garethw

Look on the bright side at least your clutch was worn out. Mine was more or less half way worn. Must admit my release arm had no wear on it I could detect.

One of the few things from the dealers that I was able to get cheaper than from the motor factor..... The other thing at one time was brake drums but not any more.

Can you give a rough indication of mileage ? Startup smoke could be glow plugs, but the other symptoms could be injectors or pump. If you get it scanned on VCDS that may be able to identify a problem with the injector pump or ECU.

Fair enough, it may be worth asking if they don;t list your gearbox. Can you put the correct gearbox code for information ? Does the gearbox on this model follow the familiar vw construction style with 5th gear on the ouside of the bearing carrier ?

http://www.eurotuning.cz/images/image/en/optimizing/conversion_kit.html This is a possible solution if you are looking for an overdrive 6th gear, but not cheap.

I don't have the locking tools but if you need a valve spring compressor I have one you can borrow and I am not that far away

I was looking at your picture and trying to understand the pinouts of the devices at the blue and red arrows respectively. Can you confirm the voltages on the tabs of both devices.( also pin 3 ) For a voltage regulator you would expect it to be 0V or GND. But for a FET it would be a voltage.

A temporary fix might be to get use the type of buzzer used for tow bar installations and then load the outputs with a resistor. Type 'Towbar Buzzer' into ebay. Most caravan places will stock them.

I think we could debate that point for a very long time. Discussions I had with the dealers all seemed to revolve around warranty claims for DMFs. Here are the wiring connections ,(figures in brackets are the the connector pin no which is on the face of the connector) Left Hand Tail Light cluster :- Black/Grey (2) => Towbar Black = Left Hand Side Light Black/White (5) => Towbar Yellow = Left Hand Indicator Right Hand Tail Light Cluster :- Red/Grey (2) => Towbar Brown = Right Hand Tail Light Green/Black (5) => Towbar Green = Right Hand Indicator Red/Black (6) => Towbar Red = Brake Lights Grey/White(3) => Towbar Blue = Fog Lights The white lead from the towbar 7 core cable needs to be connected to a suitable earth. I elected to drill a hole in the bodywork and use a self tapper with a star washer to get a good connection. More to follow when I sort out the photos of what you need to do. If someone has access to the proper wiring diagram then some of my b-colors may need reversing.

It is only possible to buy the bearing and the flange together. In order to successfully install then you need the specific GEN2 wheel bearing tool set. See the end of this thread :- http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/383603-wheel-bearing/ If you post your location someone with the tool may offer to help.

I have changed a few pumps and it is a simple enough job. I would advise you to get a copy of VCDS so that you can read the status of the pump ECU, hopefully this will narrow down if you need a sensor or a pump. Both GSF and Eurocar parts do recon pumps at a fraction of the dealer price.

It says M10 x 1.5mm here :- http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-BORG-BECK-FRONT-BRAKE-HOSE-BBH6851-/351605875685?fits=Model%3AFabia&hash=item51dd57e3e5:g:Lw8AAOSwk1JWcRnQ So some 10mm copper washers would be a good place to start.

Fair point, on that car it had spent a lot of time carrying heavy loads so the bump stops were pretty mashed. I cut the broken section off before eventually replacing the bump stops.

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ok, if you are short on meney you can just tape them in position with insulation tape Sent from my SM-T530NU using Tapatalk

If you need to replace a caliper I would personally do both sides to avoid any brake imbalance problems caused by the fact the older one would tend to bind up. You can try http://www.biggred.co.uk to get you existing calipers reconditioned or to order seal kits. When you do you rear shocks the bump stops will have degraded causing the dust shield to drop down, so budget on a pair of those too.

Can you let me know if you car is right hand drive or not ?

I have had to fix one on my dad's car after it had been butchered previously. The pin was a goner too. You can either heli-coil it or there is a specific kit that comes with a guide bar that uses a serrated bush to recover the thread. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Brake-Caliper-Guide-Thread-Repair-Kit-VAG-VW-VAUXHALL-FORD-Seat-Tool-Kit-/391176226987?hash=item5b13eb88ab:g:qX8AAOSwHnFVgm9K I have an older version of this kit that only has one bar in it.

OK, I'll try to put some pictures together. Do you have the power accessory socket in the boot ?

When it gets stuck try switching the engine off, if it then comes free you have clutch drag. Another thing to try is let the car roll back slightly, does this cause the problem ?

How quickly do you need to do it, I have been meaning to wire up one of my cars for a while, but it won;t happen this weekend for certain.

1: On a cold day when starting first thing the steering warning lamp comes on with restricted power steering. If I stop and restart the engine it clears but I am concerned that this may point to big bills. >> Your need to measure your battery voltage, if it is on the low side the pump will cut out on under voltage. Try to find the biggest battery that will fit when replacing or use a high capacity one. Also check the alternator sense wire. 2: When coming to a stop at lights the engine judders as if its running on 3 cylinders. If I coast it it makes no difference. Could it be the brake light switch? >> The only thing I can think of is EGR valve sticking, but it would tend to shudder all the time then. 3: The third really annoying issue is it vibrates under acceleration from 60mph and only stops if you take your foot off the gas. Its less under light accelerator but its still there. Its not the wheels though, and I swapped everything around. I did notice on the motorway that when you go round a fast bend the vibration vanishes and comes back as soon as I straighten up. Had a mondeo diesel did this in 1997 and it turned out to be both inner cv's which was VERY expensive! >> I am assuming that you are confident this is a drivetrain thing, then driving round in a tight circle should show up any worn driveshaft joints. Some idea of mileage covered would might help narrow down potential causes.

I imagine on the the other ones they can be reversed by slipping the O rings off.

Mine are 'Made in Sheffield'

Are these any good ? https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/laser-4722-vag-subframe-locating-pins/?da=1&TC=GS-040814722&gclid=CJPWrq_VjssCFXEz0wodRroI3Q