Tropheus

Like this one that specifies it's for amplified cars. https://incartec.co.uk/product/Volkswagen-Single-DIN-fitting-kit-Steering-controls-Highline-Amplified-FK-172-SWC2-D

Is it a factory sound system? I fitted a PIoneer to my 2003 Audi Allroad (I know it's a bit older). It has Bose and it needed special harness to convert the signal from the head unit for the Bose amp. I reckon the Skoda factory system could be the same hence no sound.

Happened on my wife's 2013 a couple of months ago. The clutch went to the floor and stayed there. It was the clutch master cylinder. We did the slave cylinder at the same time, given the low cost, to ensure the problem stays away for another 200k miles.

Central locking could be the wires that travel through the rubber bellows between the door hinges. Very common for wires in there to break over time. Had this problem on my wife's 2013. It started off with the central locking not working on one side and then the windows followed. Then the windows and central locking went on both sides. The boot still locked. While this was happening, my wife said the head unit was intermittently losing power. It hasn't happened since I repaired the wiring. Could be linked or a conincidence. Do a search. It's easy to open up the bellows to check the wiring. Repairing it is a bit more involved.

Quick update on this. I did the drivers side of the car. One wire was broken and a few others had cracked insultation. I repaired the broken wire and patached up those that were cracked. I'm recovering from a broken shoulder so will do a more permanent job in a few months when I'm fitter and it's warmer. However, even after fixing that wire, nothing worked. I then had another look at the fuses. I checked all the 30 amp fuses and found one that had blown. I swapped it out and everything worked again. This fuse didn't correspond with the fuse for the windows/central locking shown in the owners handbook. Not surprising as the handbook shows the LHD fusebox and they probably changed over time and would not necessarily be updated in the handbook. Glad that everything is now working. It's a bit of work, but using the Amazon/Ebay kits for around £30 is a cost effective option to fix the problem.

Not in English, but this video shows what you need to do to pull the full harness back into the door so you can repair. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TIrOqknAfCY

Thanks for the pointers. I had a go at this tonight and unfortunately didn't have much success. BTW, this got worse to the point where all 4 electric windows and the central locking (bar the boot) doesn't work. There were broken wires on both sides from what I can see. On the driver's side, there was a broken thin purple wire. On the passenger side, there were two broken wires - the two thick wires - brown and red/orange. Since the wires on the passenger side look more substantial (I'm guessing power?), I did that first. I bought this kit of Amazon - https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0C4JSY6BZ?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details. I really only need the replacement wires and the pins. I decied just to replace the damaged wires - I de-pinned the broken wires form the connector and added new wires that connect to the loom inside the door. I soldered them and checked that they were secure. To get this far I had to obviously remove the door card, the door stay and then push the loom back into the door so I had room to work on it. Removing the old brittle insulation tape was the worse and longest part. When I reconnected the loom, the windows and central locking still don't work. The passenger door speaker is working and the airbag light triggers when I pull the harness with the ignition on, so somethings working. I can reset the airbag light so not a biggie. Does anyone have a pin out wiring diagram for the Suberb II? Any pointers as to what else I can try? Is it possible I have to fix the purple wire on the drivers side to get everything working? I would have thought the passenger side window would at least work with the wiring in tact on that side. BTW, I did check the fuse for the windows and central locking and it's fine.

Thanks, I'll take a look.

Hi, Experiencing an odd problem with my wife's 2013 1.6D Elegance. Electrics on both passanger side doors have stopped working. This includes mirror, windows and central locking. I'll do a scan later, but anything obvious that could be causing this? Thanks,

The Columbus unit in my wife's 2013 Superb died during the week. It started with a popping sound through the speakers, not turning on intermittently and then eventually died completely. There isn't a peep out of it and the buttons don't light up. I tried scanning with OBD Eleven and I can't communicate with the Nav or Radio modules. I have checked the fuses both under the bonnet and at the rear of the unit and both are fine so I'm guessing the main board is gone. I see that Rustynuts was advertising repair in the past but doesn't seem to have been on the forum in a few months and he can't receive messages for some reason. Can someone give me options - from what I can see, a replacement unit is £500+ which is hard to justify for old technology. I'd be more inclined to replace it with something aftermarket that has Carplay. I'd appreciate if anyone has any suggestions. A picture with the part number is attached.

My wife's 2013 is the same. Over the past year she's noticed that the driver's heated seat was not very warm. Now it's just the back that's working and not the base. I'll take a look at the fuses and connections, but I'm guessing it's the heating element that's at fault. I'd have a go at replacing it myself if there were any details on how to approach it.

I'm not 100% sure of the mileage on them. We were told when we bought the car second hand from a Skoda dealer that the rear pads and disks were just done. We've put about 50k miles on it since then. It really depends on the type of driving you do. Ours does mostly motorway. City driving would obviously wear the brakes a lot quicker.

Think I have it sorted. From what I can see form the Mintex catalogue, Ireland and UK markets are Lucas. All other markets are Bosch.

Hi, I need to do the rear pads on my wife's 2013 1.6 TDi Elegance. It's a pre-facelift model. Eurocarparts is listing two types of rear pads for the Superb. There is a choice of a Lucas or Bosch system and they appear to have different size pads. Can anyone confirm which is for the 1.6 TDi? Cheers

Have you checked the condenser fan? Failure is a common problem on VAG cars. However, if the fan was gone, you wouldn't get cold air when stationary or at low speed, but would get above 100 kph when the condenser is being cooled by airflow through the radiator.

Ok problem solved, you don't need to remove the hub bolt, but they were pretty welded onto the hub. A few taps of the Irish screwdriver sorted it

Hi, now in the middle of the job. Does the centre cv/joint/axel bolt need to come off to get the brake disc off? There's bugger all in the manual regarding discs believe it or not. If so, I need a trip to Halfords to get what looks like a 25mm to fit.

They were 312's. I could see them clearly behind the wheels so was handy enough to estimate the diameter without taking the wheel off. Ordered a pair of ATE discs for €96 with free delivery from Mister-Auto. Not too bad.

Thanks guys. The only way to be sure is to pop the wheel off tonight. Don't want the hassle of buying online and having to return them because they're wrong. TLV - my money is on 312's and will confirm that tonight.

I've seen similar posts for other types of cars. It usually comes down to it being cheaper and far less hassle to sell your car and buy one with factory xenons fitted.

I think you're right. Eurocarparts are offering me 288mm, 312mm and 345mm. All for a 2013 1.6 TDI.

Hi, Saw a few posts on this, but none specific to the 1.6 TDI. I need to replace the front discs on my wife's car. It doesn't have Greenline badges, but I'm pretty sure it is a Greenline. When I look at the various parts sites, I get the option of two sizes - 288mm diameter and 312mm. Does anyone know which is correct? The car has 16" wheels if that helps. This is what the workshop manual says about the 1.6 TDI. The fact that I'm not 100% sure it's a Greenline doesn't help.

We had our car just over a year when the leak happened. As it was a used car, we only had a 6 month warranty. We went back to the dealer and after a bit of haggling, they agreed to do the timing belt and the water pump at a 50% discount. We ended up paying €200 to have the job done which wasn't bad. I wonder if there is a problem with a batch of water pumps on the Superb? If you bought from a Skoda dealer, it's worth taking it back and seeing if they'll discount the repair work.

Do you know if it was an option or standard on your model? It's possible that you may need VCDS to activate it it wasn't standard.