SuperbTWM

Autopsy of old engine?

Nice job @Wino Have to mark you down on H&S for the lifting equipment though

How much does it weigh? I suspect the extra weight makes it a lot better than a typical ICE corsa with a tiny engine

I would't think so, I think running rich/unburnt fuel can kill/melt a cat

How old is the battery? sounds like its a bit tired to me. Have you scanned the car for fault codes at all? sometimes if the battery is past it you get sporadic codes for low voltage on some modules.

Depends on the circumstances. When did you take the measurement? When was the engine last run?

If its had the fix you can make use of the extended warranty they offered maybe?

All I can think of is sometimes the steering light might come on but it will go off as soon as you start driving.

Its best practice to disconnect the battery whilst playing with airbags, I do believe you could reconnect the battery afterwards and as long as you don't turn the ignition on it shouldn't bring the light on, but I havn't tried it for a number of years.

FYI, Halfords AGM batteries have 5 year guarantee, for 096 size £159 or £127 @ trade price. I did some googling and they are made by Yuasa aparently so thought it was a good buy for our S-max which was struggling on original battery.

Good afternoon all. I'm in the process of claiming for a windscreen for my Passat which has ACC but none of the other items such as TSR or Lane assist etc so it does not have the front facing camera. Am I right in thinking there should be no calibration involved in changing just the windscreen, seen as the ACC sensor is built into the Badge at the front? Just want to confirm as it seems to want to take the car in so they can recalibrate the system but as far as i'm aware they could do it on my drive as nothing connected to ACC is in the windscreen.

Sounds like the pump to me, worth a diagnostic scan to check it.

I would get a second opinion, Its not beyond the realms of possibility that your local garage isn't very good. I would confirm with somebody else that there is are no underlying issues with the car that would stop a regen. If you have had this issue a while though and have continued driving the car you could have essentially filled up the DPF too much to the point it needs replacing rather than just taking on a long run. Most people that specialise in cleaning DPFs out also usually have a good knowledge on how they work so could probably diagnose any other issues with the system at the same time so that could be worth a try.

The aux. heater is one of the biggest consumers on the car, while its on, at least on my car, the revs rise to 1K as if it were doing a regen, so its probably the first to go if power is short. If you take it to the dealers with a power issue and there are aftermarket items fitted they will likely tell you that is the issue regardless.

Good data, thanks for sharing

If your car has a charge cooler, do not mistake it for the pump for that.

Its just another addition to make a small impact on emissions more than anything else. For arguments sake the alternator will charge the battery to 80% and then the voltage will drop to the point where it runs all the consumers and maintain the state of charge. You then have a long period of braking like getting off the motorway or an extended period of engine braking and the battery now has 100% charge. The car then drops the alternator voltage below the battery voltage and lets the battery drain from 100% back to 80%, during which time the engine is basically just free-wheeling the alternator saving a few polar bears.

I agree, terribe idea for anything with an intercooler or charge cooler.

You can find out from the codes on the sticker thats usually somewhere on the boot floor. You can normally have a pretty good guess by knowing what engine your car has, if its got 70 BHP its not gonna have 272mm discs,

Can you explain how?

Quantum can be had for £25-£30 delivered from the popular auction site

I find having the air con all the time is a bit of a vicous circle, it leaves the evaporator damp which leads to more condensation the next time you get in your car meaning you need to have the AC on again. Since I started to leave it off it probably gets used a handful of times between the end of summer and the start of the next. Only if its a really really wet day or I have a few people in the car do I ever need it.

The current monitor on the battery post also measures the temperature which is near as you are going to get to actual battery temperature without a sensor built in the battery.

I think it does go to a default level but I can't confirm that level is 13.7V. I think it would work fine in a pinch if you needed to get the car away, but otherwise just buy the right battery and don't be a cheapskate.

For my boiler to support it I needed to buy some sort of wiring loom, presumably so it could modulate the burner directly but wasn't sure if this was going to work out as well as having a boiler that natively supported Opentherm. It doesn't seem that popular though so I'm of the opinion that it can't make that much difference, once the system is up to temp the burner is only ticking over anyway so having the temperature(of the CH) even lower would probably involve the burner cutting in and out or running so low the efficiency falls off anyway. It might make the control slightly better in terms of temperature of the house but I don't think it would save any money. If it was a genuine breakthrough in technology all the latest new build houses would have it yet its been around for years and I havn't known anybody that has used it yet.