FluffyEyeball

I've had the same issue for a couple of years now. Fault code is something like : Headlight washer relay open or short to ground. I cant find the relay anywhere, none of the relays in the fuse compartments seem to supply the washers. I think the issue might be with the washers themselves or motors supplying them. I haven't had chance yet to dismantle the front of the car though to test of replace them.

Did you get this fixed? If so which sensor was it? I’ve just started having the same warning appear intermittently.

I had Brembo pads and disks once, and once only. Unfortunately I have to say I was extremely disappointed, and upon replacement, very concerned with their quality. Despite proper bedding in as per Brembo‘s instructions, the disks warped easily with a few thousand miles of having them during normal driving. Secondly, and more worryingly, when I replaced them near the end of the pads life, I noticed the friction material had actually separated from the backing plate on all four pads. They were only held in place by chance and the pressure from the caliper. A mechanic friend of mine has also had similar issues with Brembo in recent years, particularly pads warping. I would never buy standard Brembo stuff again regardless of how cheap it was. I now have EBC pads and disks and haven’t had problems at all, they’re around 60% through their life now.

I know that's what I thought too, but alas no. I do have some slippage downshifting if I'm not careful, and I also have flywheel rattle on engaging the clutch, however its done 82000miles now ! My next one will be a DSG because its lovely and I don't have to worry about the clutch

Don't know if its already been said, but I've fitted EBC front pads and disks on mine and they're brilliant. I chose the slotted disks and yellow-stuff pads, but they do standard ones too. Ive had brembo in the past too, and although they're supposed to be a quality brand I would not recommend at all. I got hideous squeal from them about half way into their life and excessive vibrations (warped disks). When I actually came to replace them, the glue holding the friction material onto the pad backing plate had disintegrated so there friction material just fell off. I was very lucky that it didn't come off when I was driving. As far as the fluid, I change mine at least every two years, sooner if it looks bad (it will become darker). I used ATE last time I think.

Definitely need an upgraded clutch, the OEM one cannot handle the torque. I had a stage 1 done on mine and the supplier put a 'low-torque' version of the full 316bhp map on it. When I questioned this and asked for the full map they refused saying that even the full stage 1 will shred the clutch, and advised I fit an upgraded one. When I have the money that is what I'll do, and the rest of the map can be coded for just 30 mins labour from the supplier.

Yes, this is correct. Coding is required to enable the car to monitor and correctly charge/discharge the battery and maintain it's proper lifespan. Not coding a new one won't break anything, but could make the battery life a bit shorter and the stop start not function as affectively. HOWEVER, not all aftermarket batteries can be coded correctly. I recently installed a Bosch AGM battery in mine and; firstly there was no proper BEM code on the battery, only Bosch's own, so I had to make an educated guess at the serial number and the manufacturer code and secondly there was no drop-down menu in my VCDS (as shown in this video) for the battery manufacturer (another reason I had to guess the manufacturer code). The most important thing to code, however, is the battery type and the aH capacity. From the research I've done, entering any 'valid' serial number will tell the system there's a new battery, and the capacity and type will allow the car to work out how to best use it.

When you say the service revealed you need a new one and you’ve had no problems, what exactly do you (they) mean?

Leaky leak leak for sure. Ive had this problem on mine since I bought it 4 years ago. The pump (auxiliary) was replaced under warranty. All was good. Not 12 months later it began to loose coolant again, albeit very slowly this time. Dealer cannot locate the leak and just top it up despite me asking several times. In fairness to them I've looked myself all over and under the engine at every possible location and I cannot find a leak, I've also done a pressure test on the system, as has the dealer, which yielded nothing. Wherever it's leaking, it's doing it very very slowly and/or only under specific conditions. If yours is under any warranty then get them to look harder, otherwise it's probably more cost effective to top it up occasionally than start have things dismantled to find the leak, so long as there's no evidence of it leaking into the oil it's unlikely to do any harm.

