briscaF1

That's good going...! I live in a pretty hilly area so in think mine get a bit of stick. The Focus I had beforehand did about 55k on the original front discs and pads but I think they were in a better state than those on the Fabia; the Focus had drums on the back, too

My Mrs has a 2014 Fabia 2 but that's an 8V TSI with a cam chain (CBZA, I believe). The belt query was for my 4 cyl 1.2 TSI CBZC-engined 2017 Fabia 3

That's interesting cos I sent them an email on Saturday evening but had a reply this morning. Pot luck!

I did believe you but sent an email to Skoda UK, too 🙂 They said the technical dept had checked my registration number and it "does not have a cambelt service recommendation as it is fitted with a lifetime component." Interesting how you have been told 15 years etc and I've been told it's doesn't need replacing; I'm assuming that "lifetime" is in excess of 10 years 🤔 It'll be interesting to see what @jeallen01's reply says

My rears have delaminated so are in a real state. They need swapping out asap. When you say the difference was massive, is that a good massive or bad massive? 🙂 I'm assuming good. The fluid is original in mine so probably could do with a swap, too. I'm not planning on doing any Frank Kelly antics so I'll just be happy if they stop the car when required without needing two feet on the brake pedal, and last about as long as the factory items, without the delamination 😳

Ok, so I think this sticker is supposed to tell me which brake options I have via PR codes. I think the 1KT means 230mm rear discs but the front discs come up as 1ZE to 1ZG, which doesn't appear on the sticker. Did I get an oddball factory set?

Hi, Had new tyres on yesterday and saw the state the discs and pads are in. Car has done 55k miles so was expecting pads to be worn out but the rear discs, in particular, look bad; one has cracks in afew places. Was looking at some options at Euro Car Parts. I presume I have 256mm front/230mm rear (1.2 TSI 90, 185 R15s) as they look about those sizes if I get the tape measure out. Options seen to be Eicher/Bosch/Brembo/Pagidvand ATE. Out of those, I'd probably choose Bosch for both discs and pads but are they any good? I heard Pagid no longer make/they're just a brand but is this the case? Thanks in advance for advice

From people I know with BMWs, they've had quite a few engine problems but how widespread they are, I don't know Basically, I think you get problems with any car or manufacturer. I work in automotive electronics sector and I know from experience that a lot of expensive to fix issues come from wiring, faulty sensors, solenoids etc so, ironically, I tend to avoid complex mechatronic systems on cars I want to run cheaply. I also tend to avoid diesels as thet generally have DPF or dual mass flywheels for the same reason. Just my personal preference as I'm a bit tight 🙂

Any advance on this? My 2017 Kombi has a 4 pot 1.2 TSI, which I think is 90HP, 16V. It's 6 years old now with 55,000 on it and I'm curious as yo the belt change interval. @HyperDogI think you must have the same engine as I have as I believe all Fabia 3 changed from the 8V TSI at launch until 2017 when they changed to the 1.0 TSI 3 pot. In which case, it's 15 years or 180k miles? I always harp on that my old Focus mk 2.5 was 10 years or 100k so if imagine that the TSI belt would be good for similar.

Just to revisit this - I need to sort this out. Do I need to worry about the plastic part broken off in the rocker cover? Should I really be taking the cover off and getting this piece out rather than taking the risk of it allowing it to be chewed up in the engine and hopefully finding it's way into the filter?

I always buy manuals as I keep cars for a relatively long time and I want something simpler with "less to go wrong." Exactly the reasoning for avoiding DSG because it is asking for trouble. But, what problems do the Fabia manual boxes have? Is there a particular mileage that they're generally good for?

What effect will the viscosity have, though? From what I know, "thicker" oil may affect fuel economy a little and it may also take longer for it to reach parts of the engine furthest from the oil pump as it won't flow so quickly and if you're in a really cold environment, bit might be better to use a "thinner" oil. Is this all academic if the oil meets the standard because the standard will ensure that the vulnerable parts are always protected?

