Murdockman

Yes they should then show up that they are not working but as mentioned the VCD's some times throw a wobble and tell you the wrong side is gone but it might only be one sensor, some one once told me but i have never tried this method you put the car in reverse with ing on then go to the sensor one by one but try to keep out of its pick up area and put your index finger over the round part and you should hear the sensor click, if it clicks it's working thinking about it could be a trick to try the outer ones from the side because yu can stand and reach out by the side of the car and perhaps try the other sensors from inside the hatch area and just stick your arm out, never tried this keep meaning to but always have stuff in the boot and we now have a MK3 estate that has a reverse camera as well as the sensors so not really worred if the sensors pack in the camera is pretty good with the guide lines on the front screen

You might have a problem with a ground as mentioned, also just a tip a mate was convinced his were broken and he forgot to leave the ingnition on and the car in reverse just saying, the multi plug on mine was in the nearside rear in the boot area about a foot or so from the rear boot interior light , the connection some how had corroded inside the plug female part but i manafed to clean it with WD and then used the old favorite vasaline, on mine it was the MK2 but was a 2008/58 plate so don't know if yours might be different, it still didn't work correctly but after this it did bleep when selecting reverse. I did have it checked out and it came back that the sesors on the one side were not working ,they told me it was the off side but once i had taken the bumper off to replace them i was not convinced so used a multi meter on them guess what they were ok it turned out to be the nearside outer sensor that had gone,so it seems the VCD readout worked the wrong way around, I did purchase a genuine sensor whichh was around £80 at the time but was gutted that it only came in black and had to spray it myself, also had to cut the old sensor off and use fibre glass mat to fix the new sensor ion place but i see now people use baking sods and super glue with a little mess looks a better job

I bought a kit for my old Fabia mk2 from a company called HQ they now sell on eBay the car has gone now but when we bought a replacement MK3 Fabia estate i purchaed a kit for that model they cost £25 for the complete kit in 2021, they are still going strong today, I know what you mean as the old MK2 had the same problem buy i fitted a set of rear couresy lights from a VW golf, I did have to cut the roof lining and managed to feed the wiring through to the front interior light which of course was removed from the headlining to get at the connections but you don't need to take it right out just enough room to get at the wires, the rear ones would come on with the front light door opening and if you wanted a constant light the plastic cover was like a rocker switch and could come on as required by who ever wanted he light on, the LED light was quite bright that's why I replaced them all on my newer MK3 which also included the boot light which iso much better than the 5w standard bulb, have had no bulb warning or flickering from these bulbs so it was worth paying that bit extra, just a note for you if you put cheaper led bulb in the boot area it does not totally go out when you lock the car it seems to take a power feed off the same circuit as the lock so when you lock the car the bulb lights up very dimmly you will need to put a resistor on the power line to that bulb --but notwith this kit from HQ it goes out as normal

Sorry out of luck the hatchback model uses a slightly different rear bumper than the estate version i think it's the side parts that attach to the car are longer on the estate version, keep trying you will find one

I bought one of these for my Fabia estate 5j a few years ago from Autodoc at the time it was around £30 for the lens and the led's i had to use the old housing as to renew that it was a main dealwer part only; the only drawback with autodoc is the delivery chatrge --aroung £9.00 and you might wait a week for delivery, i had a look on LLL Parts but the price was rather high for a genuine replacement lens and a set of Led's , I too used ebay but landed up returning them as they did not fit my model which was a MK2 5J estate LLL parts do show you the part numbers if you need them Autodoc just gives you the lens and LED's but the website when you put your details in was correct and it did fit

Correct Platinium tipped spark plugs although not as good as the iridium plugs are suited better to the Skoda range of engines, Denson plugs are fine but don't seem to last quite as long why I do not know they are usually a cheaper option but i have found now that the petrol grade has changed a lot of cars run a bit sweeter with the Platinium tipped spark plugs but they are a bit more expensive but last longer, the iridium spark plugs do run a bit hotter and could possably cause an engine fault, as i said I have the TSI engine and only need 3 plugs these were priced from Skoda at £96 pounds each!!!, they sell on ebay for around £40 to £50 for a set of 3 but i used aliexpress and bought 6 plugs with delivery for £38 so it was well worth waiting a week or so for delivery, they were genuine NGK plugs the same as when the car was new, the old ones when changed still looked good but after 3 years i did change them when i did my own service after the watrranty had run out, wasn't goiung to pay over £400 for a service at the dealers

