SuperbTWM

If you are prepared to give it enough force to snap it, it may just come out anyway. If it comes out in 1 piece or a thousand you don't really have many other options. How much do you trust your mechanic? 😂 If you are religous you could say a little prayer for it? If it was me doing it I would try a low powered impact and give it some with that first to try and break any corrosion in the threads loose. It doesn't help that they are a tapered thread usually

Are you sure there isn't another underlying code causing the EML to stay on, in the past glow plug codes did not initiate the EML however they are important post starting for a clean burn so I can see their change in logic for modern diesels with DPF's etc. I see you have no option really than to bite the bullet and change the faulty one, isn't an EML an MOT fail these days?

Sounds obvious but have you remembered to plug everything back in correctly, electrical connectors/vac hoses, pipes etc. ?

Sounds like a sticking water pump impellor sleeve could well be your intermittent cooling issue. There's no way the load on the engine was more with an empty trailer than a full one. I'm not sure what functions you get with OBDeleven but with VCDS you can activate and deactivate the water pump so you may be able to excercie it with the engine running (it uses the water pressure to move the sleeve) and free it off maybe??

Yes your info is spot on, I just wanted to mention the recent changes which isn't that clear in your link but this link does clear it up: https://www.gov.uk/guidance/new-rules-for-towing-a-trailer-or-caravan-with-a-car-from-autumn-2021 Looking at it again, it looks like everyone now gets the B+E, not just between 1997 and 2013

As of 16/12/21 B+E category was automatically given to people who passed their test after 1/1/97 but before 18/1/13 so your second bullet is now no longer the case. People who passed their test after 19/1/13 still have to take their B+E test IIRC

That is just a reccommendation for stability reasons really and people with less experience towing.

I would borrow one first to try, the USB ports in my Passat charge my phone really slow, I have a feeling they are only 500mA so won't be any good for a wireless charger.

adds an extra electric pump and another radiator but it does save on a hell of a lot of intercooler pipework which probably helps a lot with throttle response I'm not sure it could be driven like this, i'm not 100% sure where the exhaust gasses are taken off the manifold but i can imagine if its after the DPF and its doing a regen its going to be very hot and could potentially melt the egr valve or parts of the intake if there is no cooling

I'm not 100% but engines under 2.0 which have the dry cutch might not need the water/oil cooler so won't have the additional stat. I'm pretty confident everything with a wet clutch will have the oil cooler.

The simple answer is you need to control the temperature of the gearbox just the same as you do the engine.

IIRC the second of the two auto settings has a higher fan speed than the first, i'm sure it will be in the manual.

Not only was the sleeve stuck it had gotten misaligned and was rubbing on the impellor slightly making a noise on tickover. I ran the car with the aux. belt off to narrow down the noise but it persisted so i knew it had to be some component of the timing belt

This was my water pump (left) taken from a 2.0 TDI 150, despite reduced water pump efficiency there was no overheating issues but I don't tow and the car is never driven hard. RHS is new one

Changed my timing belt and water pump on my Passat 2.0 150 this year at just over 4 years old with less than 60K on the clock. The reason being that there was a bearing/rubbing/catching type noise. It turned out to be the sleeve that slides over the impellor on the water pump had seized and cocked over to one side rubbing on the impellor. VAG really suck at making water pumps, My Superb water pump only lasted 30K before it leaked. The price you have been quoted seems pretty cheap to me, the VW price is nearly £800 to do timing belt and water pump for literally the same job. It cost me £400 in parts from the dealer to do it myself.

The ones which look like a stick of liquorice.

I pulled a screw out of one of my seal inside tyres, I think it might of sealed itself if i had given it enough time for the sticky goo to plug up the hole but given that the wheel was already off the car I didn't want to chance it and used one of those dodgy repair kits and its been fine since. I think I would carry one of those repair kits over the opting for the seal inside and failing that I don't think I would ever buy a car without a spare wheel either.

Because they want to get at least 1 timing belt change in before the car is at an age where the owner doesn't really care about main dealer servicing. This is a bit of a pointless discussion anyhow because the waterpumps that VAG fit either leak or the solenoid operated sleeve fails and causes overheating way before 5 years so might as well do the timing belt job then

If you use a sensible sized brush and have not enlisted a 5 year old to do the painting you should be able to paint the bit inbetween the caliper no bother.

Have you had a good look at the connector that goes to the Haldex controller and checked for any corrosion? I think there should be an earth strap on there somewhere as well. On this generation you don't actually get an EML for any Haldex codes but scanning the Haldex module with VCDS or any other good scanner should point you in the right direction. The fact that you have had the EML light on may suggest a wheel sensor or other ABS/stability control issue like others have suggested so again, you need to do some diagnositcs to figure out what is going on.

It is if the glow plugs are working correctly, have you checked them all? The post glow helps to stop the smoke on colds starts more than pre glow does. If you have excessive smoke its probably more to do with other issues with the fuel system like the injectors On the pre-PD engines you could adjust the glow time but I don't think you can on a PD but all you will be doing is masking your problems anyway

Glow plugs spend most of their time on post starting that they do pre starting. That might be why you heard the relay come on again. helps with combustion in cold temperatures and probably uses the CTS to cut back out again

He won't have if he shorts out half the brake switch. IIRC the ECU sees both inputs from the brake light switch so it will bring on EML, and it may still cut the throttle when braking, interested to see if it does though

If you are doing long Journeys you still can't beat a diesel for fuel economy. I think hybrids come into their own doing shorter runs depending on how much range it has vs your commute. Once your running on that 1.8 petrol engine pulling a load of weight around its going to bring the average mpg down dramatically.

Are you sure thats not just oil? I have suggested the charge cooler before to people with mystery leaks but have never known anybody have one fail but it is perfectly plausible.