Tropheus

No, not a big job at all. I did it in less than an hour.

Thanks for the write up. I did this job last weekend on my wife's car. It wasn't too bad in the end. I got the MM struts as recommenced and they work great. I found that I only needed to take the trim below the window off completely. The top piece and the two sides stayed in situ and I was able to move the side pieces sufficiently get the old struts out and the new ones in. The new struts seem much stronger than OEM, I had some job getting the smaller part of the boot closed when the whole lot was open as it required a lot of force to get the clips back in place (if you did the job you'll know what I mean). It also needs a good shove to close the small trunk when open. Overall very happy and the lid pops up again when I press the button.

Thanks for this. I'm not getting any of those symptoms at the minute. Certainly no flashing glow plug light. As I mentioned, this is different to our experience when it went about 7 years ago. I have read references to the DPF being blocked as a possible cause. The car does get a lot of motorway driving and 2-3 long runs a month so I would have thought the opporutnity to regen wasn't an issue.

The check engine light came on my wife's 2013 Superb 1.6 TDi last week. The error seems to point towards the EGR valve. We have the car about 8 years and after the first 6 months, the EGR valve went and was replaced under warranty. That time, the car went into limp mode and was running very badly. This time the car is running fine. I cleared the code a couple of times and it stays off for a week or so and then comes back on. Has anyone had this and the car has run ok or are we in a situation where it will let us down. It's frustrating that this is such a big job given the location otherwise I could take it out and clean it and see if that does anything. It's so much work to get it out that you'd be made not to replace it. Thanks,

This should help. https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/444237-superb-saloon-short-boot-struts/

Could also be a wiring problem in the driver's door where the loom passes through the door hinge area. It can be repaired or you can replace the full loom. Lots of YouTube videos on it. Common problem in VAG cars of the era.

I got a VW CC to replace my long serving Audi Allroad back in June and decided to update it a bit with an LED boot light and puddle lights. I ordered the bits on Aliexpress as most do and then went about fitting. It was really straight forward on the CC (mirror a bit tricky, but doable) and it makes the puddle lights functional as they're pretty useless with the standard W501 bulbs. I then decided to do the same with my wife's 2013 Superb Elegance. Parts arrived from Aliexpress and I had a go today. Firstly, the boot LEDs didn't fit. They looked very similar to OEM, but were slightly longer. I machined them with a Dremel, but it was a chore and they're still not a 100% fit. Then on to the mirrors. Dismantling the Superb wing mirrors is the work of the devil compared to the CC. I eventually got it apart and put in the LED puddle light. However, after 30 mins, I still couldn't get it back together. Eventually I took out the new part and closely compared it to the OEM part. Again, it was slightly different, i.e. taller and was the reason the mirror wouldn't go back together. I eventually put the OEM one back in and reassembled. Not sure why the Aliexpress parts for the VW are dead on and slightly different for the Superb. Anyway, take my advice the don't bother or else suffer a world of pain. I'm going to take a look and see if it's easlier to fit an LED W501 bulb to the puddle light as that will be a whole lot easier. If anyone found a part that does fit, please let me know.

This should help. Yours is likely the Superb 2 facelift so may be slightly different. I know my wife's pre facelift are D1S bulbs. It's possible the facelift are D3S. While D1S and D3S look very similar, the bayonet fitting is different so not interchangeable. I think the only real difference besides that is that D3S are mercury free.

I'd do the rear brakes first and see if that cures it. Had the same rear whining noise intermittently on my wife's 2013 1.6 TDi although not getting any vibration. I checked and couldn't find any evidence of a wheel bearing either. It went through the NCT (Irish version of the MOT) last week and they highlighted that the rear pads need doing shortly. I'm wondering if there was a bit of binding going on causing the noise. I'll do them and see if that solves it.

Thanks. Any idea where I'd find it?

Apologies, just getting back to this. I did a full scan of the car yesterday. There are no errors related to the climate control. In fact, the only faults were related to the Radio and Nav due to me changing the head unit last year. I wonder if the aircon matrix needs a clean or changing? Not sure I'd go to the bother of changing it at this stage as the problem is fairly intermittent.

I did when the problem started first about a year ago. I'll check again to make sure nothing has cropped up since.

Hi, Noticed this a while back in my wife's 2013 1.6TDi Elegence. When on long journeys, usually on motorways, the air stops flowing through the vents and the car heats up. I quickly figured that by turning off the A/C the air returns in a couple of mintues. After a bit of reading, I found that it's due to the aircon matrix freezing and blocking the air flow. The common reason for this is that the system needs a regas. I did that, but still have the problem. From what I can see, there are no error codes. Has anyone else had this problem?

There are contact details on RCD330.com. I believe the guy knows everything there is to know about the RCD330. https://www.rcd330.com/dwqa-ask-question/

That I'm not sure about that. I have read that there are no issues with VW sound systems. Is the Skoda system different to VW or just rebadged?