SuperbTWM

Diesels don't require the air throttling to run like a petrol does. As J.R has stated above, the 'throttle' valve is for a controlled shutdown of the engine and to create a negative pressure on the EGR pipe from the manifold to promote flow. The flap will bring up a code if its not happy so more than likely not your issue. If it was sticking shut you wouldn't be able to drive the car at all, even if you did manage to start it

Been default on all the cars I've had but there could be an option somewhere in the infotainment maybe? Should be as above, one press only should be safelocked. I believe if you turn off the interior motion monitors, this also disables safelock so make sure this is enabled also

You read the manual?

.......fix it until it is?

I would say there is probably an NRV passing or a small leak causing all the stored vacuum to dissapate quicker on one rather than the other, assuming you had them both running at the same time and then turned them off and unplugged the vac lines at the same time on both cars? I would say its probably not affecting performance or you would be getting underboost codes but to prove anything you could do with plotting actual boost vs requested on a steady 3rd or 4th gear pull with VCDS and see what the curves look like. Maybe each one is mapped differently

Did you unplug the vac line that goes to the vac supply or to the actuator? Did you definetly take off the same pipe on each car? Was the car running when you did this?

Usually the brake switch has 2 sets of contacts, one for the lights and one for the ECU so this may not test it fully. This is so the car can verify itself and give a code for a faulty switch if required.

Please upload some pictures of how low the car is once you have them loaded

I've never loaded up an Octavia so i'm going to go with at least 6 as a sensible option, 8 if you are feeling brave. I think any more than that and the bump stops will be getting tested

Problem with cheap meters is you can’t trust them and can start second guessing them We have a situation where he’s not measuring any voltage across any of the fuses. So it’s either user error, there is no parasitic draw, or the meter is pants. might be easier to just pull the fuse for the radio and leave it a week see if that sorts it, and if not work through the rest of the circuits

I don’t think you can expect that multimeter to be reliable at voltages so low. You need something a bit more upmarket for this method to work. There must be some circuits in there using power

You could be looking for a reading in the region of a few mV down to tenths of mV. What multimeter do you have?

Always wanted a heated front screen but I never seem to be able to drop on a second hand VAG car that has had it fitted that ticked all the other boxes. Top job!

not sure of PN but its of that design, its the sleeve that sticks IIRC

Same on our Qashqai, no auto lights but they did turn off with the ignition therefore no prompt to turn off the switch when removing the key and opening the door As a result my Mrs drove around with the lights on for 90,000 miles of driving as she was never prompted to turn them off, and also, as a result of never turing them off, she never thought about turning her lights on when driving any other car. Until people started beeping at her anyway TBH, making yourself more visible to other drivers can only be a good thing.

I get where you are coming from but anything that could be suggested is purely guesswork without the car in front of them. The water pumps have an adjustable sleeve that can stick, there are also different cooling loops as mentioned above, it could be the thermostat, or it could just be a dodgy sensor reading. I doubt it would be the radiator fan unless you live in a very hot climate as in the UK you hardly ever hear them running on a diesel unless its doing a DPF regen or the air con is on. (which btw is how you could prove they work) You are obviously not going to start tearing the car apart to figure out the issue on the advice of anybody on this forum and risk voiding the warranty so the quickest way to resolve your issue is book it into the dealer IMO.

is it not still in warranty?

How old is it?

Also, with a leak this small, I don't think you can rule out a weeping waterpump or a small external leak as it will more than likely not be enough to make its way to the floor but it will leave a residue, a good thorough inspection of the waterpump with the timing cover removed will pretty much tell you for definite.

Deffinetly a fault, possibly a fault with the design that has been sorted out, especially in a 2018. BTW i'm not saying this is your issue, by the sounds of it, if it was the issue you would see evidence of coolant being released from the cap on the header tank, so if its all clean and no residue you will be ok I think and you will have to look elsewhere.

I questioned somebody that said that on here, as it sounded like rubbish to me, and while the DPF cannot ever consume coolant itselfs in the literal sence, it can infact cause coolant to be boiled off locally in the EGR cooler and overpressurise the system momentarily causing a small loss of water. I cant remember if this is a symptom of the silica bag in the header tank rupturing and blocking some of the cooling passages in the egr cooler or heater matrix (which is downstream of the egr cooler) There is a thread documenting this on here somewhere

I think there is some over thinking going on here, the only purpose they serve is to add a little bit of accent or mood lighting or whetever you want to call it when its dark, same as the footwell lights, same as the doorhandle lights and lights that illuminate the vent controls you get in the Superb and other models. The Golf mk5 had these in 2004 and that might not have been the first VAG to feature them so its nothing new,

the longlife service regime is up to 2 years or up to 20K calculated by the car, fixed servicing at a year or 12K is best IMO but you could argue in the short/medium term it probably wouldn't make any difference. I had a mk1 TT that had barely had 3 services in 65K and I removed the sump as a preventative measure as it wasn't uncommon to have sludge uild up but it was like new inside. I think 5-30 is regarded as having the better protection vs the better fuel economy of the thinner oil. If you decide to service it and reset the indicator yourself it will default to fixed servicing

Or a pesky bypass relay for tow bar electrics maybe?

About to do the rears on my Passat at 43K, got brembo discs and pads due to them having some paint on the hubs and edges of the discs to try and slow the corrosion down. Fornts have probably 50% left at least