DoDaniel

Who has done the battery test? I've found that when RAC did one on the roadside for me before, they said it was fine. But having it done at a Skoda dealer days later with the proper VW tool diagnosed it as failed when my original battery was knackered.

Hey, when you press the button, does it say what mode you are in currently? I've found that being in any other mode other than normal, it stays lit. So if you're in Eco, Sport, Comfort or Individual, it will be lit.

@Carst-2018SKODASuperb Nice one, mate. It does sound a bit more farty fruity.

I too am interested in what this sounds like once you've had the work done. Any chance you could post a short vid of what it sounds like before and after? 🙏 I've seen many vids where the whole system has been replaced or straight-piped, but none where the centre res has just been deleted.

My All-In package just run out on my Superb and I was paying £25 a month for 2 years. In that time I had the 2 services, both normal and extended scope, 2 MOT's, filters, sparks, etc. and used the extended warranty a handful of times for a rear door card change (ambient light failure), fuel flap issue and fuel overflow pipe replacement. In my opinion it was worth it, but I would say it all comes down to how competent your local Skoda dealer is as well. In the first 1.5 years, I had no issues, but in the last 6 months due to staff changes, it became a nightmare to get a service and warranty work booked into before the service plan expired. If my car wasn't over the age threshold, I would definitely have renewed it, along with finding another Skoda dealer. But I just cannot agree with the standard service plans not including the yearly MOT in that price.

Hey, From the workshop manual, it appears you have to remove the infotainment control unit first, then you can unscrew the whole assembly and remove the hose for the A/C vent and airbag switch.

Hey, welcome. You can enable/disable what options you have to view in the driving data via the infotainment screen. It's in Vehicle, settings and then from memory under instrument (cluster). You just tick which ones you'd like to be able to see when scrolling through, and which ones you don't. Hope this helps.

Hopefully the list and ApetureS's pic will help. Unfortunately, the owners manual doesn't state which amp fuse goes into which slot.

Hope this helps.

I see. I have the extended warranty on my car, but apparently that doesn't cover interior trim, so it would be chargeable. I will check the wiring in the grommet first before attempting to take the door apart. If I do have to take the door apart, hopefully it is something as simple as not being plugged in properly. Cheers.

Hi All, Just wanted to check what's the best way to proceed with this. My rear left passenger door ambient lighting is now not working, doesn't light up or respond to colour/brightness changes on the infotainment. I have scanned the car with OBDEleven and it came back with the following code: U117A00 - Bulb 1 for door contour lighting, rear left No communication I'd imagine my first steps would be to inspect the light strip in the door itself just to see if a cable has come unplugged. Has anyone else experienced this and was it a simple fix, or did you have to buy a new lighting strip? Is this quite common as well? Thanks.

This is the same issue I had with them. I know you probably already have been on the phone with them today, but I would call them again and ask for the service desk manager and do not take no for an answer. Maybe quote this person: Elkanah Senior Customer Support Specialist He was the one that got everything sorted for me after I finally spoke to someone senior. Quote his name, maybe it will progress it faster.

Also, their 300 point check/reconditioning claim is a joke. But once you get the car sorted, it will be a fine machine! Just a hurdle to overcome.

Just to give you a heads up, they will most likely get you to use their "partner garages" for getting the work done. These are typically any Halfords Auto Centre, or Kwikfit branch. I had to fight to get my battery replaced and coded properly at the Skoda dealer. But do push them! If you need them to authorise work, email them the details and proof/invoice and then call them immediately after to push it through. As mentioned before, if you are getting nowhere with their 1st line support, ask to speak to the service desk manager. Ring them early in the day as well so you can call back later in the day and chase. Bit hard to do when you ring them at 12/1PM and then chase again a couple hours later. Keep us posted!

Nice one, hope you enjoy the car mate! Fingers crossed nothing sinister rears its head on the inspection. Do let us know if they find anything and get written copies so you can go back to Cazoo if need be. Hopefully nothing to serious, but would be curious.

Whilst the spec on that one is much better, the millage is very high on that car for a MY 2019. Plus, checking the MOT history, it appears to have some pending suspension and brake issues on the horizon. Unless the seller can confirm they have resolved those issues and provide paperwork stating so, might be worth giving it a miss in my opinion.

