Murdockman

Correct, but as usual it comes down to "not our fault issue" That cover you mentioned can be bought on eBay as I bought one for my Fabia due to one pf the sliding clips being forced off and was not holding correctly, again this happened when the car went into the dealers for it's 2nd year service and the pollen filter was replaced, I noticed it was broken when I checked to see it had been replaced after the service as I have been conned by this old trick before saying something was replaced but hasn't ,what also got me was the air filter shoiuild have been checked or replaced after 2 years ---they had bot even looked at it as the cover and bolts still had dust on them, it was a bit dusty but a quick blow through with an air line cleaned it enough to last another year but no thanks to them

Seems that because i cannot prove the condition of the parts before taking the car to the dealers and they also are saying it could be fair wear and tear they will replace the parts but i have to pay for the parts , the turbo pipe connection is £53 from thier stock and the wiring loom would have to be a complete replacement job the exact price is not available but they quoted anything from £100 to £300 if they can get it, I can get the turbo pipe connection brand new £20 it's the wiring loom connection plug for te coil pack not yet seen a replacement but did find a repair connection 4 pin plug with wires and heat shrink self fit for £25 so it seems thats the answer for me , and as I said won't ever use the monkey dealers again

Due to a back and hip problem i needed to get my spark plugs replaced in my 2019 Skoda Fabia 1.0 TSI (DKRC) 110 BHP, normally I would do this job myself and now I'm peedd off with the dearlrship monkeys, they did replace the the spark plugs at a staggering cost of just under £200 but they have caused damage to go with it, they have broken the turbo boost pipe adaptor clip and also damaged numbr 1 coil pack conecion plug the clip is broken off on that as well , I did return it the next day as I was to ill to check or drive the car home from the dealers, they have now said because it was taken away they will not accept any fault or damage to the car so the clip on on the turbo pipe can be re[laced with a new whole part which is around £20-£30 but it's the coil pack connector that is the issue does any one knoew the part number for a replacement plug or kit that can be used, ever time I search it comes out with a coil pack not the plug on the wiring loom, I don't even mind splicing a used clip into the loom or demouting the cables and then replacing the plug itself , at the moment the clip is holding and the plug although part of it is missing still holsds solid but not sure in the future if it will stay clipped once removed, this is the last time i ever use a dealers they are useless monkeys

When you say coupling rod do you mean the drive shaft?, i have seen this problem once before and it was a worn and dry inner cv joint had to remove the drive shaft and strip down the inner joint gave it a good clean and could then see the inner casting of the joint had a wear ring and when you went over a certain angle it sort of jumped into that postition, it would go left or right like if it was sprung once yo moved it past the centre position the inner joint was replaced but i did advise my friend it might have been better and cheaper to replace the complete driveshaft as the outer CV had done the same amount of milage

What colour is the smoke coming from the from exhaust ? black, blue, whitish like steam ? all have different symtoms and repairs please advise what engine code if you know it as some models have generic faults so this can help

Does this seat base have a support leg fitted to the front of the base? the seat we had was a Joey and that said it would not fit our old MK2 estate but it did all we had to do was make sure the leg at the front was really tight on the floor any normal mats take them out and put to one side to put back in later, all we did was ensure the base is pushed in hard on the isofix before extending tthe leg (if fitted) I'm not sure if it does have one but if it does i see no reason why it might not fit, the main issue they say it doesn't fit is the fact the seats are on a slight slope but we never had any issues with the Joey 360 seat and when our granson was bigger we used it as a normal way around seat until he got to big for that seat

This again depends on your use, if you are on short trips etc perhaps thinking of winter tyres might be an option, on my old MK2 1.9 TDI estatre I found the Avon v7 tyres quite good although a summer tyre the wet grip was an A and lasted pretty good for mileage Goodyear tyres are also good I found Falkin tyres pretty good but the wet grip was not great in the wet so went bavck to Avon, the car when new had Bridgestone tyres fitted they were ok good wet grip but did not like the feedback when dribving a bit fast, it all depends on your budget there are many tyres around to pick from but I usually go for the best wet grip as these seem to transfer to pretty good grip in the winter time, I usually keep a pair od car snow socks in the boot for winter and these have got me out iof trouble in the snow quite a few times rather than buy winter tyres and then suffer them in the summer/warmer weather most winter tyres are a bit noisy and not good for road holding when its dry, some people have winter tyres on steel rims ready for the winter but I never went to that extreme

