Murdockman

Open bonnet and remove one of the rubber caps at the rear of the headlamp, pull off the connecting plug that goes to rear of the bulb, if there are only 2 prongs on the bulb these are H7 bulbs, if thee are 3 prongs on the bulb these are H4 bulbs, my old MK2 had H7 bulbs and dipped was achieved by a flap in the headlamp, bulb retaining clip is a real pain to remove it clips on the headlamp bulb fitting and you have to press it towards the front of the car and inwards at the same time to release it

One rear reversing light and one rear fog light standard fitting for most models these days, But on my old MK2 Fabia Estate 09 I fitted a light cluster on the passenger side from a left hand drive model Fabia which has the holes and fittings like the right hand drive model, a few extra wires run from the other unit for reversing and fog later and we had a 2 reversing lights and 2 fog lights, not that concerned about the fog lights so much but reversing lights were a lot better at night when reversing where we were, light unit was purchased from Skodaparts.com and specified a left hand drive rear cluster

Most cars when running put out around 13.5v to keep battery topped up and when battery reaches this voltage alternator adjusts voltage not to charge any more, the voltage you have shown is ok but should be around 13v when running so could be a fault with the alternator circuit have you at any point before changing the battery loaned your car to some one to jump start another car or have you done this yourself as most people CANNOT do this job correctly and land up damaging the charging system, this also presents its self with the battery going flat as circuit is faulty and drainging battery, the only other thing is there some thing running after car is locked? boot light etc

No specific interval for water pump, but always use the correct anti freeze as some pumps will fail with the wrong type on certain models and as said you will soon know when the chain needs to be looked at, my only advice is keep your oil changed every year and only before this if you go over the mileage interval, this keeps the chain and engine parts in in good condition

Before going to a garage please check the air filter pipes and clips to see they are seated correctly i have seen so many issues like this were people change filters etc and do not seat pipes and the clips properly after, some garages just loosen and retighten pipes and clips and then car runs ok but charge you a fortune for many items "that were faulty"

Some issues can be also down to the clutch release system sticking but it seems in your case you have fried the clutch plate a bit, if you had a prior issue with selecting first gear this sometimes points to the pressure plate starting to fail as it's not fully releasing from the plate and not fully putting pressure on the whole of the clutch plate when pedal is released if you drive up a hill in 4th-5th gear and accelerate quite hard the car will either go faster or force the clutch to start to slip so if car revs increase but car does not go any faster up the hill your clutch is ready for changing, we always tested a clutch by selecting 4th or 5th gear fully apply handbrake increase revs to around 1100 rpm and try and pull off, if car stalls straight away the clutch is pretty good if there is and drag or slip time before stalling the plate and usually the pressure plate are at fault and at some point will need to be replaced, I would never just replace any one of these parts always as a set

Is this on both sides or 1 as my friend had this issue and it was the spring cracked right at the top of the mount under the wing no noises or any other issues apart from the tyre wear, he had control arm bushes new track rod ends and a new hub bearing fitted but tyres still went the same way, you would not have believed it until the spring was removed from the car and could then see the fracture on the last coil part which was opening out on driving it seemed to changed the camber of the wheel thus causing this sort of damage, if tracking was this far out you would notice the way the car handled

If you are replacing the 2 springs they might be ok but to be honest my nearside spring broke at the top and when i looked at the replacement springs available i plumbed back to buying a good quality set of springs that were £120 for the set from skodaparts.com, they use genuine suppliers that also supply the group you can buy different ones on this site depending your budget , changing 1 spring of a different make would not be advisable

Upgrading battery to a larger cranking amp will make no difference at all, the only thing that might have happened is that you might have disturbed one of the air filter pipes when doing the swap, tick over on most diesel engines should be around 900-950 rpm otherwise the anti stall will start to come in and cause a slight surge in the car when it's going to stall, this is present on most diesels as when it does stall it creates a large bang unlike a petrol engine

Check the control arm bushes as they squeak as they start to fail , if you find it's them have them changed to Seat Cupra control arm bushes which are solid are much better than the Skoda ones which have the gaps in and need replacing every 2-3 years once they have been done, Cupra ones last for many years stiffen the suspension up and improve handling, they are more expensive to buy but it's worth it in the long run as you save on labour charges

It does sound like the belt is to tight which should not happen normally happen, sometimes the drive belt can also be to tight you need to check tension on drive belt first should be able to turn belt half a turn sideways on the longest part of the belt with a bit of resistance, if at all possible you could remove this belt and see if noise goes away, if still there you need to get cam belt checked out as some garages don't change the tension pully and bearing when changing the cam belt and just cut half the old belt off then push the new belt on the pullies and finally cut the old one right off and then push new one in place, which would then make the new belt to tight as the tensioner takes up the slack on the old belt as it stretches, you really need to check if these parts have been fitted as if not the belt could snap leaving you with a very big bill

This seems to be a very good answer as our MK2 had this issue and i was in the process of checking the problem out when a very kind soul smashed into the passenger and rear door, car was deemed a write off due to cost of repair, 2 used replacement doors later 1 rear door with all my parts refitted and 1 front door with window motor switch and door handle refitted and no further problems, the only part that came from the other car was the door lock and internal wire loom so it does seem the lock was the issue with the alarm and door open light as after these parts were fitted all issues went away strange

