DrCorbyLee

Unfortunately as with most problems with modern cars, think the first action here is to get a full scan of all controllers with VCDS or similar to identify any faults associated with the door. That will hopefully then allow you to zero in on suspect component(s) to investigate

Personally I'd fix the know fault ('stat) and then see what results is. Can't make it worse! Then full scan with VCDS or similar to see if any faults showing. And check obvious things like tyre pressures and air filter (recall air filter is every third service which as I'm on variable interval would be every 54k or so, way too long, i'm old enough to remember when air filters were down every few K and paper filter technology hasn't changed that much in the 40 plus Years I've been driving. I change air filter every service (so about every 12 months) as a decent OEM filter e.g. Mann is just over a tenner from Halfords. Ditto fuel filter done every service, small cost but helps keep high mileage motor (175K) ticking over and hopefully helps avoid the big bills) You also haven't said what sort of journeys the 35mpg was from and what engine you have. Genuine 35mpg (so likely closer to 40mpg indicated) might not be bad for short journeys in town (especially if yours is petrol) I struggle to get above 40mpg indicated on that sort of use.

My own experience is that when my DSG 'stat failed, there was a hit in fuel consumption which you can understand as everything on a modern diesel is optimised to run at correct temperature. But it was maybe 10% down from recollection. I have a 170 4x4 that I use like a van, always absolutely full of my work tools etc (maybe 250kg) with just the driver's seat empty (until the 120kg dead weight sits in it :-) and routinely get indicated 50+ mpg on a long motorway cruise. But when 'stat was playing up, was more like an indicated 45 mpg on same journey. But your figures suggest more like a true 35 mpg. So sorting the 'stat has to help but wouldn't suprise me if you don't have another issue affecting fuel consumption, sorry.

From recollection takes around an hour but symptoms does suggest might be struggling to read a copy disc :-(

Yep, vintage 2013 V10 map so updating to V17 will get you half way to current roads! Still worth doing. Bear in mind that can be problems installing maps from non-genuine DVD. The disc you are looking at buying will be a copy burnt onto a dual layer recordable disc, consensus seems to be dirty / old laser lens struggles to read the second layer of these discs. Had previously done 3 or 4 upgrades without problem, but my last upgrade initially failed (leaving me with no map on hard drive :-( Had to use a cd lens cleaner before it would successfully read whole disc and install on hard drive

A 5 second hold of setup button gets you into "Radio service mode" menu and in there is a versions information button: At the bottom of the versions info screen is the map version

Assuming the interior lights work correctly in the on position (one click forward from auto) , the issue is almost certainly down to the off/auto/on switch for interior lights in ceiling just above rear view mirror. The contacts in middle auto position wear / burn out. Unfortunately you have to replace the complete module including switches, map reading lights and alarm interior movement sensors. When I looked, was around £200. Have a 2nd hand one from eBay sat waiting to be fitted once I suss out how to remove the old one.

There is a hidden menu with all the version information. From recollection, you need to press and hold the SETUP button (lowest of 4 buttons on right) until the hidden menu appears. Will double check when go out to car in morning. To decode the map version try https://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/VW_Navigation_System_Maps Superb 2 Columbus is an RNS510 in disguise and so uses CY maps. The last end of life map release was V17 which for west europe maps shows as version 8557 in the columbus hidden menu. Think this was first available at end of 2019, certainly upgraded my maps for the last time with this version just before COVID kicked off

What makes you think the Bluetooth module has failed? In my similar vintage car (63 plate facelift 170 4x4 elegance spec), it occasionally throws a wobbly and stops working until rebooted by pulling plug on it.

Is the car still on original windscreen? Not experienced myself but have seen reference to poorly fitted replacement screens allowing water ingress

The dealer showroom description was "sw@nky", the Briskoda smut filter obviously ignores the first and last characters of the word although some main dealers are also w*nk !!!

