RMurphy195

You don't need VCDS, there are several ways available online to do the job - there seem to be several variations depending on specific model, most claim to be "THE way to do it"!. On my 2014 Rapid Spaceback 1.6tdi the following procedure does the trick IGNITION OFF HOLD DOWN 0.0 BUTTON ON DASHBOARD TURN ON IGNITION MESSAGE “SERVICE RESET – ARE YOU SURE?” WITH OPTIONS “YES” “CANCEL” RELEASE 0.0 BUTTON USING RH THUMBWHEEL ENSURE “YES” IS SELECTED. PRESS RH THUMBWHEEL - JOB DONE! IGN OFF IGN BACK ON – REMINDER MESSAGE SHOULD NO LONGER APPEAR GO INTO MFD MENU > SERVICE SHOULD SHOW “SERVICE IN 9400 MILES OR 372 DAYS”

It sounds typical of a clagged-up EGR valve or throttle body (Have had something similar on 2 petrol engines and this was the cause in both cases)

There's a thread on here somewhere re use of the Saris Bones on the spaceback, might be worth looking up to see what he's done about lights. The electric kit for these cars is a tad pricey.

Its more to do with the weight distribution of the car than anything else, which is why the fully laden pressure on the Rapid has an extra 12psi on the back but only an extra 2psi on the front - when you add extra passengrs and luggage most of the extra weight goes on the back of the car. My MX5, which has about a 50/50 weight distribution, has the same pressures all round (with Summer tyres that is).

I'm surprised no-one has replied to this one. The key phrase in your post, for me, is where you refer to the emissions fix, and I can't help feeling there may be a connection. Before having my 2012 1.6tdfi 90 fixed I did some internet research, and having found the problems people were having I decided not to go ahead (loss of low-down torque, EGR failure, DPF failure, increased frequency of limp mode and so on) Is it worth your doing searches for up to date information? There's thread somewhere on this forum, however its a long time since I've looked, and I can't find it now.

Looking at the brochures for the new Scala, as a carvan owner I looked up the towing limits. And came across this "interesting" phrase "Please note in some cases it is not possible to retrospectively fit a towbar if the car is not fitted with towbar preparation at the factory" Now I never buy new, always low-mileage used, 1 or 2 years old. How an earth am I supposed to know, in a coupleof years time, wether I'm able to buy and use such a vehicle?

Yup, it is expensive for the electrics. The risk is that the vehicle electrics won't work properly with non-specific items, and your warranty would be affected if you have electrical issues. On my 2014 SB there was a lot of dismantling of trim to fit the vehicle-specific harness, for some unaccoutable reason it wasn't just a "plug in in one place" job. Job includes - or should include - re-coding the car's "brain" to act differently when the trailer is plugged in. There's a recent "towbar" thread in which I've posted more details on this.

Seen this? Looks like the panoramic roof to me ....

Slosh plenty of waxoil over the bare patch, and keep an eye on it. Trying to add underseal could be counter-productive unless you get it to perfectly seal against the existing stuff it may simply trap water and cause corrosion.

This makes the car pretty useless from my point of view, one of its selling points - an important one to me - is the availablility of a full-sized spare AND SOMEWHERE TO PUT IT! (My 2014 1.6tdi has the spare where it should be)

We have the Westfalia removable towbar on our Rapid SB. We did consider the "British" type of non-detachable bar but the fitters (who do lots of towbars, they are a specialist) could not guarantee that the ball wouldn't interfere with the sensors in normal use. Reason is I have a Witter bike carrier that uses a plate that bolts on using the 2 bolts, I used this when carrying bikes but not towing a caravan. I have found that if I leave the towball in place after unhooking the caravan, I can drive around as normal and there is no interference with the sensors. Having said that the "Ball on a stick" presents a smaller "target" for the sensors than the flanged one, the bike carroer plate presents an even bigger target! You do need the "software changes" - this means resetting the car's brain to detect the trailer plug-in. What happens is that once the change has been made, some things work differently once you have plugged-in the trailer electrics, this includes disabling the reverse sensors (a trailer symbol comes up on the display instead), and I thing it also disables the cars rear fog lights as well. Not sure about its reversing lights, I've never looked! And of course the flash rate on the indicators. Cut-out - the rear bumper folds under the car for quite a distance, so there is a large panel cut out of its underside, invisible from normal view. Mine is the Westfalia detachable towbar (https://www.pfjones.co.uk/skoda-rapid-spaceback-2012-onwards-westfalia-detachable-towbar.html), if I was doing it now I would look at the Witter detachable flange towbar (https://www.pfjones.co.uk/skoda-rapid-spaceback-2013-onwards-witter-detachable-flange-tow-bar.html), simply because of the cost of the ball if it gets chipped/damaged/wears out! You should only need to replace the ball with this one (maybe £20) instead of the whole plug-in mechanism (up to £170). When mine was fitted it involved removing a beam from across the rear of the car - the towing brcaket uses its mountings. I have this in the garage, make sure you get yours in case you remove the bracket before selling-on the car! I hope this helps - Richard. I should add mine is a 2014 Rapid SB 1.6tdi - bog standard version, just in case different versions have different bumpers!

