to dealers last week and priced a spare set of spark plugs coming out at £288 for 3 spark plugs.....wtf, this cannot be right oh and that's buying them, if i want them fitted it's another £96 , i have found loads of plugs for the chcz engine code but none for the DKRC model i know they don't need changing yet but thought to carry some spares just in case anyone come across this issue with the DKRC engine

Sorry mate your battery has probably gone to meet it's maker, the cells inside deteriorate when not being charged and the alarm and internal clock drains the battery over time, just starting the car once a week would have been ok or like myself I bought a 12v solar panel charger for £20 or if you have power available a maintenance charger for £18 and just hooked it up to the battery it stays fully charged as normal, you just have to remember to disconnect when starting much cheaper than a new battery

Just a note does anyone know where the fuel filter is on a 2018 Skoda Fabia Estate 1.0 TSI 110 bhp I have had a look and there's no filter where there used to be at the rear near the tank on the side, it's not under bonnet as the fuel pipes come from the tank and go through the chassis at the front and appear in the engine bay, so I'm guessing it might be in the tank ? or is it that obvious that I can't see it

Having had many issues with limp home mode I think I have finally chased it down to the intercooler pressure switch, but has anyone any tips on getting at it I can see it's under the right hand wing at the front and I know I need to take the engine bottom cover off and possibly the arch liner to get at it but it seems to be where the bumper is as well I'm hoping the bumper doesn't have to be removed but can't find any info how to get at the switch I'm just hoping someone on this forum has done this job on a MK2 1.9 tdi Thanks in advance