Before you start checking the wiring check that the sensor is working correctly as it may be just some thing as simpla as a bit of grease or dirt in the front drive shaft sender plate that the sensor picks up from on the CV joint clean that firstly then if you have a multi meter or can borrow one jack up the front side you think the problem might be and remove that wheel, put it out of gear so that the wheel can turn it's easier to do and get at the sensor connection, set the meter on the test setting so when the two probes are touched together they show a zero on the screen or the meter sounds a little bleep , put the probes into the disconnected sensor on the hub as if you were testing a cionnection for power and earth and then turn the hub the meter should if all is fine show zero then nothing zero nothing and so on that then tells you it's working ok , if the cables are faulty you need to then test again from the connection to where ever you can get at the connection the other end usually a multi connection but cannot help you here have always found the fault in the hub sensor or it's been rusty or dirty----------Sorry just noticed it was a rear wheel slightly different as the sensor is harder to get at as it's in the back of the hub you cannot get at the sensor ring on the rear without taking the hub off the spindle the sensor is it the rear undernesth the car i think it's held in by a 8mm otr 10mm bolt it's hard to get out if i remenmber the connections for these are in the middle of the rear beam up on the floor pan

Not 100% sure if the VRS is the same rad as my old MK2 TDI but I took the under tray off and the radiator drain was on the nearside bottom of the radiator I removed the expansion tank filler cap first and I did use a hose and flushed out as much old coolant as possable, just to add I did this with the engine cold, I used the correct fluid from VW as a friend who works for VW told me that the pump impeller will be damaged if you use normal coolant from an outlet like halfords unless it has the correct spec for VW engines the fluid i bought was expensive but never had a problem after renewing it, if I rember I think I used 3 litres and then just topped up with water but I did use distilled water much more pure no chemicals in it, checked strength after and it was well over 50% good for our winters

Don't panic 500mm after a 200 mile trip is not that bad for the age of the car, it can some times just be the oil scraper rings a bit clogged or stuck and allowing some oil to burn off have some one rev the car and take a look at the rear of the exhaust any blueish smoke will show you that you might have a problem, the most common cause are the valve stem oil seals but you can also check these by running the car on idle for 10 -_15 mins then get some one to rev the engine to around 2_3000 RPM like a quick blip on the throttle while looking at the rear exhaust if you get a puff of blue smoke and then it clears that points to worn oil seals on the valve stems, , you can also check if the engine is pressuring up by taking the oil cap off while it's running and if you get whiteish smoke rising up you might have a blocked breather or as said worn rings allowing pressure to enter the engine block but again this normaly leads to oil leaks from different places , last resort is a compression test on the cylinders if they are all even then it might be a worn set of rings but normally anything around 160 -170 psi is ok not an expert but it's things like this I learned from many years working on different carsI have even seen people use an oil additive to stop excessive oil consumption it's a persona; choice that's up to you

Yes it sounds like the bearing is starting to go but make sure your disc and caliper is free as I once had an issue with sticky slide pins and this was causing the noise but in fairnes you will normaly see the pad wear on that side different from inner and outer pad, if you do this job your self you will need a puller set for this model plus of course the new bearing/hub don't buy the cheap ones they don't last, get FAG or SKF hub bearings are a bit more expensive but woth the extra in the long run, make sure the hub has 45 the ABS ring attactched as some hubs don't have them as they are for different year models without ABS but the hub will fit this model it's always best to remove the ABS pick up before removing and then put it back after the new hub is fitted again you will need the kit to do re fit the bearing hub NOT taking the Senor out will result in damage to the sensor I have always fitted a pair of hubs as you might replace the one side but the other side won't be far away, it was a lot cheaper buying the kit from ebay buying the hub and doing the job myself as a garage price was around £350 Just to add always replace the drive shaft locking nurt when refitting, there's a vidieo on you tube that you can watch how to do the job if you are interested and also shows you how to use the kit

