Engine in limp mode.

 

A/C compressor burnt out a year or so ago. replaced some 7 years ago. The wiring loom to the compressor was also damaged.

The compressor spindle does not turn and so I was driving the car without air con. 

If I turned the air con on the auxiliary belt would smoke and smell of burnt rubber emanated.

 

Now the engine runs but about five seconds after ignition the air con compressor is switched on regardless of the climatronic settings.

So looking to scrap it.

 

Mechanically and bodywork is good that apart.

Any suggestion welcome?

EG Sell or scrap or break?

I am in the sticks 3 miles to the nearest town.

 

 

Maybe advertise 'For spares or repair' on enthusiasts forums.  Briskoda is a good one.

As @roottoot says. Whack it up on here and you'll have more chance of it selling. It's better than scrapping the car IMO, and someone might be able to turn it into something special too.

You could just unplug the electrical connector from the Compressor to stop it operating the Compressor clutch.

 

Then get someone to run a diagnostic to see what is putting the engine into limp mode.

The 1.9 Tdi of that era is pretty bullet proof.

 

May get a few more years out of it.

Thanks for the advice. It has been in limp mode for some time, so I'll have to get a good diagnostic on it

Local garage has been good, but not sure how definitive the diagnostics are?

Edited 22 November, 20214 yr by jackg

Or remove the AC clutch drive plate, they usually self destruct anyway, mine did on my MK1 back in the day and I drove for a decade without AC with the belt freewheeling on the pulley before second hand compressors became freely available & cheap.

 

Got to be better than scrapping one of the last truly great and reliable Skodas.

 

If it freewheels OK before the clutch engages then simply remove the connector as has been suggested.

8 minutes ago, J.R. said:

Got to be better than scrapping one of the last truly great and reliable Skodas.

 

Agreed. Especially when you consider that it's an Elegance with a TDI engine. It probably has a good few years in it yet.

17 hours ago, jackg said:

Thanks for the advice. It has been in limp mode for some time, so I'll have to get a good diagnostic on it

Local garage has been good, but not sure how definitive the diagnostics are?

Have a look at the map of VCDS owners, there may be one close to you will probably be happy to scan your car for a few beer tokens.

https://www.google.com/maps/d/viewer?msa=0&mid=1Td73_uUUqscV3nRm5br_o89PmBU&ll=52.396527458722325%2C-1.8395237437499468&z=7

Pete in Stroud very kindly carried out a diagnostic and there were a lot of faults most of which I am aware.

The turbo one was 17964/P1556 Charge pressure control : negative deviation.

Searching suggested vacuum tubes. so I looked under the bonnet and found a lose tube which should go to the engine, then end of it was split for an inch. So i replaced it with a spare length of blue silicon tubing and the problem is solved, The car accelerates up hills now.

Other faults are: 0532 and 01221: drivers side air bag, which relates to chaffed cable in the door hinge bellows, these were taped up but the bellows were not replaced properly so there is moisture on the cables.

Central locking: 01330, 01331, 01332, 01333, 00930, and 01334. Not looked at this, but I lock it on the key in the door as the switch on the fob to close it, keeps repeating so the battery is now flat in the fob.

The engine under tray is missing removed by mechanic somewhere and not replaced, that allowed water into the passenger side floor which in turn may have affected the central locking module under the passenger seat?

I had not used the car for about 2 months so moisture may have built up in the cabin?