You will need the correct engine code to get the right switch , try a seach on LLL Parts .com even if you don't buy from them you can usually get the part number and try a seach for that part, the only downside of LLL parts is the delivery cost they charge £3.00 for a small order itenm then £8.95 delivery charge as it is usually from Germany and you might wait upto 2 weeks for delivery, you will also need a re gas of the system but a decent garage usually tkes the gas out holds it in the machine then replaces it back in the car of course at a cost, blaming the car by sayingg i'll never buy a Skoda again us a bit foolish come on over ten years old, you made the fatal mistake taking it to the dealers as I have said on here before once out of warranty avoid the dealesr at all costs they just rip you off The problem you had with the AC is mainly your fault as you should run the air con at least once per month in summer and winter to keep the pump and the pump clutch in working order, it also keeps the air seals soft as once they dry out you will loose the gas out of the system, I have a TSI 3 cylinder engine in our Skoda and found the Platinium tipped plugs the best and they last around 4 years before needing replacement , sorry not much help but there it is

Didn't block my EGR on my 1.9 Fabia but had the same sort of issue is the engine management coming on when you get the power loss? At first mine would loose power and no engine light would come on, turn the car off start again it was fine, then it started loosing power and the management light would come on, again turn the car off and start again and it was fine light went out , it kept getting more often then the light would not go out car was still running but as you said power loss The issue i had on mne was the actuator unit on the turbo , it was faulty but only at certain times would it fail to work correctly, tried a few things fist before finding this out IE turbo pressure pipe leaks sensors etcalso cleaned the turbo out but none of these worked, I bought a actuator from ebay it was new but not VW genuine swapped that out and never had any issues after that

Mostly they are checked by plugging in an OBD reader to find which sensor is faulty but this can be confusing as a while ago a friend told me he had his checked and it was the right rear sensor that was faulty, that was changed but it did not cure the fault, it then turned out be be the other side so the OBD read out was working backwards in this case, You might want to try this first before anything, it worked on a Seat Leon i owned, put the car into reverse turn the ignition on and then shut the door, go around the rear and start at one side put your index finger lightly on the centre of the sensor then move it out then back onto the sensor but try doing this at arms length so you body doesn't get in the way, you should hear a faint click from the sensor, if it does not ckick it's faulty try some more WD and hold a rag below not for it to run down the bumper, I had to replace one of mine on said Seat it entailed taking the rear bumper to get at the sensors could not get at them from underneath, I then had to cut through the old sensor bracket as it seemed to be all part of the bumper but just cut enough to remove the sensor and left the bracket part still on the bumper part once the bracket was cut the sensor pushed out, the new one was nearly £90 at the time and i had to colour match it to the bumper as it was black i used some araldite to fix the sensor back to the bracket but i see now people are using super glue and baking soda to achive a bonding glue

I did change one of these a long time ago on one of the early 1.6 TDI engines if i remember the senor/switch is located looking from the front under the lift bracket near the rear of the engine on the left hand side could not get a socket or spanner on it as the engine lift bracket was getting in the way I think i took the top plastic cover off but again not sure it was a long time ago i remenber i had to buy a set of triple head torx to remove the bracket bolts again not sure but it was quite fat might have been a 40 or 50 and then removed the bolts and bracket i could then get a 24mm ring on the switch t to get it out, i'm not 100% sure but the person that owned the car told me they had already changed the oil pressure swich but it was near the oil filter housing on the right side of the engine, but as it turned out this wasn't the issue it was this hard to get at switch that had gone, changed that and no oil light warning when out when started up and running

Had this issue with a mates car and it was a bad connector in the loom, for some reason at some point water had got in and the connector and was corroded, tail lights worked flashers reverse light fog light all ok bar the stop lights did not come on but as yours the high level light came on but no light on dash problem, his was under the drivers side rear behind the panel managed to get at it without removing the whole panel, just a thiught i bought some bulbs from a retail outlet once and they didn't work untill i messed around with them in the holder it seems some bulbs just have like two spots to contact and others have a longer pear like shape contact, i went and found the pear shaped ones and they worked straight away

