corndog

there are two racks on the fabias,ibiza, polo KOYO ones and TRW I might be wrong but i think most that are not within first few years of production will be TRW. Best thing you can do is get under it and look for a part number/brand on the rack Maybe there is other ways of knowing. I think the track rod inner joints are different but not like you can see that until you have it in bits

some reputable companies like pdparts or FADR sell ecus on ebay. sure they can advise!

as above or a blob of some tiger seal or something to hold it up

You've just triggered me. My two ibizas are very pretty (if you don't view them from the side) Ibiza should be a little lighter than VRS. as above it's probably just not in best condition, do it up for more power!

it looks good, i might end up trying the same on my Ibiza, thanks!

Nice project Have you got the bulbs in reflector headlights? Do you know if the ones you bought are supposed to work with reflector housings? I know nighteye ones are bright but don't have the correct beam pattern for reflector. Thank you!

bought some on ebay for £7, worked very well so far and came with about 10 different parts.

join the fabia vrs facebook page, someone will be selling one. I put a seratsport one on my stock mapped pd130 but only to get rid of the shocking standard boost pipes and possibly for upgrades down the line. Easy enough to fit on my ibiza with a bit of trial and error. Fabia needs a bit more messing with the crash bar and bumper but still easy enough

The randomness of it suggest to me it could be moisture/bad contacts somewhere, possibly your instrument cluster. That is quite a guess though

What kind?

is the Fiesta a 1.6tdci? My Partner has a mazda 2 with the same engine, doubt i will ever mod it but curious how well they mod? how much power do you get from them? Good luck with the fabia!

I thought they did do a 1.9pd TDI in one of the MKii models. think it is a pd105 which might not be the strongest for modding. 5 speed as far as i'm aware eg.

wash the area with degreaser, dry it then look for where the fresh oil comes from, hopefully easy enough

if you plan on doing any electrical stuff get a electrical clip removal tool If you want to do work inside the car a cheap multiset of trim removal tools is really handy would reccomend multispline bits too balljoint splitter

I filed out the 1/2" square hole on mine to fit a long allen bit through the socket. Either that or some mole grops on the allen key works great

is the pipe the right diameter? almost looks slightly too wide in the pic, unsure if that matters Only other advice i can offer is use Hairspray on the joining surfaces and try a better clamp maybe?

first get a rear anti roll bar if you don't have one. reduces understeer massively

Thanks TMB great I know Techies ones are superpro but imagine it is much the same

They are pretty tight in the rear beam. Unsure if i explained what i mean correctly This bit sticks out the side of the rear beam and fills the gap. with the powerflex one there is only that narrow end to it + the metal insert. Unsure if that is correct or not. Any ideas? Thanks

Hey guys Anyone know the how to fit the powerflex rear beam bushes? I have them like this but wonder if i am supposed to use the platic end from the old bush to cover the protrusion on wheel side Thanks for any help! Just as an update to the rear beam: I used a multitool scraper, wire brush etc to take off the loose rust then washed and painted on bilt hamber hydrate 80. Next i primered it then bilt hamber epoxy mastic. I might put a top coat on it but probably going to leave it like this I've no idea how it will hold up considering i didn't take it back to bare metal but no big deal if it doesn't last, not that important really! Did much the same on the nearside wheel arch and rear of the car where there were rust spots. On the chassis i mostly managed to get it back to bare metal then used deox-c gel and also used tiger seal after primer to replace damaged seam sealer/underbody protection. Will do more of this over the winter on other areas of the car polycarbide disc in my angle grinder workes so well for getting back to bare metal but not damaging the metal. Not so easy to get into contoured areas or tight spaces though

Fitted one with darkside pipes about a year ago on my ibiza On a fabia you might need to cut the crash bar a bit and you will almost certainly need to cut the bumper. You could swap to Ibiza crash bar The spandard pipes that come with it are apparently like pd130 ones with extruded aluminium lugs that wear and pipes leak/ blow off. Would reccomend aftermarket pipes The IC itself fits easilly on my Ibiza with the correct mounting brackets, one on either side. It way well take a bit of fiddling around so you might struggle to get it all done in one day if you find you need extra parts etc. I used a reducing 90 degree elbow with a bayonet adapter from forge to fit into the standard EGR. Most people use an EGR delete at this stage and just whach whichever pipe fits on that On the turbo end i used another reducing 90 degrees silicone elbow fitted to the standard turbo connector. Took me a while to figure out exact pipes and clamps i needed but i was in no hurry. has worked perfectly since

I think that is normal behaviour for these gearboxes. Not certain

mine were a normal bolt, should work fine

with the seat equvelent you could convert the cy changer cable to use it as an AUX but i never managed to get it to work (didn't try that hard tbh) I just bought an aftermarket one from halfords for £26 which has aux in and a usb port to put a usb stick with mp3 etc on it (though not powerful enough for decent charging of a phone) I had to swap two wires at the back to allow it to save settings etc

if they are the same APs that were on the ibiza cupra they will work with the standard cupra discs which were 312mm non floating