Murdockman

Life saver on ebay can't remember the seller but if you search for skoda fabia locking wheel nut replacement i'm sure you will find it, I had the same issue with my MK2 fabia and all i had to doo was take a close photo like you have and send it to the seller he then sent me a key/socket and it fitted no problem, the bolt part of this fixing has a number stamped on the inner part which also depickits the required socket but the bolt has to be removed for this but is good if you want a spare key, give him a try it was wotrth the time and money to get the correct part

My mk2 estate was a 2010 reg 1.9 tdi and this model had the big rear alloy bracket bush type so thought it might still be used they did change on the mk3 and now there's a modified bush thats more solid instead of being open on each side

This model i think uses the older type bush thats on the end in an alloy bracket unless the bottom ball joint is the riveted type you need not buy the whole arm as the bushes are notin the arm anyway and don't come with the bushes and bracket , if doing the job yourself you will need a puller to replace this bushI, I replaced mine on my old mk2 with SEAT Cupra bushes which are a solid type compared to the slotted type as standard found it a firmer ride and lasted many years longer compared to the slotted type bush, the only slight draw back is if you drive slow in high gears like a snail you will get a shudder type vibration but normal driving is fine no issues and in fairness as the bush ages a bit this goes away ,Quinten Hasszel make good quality arms with bottom ball joints BUT no bushes you need to buy thhese ,there's a few vid's on you tube showing this work take a look first to see if you can do this as taking the brackets off the car to fit the bushes is a trying job most if not all garages remove and re fit them while still on the car

Just change the oil and the oil filter,but myself i would bite the bullet and get 2 filters a 4 litre jack of flushing oil then user at least the recommened longlife oil or better, short trips daily causes more issues and honestly the filter and oil needs changing more often than loner runs done every day

Just to add this belt only drives the alternator and air con pulleys, the water pump is driven by the timing belt as mentioned look at the crankshaft pulley rubber damper a known failiure

The belt can be removed by just pulling back on the adjuster with a spanner i think it's a 17mm but not sure with your model getting at it is the issue on my old MK2 1.9 you could do this from above the engine but not sure with the 1.4 you might have to remove the wheel and plastic wheel arch to get at it but worth trying from under the bonnet first, some of these models suffered from the crankshaft pully rubber damper failing and you need to replace the whole pulley usially you can check this as the pulley will turn and feel loose good luck whatever it is

Have had a few issues with one remote out of the two supplied with the car, one remote one press unlocks everything, the other remoteyou have to press the remote twice to unlock everything, can manage this no biggy, the issue now is the car locking itself, you can unlock it start the car drive etc in dry or wet get out shut the drivers dor and on some days the car will lock itself EVEN IF THE KEY FOB IS INSIDE, it caught us out once at a pertol station as both of us got out and doors were shut, had to wait until m daughter brought my spare key fob t get in, it's a kyless start nut not entery, have taken it to dealers no faults showing and thier only solution that the came out with was to replace the whole alarm system,cheeeeeeper to change the car i thinkkkkkkk, just wodered has anyoe ever come accross this problem, just to add fitted new batteries in both remotes car is a 2019 1.0 TSI SE L Estate it's the uplift model from the MK3 but not a MK4

I had a Fabia MK2 and this car from the vin should have had 256mm size vented frnt discs fitted but it turned out they were 282mm size i remember getting the shields from Autodoc the only drawback is the potage cost but if i remember it still worked out cheaper than the dealership (which they kept saying was the smaller ones) Pads were the same they kept giving me the wrong typei found out mydelf by looking at them and then looking at the different types ,turned out to be Lucas pads

Just be careful of what type you buy, a few will recommend shocks but most of them are just oil filled normal dampers the fabia range were fitted with oil/gas shocks so you need to replace them with these,I did buy a pair a few years ago from eBay from a selller in poland which were vw approved and cost around £60 with delivery you will see them cheaper but as mentioned make sure they are oil/gas filled not just oil filled

Are there drum brakes on the rear? have come across this issue a few times now, the rear cylinders look good but when shoes are taken off and the rubber dust covers peeled back slightly the inside of the rubbers have been quite wet with fluid, 2 new cylinders and a re bleed using a vac pump (around £15 off the bay ) will make it easier for you, I have known the actual master cylinder to be faulty causing this issue where the centreseals inside the cylinder are weak and pass fluid inside the chamber, you do not loose fluid but this causes the pedal drop and spongy feel on the pedal, normally when servo pipe is leaking the car runs eratic on idle and pedal will be hard to press when braking but have aso seen a faulty vac vale cause some thing like this, my friend bought a used vac pipe and valve to try this out but it turned out to be the master cylinder in the end