Have now found out how to remove this panel it is held by 3 large push in studs like the door panel ones but the wiper arms also nee to be removed to take this panel off, I manged in the end to just move each end up enough to allow a ring spanner 21mm in and a short 7mm allemn key to hold the strut centre while i slackened the nut off to allow the strut to be removed both struts were replaced with Sachs gas struts fitted new bearings and rubber mounts the top hat rubber mount was also replaced but bought these from skoda parts as originals were nearly £30 each side but had the 2 for just over £10 for the pair bump stops and dust covers were also re[laced but used the original springs as they were in very good condition no rust and even still had the paint markings on them, had the tracking and suspension aligment checked had to have a slight adjustment but wasn't far out seemed a bit of a hard ride at first but now it's getting back to when we bought the car new

This is correct there is only one rear reversing lamp and one rear fog light on the MK2 models, a few years ago I did a bit of a swap around for a friend who wanted 2 rear fog lights and 2 rear reversing lights by purchasing a rear lens cluster lamp for a left hand drive model from Skoda parts .com for him (new) then took out the whole lens and fitted the left hand drive lens uniy instead had to get 2 bulb holders and then wire them up from the other light unit could not find any spare connections in the loom fitted on the car but was not that hard to run a few wires across, why he wanted this I do not know but was happy when it was done

Skoda Fabia MK3 !.0 Tsi SE L 2019 facelift model has anyone taken the plastic panel / tray/ trim off that goes acrross the front of the car under the bonnet that covers the strut tops and goes onto the front winscreen ? they seem to be in two halves and will unclip from the sides and lift up but seem to to fixed ontop the car just under the windscreen, there are round type rings but cannot prise these up so not sure if they are press fit or a screw underneath and did not want to force it just in case it breaks as this part although only a bit of plastic would cost many pounds to replace, it also looks like the windscreen wiper arms need to be removed to allow this panel to come up but if i can get it loose i'll just try taking the whole blade off and see if the panel will slide up the arm as there is a bit of woggle room around the panel hole in the plastic, all the other panels i have seen being removed are just a quater type panel that just pulls up from eack side allowing easy access but this model has a long type panel actross the width with a join in the middle under the bonnet, I need to replace the strut top bearings as they are worn so might replace the struts as well just a note to thank the local councul for NOT repairing the vast amount of potholes and think this has caused them to fail the car has covered around 41,000 from new but that's nothing to go buy with the state of the roads we pay for but don't get repaired

If the both cars are hatchbacks then the bumper will fit but not if one is a hatch and the other an estate, the front on the estate models are the same as the hatchback incuding the front doors but then it changes the rear doors hatch and bumper are different

Before messing with adjustment please make sure the headlight is correctly fitted into the car housing/surround as some times when removed and put back it can be not pushed in corrrectly, other than that the inner screw of each headlight adjusts the up and down and the outer hole in the panel ajusts left to right, it's usualy a large white plastic phillips type screw with a decent thread on it in a black bracket near the radiator side but it also has a knuled part you can turn by hand but i have always used a good size phillips, one car i worked on had torx type screws for adjusting but not sure this was standard

Sorry just noticed the thread was about a MK2 but it's mostly the same process check switch power etc If i remember i swapped the regulator out of the drivers door on mine after i replaced the whole door due to an jdiot ramming into it the door, it was scrap and the window regulator was bent but the motor was ok if you take out the runners be careful to tape the glass from the top of the door frame whe window is in the up position as when you slacken the runners off the glass will drop like a brick and might smash I think i paid £30 off ebay for a good one didn't buy new as door was used as well but in great condition

This is a process of checking things out. the first thing is to check the switch is working remove the switch and if you have a meter check it turns off and on, then check with ing on that you have power to the cables, if you can hear the motor trying to work then it gets a bit more involved, sometimes the inner runners for the winow glass gums up stopping the window going up or down because of the safety issue with the window it thinks theres a problem and stops working, I use GT85 and spray both side runners, WD40 is no good it swells the seals, it is hard with the window closed and you could pre empt t and remove the panel as you can then get at the runners to spray them, then it's a process of checking the motor and the window regulator cables and runners etc and check that the motor is getting power , they runners might be stuck or broken you can get a replacement regulator but no motor for around £40 on my old MK 2 I took this regulator out and cleaned and re greased it and it worked fine but if you are pushed for time a new regulator is quicker to just fit. the only other thing I forgot to mention if you have no power at the switch cables it could be a broken or corroded wire in the front door loom or the connection that goes into the door from the inner car panel, you can see the connection rubber if you open the door, to get at it correctly you need to remove the door opening stay link on the door then you can get at the connector the rubber does come off and there is a plastic clip you release then the plug comes out a god spray with WD and some vaseline on the connections before refitting can help, found a vid on utube 2018 mk3 window regulator replacement but it's the passenger side