Nice one, the Octavia looked to be in good condition. I'm sure you'll enjoy it! The main reason I got my inspection done at the Skoda garage was because I had always planned to go for the All In package and part of it they do an inspection for a couple hours, but if you trust your local VAG specialist, then it's totally up to you. It's just a case of getting that 2nd opinion on the car so you can go back to Cazoo if anything is needed. Plus, weigh up your options, to me a warranty sounded good piece of mind along with the servicing and MOT's, and that cost's £29 a month for 2 years. But you could equally put the same amount in savings and use it for servicing/MOT at your local VAG specialist. Either way, I hope you enjoy the car mate. Do post back and let us know how you got on with collection etc.

Having bought a Superb 280 2017 plate from Cazoo, maybe I can weigh in with my experience to help. Purchasing the car and collecting was an absolute breeze, but I was always wary of buying a car without having seen in person before hitting buy. They have a 7 day money back guarantee, so if it isn't as you expected, you can hand it back if needed and they also have a 3 month warranty, something which I exploited heavily. An absolute must if you are thinking of buying the car is to book it in for a health check at your local Skoda/Marshal garage, same day you pick up the car if you can. I believe this is a free/cheap service and well worth it, especially if you're thinking of taking out a warranty with Skoda called the all in (2 year service, MOT and warranty). The reason I got this done was because I wanted hard evidence if something was actually wrong with the car. Also check that they actually have the service history. I was lead to believe that it had the history present, but it actually turned out to be a couple of stamps in the book and a certificate that they had done an oil change, so I was understandably a bit upset by that as I like to have proper documentation stating what's been done. If they claim they have also done an oil change, make you check the level before driving off, mine was 1Ltr down on the dipstick and they filled it up before I drove off. They must not have checked it after filling it up and maybe didn't account for some staying in the filter. Anyway, after Skoda did the checks, turns out I needed the following doing: Front pads/discs New rear left taillight (water ingress) New Battery Broken rear passenger vent Missing spare key Much arguing with Cazoo later, they honoured it and replaced/sorted all the highlighted faults within the first month of ownership. But you really do have to keep badgering them to get it sorted. Channel you inner Karen and ask for the manager if you're not getting anywhere, 1st line support are unable to authorise any works and just send you in circles. Since then, car has been faultless! (knock on wood) Anyway, I hope that helps.

I do miss my MK1 Octy VRS, but my family member has taken it on and seems happy with it so far (minus the exhaust noise). Thanks for the offer anyway @DeanVRS20VT, my next step would have been the classifieds on here. I've always liked the MK1 Octavia, very practical cars that were bigger than a golf and not as much money. Had a 2002 Elegance 2L before the VRS and it was also great. Shame all the estates seem to rust on the tailgate under the glass! @skinnyman I had been looking at them for some time before needing to replace my car. Just so happens that one at the right price per month came along when it did. Keep looking, maybe they will come down in the new year a bit more, who knows. Absolutely loving the Superb SportLine though, cannot express how quiet, practical and quick this car is. I have also bought myself an OBD Eleven Pro Pack to code the car, managed to enable the following so far: Adaptive Lane Assist Light Assist for the headlights - (Blocks beam out for oncoming when using highs, will see how this goes) Rear DRL's Heated Seat Memory Disable Stop/Start system - A scam to kill batteries in my opinion I'm going to wait a bit before I look into remapping it, but to be honest, it has more than enough power for the road (atm )