If VCDS says that its at 100% then it won't go any louder. Looks like you need a stage 2 with a 3" downpipe...😉

I don't think so. My vRS has the camera and the MIB1 Amundsen and I've enabled traffic sign recognition, but it throws up an error every drive because the MIB1 isn't able to combine speed sign data from the GPS and camera at the same time (although it displays the camera data just fine). I've searched throughout VCDS to try and find a way to have the speed sign on the MFD pulled from just the nav data without using the camera at all but I couldn't find anything. If I turn traffic sign recognition off then I get the speed sign back on the nav but not the MFD. As soon as TSR is enabled the nav seems to be unable to display any data without the camera (even though it is supposed to combine the two). If I turn off the camera settings for TSR and leave everything else for it coded, it just throws up errors and won't work at all. It's apparently a thing with MIB1's. This makes me think it's probably impossible to pull the data to the MFD without the camera and fully coding TSR, unfortunately.

@Mickvrs220 So it's taken so long, but here are some pictures

I have them, yes they are very good quality and are a simple fit replacing the existing light. They do stick out a little but don't get in the way at all. The projected light on the floor is very bright and crisp too. I'll get you some pictures later when I get chance Personally I'd recommend them over some of the cheaper ones, but that's just me.

@jezykowaty sorted

You'd be hard pushed to break the clips on the trim, a lot of them are metal and the plastic ones are pretty solid. A trim removal tool would be very useful, less chance of damage, and make it much easier to remove as it's clipped on pretty tight. Why a new rubber conduit? I found some WD40 sprayed inside helped a lot, or as said above something to pull it through would work. The headlining material will pull away from the edge and rubber seal easily, you must make sure that you route the cables above any airbags. There are some supporting brackets above the side airbags that I fed my cable through, and in-between them just tucked the cable behind the airbags. I'll try and get you a photo of what I mean later if I get time

Are you being very harsh with your braking quite often? Overheating them is the most common reason for warping. As Skoffski said, it's very unlikely the new disks will do that with normal (or even reasonably hard) use. Have you checked to see if one or both brakes are binding?

Yes, it has a fuel filter but it is incorporated within the fuel pump itself and cannot be changed separately, it's designed to last the life of the pump.

Skoda workshop manual doesn't list any other filter, and I can't find evidence of one. I'd not thought of the valves...I'll look into that thanks. It's not been driven very gently though, a mixture of normal and fairly hard.

Sparks were out a few months ago (after this started) for another reason, all looked good with correct gap. Air filter is less than 12 months old, although I haven't looked at it recently but I will do this, thank you. I use RON 99 fuel all the time. Used to be from Costco, but they've changed to RON 97 now, so I use Tesco as it's cheaper than Shell. It would only ever get less than RON 99 as a last resort if I was desperate, and only enough to get me to the next fuel station with 99.

Not really no, late 2014 car and it's just done 50000 miles. @Skoffski @GenOtmin I did consider the filter, but the fuel filter on the 2.0 TSI is integrated within the fuel pump and can't be got at or replaced individually.

I think they have a long life fuel filter on the 2.0 TSI's

Hi, my vRS TSI has in the past few months started this, it only happens when the engine is cold soon after starting. When accelerating through (usually) either 1st, 2nd, or 3rd gear, I will feel a brief hesitation in the acceleration. Almost like a 'cough' or very brief misfire? It happens usually under normal light-moderate acceleration. It isn't all the time, sometimes it will be perfectly normal, other times it will do it a few times that journey. Outside air temperature seems to make no difference to the frequency or severity. The spark plugs look good (changed within past two years during service), coils are not contaminated, and the car has never stored any fault codes that could be attributed to this. Any ideas? Thanks muchly

Check this thread out: Lots of info on there. I did mine a little while ago. To answer your question it's not complicated but no, it isn't easy, it's a reet pain in the ass unless you remove the headlight completely. There's two ways to do it: The first (and official Skoda way) is to remove the headlight unit which means removing the front bumper to get easy access to the rear of the housing. The second, which most people do, is to squeeze you hand in the little space at the rear of the light and access it that way. This is less complicated the bumper removal but the space to work in is so damn small. Then you cut off the plastic tab that covers the rear of the indicator, swap the bulb, and fit a repair kit to seal it back up. I got the repair kit from my Skoda dealer, can't remember how much but it wasn't expensive at all, a few quid I think. I used these LED's: https://www.horizonleds.co.uk/pw24w-cree-leds-pwy24w-cree-led-50w. They're more expensive than most others you will find online, but I don't trust most of the cheap ones. I'm very happy with these, they light up the whole indicator space evenly, are nice and bright (not too bright to dazzle people though), and look and feel very well made.

@youresocool sorted

@tr0ubl3 sorted