Over time they went from not lifting properly, to not lifting at all and dropping the thing on my head! No leaks at all. And I was surprised - I've owned several hatches/estates (Astra's, Cavaliers, a golf and an old banger Fiesta) over the last 30+ years that all had lifting struts, and none has ever failed after twice the mileage(56k)/twice the age(2014) of the Rapid. Says a lot IMHO that the parts are so easy to get, esp at a discount. Mind you, not as bad a weakness as the old Golf 1.4 - consumed oil at the rate indicated in the handbook (never had any other car do this that wasn't totally worn out or leaking) - with the obvious knock-on effect on the EGR and throttle body. Same car also ate springs! So much for VW group "legendary reliabiity"!

My Rapid 1.6tdi 90 (un-ea189'd) pairs well with my '07 MX5 - and does a better job of pulling our caravan! Seriously though, without the diesle's torque I cant think the rapid would be anywhere near as pleasant, or economical, a drive. Michelin tyres all round, and while the gearchange on these cars is very nice thank you I do like to simply chunter along without changing gear too much sometimes.

For those who are interested (there don't seem to be many, strangely !) ... It is as easy as this video suggests Fit gas struts Really did take as much time as it took to boil the kettle for the tea, with the little lady holding the tailgate open. Cost the princely sum of £36.94 inc delivery. Loads of suppliers out there. Kilen 458022, original part no. 5JJ 827550 C.

I have the 1.6 tdi 90 (not-EA189'd), given the comment above about no turbo boost in 1st I'm glad I did get that version, plenty of oomph for pulling away fully laden or with the caravan on the back, plus plenty of mid-range for nippy speed control between 50 and 70 on m'way without lots of gear changing (when I don't have the caravan on the back!) Basic version, 15" wheels/tall tyres does the job it needs to do very nicely thanks, easy to drive around town, ride is much better than my friend's sports version with big wheels and low-profile tyres.

Well, I've ordered a pair of Kilen struts. Recommended by my local motor factor who didn't have them in stock but gave me a part number, though in the end I used the part no. off the originals which is 5JJ827550C. Price does vary dramatically on these for some reason, if anyone wants to know where/how much/did they fit let me know and I'll reply when they arrive and I've fitted them. Mick's garage has a useful video I've found, but they do seem to charge lots.

My tailgate struts have failed, so need replacing. So. 2 questions 1) I can find several on the internet, at widely ranging prices. Anyone have any recommendations of items that they've used successfully,or any to avoid? 2) Any hidden problems/tricks needed to replace them? Thanks - Richard

Here's my old Galaxy on the Tissington trail My Brompton on the Monsal trail Sadly the Galaxy succumbed to a local "driving person" in a pickup truck, so I replaced it with the Condor pictured here in Bristol. Modern wheels make it look a bit "blingier" than the Galaxy but they seem to work well!

When you ordered the bike I suspect you opted for the smaller 44 tooth chain wheel, howver on the cycling UK and Brompton forums there are owners who have swopped this out for a smaller chainwheel - 38 or even 36 teeth so you might want to google and see what you come up with. The conversion is not expensive and is easy to do, but you will need to shorten the chain. Mine BTW is the P6R - P is the handlebar that gives me the opportunity to get down to it if windy in open spaces like, say, the Tissington trail, 6 is the number of gears, and it has a rear rack! It also has the telescopic seat tube which allows removal of the saddle.I bought mine from On your Bike in Birmingham, and I took my other car (an MX5 MK3) round to see if the bike could be fitted into the boot! They spent quite a while experimenting, and came up with the seatpost option. In the Rapid, I remove the saddle and the bike then drops into the space behind the front passenger seat, surrounded by cardboard to protect the upholstery from sharp bits. Brommie owners will know that the fold is designed to keep the oily bits in the middle when folded, out of the way! Expensive it was but yes, my saddle was quickly replaced with the Brooks B17 (a fetching honey coloured one), and I quickly replaced the rear bungy it with the softer version. Marathon tyres due to the main intended use - railway tracks, Forest of Dean trails and the like with loose surfaces so a bit of tread gives me confidence. BTW avoid the Stratford Greenway if wet - even going up it on a frosty day will leave you struggling on your return journey when the path has thawed out. Why? Its clay, and it clags everything up, the mudguards if you have them, and you if you haven't!