So, sadly the time has come to say goodbye to my MK1 VRS Estate. (Pic of when I got it) Unfortunately, the cost of maintinence/outstanding work is starting to get too high and I'm not willing to put a bunch of money into an aging car anymore. The final straw was the exhaust snapping where the pipe joins the rear silencer and to my surprise, it was the original exhaust, so I think it's done well to last this long. I have been unable to source an OEM equivilent of the same style from any parts shops, eBay or breakers yards and I don't want to pay £400-500 for a Jetex or Piper system and the noise that might come along with them. Sounds bad enough with it snapped! Current outstanding work list: Persistant oil leak (Replaced rocker gaskets and other common point of egress, still happening) Minor coolant leak above gearbox Creaking noise when turning steering near full lock Rust on rear tailgate under glass Rust on driver side passenger door Drivers seat bolster padding worn away Ingress of water during heavy rain - Boot and rear passenger doors Timing belt and water pump due Drivers side engine mount replacement Exhaust replacement Luckily, it's not going too far. A family member is going to take it on as their car got stolen and have not replaced it yet. Up to them if they wish to fix the outstanding, or just do the exhaust so it passes an MOT. I am still sticking with Skoda though and have already sourced my new car, so this will be my 3rd Skoda. I ended up settling on a 2017 Skoda Superb Sportline Estate 280 DSG AWD. I was originally looking at VW Golf R and Seat Leon Cupra 300 Estates and also maybe the Cupra Ateca. But I really don't like the styling on those and feel they look quite lairy/boy racer-ish. My ideal car is one that looks nice, practical (hence estate) and is suttle, but has the power to shift when I feel like it. Plus the extra features like Adaptive Cruise Control, Electric Tailgate and Kessy sealed the deal. Intention is to settle into the car for a while and then start doing minor things like a stage 1 remap for the engine and DSG in the future. So, this is not me leaving Briskoda, only moving next door into the Superb MK3 threads. All the best people! 🙃

Welcome, Good to see another Black Magic MK1 VRS Estate on here. Here's mine. I've had some of the issues you've mentioned, so I'll try and cover what I did to fix it. Creaking from the front: I found that after many years of service, the bushings on the control arms, ARB's and drop links were original to the car and needed replacing. I replaced these with all new OEM parts as it was quicker and easier to get them with new bushes pre-installed than fitting polybushes myself. Floaty ride: This ended up being some original shocks causing the problem and some long gone bump stops on my car. I took them out the car and they immediately feel down, no damping whatsoever to them. I opted not to go for coilovers as the car is used to haul the family around on weekdays, so I ended up going for this Bilstein B4 kit from eBay. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/333688524788 Whilst you're in there, make sure you replace the bump stops, top mounts and the bolts hold the shock to the knuckle. On that subject, you'll need this to spread the knuckle apart to make removing it easier. I cannot stress how much time this saves. https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B003PZERSI/ Boost/PCV Leaks: Very, very common on these. The PCV system basically rips itself apart every so often, especially the top 'Y' breather hose and the one that connects to the bottom of the intake. That one is a pain to get to and can't be seen easily. You can get full PCV kits on eBay or replace them with silicone alternatives, but those get costly. Other than that, just check your hoses from the intake down through the intercooler and back. Can't remember if you said it was running the stock intercooler or not, but the 'pancake pipe' can get split I've read. Other than that, regular service, good fuel and the car will last for years to come. On a final note, defo get a stage 1 done asap, cannot tell you how much of a difference it makes.

I had this exact same issue not too long ago, but for me it was giving me fault codes such as P0171 and P0411. Ended up being a combination of the hose going from the PCV check valve (number 8) to the inlet manifold being split (that one is hard to see as it's covered) and the secondary air intake hose that has split. http://i.ebayimg.com/07/!BysQ2hQB2k~$(KGrHqIOKkYEwPTKcfjNBMS1M7Uzw!~~_12.GIF I had to replace number 4 to resolve this, along with the SAI hose. Hope this helps.

Will do. Called to book it in for a quote, so will let you know how much they say. Pinned the thread so I remember to say.

Hi, I have exactly the same problem with my black VRS estate and have yet to find a replacement. Taking it to my local coachworks soon to see what sort of price they will give me for the repair.

Hey guys, Thanks for your suggestions. I found the issue and it was the simplest thing which made me swear at myself for getting this wrong. The bolts that secure the drop links the to ARB and strut were the wrong torque setting, I had set it to 30 Nm where it should have been 90 Nm. It was fine initially when replacing the drop links but the uneven roads made the noise worse over time I guess and loosened the bolt. Anyway, tightened to 90 Nm and it makes no noise now. I guess it was moving around quite a bit but when the car was on the ground, I couldn't see/feel it. Glad it's sorted now though. Now to replace a leaky valve cover gasket! It's never ending!