If I rember the part you need is a 06A99081T oil pressure switch which is around 20 30 pounds for a genuine part you might get one cheaper in a different make, not 100% sure on your car but mine was looking from the front of the car just where the exhaust shield goes then up the side it's fitted in the head, it has a 2 wire blaclk plastic connector it's hard to see but is there had to use a ring spanner on mine as a socket is not deep enough, a little tip put some rag under the switch as a little oil comes out when you remove it like i said not 100% sure with your model but worth a look

That's not correct looking at it the picture who ever has fitted this strut has not made sure the bracket was in the housing and by forcing the damper/strut tube into the housing has bent the bracket out the lower hole you can see should be where the pinch bolt goes through the strut bracket and the hub housing therfore they might have tightened the clamp on the housing up that much to try and pinch the tube it could be possable they have damaged the new tube stut, most decent mechanics use a tool to widen the strut housing where it's split in the casting to allow the bracket to slide into the housing then be tightened up, if by chance you took thiscar to a decent MOT garge this would fail as this is not fitted correctly honestly why a garage fits one strut beats me they should be relaced in pairs like brake pads discs etc for safety reasons but that's your choice if you only asked for one to be done

If you have the new part available the easy way to replace the hose is get a 5 litre can cut the top off it poition it under the hose in the gap and cut thriught the hose with a hacksaw the cut off can will catch most of the coolant, then again cut a nother bit out so you have a gap in the middle of the hoose remove the clips might be the spring type so a pair of plumbers pilers would help and then you have enough room to pull the broken pipe off , when fitting the new pipe if you just smeer a little washing up liquid on the inside of the new hose it will go on the fittings much better don't forget to put the clips on the pipe first, best to top up the system with a ready mix or you could use the fluid you saved as long as thee are no bits in it if you need new coolant to top up you must use the correct sort that suits vw as using any other coolant can lead to water pump failiure later on

As breezy pete said you might have a miss match here, the oil filter housing from the petrol engine version is different to the diesel version for this model its down to the engine code as the petrol one is HTP and the diesel one is CFWA, looking at the caps on LLL parts it seems the cap was replaced by a newer version with an "A" added on the end of the part number, looking at Skoda parts there seems to be a cghange in parts from December 2012 onwards so it could be possable the part you checked might be wrong or the housing might be from another year fitted on this car perhaps not from new but by the previous owner or garage that has serviced it, it might be better to buy a complete unit housing to solve this issue in the long run

Might be the cables going to the side runners in the lower frame for the window that are sticky and are to hard for the motor to over come had this issue on a mtes car, we took the motor and runner frame out, BEWARE make sure you support the glass at the top (window closed) before taking it out of the bottom u shaped clamp part of the frame support othwise the glass will drop down into the door and could smash, we then removed the motor tested the motor and it would run no problem then we tried the runners and it was the cables that were stuck, didn't bother trying to free it up just bought a used unit from eBay think it was £35 and fitted the motor to that also noticed that the felt runner in the door frame was also very dry was going to use WD40 but thought that might swell the rubber parts so used a spray called GT85 maintance spray and this seemed to work fine

Mmm sounds like a plan there I do have a small portable vice and once the air turbo pipe is out of the way I to could try this crushing to get the old unit away from the wire connections it's worth a try, not doing it yet but will keep that in mind thanks never thought of that

Replaced mine on both sides with the Audi TT solid bushes, although not listed for the Fabia MK3 they do fit but need pressing in, I used a universal kit from the bay around £25 but can do lots of different sizes, the car feels a better ride but the only downside we have noticed if you are in a higher gear say 3 rd and you are going a bit slow 20 mph ish and get to a hill when you put your foot down to keep at that speed you get a bit of noise vibration , it's just like you are in the wrong gear but once the speed goes up to say 30 mph it's fine, you do get used to this and either go faster or change down to 2nd I have now noticed that the newer type control bushes are not slotted right through like my old ones but have cut outs on the top and bottom of the rubber part, I think you need to put them in the arm in a certain way depending on which side you are replacing, for now I'm leaving the solid ones in as so far it's passed 2 mot's without any probems from the solid bushes and now we have just slightly adjusted our driving style to not get the noise vibration, we are in Wales so 20 is a real pain, at 30 in 3rd uphill it's fine no vibration noise

