Tropheus

No, not a big job at all. I did it in less than an hour.

Thanks for the write up. I did this job last weekend on my wife's car. It wasn't too bad in the end. I got the MM struts as recommenced and they work great. I found that I only needed to take the trim below the window off completely. The top piece and the two sides stayed in situ and I was able to move the side pieces sufficiently get the old struts out and the new ones in. The new struts seem much stronger than OEM, I had some job getting the smaller part of the boot closed when the whole lot was open as it required a lot of force to get the clips back in place (if you did the job you'll know what I mean). It also needs a good shove to close the small trunk when open. Overall very happy and the lid pops up again when I press the button.

Thanks for this. I'm not getting any of those symptoms at the minute. Certainly no flashing glow plug light. As I mentioned, this is different to our experience when it went about 7 years ago. I have read references to the DPF being blocked as a possible cause. The car does get a lot of motorway driving and 2-3 long runs a month so I would have thought the opporutnity to regen wasn't an issue.

The check engine light came on my wife's 2013 Superb 1.6 TDi last week. The error seems to point towards the EGR valve. We have the car about 8 years and after the first 6 months, the EGR valve went and was replaced under warranty. That time, the car went into limp mode and was running very badly. This time the car is running fine. I cleared the code a couple of times and it stays off for a week or so and then comes back on. Has anyone had this and the car has run ok or are we in a situation where it will let us down. It's frustrating that this is such a big job given the location otherwise I could take it out and clean it and see if that does anything. It's so much work to get it out that you'd be made not to replace it. Thanks,

This should help. https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/444237-superb-saloon-short-boot-struts/

Could also be a wiring problem in the driver's door where the loom passes through the door hinge area. It can be repaired or you can replace the full loom. Lots of YouTube videos on it. Common problem in VAG cars of the era.

I got a VW CC to replace my long serving Audi Allroad back in June and decided to update it a bit with an LED boot light and puddle lights. I ordered the bits on Aliexpress as most do and then went about fitting. It was really straight forward on the CC (mirror a bit tricky, but doable) and it makes the puddle lights functional as they're pretty useless with the standard W501 bulbs. I then decided to do the same with my wife's 2013 Superb Elegance. Parts arrived from Aliexpress and I had a go today. Firstly, the boot LEDs didn't fit. They looked very similar to OEM, but were slightly longer. I machined them with a Dremel, but it was a chore and they're still not a 100% fit. Then on to the mirrors. Dismantling the Superb wing mirrors is the work of the devil compared to the CC. I eventually got it apart and put in the LED puddle light. However, after 30 mins, I still couldn't get it back together. Eventually I took out the new part and closely compared it to the OEM part. Again, it was slightly different, i.e. taller and was the reason the mirror wouldn't go back together. I eventually put the OEM one back in and reassembled. Not sure why the Aliexpress parts for the VW are dead on and slightly different for the Superb. Anyway, take my advice the don't bother or else suffer a world of pain. I'm going to take a look and see if it's easlier to fit an LED W501 bulb to the puddle light as that will be a whole lot easier. If anyone found a part that does fit, please let me know.

This should help. Yours is likely the Superb 2 facelift so may be slightly different. I know my wife's pre facelift are D1S bulbs. It's possible the facelift are D3S. While D1S and D3S look very similar, the bayonet fitting is different so not interchangeable. I think the only real difference besides that is that D3S are mercury free.

I'd do the rear brakes first and see if that cures it. Had the same rear whining noise intermittently on my wife's 2013 1.6 TDi although not getting any vibration. I checked and couldn't find any evidence of a wheel bearing either. It went through the NCT (Irish version of the MOT) last week and they highlighted that the rear pads need doing shortly. I'm wondering if there was a bit of binding going on causing the noise. I'll do them and see if that solves it.

Thanks. Any idea where I'd find it?

Apologies, just getting back to this. I did a full scan of the car yesterday. There are no errors related to the climate control. In fact, the only faults were related to the Radio and Nav due to me changing the head unit last year. I wonder if the aircon matrix needs a clean or changing? Not sure I'd go to the bother of changing it at this stage as the problem is fairly intermittent.

I did when the problem started first about a year ago. I'll check again to make sure nothing has cropped up since.

Hi, Noticed this a while back in my wife's 2013 1.6TDi Elegence. When on long journeys, usually on motorways, the air stops flowing through the vents and the car heats up. I quickly figured that by turning off the A/C the air returns in a couple of mintues. After a bit of reading, I found that it's due to the aircon matrix freezing and blocking the air flow. The common reason for this is that the system needs a regas. I did that, but still have the problem. From what I can see, there are no error codes. Has anyone else had this problem?

There are contact details on RCD330.com. I believe the guy knows everything there is to know about the RCD330. https://www.rcd330.com/dwqa-ask-question/

That I'm not sure about that. I have read that there are no issues with VW sound systems. Is the Skoda system different to VW or just rebadged?

