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Hi @JohanBerg I am sorry that I am only replying to your message now. I noticed the same behavior of the unscrewed actuator, which started working for a while, but after re-screwing it jammed again. Since I had already bought a new part, I immediately proceeded to replace it. My way of re-installing the screws, after probably two hours of lying with my head under the dashboard, I decided to stick the screw to my finger using a small drop of glue. Later, I regretted that I did not immediately decide on such a solution. I would save a lot of time. I read on some forums that what breaks down in these actuators is a small rotating resistor. It can be purchased on popular portals such as AliExpress and then replaced it. However, I did not want to risk using a car in which this actuator could break down again, during a holiday trip, for example 🤔

So I fixed the issue and I want to share how I did it 😁 I bought new part. Factory installed module V426 was number 5Q0907511A but part available in official distribution currently has new number 5WA907511C (note, that I write about part for Denso HVAC unit). Removing the dashboard is not required to replace V426/V428 module (in LHD vehicles) although the official service manual begins with this step. Access to this part is possible from the bottom - under steering column or as you prefer: above pedals. If you want to do that without removing the dashboard you should remove knee airbag (mounted on 3 torx screw) and next: remove left footwel vent (mounted on only one torx screw). You don't must unplug knee airbag, you just need to unscrew it and rest against on the center tunnel. When you remove this two parts, you get access to problematic servomotor. Be very careful when removing screws from V426, because when they fall, it will be very difficult to locate and remove them. With the screws removed, you remove the module from the climatronic mechanism axis, and then you need to unplug the plug - a small screwdriver may be useful, but there's not much space to work with both hands. In fact there is no space, so you have to work in a truly paralytic position. When you disconnect the plug, the module is ready to be removed. I have one advice for you: before you start unscrewing the module, restore power to the car and turn on the ignition. Next, turn on the ventilation and switch the airflow directions (face, feet, windshield) looking in front of the removed footwell vent, watch if the flaps inside the HVAC unit moves when you click the buttons on the air conditioning panel. In my case, the flaps were dead. Mounting new part - now the true play starts. Step one: connect the plug to new module but not try to mount it yet. Next: turn on ignition and try to choose combination of climatronic switches to set up new module in position which allows to to mounting its on axle of HVAC unit (in other words: you have to set the new motor in the same position as the old, disassembled module was in) When the axle and new part is synchronized, you mount servomotor on the place. Then you screw the motor with two screws: at the bottom and top. Installing the top mounting screw is dramatically difficult. Putting the top mounting screw is so heavy because there is no space at all to grab it with even two fingers. A moment of inattention and the screw drops, and its find is another challenge. When you screwed the motor with the two screws, turn on the ignition and check the flaps again during switching the airflow direction on the air conditioning panel. In my car the flaps came to life. You will also need to perform adaptation and read errors from the HVAC controller. The adaptation can be started on the air conditioning panel - turn on the airflow: to the windshield, to the legs and to the face vents, and then press "AC" + "front vents" buttons at the same time for 3 seconds. When its finish again check errors in HVAC module and clean them. If adaptation was finished correctly errors shouldn't back. During adaptation you can observing via left footwel vent that flaps are working right. At the end you mount again footwell vent and knee airbag and are you going for a test ride to testing that HVAC works right. If you unplugged battery you should also make test ride for few km's, next check and clear faults in all car modules. In authorized Skoda service center in Polad repair of this issue costs about 450 EUR (with dashboard and central tunnel removing). I repaired myself this fault for the price of about 70 EUR 🤭 However a lot of self-denial is required for made it. Good luck 😁 and sorry for my English...

Yes I know the part number. In my case the number is 5Q0907511A. But you should like to know, that in Skoda Octavia were installing two types climatronic unit - from two manufacturers: Denso and Valeo. HVAC module in my car was produced by Denso. In cars with Valeo's HVAC the part number should be: 5Q0907511J. Unfortunately, I'm not sure if these two servomotors can be used interchangeably. And one more errata to my previous post: I wrote wrong symbol of the part 11: Heating and electrical manually controlled air conditioning system - air distribution flap control motor: V428 Climatronic - front air distribution flap control motor: V426 At this moment I know that replacement of V426/V428 module in LHD vehicles is possible without removing dashboard despite the fact that the official service manual recommends starting work by removing the dashboard. It's possible, but it isn't easy and not very comfortable.

Hello! I've got the same problem in my Skoda Octavia mk3 '17. I've noticed yesterday that I can't off front vent - blower is blowing on face, independent that I turn on or off switch. When I try to enable blowing "on socks" on climatronic panel - nothing happen. Other functions of HVAC works good. Adaptation which was shown in link above doesn't help. During adaptation I can't hear any incorrect noises, such as crackles or clicking from HVAC flaps or some servomotor. When I plugged diagnostic interface I saw the same fault code in HVAC module (928364). I looked at the official documentation of the heating system in Octavia and concluded that cause of the fault must be a damaged V428 module (front air distribution flap control motor) or some mechanical problem with the flap. The service manual says that on LHD cars, the dashboard must be removed for repair. In RHD vehicles access to the V428 servo motor is quite easy, because it is placed on the same side as LHD vehicles... and it means, that you should remove glovebox and you can get access to problematic part. However, I would like to ask if anyone replaced this motor in left-hand drive cars, and if so, is it really necessary to disassemble the entire dashboard, or maybe it is enough to remove the knee airbag pad and it would be possible to get there without disassembling the board? Today I checked whether the flap motor could not be accessed after removing the instrument panel, but it doesn't resolve problem with access. Servomotor placed too deep...