Just checked my records and my car had it's fourth transmission service May last year at smidge under 160K miles, bill was just short of £460 + VAT but that was for the DSG oil + Filter change plus haldex diff oil (and filter that dealers don't admit exists let alone change) change as mine's a 4x4. So £413 + VAT does sound a lot for just the DSG service. That said, genuine VAG DSG oil is expensive at almost 26 quid a litre and needs 5 litres plus another 40 quid for the filter, o ring and sump plug. Suspect your price is from a main dealer, crazy labour rate will be what kills this. Some dealers offer a fixed price service, quick Google identifed a Scottish dealer doing the DSG service for £369 Inc VAT. But best bet is to find yourself a decent VAG indy and get then to do it using genuine VAG parts and labour rates that don't fund a s****y showroom. Might be physiological but after each DSG service, gear changes always seem smoother. Could be some physical effect because as well as the oil and filter change, has a clutch adaptation / calibration which takes effect of clutch pack wear and optimises performance. So definitely worth doing from a driveability point of view as well as protecting the gearbox

About 30 quid delivered for after market copy part or 65 quid delivered for genuine Skoda part for CFFB diesel: https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/03l103634m-dipstick-tube-european-union-52684.html Still stupidly expensive for a bit of plastic but suspect significantly cheaper than buying from UK Skoda dealer

Can't directly help with the part numbers but can recommend trying www.skoda-parts.com for these sort of small components. They are a Czech mail order company. Pricing is always significantly lower than UK Skoda main dealers even taking into account delivery charges. Last time I used them, parts arrived next working day using standard less than a tenner delivery! Very good value as long as you stick below the 130 odd quid limit to avoid custom charges, below that the price you see on the website is the total you pay. They also offer option for cheap Chinese, quality EU OEM and genuine VAG for many parts to suit your budget. Plus they have native English speaking UK based agent who is really helpful and knowledgeable and will I'm sure be able to confirm correct part numbers for your car if you confirm VIN (or you can search for car specific parts from website): Patrick Rice sales representative e [email protected] t +44 20 8089 8075

Very good chance that counter intuitively, the issue is actually in the driver's door loom. That's the one that takes most wear and tear as door is opened and closed most often and that door I believe contains a controller that is linked to other three doors. Hence damaged wire in that door loom can cause issues in any of the other 3 doors. A system scan would help pinpoint the issue, or at least confirm that not a issue with controller itself. Needs a VAG specific solution to be able to interrogate all the car's controllers e.g. Obdeleven or VCDS. There are Briskoda members with VCDS who can help, worst case in exchange for a beer token or two. There may be one local to you -

A generic OBD dongle unfortunately won't even be able to read all the car's control modules. Needs something more VAG specific, e.g. VCDS, Obdeleven or Carista, to be able to read fault codes in all modules and also report them in in a format you can understand (text description rather than just code number). I use Carista dongle but rather than pay for Carista subscription, I use Car Scanner Pro app which was from recollection less than a tenner to buy with no on-going costs. Or there are Briskoda members with VCDS who can help, worst case in exchange for a beer token or two. There may be one local to you - Until you can scan all modules you are in the dark. But based on the symptoms it sounds like this could be down to issue with a wheel speed ABS sensor, so many seemingly unrelated systems use data from these sensors e.g. traction control, headlamp AFS, steering. When I had an ABS sensor fail, dashboard lit up like a Christmas tree and also generated multiple warning messages in the Maxidot screen. The good news is that if this is the root cause here then it's a relatively quick and cheap fix with replacement sensors common to many VAG cars (so plenty of copy parts available if you want to go down that route).

Did you get chance to try the press and hold reset? Appreciate that you are confident tyre pressures are ok at moment but what happens when you do have a genuine loss of pressure? Over here you will fail our annual roadworthiness MOT inspection with the TPMS warning light on with a car of this age. I suspect you may have a similar system in NZ so if you are going to just leave the TPMS warning light on, recommend that you check to make sure that this won't cause problems with any such inspection down the line.

