Exportio_vRS

Just added some , however i had to shrink the buggers so that i could get them on. Also i wasnt able to get to a jet wash to clean it so its covered in bugs booooooooooo Ross

Basically ive bought the new car and cant afford to insure two fast turbo motors, i need to buy somethin smaller for the wife to learn in and insure. Trade in is pish money but i dont have time or the money to wait around for a higher price, so the £3400 pays off a few things and buys a wee motor for the wife

Hmmm, Not that i can think of, I bought it from my Dad 4 years ago and he bought it from the Skoda Dealer in Aberdeen and thats the only two other owners on the Reg Docs, it also is an Aberdeen Registered No Plate (SV) Ross

THIS CAR IS NOW SOLD!!!!!!!!! Right where do i start. Basically my Dad has bought a new 10 Plate FL White Octy vRS and is due delivery around the 12th of this month. I have purchased his 56 Plate Yellow Octy vRS and expect to get it after he renews the MOT on the 17th of this month (Its only got 18,000 miles ) therefore my WRC will be available very soon. Skoda Octavia vRS WRC No 068/100 (Destickered) 2002, 02 Plate Approx 62,000 Miles (Cant remember exact figure) Full Skoda Service History 7 Months MOT 6 Months TAX Recent new alternator and battery New BREMBO MAX Disc's and Black Diamond predator pads New rear brake pads Cambelt, Water pump and rollers done 1 year and 11 months ago New front ARB a year ago Aircon re-gassed a year ago New fog light and full beam bulbs all the MOT's and Tax discs since ive had it and loads of invoices etc etc Exterior paint in "Candy White". Build number badge on dashboard, located above central air vents. Format: 068/100 Xenon Headlights with washers. Front Side Seat Airbags. ESP. VRS front door kickplates. Rear Mudflaps. B Pillar covers in black (included in exterior graphics, but actually a seperate OEM part). Heated Front Seats. Side rubbing strips deleted. White 17" Spyder alloys. a couple of chips CD player and 6 CD Changer. The Modifications are as below Koni FSD's & H&R Springs Brembo Max Discs & Black Diamond Predator Pads Forge 007p Carbonio Cold Air Induction Kit Milltek Downpipe and Sports Cat + Non resonated cat back exhaust (nice burble not to loud) REVO Technik Stage II Remap Toyo T1R's Good tread all round Medium Smoke Tinted back Windows + Light Smoke Front Side Windows Dogbone poly bush Bad points There is a small car park ding on the driver side rear door, also there is a small scuff on the driver side front door from someone reversing out a space (I always park miles from the entrance to stop this sort of crap happening and some b*****d still got me ). The paint is starting to look a little bit aged, a bit of detailing from people in the know would freshen it right up (It is an 8 year old car at the end of the day). The front bumper has a lot ofstone chips on it, again something you would expect from an 8 year old car. Need a new nearside drop link and top strut bearing but this will be done on Sat 07th Aug I will put up some pictures later tonight once i am home from work I am looking for around £3400 o.n.o. On the whole ive spanked a fair bit of cash on this car in the last 4 years of ownership. It flew through all its MOT's bar the last one when i needed a new rear passenger side brake caliper as it had the common fault of being sticky. I will miss it mainly because of how rare it is but also as its a great car, but im so looking forward to gettin the new one. Ross WRC_068

I would recommend BREMBO MAX Discs which are slightly grooved, they come in between OEM discs and your £200+ uprated discs and there are plenty of them on EBAY (Bought for around £115 front pair for Mk1 vRS) and i also have them mated to some Black Diamond Predator pads which i got from DC Performance (Delivered really quick). I find them to be better than OEM, more bite and feel and i do a fair bit of spirited driving on country roads to and from work. Only issue is that i have a Modded MkI vRS so dont know how they perform on the MkII but I am buying my Dads MkII vRS in a couple of months and will, when needed replace with the same combo. Ross WRC_068

I have the same combo on my WRC and i catch things all the time. I have sat it next to my mates standard silver vRS and my car sits quite a bit lower than it, it seems to be a lot more than 15mm. I have also noticed that the vRS front bumper is lower underneath the car than at the front and it has a 1 - 2 cm lip so thats the bit thet gets caught if you go to far over a curb or fold down bolards Ross WRC_068