Not looked for this part but not long after we purchased out MK3 Fabia SE L the front panel above the glove box got badly scratched and looked terrible. tried to polish it out but then diaster struck the finish is a thin type of coated stuff ontop of black plastic so it looked wrecked tried dealers and no luck wanted us to bring the car and leave it there and they would see "if" they could get the part, i went to Skodaparts.com online and sent a request with my chassis number and details, they came back with the part number price etc, it was a tad expensive just over £100 with delivery as it comes from Germany but it was the correct colour and correct part and even included a set of instructions how to remove the old part and fit the new one, might be worth a try with them but could wottrk out expensive I did try a few beakers but was never sure of the correct colour from them when asking rthey were always a bit unsure

Sorry tp tell you but Halfords will not change these bulbs for you on this model due to how difficult it is, I asked them before as i bought 2 bulbs and said i would pay to have them fitted but they said not this bulb on this model, I did manage to do it but i needed to get a pair of those grip type car working gloves and take the big rubber off the back of the headlight unit and then you need to wiggle your arm up untill you reach the side light holder it's a combination of pulling and slightly twisting the holder to release it they are difficult but will come out, i found a jerk pull action better than just pulling some pepole remove the road wheel and then remove the front part of the wheel arch liner to get at the holder, when i got mine out i used 2 zip ties one around the holder and then another around that tie and made a kind of loop so i could get my fingers in the loop to pull it out next time i did replace mine with good quality led bulbs and never needed to replace them again until we changed the car many years later, i'm sure some people will say this is wrong but it worked for me as i didn't fancy removing loads of parts just to change a bulb

Thanks for all the comments I have now completed the job and got the information on how to remove the arm rest from a website that does not tell you "how to" but shows you the parts make up in a drawing, I was just not happy with the amount my handbrake was coming up even after fitting the new parts and waiting for them to bed in. cables can stretch and even snap so it's good to get a heads up on how to do the job perhaps before it happens

I bought a pair of used thule areo bars from ebay 120 cm wide and a 757 fitting kit which clamps onto the roof rails these are qiuck realease and only take a few minutes to put on and remove you can also use the 775 foot pack but these use a very thick rubber type strap that also goes around the rail and then clips into the body of the clamp then you use the knob to tighten them up, but I pefer the latter 757 kit much better as they clamp both sides of the rail and tighten from both sides and seem to be more solid, you could buy the cheaper square bars from thule but they are very noisy when you go ubove 40 mph the areo bars are great for normal motorway speeds, you can use the newest evo bars but they are much nore expensive, i kept my bars off my mk2 fabia and used them with the 757 clamps on my mk3 as there was only 10cm dufference in bar length for the MK3 (shorter)

I came acrooss this with a friends car it landed up he had to replace both switches but what we did first which lasted a few weeks was to get a rag and make a moat like shape around the switch in the panel and squirted WD into the rocker while preesing up and down WITH the ignition off, left it for a few minutes and cleaned the swich top up from any an excess WD and then tried the windows again, it did work straight away but only lasted a few weeks to be honest so as said replaced the switches, we also lubbed the side runner guides in the door frame inth a few sprays of GT85, can buy this in Asda halfords etc, don't use WD40 although good it will swell the seals and make is worse

Perhaps not on a polo or a seat car this model is niether of them, taking it to a dealership is a waste of my time and my money all i was after was some one who has completed the action with the said arm rest fitted it's eay on all skoda fabia models without the arm rest it's just this model with the arm rest all i wanted to know does the arm rest need to be removed to adjust the cable or not

Skoda Fabia MK3 SE L 2019 facelift modeI TSI engine, it has a centre arm rest fitted and I want to adjust the handbrake cableafter fitting new discs pads and caliper on the rear, my old Fabia MK3 you just poped out the rear plastic tray thing and you could get at the adjuster but with this model the tray doesn't look like it will come out and didn't want to damage it trying so i assume the armrest has to come out to adjust the cable ? had a look but doesn't seem to be any screws on the bottom of the arm rest to remove it, had a look on you tube but they just show fitting aftermarket ones to polo's and all the Fabia video's are for the ones without the arm rest , just wondering if anyone has adjusted this cable and what you need to do to get at the adjuster thanks in advance