This will rule out many car parks for forestry, lakesides, lochsides, outskirts of small towns in tourist areas and the like. Personally I wouldn't like lifting bikes onto car roofs (hard work, and nasty if dropped!) and I am reminded of a former colleague's experience, he didn't spot the low-slung log on an otherwise brightly-coloured framework around a layby entrance until - ouch, one not-so-smart Rover and a number of wrecked bikes. I tow a caravan so I tend to remember its on the back, but people do forget they have bikes on top sometimes! REAR-MOUNTED - Don't forget you will need a trailer board, you will need to factor-in the cost of the wiring for this. Modern cars can be expensive in this respect, you can often no longer simply attach a relay into the lighting circuit without risking compromising the car's electrics, and its warranty.

No 1 son has just bought a 2006 Touran 1.6 petrol. Unfortunatley no owners manuals, and Haynes only lists the diesel versions! I've googled, ebay'd and looked at the Touran owners forum but with little success to find an out some of the little things like Maintenance - intervals, oil spec (yeah I know Halfords and Castrol will make thier recommendations), torque wrench settings for sump drain plugs and the like - DIY'ers will know the sort of thing. Driving - MFD display and cruise control controls seem a bit different to my Rapid. Anyone on here have any old docs for these cars that they are prepared to dispose of? Thanks - Richard

Rapid 1.6tdi 2014, (not EA189'd!) I do get this occasionally, have noticed it under the following circumstances 1) Aircon going full blast when stationary and idling (sometimes, not always) 2) Car in gear and rolling forward slightly with clutch pedal down - engine revs rise from 750 to approx 900rpm. They die down if I stop, even on the footbrake. Guess its the EMS deciding I am about to drive off! My brother in law refers to this as the "anti stall", very useful for slow-speed maneouvring, I don't need the throttle at all - saves a lot of clutch wear. 3) I give my car a good run every couple of weeks. If I don't, then after couple of weeks around town driving the engine idles at approx 900rpm instead of 750rpm. Fixed by a nice day out, or driving using the handbooks instructions for clearing the DPF light with the engine working above about 2000rpm(4th gear, 60+mph, continually for 20 mins or more, roughly speaking) In the hot weather (outside temp 25 or more) then the fan does stay on for a couple of mins, esp if the engine has been working hard (pulling caravan etc.)

Some things to consider In France it is a legal requirement to ensure the headlamps do not dazzle oncoming drivers even during the day - to this end, the French police have been known to stop vehicles leaving the ports/rail terminal if they haven't got the adaptors I always put mine on. A few years back I got "flashed" several times driving in Belgium in daylight, in the rain, with headlights on. It turned out one of my beam-benders had fallen off. I now keep a spare set just in case. In France, use of dipped headlamps is compulsory in poor lighting conditions. You never know when you are going to need headlamps! For the sake of a bit of sticky residue that needs cleaning from your headlamp, do you really want to risk an on-the-spot fine? especially on the way back when you've probably got no Euros left?

Went to see a used car for sale today, with no.1 son. Its a Fabia Greenline Estate 1.2 diesel, '60 reg. A few niggles of course, but overall pleased with the car (engine lovely and quiet on startup, no smoke, all the usual things were oK - until I drove it. Oh dear. But rather than jump to conclusions, perhaps someone on here that has or has had one of these, can enlighten me 1) Cambelt or chain (it looked like it should be belt, but I have heard 'orrible things about chains!)? 2) In my experience, if the clutch pedal comes up a looong way before it bites, then the clutch is shot - unless someone more familiar with these cars tells me otherwise? Those are the easy bits - but now we come to the engine 3) Lack of power. Nothing below 2000rpm - flooring the throttle in any gear (even first) didn't result in any acceleration until the revs climbed above 2000 - 2500 rpm, unless going downhill. Well, acceleration under any circumstances was an exaggeration, more a gathering of speed if you caned the engine. My first thought was that it is non-turbo (if it had one, it must have been very small!). But I questioned the owner about EA189 and yes, it has had the fix recently. And the DPF light does come on from time to time, but is cleared by the usual motorway wizz So, what am I looking at - a 1.2 non-turbo diesel hauling around a car which, with 3 normal sized people in it is simply faaaar too heavy for the engine, or a motor that has been ruined by the fix? Car has about 90k on it, is tatty but solid and drives really well apart from the clutch and lack of power. For my son, if it is non-turbo that's a bonus (less to go wrong), and the resulting lack of power is all to the good with zero tax and great economy, and will do for a year or two. But if it's been "dieselgated" with the associated issues when that goes wrong (EGR failure, DPF failure, accelerated injector wear and goodness knows what else) then it's high-risk purchase. Any thoughts please - thanks, Richard. Oh, and if anyone knows how much a clutch replacement for one of these costs, that would be useful (West Midlands prices!) PS Almost forgot - any significance to the auto stop/start not working? My ODB scanner doesn't pick up any error codes.

Wot, nobody knows?