Had this issue with a mates car different make and it transpired that the ABS ring on one of the drive shafts was corroded and dirty, when we checked this out there was a lump of rust stuck between the 2 slots on the driveshaft joint ring, did not show on ABS fault when starting or travelling, a good clean and wd40 later and the light stayed out, i have also know some cars to have this issue due to a faulty brake light switch and also a loose ABS block connection, i heard one story of a guy having this issue and when he replaced his battery the fault disappeared proper x file stuff there

Make sure before pushing piston back remember to check fluid level in the master cylinder if nearly full put a cloth around filler neck to catch fluid if needs be, loads of people do both sides and after completing one side forget to pump the pedal to get piston out and when they push the other in the fluid becomes to much for the master to hold and spews out all down bulk head not good, when changing the rear brakes i always found it easier to take the hub off out of the way as it's so much better when trying to put the brakes back together, also check rear cylinders for leakage they are very prone for this

Mainly the resistor fails on the motor a mate of mine some how by passed the resistor but it just blows full blast when turned on, as he said what a pain in back side to try and change the whole unit, heads up there's a vid on you tube mk2 blower replacement but it's a left hooker looks a load of work sorry my friend good luck hope you can sort

If you download a brakebook from "textar brale technology " you will find the discs and brakes for the model you require, i had a mk2 1.9 tdi and dealers kept telling me i had Teves brake pads with 256mm discs but in fact there were 292mm discs and lucas pads which this brake book suggested for the model and year, give it a try you can gleem some info from here and you don't have to use textar parts but they were the only retailer to supply the coated discs like vw parts and pads were very good quality also

Can be a faulty connection between the door and pillar hinge side, some times the connection gets corroded and causes all sorts of issues, try this first before anything else, the best way to get at it is take the door stay off--remove the bolts so the door can open wider than normal pull back the rubber cover then unclip the connector and give it a good clean with WD40, when i did mine and then put some petroleum jelly on the socket end and plug end before clipping them back together, my issue was the door not locking correctly and this sorted the problem out for me

If you want to get it back you could just take the 2 rear bolts and 4 of the rear torx screws out and pull the cover down just enough to see if you can get it back, or option 2 as others said leave it there but hope it doesn't go on exhaust as it will smell bad

Tail gate rear doors and panels are different on estate models to hatch backs, front doors are the same

Don't know if this will help you, had the window/ locking/ unlocking. indicators flashing issue with my MK2 after the screen was badly replaced and and started to leak and water got into the control module for the central locking which was located just above steering wheel slightly to the right hand side on my model, I think some are also located just below steering wheel in the footwell area, you might have to check that out, had the module replaced i seem to remember it cost around £100 at the time but stopped the windows opening and locking unlocking when travelling and parked up, also had the screen replaced again by a different firm ,insurance took the issue up with the first firm that messed up the job but cost of module came from my pocket as they said could have happened at any time

Just a point of interest that i found out yesterday that on the MK3 the windscreen wipers will not operate when the bonnet is open or on the safety catch, must be to stop damage to arms and bonnet when open, never had this on any other car before so wipers not working could also be a fault with bonnet catch

Thanks for replies but checked all fuses linked with washers front/rear and changed them but were not blown, using VW recommended screen wash now at 100% so covers down to minus 15c but today got fed up of trying to keep screen clear so bit the bullet and started step by step checking myself as dealers did not want to know and said would be around £180- £250 to fix in around 2-3 weeks time due to covid problems !!! time i understand but £250 to fix a washers pump that's taking the **** After a bit of testing with meter i found that the fuse connection for washers at the rear of the fuse box was hanging off it looked like it had never been pushed right into the fuse box from new and must have been making contact until the other day just happened to loose connection at that time strange but it does happen, i had to move fuse box down and then push the one side of the connection back into the box, i tried pulling it back out but it's solid and i then pushed the fuse in and it did not move then i tried the washers and hey pesto they stated working again total cost of repair one set of cold hands sorted

Hi all have a MK3 Fabia 1.0 TSI 110 bhp 2019, front and rear washers been working fine but since a very cold night a few days ago they don't work, running around 80% screen wash which suggests won't freeze until around -12c,, coldest temp recorded -6c at night, have checked fuses still intact but confusing in handbook as there are 2 fuses used depending on model.....number 31 or number 22, the 31 fuse location also supplies fuel pump cruise control and said washers, cars without active cruise control use number 22 fuse which is also intact but our model has active cruise control so is number 31 in handbook, cannot quite see where water tank for washers are but have used the car for 2 days now and still no washers working, no sound from pump and no water leaking, wanted to test wiring but cannot see where the pump is located must be under plastic covers but car is still under warranty and not sure if messing with this will cause an issue but dealers are not doing any work at the moment so was wondering if anyone else has had this problem on the MK3 Fabia

Not sure anything else is on this circuit but a friends car had an issue the same and it was a faulty cap, when we broke it apart there was +a brass type ring that had come off the plastic and was resting on the contacts allowing the circuit to complete, one used cap from a breakers later and problem solved, if it's getting on your nerves you can always pull one of the wires off and just keep a eye on the level like we all did for many years before fancy lights came out

Had water come in my estate MK2 through the rear tail gate lights sponge padding had rotted and was allowing water into the boot area, bought 2 replacements and sorted the issue out for me