Looking at one for my VW CC. It's a good option if you want Carplay or Android Auto at a decent price and they are OEM.I believe they are geniune VW units that were used in Asia and South America. However, there are a lot of copies around. If you see something for way under $300 then it's likely a cheap copy. From what I've read, Lemon Shark on Aliexpress are a good source. So is www.rcd330.com. There are two versions - Desay and Noname. Noname is considered to be the better as the firmware is upgradable. They are also available with green backlighting for Skoda. From my perspective, the advantages and disadvantages are: Advantages: - pretty much plug and play - may need a CAN adapter for pre 2009 cars to support steering controls and prevent battery drain - Works with your existing steering wheel controls - Shows parking sensor details (if you have them) - Think it shows HVAC details - not sure about this, but not a big deal Disadvantages - Built in microphone on front of unit - doesn't use an external mic - many say this works well so maybe not a disadvantage - No RDS - not sure if you can type in names of stations when saving - No built in satnav - have to use Carplay/Andriod Auto - not a biggie for me as I like to use Google maps. - No DAB - Wired carplay/Andriod Auto only - can be wireless if you use an adapter, but not sure how reliable these are - Front USB only - although www.rcd330.com offer a version with a rear USB

Like this one that specifies it's for amplified cars. https://incartec.co.uk/product/Volkswagen-Single-DIN-fitting-kit-Steering-controls-Highline-Amplified-FK-172-SWC2-D

Is it a factory sound system? I fitted a PIoneer to my 2003 Audi Allroad (I know it's a bit older). It has Bose and it needed special harness to convert the signal from the head unit for the Bose amp. I reckon the Skoda factory system could be the same hence no sound.

Happened on my wife's 2013 a couple of months ago. The clutch went to the floor and stayed there. It was the clutch master cylinder. We did the slave cylinder at the same time, given the low cost, to ensure the problem stays away for another 200k miles.

Central locking could be the wires that travel through the rubber bellows between the door hinges. Very common for wires in there to break over time. Had this problem on my wife's 2013. It started off with the central locking not working on one side and then the windows followed. Then the windows and central locking went on both sides. The boot still locked. While this was happening, my wife said the head unit was intermittently losing power. It hasn't happened since I repaired the wiring. Could be linked or a conincidence. Do a search. It's easy to open up the bellows to check the wiring. Repairing it is a bit more involved.

Quick update on this. I did the drivers side of the car. One wire was broken and a few others had cracked insultation. I repaired the broken wire and patached up those that were cracked. I'm recovering from a broken shoulder so will do a more permanent job in a few months when I'm fitter and it's warmer. However, even after fixing that wire, nothing worked. I then had another look at the fuses. I checked all the 30 amp fuses and found one that had blown. I swapped it out and everything worked again. This fuse didn't correspond with the fuse for the windows/central locking shown in the owners handbook. Not surprising as the handbook shows the LHD fusebox and they probably changed over time and would not necessarily be updated in the handbook. Glad that everything is now working. It's a bit of work, but using the Amazon/Ebay kits for around £30 is a cost effective option to fix the problem.

Not in English, but this video shows what you need to do to pull the full harness back into the door so you can repair. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TIrOqknAfCY

Thanks for the pointers. I had a go at this tonight and unfortunately didn't have much success. BTW, this got worse to the point where all 4 electric windows and the central locking (bar the boot) doesn't work. There were broken wires on both sides from what I can see. On the driver's side, there was a broken thin purple wire. On the passenger side, there were two broken wires - the two thick wires - brown and red/orange. Since the wires on the passenger side look more substantial (I'm guessing power?), I did that first. I bought this kit of Amazon - https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0C4JSY6BZ?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details. I really only need the replacement wires and the pins. I decied just to replace the damaged wires - I de-pinned the broken wires form the connector and added new wires that connect to the loom inside the door. I soldered them and checked that they were secure. To get this far I had to obviously remove the door card, the door stay and then push the loom back into the door so I had room to work on it. Removing the old brittle insulation tape was the worse and longest part. When I reconnected the loom, the windows and central locking still don't work. The passenger door speaker is working and the airbag light triggers when I pull the harness with the ignition on, so somethings working. I can reset the airbag light so not a biggie. Does anyone have a pin out wiring diagram for the Suberb II? Any pointers as to what else I can try? Is it possible I have to fix the purple wire on the drivers side to get everything working? I would have thought the passenger side window would at least work with the wiring in tact on that side. BTW, I did check the fuse for the windows and central locking and it's fine.

Thanks, I'll take a look.

Hi, Experiencing an odd problem with my wife's 2013 1.6D Elegance. Electrics on both passanger side doors have stopped working. This includes mirror, windows and central locking. I'll do a scan later, but anything obvious that could be causing this? Thanks,