Paid with my debit card, but the issue here is proving that the parts were broken before taking it to the dealers that's the main issue, I have purchased a new Turbo pipe adaptor pipe brand new £22 and also been able to get from LLL parts Germany replacement new coil plug connectors they were £12.63 plus shipping, i purchased the VW type tool for taking the wires out of these type of plugs for just under £10 so when the plug change comes around again I will replace both the adaptor plug and pipe , at the moment both seem fine and are working ok, the dealers did get back to me and said that they now can get the replacement engine wiring loom which would have the 3 new coil plug ends fitted but they want me to pay upfront for the loom as it's a special order ----£243 for the loom and £53 for the turbo pipe adaptor, both of which I have already purchased at a cost of £32.63 plus the £10 for the tool so in all £42.63 I can if I wish get another garage to fit these parts but I will probably do it myself ater on when I'm feeling better

Yes a vinyl wrap requires a flat surface other wise it does show the defects, a paint shop near where I live used to supply a mixed paint colour in thier own rattle can in 500mm quantaties so you got a good decent spray, if you clean the nozzle after a few passes it should work ok, the problem these days is the colour cans for the car are small cans unless it's black or white so you don't get the volume to spray a decent area with out problems, why not try a electric spray gun? might work better than the small cans but again you need to get the paint mixed and thinners

You could try a polish/compound called frecklar it's a cutting compound normally used in the trade for bringing paitwork back from cars/vans that have had transferes on them, it might be worth investing in a polishing buffer tool to help you out, if it does not work you could like I did with my old MK5 Corinta is flat it down untill it's a matt finiish then clean and tack cloth it and use a simular pait colour and you could hand paint it or get it sprayed, mostly the prep costs the most so doing ths your self could save you quite a bit, I re sprayed mine myself I hired a commpressor and gun bought under coat and finish colours paint and thinners and did it in a mates garage turned out ok you soon get the hang of spraying, I have also seen some one use rattle cans but that can work out expensive depending on how many panels you want to spray, years ago i hand painted a car with a paint called re-paint and did the big panels with a gloss roller and hand painted thesmaller parts from a few yards away you would not know the difference but that's your choice

On my old MK2 Fabia estate the rear bumper was as yours damaged by a rear end shunt, It was a bit harder getting a replacement as mine had the rear parking sensors like yours, the only info i can give you is that you need a rear bumper from an estate version of the Fabia as the hatch version is smallaller and does not fit, you van fit new parking sensors but they are over £80 each from the dealers , the retro fit type don't work with the system on the Fabia, you can try and get yours off but they are moulded brackets and they break when trying to remove them from the inside of the bumper , there is a video on u tube on how to remove the rear bumper and as I found it's handy to have some one helping you to pull the bumper off and re-fit ,another tip before tighening the bolts for the bumper up try the rear sensors and make sure they are working as when i did mine nearly finished it and tried the sensors only to find that there was one pin in the connector pushed back and had to loosen the whole lot off to get at the connector to sort it out , looking at the damage why not try a bodyshop? most of the might come out with a decent sucker and hot water ?

I had this on my Fabia and found out it was an outside temp sensor some cars have them in the passenger side window as well, there should be a slot it slides into on the side by the radiator but I did see one attached to the plastc with a zip tie

Sounds like you have removed the pad lining so this might also cost you a set of discs as well, it beats me that they only put one pad wear sensor on the front and none on the rear, recently had an issue where as the rear disc brake stated making a grinding noise we drove home and on inspection the outer lining on the pad had delaminateed so car was braking on the metal backing pad when the other pads were checked there was a good 5 mm of pad left on them it looked like a bad bonding of the lining which was reported to Skoda but because it had been serviced by myself they were not interesyed so won't be buying genuine disc pads from Skoda dealers again now using mintex pads oh and yes the slide pins were NOT stuck nor the caliper piston all free and working as every 2 year pad change they are stripped and re-greased , the pads in question were 14 months old and had covered around 13 000 miles, i did take them back to the Skoda dealers I bought them from but as I had lost the reciept they were not interested and did say 12 months or 12000 miles warranty only but not great for a set of pads that cost over £85 a set

Just checked my records bought this cover from Amazon cost £7.99 brand new made bya firm called Deiustfhe--car cover-plate part number 6RD815391 for a Skoda Fabia fits my MK3 cabin filter housing it's exactly the same part that came off it