I'd read somewhere that the resistance doesn't matter until the spark jumps the gap and current flows, then it governs how long the spark is maintained due to it limiting the current. I guess this is where the RF suppression comes in, too Higher resistance should prolong the spark, then, which probably isn't a bad thing necessarily unless it overly weakens the spark. I imagined that the resistance of the leads is intended to match other components in the system, hence them supposedly being a specific value. I guess the important thing is that none are completely short or open circuit!

That's useful to know. It'd explain why two were around the 9k if that's what they're supposed to be I should have measured the new leads to cross check. The leads on it were marked "Bremi", which I'd seen for sale on GSF yesterday. I'd never heard of Bremi before that. I think these are the factory/original leads as the car was almost new when we bought it and still being serviced by Skoda.

Sorry I mentioned this. I failed to see how oil approved to a standard would be problematic unless that standard was designed to cause engines to fail, which I doubt.

I hope so. Been faffing with this, off and on, for a few weeks

There's proof that Castrol 5-30W LL 504/507 oil is responsible for the 20% engine failure rate that you quote ?

Update to this. Car was running ok for a week then partner complained about it jogging occasionally, mostly in 3rd, although it never did it when I drove it. Yesterday, it was really bad again, although no fault codes were logged, so I thought I'd start with changing the leads after comments about them breaking down. Bought a set of Bosch leads and swapped them over. When I measured the old lead resistances, they were 9k, 10k, 17k and an intermittent 40k. I think they're supposed to be 6k and it's recommended to change them if they're 8k+. Seemed to run well on the test drive so, hopefully, that's the end of that!

The oil is usually Castrol Edge 5W30 LL, which is 504/507, I believe.

Mrs car tends to do short journeys most of the time but I change the oil and filter about every 10 months with 507 spec which is probably overkill.

Thanks for the replies. Turned out to be an easy one! Put my reader on and there was a P0303, cyl 3 misfire. So, I thought it'd be the lead being the problem. Had a look at the lead and it's flopping around the top of the plug. The plug terminal has some white spots where it's been arcing, too. I've pushed the lead on properly and cleared the fault code. Seems to be ok on a short drive so I'll monitor it now for if it comes loose again. The plugs were changed about 4 years ago so it's probably due a new set anyway. Mrs is saying that she perhaps needs a newer car now after seeing the £1200 for a turbo! Can you not get refurb ones for a lot less or are they false economy? Again, thanks for the help and advice.

I've seen some other posts regarding EPC / ESC faults and misfires due to coil pack or plug lead so I'll investigate this, along with the fault code, when I get home from work(!)

Hi all, Just had a call from the Mrs regarding her '14 1.2 Tsi Combi. She said the EPC and traction control lights came on and there was some shuddering. From what I read, the car may go into limp home for this fault so I imagine that this is the shuddering? I told her to turn off the car for more than 30s, which cleared the faults, but they came back again after a bit of driving. This has happened a few times since, so it seems that it wasn't just a "one off" spurious fault. She did then say that the car had "jerked" before the faults came on (which may also be the shuddering) so I'm wondering if this is actually the throttle position sensor reporting incorrectly causing the jerk. Does this sound plausible? It's had new brake disks on the front but that was several months ago and I'm wondering if a wheel speed sensor has been damaged or disturbed but the jerking is making me think it is not that. When I get home, I'll try to read any faults off with a OBD2 reader. Any other suggestions? Thanks in advance for any help.

I normally put Castrol 5W-30 LL in, with a Mahle or Mann oil filter, although I see the Mahle filters now have "Made in China" on them, despite being the same price 😉 You can buy it from Opie Oils (and get a Briskoda discount if it is still running) or via Opie on Scamazon; putting your registration in at Opie will provide some options. The oil and filter is normally around the £40-£42 mark.

Rang around a couple of Skoda dealers for these parts today. One wasn't interested in selling anything to me and just said to call up "any old VW dealer" for the parts and the other was more helpful, didn't have stock and the bits (valve, grommet) would be 30 quid Inc VAT. Can anyone recommend a decent VW group parts seller? There seems to be a lot around but if I searched for parts on the websites, the part numbers weren't recognised....