Hi amp1967, In case water in the spare wheel: first you should check vent frames which are places under rear bumper, under both lamps. Above those frames is mounted two hoods, which are preventing drip the water through vents to inside of the boot. Sometimes those hood or frames are falling down from the vents gap and then water comes down to the boot and collecting in the spare wheel. If you want to check this you should unmount both rear lamps (you don't have to unmount bumper yet). Then you will seeing those vents frames with hoods. If you press these frames, the problem may be resolved. On this picture you may see what about I wrote (shot from briskoda.net):

Hi @Rustica! I'm so sorry for long delay. Chain for the oil pump has a number 03F115225. Regards!

Quality of silencers in Fabia mk2 are just tragical. A year ago I replaced both silencers in my Fabia mk2 from 02.2011. My car had in those time about 68k km mileage. Availability of original exhaust isn't good. I checked availability direct in czech internet shops. Finally I bought whole exhaust from VW Polo 6R 1.2 TSI. My old silencers wad made in Czech Republic, but new exhaust which I bought was made in Spain. I'm curious if the new exhaust will be better than factory czech silencers. Below photos that show corrosion level of my factory exhaust after 68k km mileage. Drama.

Hi All! I have Skoda Fabia which was produced 02.2011 (engine 1.2 TSI CBZA). First time I heard rattle noises (about 3 seconds, during start of engine) from the timing chain when the car had mileage 18k km. Later - the noises was happen from time to time but rarely. After driving mileage 85k km rattle was happen more often. I was made precisious researching on this topic on many forums and in Skoda's TPI documents. Skoda made two repair kit for their cars: 03F198229A (includes chain 03F109158K) for cars < 11.2011 03F198158B (includes chain 03F109158G) for cars > 11.2011 However, I saw such topics on the russian automotive forums that shows it repair kit "B" is also possible to mount in cars which were produced before November 2011. It was very interesting, especially if I saw posts describes that repair kit with "A" doesn't resolve problem with rattling noises. After I logged to the paid Skoda's website for repairers (ERWIN) and putting VIN number of my car I found quite new TPI document no 2037419/11 from 2016.03.30. It describes for examples how to check chain elongation and how to follows if results of the checking shows that timing chain must be replaced. In this document is also written that my engine should be repaired with using repair kit 03F198158B. However, I sent a few mails to authorized Services of Skoda in Poland with question about repair method (which repair kit they plan to used in my car and how much it will be cost). Exactly I wanted find out that they are using recommended repair kit for my engine. I got different responses from them. Unfortunately the most of Services wrote me that right repair kit for my car is 03F198229A with the timing chain "K". It's sad but probably they never heard about document TPI 2037419/11. Happily I'm found in Warsaw one authorized Skoda Service which was familiar about the TPI and they offered me repair my car with using kit 03F198158B. Repair of my Fabia took place in March 2017 when the car had 90k km mileage. Additionally I asked them about changing chain for oil pump. If in engines with timing belt in case of his replacement usually was recommend also replacing water pump, I thought that in CBZA engine good idea could be replace both chains driven from crankshaft. I just wanted that all parts which are cooperating with timing chain and his sprockets was changing, especially that chain of oil pump hasn't any tensioner and probably was also longer and it could be a source of rattle noises. The authorized Skoda Service realized the repair. They replaced my factory timing chain on repair kit 03F198158B and they also mounted new drive of oil pump (chain + sprocket) according for my request. Now I have 98k km and from the replacing date I don't hear any noises. Engine works great. Below I show how looks my factory timing chain and his parts after 90k km. There wasn't tragedy, but I think it was good time to replacing both chains and guide rails, tensioner, sprockets. Camshaft sprocket and elongation of timing chain: Oil pump sprocket and chain elongation: Crankshaft sprocket and timing chain: Crankshaft sprocket damages: Both chains: Regards!

Hi, I think that I would have decided to conversion rear brakes only when I would buy a new original axle with all required equipments (6Q0500051). It is not cheap (~300 EUR) but I think that it gives a feel of safety. New rear axle was selling in some internet shops, but now I didn't find current offers with this parts. http://www.nd-skoda-volkswagen.cz/cz/autodily-skoda/fabia/podvozek/7212-naprava-zadni-fabie.html Buying used parts is very risky, especially when the car from which the parts were putting has an accident, especially on the rear.

