SuperbTWM

If it's and AWD model it will be as capable with or without the selector switch, the selector only does a bit of fine tuning, it does not turn the system on and off, the system is active at all times to step in if required.

You made a school boy error! Diesel cars do not have a throttle valve to control engine speed like a petrol does, they only have them for EGR and anti-shudder purposes. Glad you got there in the end!

It's not just about the compressor, it has to be matched with a condenser and evaporator as a system It sounds like there is something wrong if your air con is not performing very well. There are some things you can monitor and check with VCDS but the first step is to check the refridgerant charge, that the compressor is running well and there are no obvious obstructions to the condenser and that the fan is working ok.

Yes you are right, if its a DSG it will take you to a crawl in traffic and then back up to the speed setpoint only needing a jab of the accelerator pedal if you come to a complete stop to resume the ACC. The manual however does not do this presumably because plodding around at slow speeds would mean you would be changing gear like a maniac

It is an MOT fail, cleaning it up like new will only raise suspitions and considering the detremental effect it will have on the ride it is probably a good idea to treat it to a pair of new dampers. Also, don't be an idiot like me and try and get away with aftermarket ones, you will be changing them again in a year!

Have you checked the engine mounts? Also, did you put a good shock absorber on it? I replaced my rear shocks as they were leaking with a pair from Monroe and roughly the same time I got a rear knocking noise which I was convinced was an ARB link but after a year I noticed the Monroe's were both shot so bit the bullet and bought 2 new genuine shocks and what a difference it made to the ride quality and all the strange noises went away. I should really follow my own advice, the aftermarket parts these days are atrotious.

This is a common occurance, even at the main dealers and when one inevitably snaps off in the head and needs drilling out it is the customer that pays the price!

Just keep driving it, it will move eventually!

If you have a compressed air supply, to me it is a no-brainer, for £25 on ebay you can get a vacuum filler. That said, I don't think the system will be particularly difficult to bleed by just running the engine and topping it up as you go although I have never had to fill up the charge cooler circuit from empty so who knows how well that will go. You can manually cycle the main water pump, the auxiliary water pump and the charge cooler pump with VCDS. There may even be a setting specifically for helping with bleeding the cooling system.

I think in cars of old (60's, 70's maybe into the 80's) the temperature was adjusted by altering the flow to the heater matrix via a valve in the coolant circuit, so in this case you are absolutely right, having the heater set to cold would be isolating the heater matrix. Now all the control is done on the airflow side with flaps and such. So you are not wrong, just a little out of date

This is bad advice for 2 reasons: The heater matrix has a flow regardless of temperature setting and also if you have the heat set to max it will draw all the heat out of the coolant and the thermostat will take forever to open making the bleeding and filling procedure take forever especially on a diesel. The easiest and best way and as per the manual is the vacuum fill system which is a piece of cake as long as you have an air compressor at hand. Alternatively you just have to fill it up and be patient and keep topping it up. A TDI warms up very slowly so you can't harm much, its more a case of making sure the charge cooling loop gets filled up nicely. Having VCDS is probably usefull as you can cycle the two electric water pumps. Also, make sure you disconnect the connector on the main water pump, otherwise you won't get full circulation until the micro circuit reaches around 70 odd degrees

If somebody quotes to replace an injector on a PD engine and they are surprised that the injector is inside the rocker cover...... FOR THE LOVE OF GOD RUN FAR AWAY FROM THIS MAN

I'm sure I've only ever used the RH windback tool on VAG models. either side is clockwise to wind in from memory, never had any bother using the same set as above. The Transit brakes I did last weekend were opposite on either side but they did have an arrow on each casting to tell you the direction it wound back in which was nice.

The AWD system adds a lot of weight, saps power and ruins the fuel economy. Did you not consider this before you bought it? I find the newer generation of engines leauges ahead of the old ones. I think my 140 Superb II was about 10 seconds to 60, my Passat 150 is around 8.5. It is like a rocket ship compared to the superb for what seems like a similar engine on paper

In a manual, turning off auto hold stops the handbrake from being applied automatically when you turn the ignition off. Have you tried that?

What mileage has it failed at?

A compatible replacement could have been set up for much heavier boot lids hence the violence. I recently replaced the struts on my toolbox lid and they were way too strong, in fact I couldn't shut the lid at all as the brackets were bending. In my case and in a lot of cases, universal struts have a grub screw where you can vent out the nitrogen until you get the balance right. Maybe the design is not ideal and if so, there is probably no solution as i'm sure you have worked out. Hopefully the wave of people moaning about their Scala boot lids will come along soon to make you feel better 😁

There's only a few things that can stop the boot from opening well, some sort of tightntness in the hinges and faulty/tired struts. Usually the struts can get tired after years of use but it sounds like yours were never very good to begin with so I would make sure the hinges are lubricated and maybe replace the struts. Have you had the car from new? never had a rear end shunt that could have damaged/misaligned the hinges?

Drain sump and put 5-30 504/507 in it

It is hard to quantify that but I know that when I see a failed injector post on this forum it will be a 1.6 and not a 2.0, I have no idea why, essentially it is still a very similar injector. No idea what years are worse for it and whether the probem has improved or not. What is a sensible idea maybe is if you have one fail, replace the full set, especially if it has reasonable mileage on it. I do appreciate most people don't want to buy 4 injectors when they only need 1

I think getting the codes from the car will probably reveal all!

Maybe the battery was 80%+ when behaving normally and could not accept any or a very low amount of regen braking energy vs. a low battery that could take all the current from the regen braking

From the track record on this forum with the 1.6 engine, it is probably an injector, that said, it could be a number of things but glow plugs is not one of them, not unless a tip has snapped off and caused major damage The glow plugs stay on post starting to help combustion and emissions but I doubt you would notice if one or more suddenly stopped working. Looks like whatever the problem, the car knows about it and you are in limp mode

I’ll get a picture of it later on this evening rather than trying to explain. I’ll see if your engine code is in my manuals as well, that should give a definitive answer but I’m 99% sure it’s just a normal pump.