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Posts posted by FLAPPERJACK7
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Did he pay for the diagnosis? is there a labour line for diagnosis. If there's no charge ..then it was a guess. Either way it would be extremely unlikely to be a lambda sensor for a misfire on just cylinder. Most of my work is from "been to another garage ".
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So would I. The tracker alarm wiring comes out of the box with 40 cm of wiring. So it doesn't take a genius to work out how to remove the tracker and the fact it's position is within 30 to 40 cm of the obd port.That's where my tracker is fitted. It also alarms when removed.
I would seriously consider a hard wired/monitored system in my next car - funds permitting!
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Trackers are now and also quite recently interfaced from the obd port. So its mostly obvious if it has a tracker fitted to those in the motor trade.
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5 year's ago when I worked for a Volkswagen dealer we had a valeter who took a car home. Nobody knew about it. Luckily it was only a trade in vehicle. He had been using it for 3 months till he was found out. Instant dismissal.
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There are 2 or 3 torx bolts if I remember correctly they are either t30 or t45 torx. You have unclipped and lifted the filter. But you need to unbolt the filter holder bracket. I have done loads and this is the only way unless you have teeny tiny hands and buckets of patience.
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Post the pictures. Ask them to explain what is wrong with the flywheel. Then go above them and contact Skoda uk for at least a goodwill contribution. Don't take it on the chin. 17k is pathetic.
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Or just un bolt the fuel filter and move it... it's easy.
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I do feel sorry for you. From what you have said they sound like a bunch of bell end's. I would be thinking along the line's of taking it elsewhere. Maybe even small claims court.Enough to make me cry! To be honest, I think I will take it elsewhere to be fixed even if it should be them doing it. All trust gone in garages at the moment!
I think they have been rather heavy handed in having to carry out the rectification work.
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800 sounds like they have knackered your DPF. There is a tool for going around the flexi. It's only a plastic tool. But it stops it from stretching and knackering it. Guess they never had or used this tool.
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Have not really looked much further than cam and crank speeds. This t5 tdi is common rail so think it's a bit more advanced on the fault code side.
Another thing to check on yours is n75 and hose block. I had one a few year's back. The owner had a turbo fitted and it still had no power by another garage. I found that there was a corroded pin for the live for n75. This pin was in a multi plug under the air filter housing and above the gearbox. Have also seen a lot of broken wires above the gearbox in the past in the loom.
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Had a vw t5 tdi common rail in during the week . Engine workshop coming up on dashboard. Checked with vcds. Fault was cam and crank incorrect correlation. In measured value's was getting very similar reading as yours on this log. Don't know end result yet as it's booked in next couple of weeks for me to check valve timing.
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Shouldn't cam speed be half of crank ? group 51 looks slightly out to me ..? Who changed the belt? 0.8l per hour consumption sounds a bit high as well.
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The MOT test will soon be changing to include a test for diesel particulates and soot. This test measure the effectiveness of your DPF and your vehicle will fail it’s MOT if you’ve been naughty. Supposed to be a crackdown planned for 2016/2017. The government are also thinking along the lines of ved evasion and void insurance on this issue. Still some way to go here and no im not wanting to start a "bun fight " but might be worth some careful consideration before reaching for the angle grinder.Thanks for the help guys, got a pressure sensor from TPS and fitted it last night, bit of a faff getting the hoses off the old one but was successful with a bit of perseverence.
The old sensor was indeed a made in US one which amazingly has lasted 8 years and 150k miles.
I adapted the sensor which I assume was sucessful as nothing indicated otherwise, and immediately got the DPF warning light on and a message in maxidot to follow DPF instructions in manual. So this morning I triggered a regen on the way to work and got the DPF load coeficient down to 1.2% (I assume this refers to the soot loading as it went down steadily from around 58.6 down to 1.2). The DPF light went off I think around 10 or 12%.
The only concern I have now is that VCDS reports a Particulate Filter Carbon Mass of 58.0 which I assume is the ash content of the filter. I believe the maximum is 60.0 which would suggest I only have around 5000 miles till my DPF is full (I guess this is to be expected at 150k miles?). Does this sound correct? If so I will start saving for its removal now.
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They also hiccup in your tyre's and spit in your coolant if you take it to a good dealer.
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£159 for an oil change! Could do it yourself for £30 all in.
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Or when they undone the 17mm feed pipe the 14mm union came undone...seen that one before. As for the return pipe gasket. Probably not and probably not the union banjo bolt seals. Check your invoice for what part's are on it.sounds like they never replaced the oil feed/return gasket.
I'd take it back and get them to sort their work out.
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They might be able to do it in less than 20 hour's this time.
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Well spotted.Doesn't cover Mk 3 Octy? Ends at 2013.
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http://partscatalog.info/ here you can in future look at it to your hearts content.
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Looks like the tank pump is working then and like you said my underpants are good for a while. You could disconnect the fuel pipe at the bulkhead put the ignition on to make sure it's being lifted to the fuel filter. It is the black pipe you want to disconnect. Black is feed and blue is return . Really a dtc code would be ideal. See how you get on. Update when you can. An injector failure can happen at any time. The ecu on this engine if it sees a fault from the injectors will shut it down immediately. I may be jumping to conclusions here. Could be an earth problem like you said. Main earth points will be in the scuttle near the ecu. One high on the chassis nsf. About 3 nsf lower chassis leg all connected together. Possible one on osf chassis leg. Should also be a small one on the engine itself from the engine wiring loom. Wire breakage is common especially around starter motor and any sharp points on the engine.
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Try disconnecting battery 1st. It costs nothing and has fixed many a non start for me. It's just like turning off and restarting a computer and you know that normally works at home. If that does not work with starting it might with communication. Other than that maybe can bus has gone down. Or my next thought would be a faulty injector. If one goes down it will not start. But it's way easier if we can access fault codes.
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Under rear seat. Black cover on driver's side rear. If you don't have one I will eat my own underpants.
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You will still have an electric lift tank pump. Try disconnecting the battery . Leave it off for half an hour. Reconnect and try it.
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Did you say you have vcds? You can check cam and crank speeds in measured values. Could also save the value's or take a photo and post it back here.
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VRS TSI Clutch Slip / Replacement after 17K Miles / Skoda reluctantly pays-out after proof of defect
in Skoda Octavia Mk III (2013 - 2020)
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Ok so either the clutch fairy got to it in the first 20 miles or ...?
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