Does your model hav the button on the dash to lock unlock the system from inside of the car ? if yes this switch or cables going to it can be loose or faulty if no then it's a door restraining strap removal door wide open and check the connection that goes into the door from the inner panel normally a good clean up of this plug and socket sort this issue out but have known the lock on the drivers door to cause this issue due to corrosion did cure a friends car by spraying WD on the lock from inside the door with the card removed all worth a try good luck

Just to add the last photo was the unit pushed up inside the cut out to stop it coming out when driving , I did try to unplug the small plug on the end of the unit but it's like the kripton factor again no sure which way to push pull or tug

Just a few more pics to add

Anyone know where this clips fits onto as I have looked on the plastic housing and cannot find where it has broken off ,the alarm housing keeps falling down it looks like you push in in towards the front of the roof opening then this clip some how holds the unit in place but as you see it has broken off where ever the only other option is to bond it back in place as I have tried all sorts of double sided tape and they hold untill the car gets hot and the unit again falls out, asked in dealers but they want me to book the car into thier workshop and leace it there not that interested by that

Tried a few weeks ago to get the panel out of the lower grill to gain acess to the fog light bulb, had a few replies but most suggested pushing panel out from the rear but this does not work as mine is the 2019 facelift model with the honeycomb type grill markings and the panel has to come out from the front of the car, tried pulling and swearing at it but no go at one point i thought the whole front bumper was going to come away before this panel came out!!, left it for a few days and then as an afterthought used a hair dryer with mid heat on and around the panel did this for about 5 mins and then used the ring clip tool in the hole and wow out it came !!, undone the 2 screws and out came the fog light, changed the bulb and also did the other side the same way a lot easier like this I also warmed the panel back up before refitting and then when in place held it in place with one hand and gave the panel area a few blasts with the cold/cool setting on the dryer nothing like this suggested in the manual but worked a treat for me

Not tried but looked at doing this on my old MK2 estate when towing a van, master cyl;inder is ok but you need a load of parts to convert ,Discs, Pads, Calipers, Carriers Mounting brackets and bolts, Hand Brake Cables and clips, New Brake Hoses New hubs and ABS sensors as they are different from the drum brake type as you cannot emit them you will get a red warning ABS failed on the dash, I ended up changing the front 256mm discs and carriers and calipers for the bigger 282mm discs calipers and carriers that improved the braking enough not to bother with the rear drums. In all unless you can get good refusbished parts it will be exensive for not much gain, if it's looks you are after try painting the drums much easier and a lot cheaper ,also the handbrake is more reliable, we have a MK3 estate now and the disc handbrake is not a patch on the drum brake handbrake and in fairness don't notice that much difference in braking between the disc and drum on the rear but the front upgrade did

Might not be the wires as you say the most commmon issue is the central lock body theres a lever on this unit that rusts up, you can for a start spray WD into the outside lever /handle part but ensure you put a cloth under the handle not to let the WD40 runs down the outside of the door, wait a few minutes then use the remote and keep pressing lock/unlock while bang the palm of your hand against the panel just under the dor handle ,if this doesn't work you can get the inner door card off from inside but you might destroy it doing so there is a thread on here somewhere or pehps youtube that shows the issue with this lever sticking and how to free it up once removed, it culd be the wires but mostly it stems from the door/hindge connector plug that might need taking ut and cleaning this up but again you need the door to be open to do this give a try banging first it might work

I bought a set of thule 120cm aero bars for my MK2 Fabia estate and used the thule 757 rapid fit kit that clamps direct to the roof rails they adjust with a lower clamp T bar handle that then locks into the clamp(if locks are fitted) I did buy a halfords make box as the thule box was rather expensive the box opens from the side and the fitting clamps go around under the bars simular to an exhast clamp and up into the inside of the box with plastic coated wing nuts the fitting position is adjustable with a few different hols available to use,but you could drill your own as there was a mounting plate that you use with the clamps inside they don't stick up much and I have used a large hallway type mat to line the bottom of the box when i use it, I changed the car to a MK3 estate the bars for this car were recommened as 118 cm long but when i saw the price of new bars £189 i thought that i would try the ones off the old car (120cm) which to be honest fitted ok I think the 120cm bars are the correct length for your car but don't buy the square bars they are very noisy the aero bars are very good for wind noise the newer wing bars are more quiet but you pay a lot more for these, have a look on the bay as you can get a good deal on a set of used bars and clamps , a friend bought a good box from Amazon but cannot remember the make now average cost for a decent box is around £230 again might be worth a look around after yu get the bars fitted as you can always travel to get it then most people would not want to post (size and cost)