I was thinking exactly the same thing, need to press and hold the TPMS as per my original post. Recall it takes several seconds for an audible feedback to happen (confirming new learning cycle started) and the fault light to go out (if it was on). The only way I could see for the press and hold to not work is if there is another fault active somewhere in the TPMS. Were you using something like VCDS or obdeleven that can interrogate all controllers fully for your scan that just showed the tyre low pressure fault? If that was the case and there were no other faults then the press and hold of TPMS button should definitely clear the fault light even if it then reappears after a short drive. Unless of course there is a problem with the button or it's wiring but that's pretty unlikely.

On Superb Mk 2, tyre pressure monitoring is done using abs wheel speed sensors, a lower pressure tyre rotates at different speed to the others as rolling diameter is different. New tyres always trigger the fault for me as the rolling diameter is different to the worn tyres they replaced. Silly question, have you tried resetting using the normal method by pressing and holding the TPMS button adjacent to the gear stick? That resets any fault light but also starts a new learning cycle where the car monitors wheel speed to determine what the new baseline is for current tyres and pressures.

Not sure if copy harnesses are available, mine was genuine part dealer fitted and there will be a slightly different part number to reflect revision. If you ask dealer for price it will be this latest version they offer. You can buy repair kits that you splice into existing loom in door to give new section and plug for outside door. Search this forum for door loom and you'll find plenty of information (was how I know my loom was failing when one speaker in drivers door stopped working, not unique to the Superb 2, common fault in VAG cars of this vintage)

Will likely be driver's door loom with broken wire(s) in the short bundle of cables that site in rubber gaitor and jumps from door jamb to door body . It's pot luck which wires break and hence what starts playing up. Very common fault. Plenty on here re repairing loom or installing complete replacement loom which has been re-engineered with more slack to prevent the same damage in future

Yes, always disconnect the battery before disconnecting anything to do with airbag to avoid generating a fault. You'll need something more powerful than a cheap generic OBD adapter to scan the relevant controller and reset the airbag fault e.g. VCDS, obdeleven or Carista

Hella are just a manufacturer that makes copy/OEM parts including lighting. See https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/468988-nearside-xenon-headlight-unit-needed-for-rhd-superb-ii/ which discusses the Hella part numbers equivalent to the genuine Skoda part numbers and also potential downgrade to halogen headlamps. Even then the Hella parts still make a hole in a grand and a quick web search shows none in stock at moment - https://www.autodoc.co.uk/car-parts/oem/3t2941018h?search=OEN+3T2941018H. And the downgrade to halogen would also be uneconomical. Unfortunately having a component failure that is essentially uneconomical to repair is the downside of running a relatively old but still electronically complex car, so called bangernomics. All that said, I'm not convinced that the issue here can be a failed headlamp unit. Whilst the headlamps are hugely complex bits of engineering (hence the cost) that's mostly to do with the mechanism that swivels the beam up and down and left to right for the AFS functionality (https://www.skoda.co.uk/discover/advanced-light-systems) and the bi-xenon function that flips the output between low and high mean. I can't see how a failed headlamp would cause the xenon bulb to not ignite. How has your mechanic tested the ballast to confirm it's OK? Did they do the suggested ballast swap? Is it possible to swap headlamps around to see if fault follows the headlamp (not sure if enough slack in wiring harness to reach the swapped headlamp which obviously won't fit on wrong side?) What error codes do a VCDS or similar scan show? Such a scan should be the first step of troubleshooting any fault on these cars and will hopefully narrow down where the fault actually lies.

Easiest way to determine if the ballast is definitely the cause of fault is to swap the two ballasts around, if the fault follows the suspect ballasts to other headlamp then the ballasts is definitely the issue. If the fault stays where it is then the fault lies elsewhere.

63 plate is the earliest reg for FL cars. My 63 plate car registered late November 2013 is a FL but have seen other 63 plate cars that are pre-FL, I guess old stock registered on new plate. If that's your car in profile picture it looks very much like a pre-FL car which would explain the apparent behaviour of fog lights.