Damage of tube not always should means leaks from air condition, because it is only cover. Greasy stains may be old and it would happend for example during previous service of your A/C. If you have to check tightness you should clean the greasy stains and going to A/C services. During service of A/C they usually add a bit of contrast. If your A/C installation isn't tightness you may find places of leaks if you have UV flashlight. Contrast which was added to installation will be shine in place of leaks.

In fact, you would find in the internet examples of the conversion even then rear axle hasn't mount points for brake caliper. I saw some topics on the russian forums which describes how to replace drum brakes to disc brakes without changing a rear axle. It is possible when you add special conversion kit, which is a plate includes the mount points. But there is a problem. Because the plate with the mount points you should mounting between rear axle and support plate of drums it makes a higher distance between ABS sensor and magnetic ring includes in a hub. Furthermore, the conversion kits are produced by third party companies and I'm not sure that the solution is safety. Good brakes is extremely important system in each car. I saw somewhere in the internet the conversion kit from original parts, but it was be only for VW Golf mk3. Below two links with examples to use the conversion kit (on the one picture you would see problem with the ABS sensor): https://www.drive2.ru/l/8556891 https://www.drive2.ru/l/8558663/ I don't recommend that solution and I never install that in my car. In my opinion it is unprofessional.

Hi Matty, This case is very simple. You should take some flashlight and crouch behind your car and you have a look at your rear wheels under the car. You can replace drum brakes in disc brakes only when your rear axle has a mount points for brake caliper - I'm mark it by circle on the picture. If you have looking under your car you should see it. In Fabia mk2 Skoda unfortunately were mounted rear axle matched to type of rear brakes. For example, in my Fabia from 02.2011 I have drum brakes and I have in my car rear axle without the mount points for brake caliper, but in my father's car (Fabia mk1 '02) rear axle is universal and has that "ears" for brake caliper. In that case if you have replace factory drum brakes you should buy a new rear axle with the mount points such as at the picture. Buying a used rear axle is very risky because until you installed the new axle in your car you don't will find out that the axle is right or is distort. Regards!

Hi All! My English isn't so good, however I belive that you are understanding me I'm read this topic and i think that the easiest method to realize remote control for central locking will be adding to your car some car alarm, for example BKA700002 - from original Skoda parts. I had the same case a few years ago when I drove Fabia mk1 '07. It was a car in "Basic" version with "Fresh" packet (A/C + central locking + electric front window + rear parking sensors). I'm installed original alarm system dedicated for that car (BKA400002) and everyting worked fine, central locking was steering via additional remote control included with the alarm kit. I was happy for that. In Fabia mk2 central locking is realizing various ways, depends from production date of your car. In cars after "face lifting" (>2010) all tasks related with comfort functions are realized in BCM module (J519 module). The module includes also receiver and transmitter for central locking because you have right BCM module type in your car to operate central locking with factory remote control which you bought. However I'm not sure that Fabia mk1 before "face lifting" not depending additional modules to operate factory remote control. I'm certain that in Fabia before FL included separate comfort module (independs for BCM), and you probably you should change that module if you should to using factory remote control. You should see an electrical schemes for your car. Skoda offering the interesting service such ERWIN (https://erwin.skoda-auto.cz/) which allows you to download (for example) electrical schemes for their cars. You should pay for an hour and seeking interesting information about central locking and remote control for your car

Hi All! I found this topic when I searched information about problems with central locking. In my car the problem happened after BCM module replacement (cruise control installation). After a few weeks after replace factory module 6R7937085D to 6R7937087H I saw first problem with the central locking in my Skoda Fabia (prod. 02.2011). From time to time (e.g. once a week) central locking doesnt unlock some doors: rear right, front right, tailgate or all of this doors at the same time. The problem with unlocking was solved every time itself - automatically after over a dozen minutes. After the problem in BCM module is logging some fail codes, depends which doors were problem with unlocked. Below is print for diagnostic scan: Central electronics Part #: 6R7937087H Coding: 7C980B9808210048002000002C0B088000C0400F600000000000 (hex) Component: PQ25 BCM Fault codes: 03437 Control Circuit for Motor for Central Locking, safe 03301 Feedback Locked-Position Drivers-Door 03302 Feedback Locked-Position Passengers-Door 03303 Feedback Locked-Position rear-left 03304 Feedback Locked-Position rear-right After long researching I found solution for this problem. The problem is known in central knowledge base in Skoda services and it was registered in TPI document no 2026500/2 from 2011-07-14. In some BCM modules which were produced before 45 week in 2011 such errors can happen. In the TPI document Skoda describes how to fix this problem. Fixing the problem requires mounting two additional parts (TVS diode) on the cable harness (only) in driver's door. Those two transils is protecting from voltage spikes induced on wires and resolves the problem with failures in central locking circuit. Skoda did makes repair kit to permanently fixing the problem: 5J0 971 658. In one car you have two kits (one box contains one transil). The BCM modules which were produced after 45 week of 2011 was modified and problems with the errors in central locking circuit shouldn't happen. Probably the new BCM modules which produced after the date contains those transils in the box and central locking works fine. Detail about the repair (where and how to mount the diodes) you will find in the TPI document.