I've gone through two sets of H.I.D./Xenon style L.E.D.'s so it has been good to read some of the previous posts. What i have since found out is that VAG cars run between a 12-15v electrical system so a basic vRS will probably be fine with L.E.D.'s at approx 12v, but my vRS has all the extra kit on it e.g. heated seats, H.I.D./Xenons headlights etc so if you are like me and drive with your headlights on all the time and being winter have heaters on high, heated seats on, rear window heating element on for demisting etc then the system starts running closer to 15v which will just blow a bog standard 12v L.E.D. I have since found H.I.D./Xenon style L.E.D.'s that are rated at, up to 15v and have been informed this will rectify the problem of them failing. If these last then great it was the previously mentioned problem. If they fail then its more likely to be the heat soak issue that that have been spoken about in this thread, although i cant see it being that as i have plenty of friends who all have different motors that run a mixture headlight combos and all there L.E.D.'s have been fine, even the ones that have the side lights very close to the dipped and full beam !! Only time will tell so i'll give you an update once they are fitted and been running for a while. regards Ross WRC_068

Awesome H1's it is then :yes: !! Ross

Awesome mate thanks, could do with the fog lights too seen as i'm gonna have to take the flippin bumper of and pull the lights out. Might as well do the whole lot

Ladies & Gents, I have H.I.D. / Xenon's on my vRS but obviousley my full beam is just a standard bulb and i want to replace it with a whitey blueish bulb to match my dipped beam and get some L.E.D. side lights to match. Does anyone know what type of bulb the full beam is????? Thanks in advance, Ross WRC_068

Thats not bad, the official brochure figures are pretty much exactly what I get from mine (worked out properly not from the onboard computer) happy days especially as mine isn't at all standard. So the lesson here is modify your car as you'll still get the same figures as the standard Skoda figures YEEEH!!! Ross WRC_068

Speaking of headlights being removed anyone know what bulb to get for full beam and fog when you have xenon lights?:confused: Ross WRC_068

I wonder when they changed from creamy beige to grey or black

Great write up Mike, enjoyed reading it. My graphics were removed/sprayed over by the dealer in Aberdeen, unfortunately this has now made my car go a bit cream coloured instead of candy white. All my headlining is like a beize/cream colour. Ross WRC_068

I'll try and sort out the secondary air pump and see what it sounds like after that. Can anyone remember what size the nut and bolt is to fix it?? Ross WRC_068

I'm pretty sure that my aircon needs regassing as it is no longer freezing cold but I also have a strange noise when my fan is on. It sounds like air going through an empty diving cylinder. Does anyone know if this is also an indication that it needs regassed or is this possibly a seperate fault? Thanks Ross WRC_068

Mines has been making this noise too and the stuttering but you can hear it switch off and obviously get more quiet but i still have what sounds like a blowing exhaust even when warm ( I have had the exhaust checked more than 5 times and it isn't blowing). Is this part of the same problem or completely different??? Ross WRC_068

I got mine Stage II Remapped by REVO at 22,000 I drive my car hard and I'm now on 52,000 no problems so far !! Touch wood Ross WRC_068

Dude check inside your filler flap that covers the access to filling up your fuel, it should have the pressure in BAR on the back of it For 205/50/17 it is Front 210 (2.1) / Back 220 (2.2) This equates to Front 30 psi / Back 32 psi for a lightly loaded car Ross WRC_068

Had my Toyo T1-R's for a year, don approx 10000, I live in the country so drive on lots of A roads with the odd A1 bloody drive in between and I dont hang about!! unfortunately I have a very heavy right foot and love attacking corners. I must say that I am very happy with them and believe that I could get at least another 7 months out of them before I need a change on the fronts. They are awesome in the wet and also frosty / icy / snowy conditions and at 92 quid a corner for 225/45/17 I am more than happy with the price Ross WRC_068

Yeh mines has a rear wash wipe as standard too Ross WRC_068

Mines definately has a warning tone if you leave the lights on Ross

Ah crap, lol how to look like a rite knob , i didn't read it correctly, should this question not be in the Motorsport Discussion section :confused: Ross

I own one, the engine is exactly the same as in all other vRS's 180bhp, only differences are White Alloys, White paint without the black side strips (Police vRS's have white paint silver alloy's and black side strips) Xenon's heated saets etc etc as standard, a dash mounted piece of metal with ***/100 mines being 068/100 and rally style graphics which skoda removed from my car before i bought it Ross