My skoda is the facelift one you cannot get at the back of the fog light grill cover to push it out it's the cover with a honeycomb type pattern not the straight bar type it should come straight out but it's being a pig to remove it you use the litte ring hook tool tthrought the hole near the top if you try and pry it out you will crack the bumper and mark the paint

Has ayone taken the foglights out on a Fabia MK3 2019 S E L it's the newer facelift with the TSI 3 cylinder engine it shows in the book to pull out the small grill next to the fog lights to gain access but i'm pulling rather hard and nothing is happening i'm afraid i'm going to break the grillls so rather than have them broken driving around i would like to get 2 new ones ready, our main dealers have shut down so would lke to buy online but not sure of the part numbers or where to buy found some on the Bay but doesn't show the car in thier list so a bit confused

If you had a genuine belt kit and water pump fitted at 50,000 miles then you would be still good for another 50,000 on top of your 98,000 miles but as with most garages they don't fit the whole genuine kit or fit the genuine water pump and in some cases they don't even put the correct coolant back in causing you problems later on, suggest you try and find original bill when belt was changed and check what was actually changed, other than that bite the bullet and get a genuine vw/skoda belt kit, adjuster roller and bolts and get a genuine water pump and correct vw coolant, have a shop around got my kit much cheaper by trying different dealers (new old stock) and then if you want take it to a garage and ask just for labour costs or like I did changed it myself, i also changed the serpent belt and tensioner at the same time as the car had done just over 100,000 the belt looked like it could have done another 50,000 but the water pump impeller was really worn and don't think it would have lasted much longer as it'ds made of plastic

The last time this happened to my friends mk2 fabia that just had the H7 bulbs fitted was the headlight relay located under the bonnet near the battery the relay was badly corrrded at the spades going into the holder a good clean up and a few squirts with WD40 and all was well again, If I remember it was relay 10B but can't be 100% sure on that one, I have heard that the dipped beam flap that covers the bulb can also cause this issue if it sticks but I would imagine the complete headlamp would need replacing to solve this issue, if the main beam lights up it could also be a bad earth to the headlamp unit not allowing the dipped flap to operate it's worth trying a wire from the metal of the headlight bulb to the earth on the car with the ing on and dipped beam selectedand see if the headligt lights up then

9 times out of ten it will be the drop links making the noise, sometimes it can be a ball top strut bearing cracked spring worn wishbone bush or anti roll bar bushes, the main reason most mechanics don't find the drop link issue is they let the strut hang down so all the pressure is on the drop link so it's very hard to see or hear the wear, the correct way to check the links is jack body up so wheels are off the ground support the body then jack up under the wheel /control arm which side you think the noise is coming from just enough to tae the pressure off the strut /spring then put a small bar under the drop link where it's conected to the anti roll bar and then put the bar under the body as well and then try and move up and down you will hear or see the wear in this link, found it best to just cut the old link ball jint nuts with a grinder/cutting wheel and then fit new ones, some models have a plastic type link others have a folded steel link I have always used Meyle HD links instead of genuine ones they look better and are much cheaper and the Meyle ones have a propper spanner slot instead of the small useless Torx in the top of the rusted ball joint

As mentioned drilled a small hole in the wheel plug area just to stop water building up then went to find the cause, on mine it turned out to be the whole rear lens cover that was leaking ,there's a sponge type seal / gasket under the whole lens and this was perished, dealers do not sell these they come with the new lens trying to get a good used one is nearly impossible not advisable to use sealer as if you need to remove lens to do a bulb change you won't get it off withouy breaking it, I did manage to make a gasket out of 2mm thin rubber spent ages cutting the shape out and just before fitting covered the gasket with vaseline first fitted the gasket to the light then fitted to the car did both sides put them both back on and any surpless wiped away with alcohol or WD for me this stoppped the leaking but I did keep the hole open just in case, the flap seals under the bumper are also a leak problem but the bumper needs to be removed first, I did take my mk2 estate bumper off a few years ago to replace a dodgy reverse sensor its not a job you want to do on your own as getting the bumper sides to engage with the clips you have to be at both sides at once, also came across someone who had a leak from the tank seal rubber the drain hole to the underneath was blocked and rainwater in the fuel flap area was going inside instead of dropping down under car