SuperbTWM

Looking at their position, if I was doing the timing belt I would probably be tempted to unclip them and move them out of the way

I don't really see how a smart thermostat could save you a noticeable amount of money over a normal programmable thermostat other than if you always forgot to turn it down or off whenever you went out and plus the eather is different from one year to the next and so are the gas/electric prices so its hard to even tell. Its a bit like the smart meter con, if you are reasonably well educated you know that your tumble drier uses a lot of electric, so if you choose to use it anyway then seeing the useage on a smart meter isn't going to make you turn it off to save money. I have turned off the auto scheduling and the motion sensors and 'auto away' features on my Nest as I really don't like the idea of the thermostat trying to guess how warm I want the house etc. I just want it to do what I tell it or stick to the schedule that I set. The main reason I bought my Nest is because it learns how fast the house heats up. Because our living room radiators are a bit over size it does warm up quick, especially with the door closed to the hallway. Tried a few thermostats and with the overshoot in temperature plus the in built deadband it just went from a bit too warm to a bit too cold but the Nest does really well at guessing the residual heat given out and turns the heating off earlier. Plus, as mentioned above it looks a lot nicer than the Hive

The battery on the nest is purely for back up reasons, it does work for a while, maybe an hour or 2 but pretty much instantly you lose remote access via the app and just get a warning message telling you it’s lost power.

Ok but the point I’m making is you can put the Hive anywhere with no consideration. The Nest needs to be powered so you have to put a lot more time, effort and/or money into having it where you desire.

I've set up 2 Hive systems for friends, the set-up did not go smoothly both times, i think the issue was that I was trying to follow the set-up instructions but in reality I think if you power it all up they seem to connect and sync up on their own eventually. The main downside for me is that you have a box to connect to the modem, and the reciever and the thermostat whereas nest just has a thermostat and a reciever so thats one less box to have powered up near your router. I have a Nest and I'm happy with it, it did die recently though (along with many other Nests that have a common issue where the wifi chip dies) and I have to say the service from google was brilliant to say it was well out of warranty. As soon as I found the issue I went to the website, chatted live and within 10 minutes a new one was on its way, the next day a new thermostat and heatlink was at my door (now I have a spare heatlink also). One downside of the nest though is its power requirement, for it to look neat and tidy on the wall you either have to chase the wall out or in my case, drill through from a cupboard on the other side of the wall. Otherwise you have an unsightly cable running up the wall unless you have a table to sit it on with the stand. The Hive being battery powered does not have this issue.

Its having no measurable effect whether its 80, 90 or 100, what makes the DPF hot is fuel* (diesel) *in the case of an active regen

The engine temperature has no connection to DPF temperature

Possibly a stuck N280, you really need VCDS to see exactly what is going on here.

I take it that the diff. survived?

On some of the more recent Euro 6 engines You have 2 Valves. you have the throttle valve mentioned above creating a negative pressure on the intake to promote EGR flow and you also have the same set up on the exhaust making the exhaust pressure on the outlet of the turbo higher than it would otherwise be to get even more EGR flow.

Let us know what you find 🙂

Why don't you just strip it down and inspect first? You can do that for free. Just don't break it or it will cost you a lot more than £15 Also, are you aware that this 'throttle body' has nothing to do with the throttle pedal, like it would be on a petrol engine.

I'm pretty sure if it was an issue with the EGR you would have EML on and have codes stored as its emissions related. Its pretty normal to feel this sometimes, at part throttle the car really ramps up the EGR. Is it a 2.0 150 by any chance?

Try pressing the unlock button on the fob right before you disconnect it.

In that case I might start washing mine with the rest, was afraid it would fall apart seen as it specifically said not to machine wash.

+1 I use a Meguiars, at least for the top half of the car, for the lower bumpers, bottom of the door/sills I use a Meguiars microfibre wash mit, just because its easy to throw in the washing machine whereas it said not to machine wash the lambswool so I havn't

A nice feature on Our Ford S-max is that you can choose if you want adaptive cruise control or normal cruise, seems strange that VAG do not let you choose, not sure if any other manufacturers let you do the same

If you run it long enough for it to complete the regeneration process the fans wouldn't run on after you turn the engine off.

Don't quote me on this because I arnt going to stat the car to find out either, but..... I think the limit only applies to car in neutral, if you have the clutch depressed as if you have an intention of setting off i'm sure you can rev it all the way, so I don't this makes a hoot of difference. I will definetly check tomrrow if I remember

Was it an OEM part? For it to get cooked it either has to be a heat shielding issue, or the diaphragm in the sensor is repturing causing a flow of hot exhaust gasses through it and thus cooking it, could the pipes be blowing off it somehow?

Yep, which makes the 2.0 150 a Wet clutch 7 speed

out of those years you want the 2.0CR engine. The late 1.9PD engines with DPF are to be avoided like the plauge and you see the odd post on here about injector issues on the 1.6CR which would also make me sway towards the 2.0, The fuel economy difference doesn't seem worth the reduction in power for me Usual issues as with most VW products is crappy waterpumps, EGR valves can fail and changing one is a bit of a nightmare job which makes the job quite pricey

Looks good but I bet for anybody who knows cars and the 1.8t engine there will be a to-do list a mile long. The engine alone will probably be have vacuum leaks galore and clogged breather pipes, probably have to take the sump off for piece of mind also. Also, its showing its age a bit now, without a doubt a very uncool car, especially at 4K. Seller is an absolute chancer

I don't think people filling up at the pumps are cycling the ignition and waiting for the level to come back so i'm pretty sure its an unnecessary worry.

On a PD engine, it doesn't really matter so much, after the lift pump is the tandem pump and it is still only a low pressure pump (10BAR) so a bit of air through the lines probably wouldn't cause any damage to it. If you want to prime it for an extended time, if you put 2 spade crimps on a piece of wire you can just short out the relay base and this will put power to the lift pump. Common rail engines are a completely different story as there is sometimes another auxiliary fuel pump between the fuel filter and the HPFP which should be run as well as the lift pump to prime all the lines. If you follow the advice above you will likely have no problems but if you end up with an airlock in the system and have to crank for a long time with no fuel then excessive wear can occur to the HPFP and if that grenades say goodbye to your injectors as well.