OutlawKen

Glad I found this, tried looking on you tube the other day but must have put the wrong search in, my vrs struggles from 3rd to 2nd sometimes and wanna try this before I start buying bits

Il be honest I no nothing about the 1.9 diesel but I would check your egr system if it has one for cleanliness as a dirty egr can cause these sorts of issues, if you can get the air feed to your turbo off have a feel of the turbine shaft, you should have no more than a tiny bit of movement up and down as well as in and out, your seals aint blown cos ud have non stop smoke if they had.

Hey fella whats the drive by dB? Can I pay ya a deposit for 2 spaces and settle on the 28th?

When I fitted my coilovers I gunned me wheels up and I now have a front wing hanging off, stud conversion and me 3rd set of wheels! Wont do that again!

Well what a git that was! Had a belt noise in engine for a little while now and thought it was the aux belt or a pulley on that belt so didnt really worry and I could have paid the price! When I checked it the noise weren't as far forward as the aux belt and I could hear it was under the cam cover which instantly made me think "o my water light came on today, must be the water pump, o shhhh*******" Needless to say id just bought my tt ball joints, hubs and bearings for my tt arms and really didnt have money left over for a cam belt and water pump kit. Backed into a corner I went on ebay and found a gates kit for just under 100 quid which I think is a great price just had to wait a couple days for payday. The car was driven very smoothly for those few days knowing I could blow it up! So kit came and as luck would have it I was asked to swap a late shift for a early meaning 20 hours between shifts so at 16.30 monday the car went on the ramp. Now im only a diy mechanic, have only done 1 cam belt before and that took me ages so thought id need 6 hours for the vrs. I was wrong! 3.30 in the morning I rolled it off the ramp! Belt was out by a tooth on my first attempt and had issues with the m5 thread tool you need to wind the tensioner down (I bent it In half) but now everythings spot on, car runs better and the old water pump was completely shot which is good. Im a messy one! What was removed, would be nice to remove more pipes and the power steering bottle but thought best not to. Said pipes and a tiny bit of the bottle. Pump was clearly leaking for a while. Cars gonna hit 140k this month so new belt and tensioners gives me peace of mind. Its had a belt in the past as I found old marks and it werent to worn but tensioner was original and so was the water pump. Next up fit my hubs and front n/s lock mech

If you've got the cash ready il step aside mate, I had me water pump blow yesterday so need to sort that first

Soon as I fire it up, if I put pressure on the top of the cam cover I can change the noise, either the belts rubbing or the pump bearings are shot which im going with due to the water light coming on recently. I can play a tune if I rev it! Think il have to do the job tomo or borrow a car from work cos its a ticking time bomb

So aux belts fine! Bad news is the noise is under the cam cover and add to the fact I have a new water leak im looking at a water pump and cam belt, the joys!

Interested in the carpet, can I pay ya a deposit Friday and collect in a few weeks time? Insurance renewal due so gotta watch the pennys til its done

If ya can wait til friday for payment il have it please, if I bung a tenna on can ya post?

Il get it on the ramp this week and have a look and spray some wd40 around the pulleys. Might be time for me to fit the lightweight set I bought a while ago. Just annoys me as I wanna fit my tt hubs next!

Done this twice on mine when I replaced my turbo then had leaks! Once the turbo inlet pipe is off, the 3 bolts to the turbo removed and the turbo lowered by undoing the bracket its easy to get these off as long as you move the turbo side to side to gain access. I will warn you all the 3 turbo bolts are stretch bolts so not reusable and even the new ones from tps I had undid so I ended up putting ridged washers under them that crushed and provided grip to the heads of the bolts, no part number as they are a DAF trucks washer

As above my vrs is very noisy at the mo and I dont wanna buy a belt if im gonna need a tensioner or a pulley changed as well so do any of you no of a common pulley to go down? Thankyou

Is all the paint off the mating surface and is it completely flat? Im wondering is it possible for a small warp from it being cooked in ya oven?

Good luck, maybe the gasket pinched?

Are you not suppose to use sealant on these normally? I no on my old bmws you have to use it on the cam half moons to get a seal. Hope this fix works for ya dude, cant see why it wont

Looks about the size of a roll bar

So been off a few weeks since getting the locks sorted and the mot done, now have a third lock delivered on the front n/s as its starting to not lock everytime and il sort that soon. The car had a even more important job this week than when it took me friend to his wedding. This is my daughter ellie on her way home from the hospital. Car did me proud, coilovers didnt bother her at all haha.

Sounds like a sensor sync issue, might have been some dirt somewhere although im fully aware of these buggers having pants sensors

So I can report I have working rear doors again and although not perfect and not finished im happy cos it ment I could get the mot done and she passed hooraaahh. My track day buddy did thd test just needing to fit a number plate bulb and adjust my head lights (electric adjuster has never worked and is near the bottom of the fix list) Had 3 advisories of which 2 were tyres near to 3mm and the other is slight play in a ball joint which is coming off for a tt lower arm and hub upgrade anyway so very happy especially after last years failing mot with a list of jobs. Have added this photo for people searching dead locked doors, this is my rear n/s lock after drilling it and knocking motor cog out the way cos as I did that it clonked and let me open the door, no smashing required, I was trying to get to the lower cog to wind it up to un dead lock but once the motor cog was removed it let me open the door, now im thinking I got lucky as I have heard never of this working before but il take it. Only issue I had was the new aftermarket lock that side once bolted up didnt have enough clearance between the outer mechanisms and door frame so I kept getting a slack inside handle but only when the door card was bolted up which was annoying, nothing a pry bar cant solve Happy happy man

Mini update time, bought the rear lock mechs from ebay a few weeks back and finally fitted the off side one today as that door lock just electrically dead rather than dead locked. Fairly easy job although I think I may have broken the outer handle were it hooks inside but il have another look at it tomo. Now tomo is gonna be interesting as ill hopefully get my "deadlock buster" wings on the other door. Will need a front passenger one soon too as its starting to disobey. On a modified note I have started collecting tt/lrc front bits, got the lower arms with powerflex bushes for a good price, will get the hubs and new bearings next and fit it all up, not sure if il go all the way with a sub frame and quick rack but time will tell

I no everyone asks everytime you buy something but how much for the aerial fella? Mines manky and have no mw and fm is worse on damp mornings

Personally I find your email from them wierd, are they genuine bbs? I would assume all wheels are tested to breaking point and then the load rate is established at a safe working load. I cant see a company as world renowned as bbs admitting to thinking these wheel would only be used on small cars! Lets also consider most modern small cars, say golfs, focuses, even fiestas and corsas are probably not far off if not more heavy than our vrs's. Anyways the load is per corner so a octavia is lighter than their concern weight, for normal driving it shouldn't be a issue. Again I would have expected that information to say something about normal use and track use if it was real. If you want a real professionals opinion give r tec in st albans a bell, very helpful guys and a genuine bbs supplier for many years what with their dad being the guy who created ripspeed before halfords bought the name

I just paid 34.95 for the pair so just slightly more than them, il have to keep that company in mind, cheers fella Cant wait to get it all fitted, feels a little loose and rattly since I put my coilovers and poly tops on

I did look on ecp and lemforder are their best, might order a pair with this 30% discount they got on at the mo