SkudMissile21

@SomethingSuperbly no, no warnings or issues at all. the car has always started fine. I was thinking of doing the battery purely due to the age being 4.5 years at the time but after it got drained right down on the way to the dealers (ended up on a transporter after giving me a box full of neutrals half way there…) I decided I was going to replace it immediately after the alternator for peace of mind. oh and I never got to inspect the alternator myself so no idea!

I changed my efb to an agm battery last October after I had an alternator failure (and associated dealer warranty nightmares…) I ended up going with one from Halfords, the 70A one that was a direct fit with 5 year warranty. Coded it myself with my VCDS but the procedure was very simple as others have said. No idea about your obd11 but I also have an old Carista dongle that seemed to be able to do quite a lot so might be another option as you can get those around £30 and get a free months full features usually? I guess Halfords could have coded it but not sure I’d trust them to actually do it properly! No issues since and always starts straight away even on the very cold mornings or when it’s been sat for several days.

Update: had them fitted today, drove a few miles across town and through traffic (all felt good) then went for a spirited blast on some of the bumpier straight roads near me - definitely vastly improved control over the bumps without the increasing oscillation that used to occur when going over successive bumps at speed. initial impressions are that it was money well spent.

Happens on my 2018 as well sometimes. Noticed it after a dealer visit (maybe the diagnostic equipment is resetting things?) but also possibly when the trip computer for long term mpg resets (around 3000 miles?). could it be related to that?

I had a front spring break just after Christmas so had both replaced at the same time. Was planning to go special actives soon so that was the kick I needed to order them on special offer last week, being fitted in 3 weeks (earliest my local Indy can do and not desperate anyway) - can’t wait to see if it sorts out the ride when pushing on a bit on my local bumpy roads!

I had the same and had to have the solenoid replaced under warranty. to open it try pressing against the flap door while locking and unlocking. also giving it a thump with the palm of your hand while locking and unlocking. That’s how I managed to get mine to release, if you look at it afterwards once open it becomes obvious where to press.

I paid £20k for a 2018 67 plate 280 Sportline in sep 20 with 20k miles on and it now has 39.5k miles on yet looking on the Skoda used site and autotrader not long ago they’re still rare as rocking horse droppings and I couldn’t find one for less than about £23k with the same or worse mileage than mine has now. Factor in the newer 272 models and add another £3-5k. Our sleeper Audi S3 / golf R’s are both rare and valuable it seems 😃

Non mapped standard 280, initially ran it on sainsburys 97 octane and averaged 27.5mpg over about 3500 miles. Switched to 99 octane shell v-power or Tesco momentum and saw it increase to 29.5mpg over similar miles. Has recently dropped into the mid 28’s probably because I’ve been using manual mode a bit more and enjoying the power and gears rather than the constant desire for 6th gear that the standard drive mode seems to do. And to answer a previous question, 70 mph is 2500rpm in 6th rising to about 3000 at 80 which is the only downside and probably why the later 272 has the 7 speed

Yes these cars do accelerate brutally quickly even in stock form. My standard 280 has given me a 0-60 log using a Bluetooth dongle plugged in and my phone of 5.2 seconds several times consistently which seems to line up with other peoples experiences using more reliable equipment like the draggy etc. If I ever do push the button on a stage 1 I’d guess mid 4’s would be expected. it’s amazing how easily you get used to it though every now and then it scares me how quickly it goes when I decide to play…

Yep it’s a trick I’ve learned to use when at a junction and I want to get away swiftly. Doesn’t take much movement either to get it to start. That combined with the 4x4 and 280 engine makes for a pretty speedy launch usually without actually having to use launch control (which would look rather silly at every traffic lights! 😆)

It only takes one scumbag though with the right technology doesn’t it? Those of us with the high power 280/272 versions know that while our cars are sleepers to most for those that know what they’re looking at they can be a target for theft so I’d rather play safe personally

I bought 3 faraday bags for mine when I got it (only ever use one key anyway) and they have a second pouch with a chain to move the key from the secure pouch to the non blocked pouch for driving etc. I’ve discovered they’re not completely reliable at blocking the signal and it does depend on how well the Velcro part is closed when in the blocking pouch if it actually blocks the signal - I regularly forget to move it out yet still manage to enter and start the car like that yet sometimes it won’t open at all or opens and then says key not detected. I figure it definitely reduces the signal distance and considering the key is not kept near the external walls it’s unlikely a relay attempt would be successful on mine. I would be interested in the WH SMITH box mentioned above though? I Google it but didn’t get any results? Have been thinking of getting a better box type solution for home and just doing away with the pouch idea when I’m out and about.

My 2018 Sportline 280 has heated seats but not the steering wheel. luck of the draw it seems based on who was specifying the options when it was new but obviously some things are easier than others to retrofit. I would guess adding heated seats would require replacements seats, console panel for the buttons, wiring and possibly controllers as well?

There’s posts on here somewhere about doing the fix yourself with washing up sponges

Had the same on my 2018, dealer had to replace the complete 4 way switch unit in the drivers door. I did discover it would work one way if I pressed it lightly for the controlled down but when pressed all the way for one touch it did nothing on all four windows yet the others all worked fine on their respective door switches. Also scanned with VCDS and saw implausible signal faults on each switch when operating. i have video but it’s 150meg so not easy to add here….

Yep fuel pipe rattle, had it on my 2018. Exactly 2.5k rpm 70mph in 6th sounded like it was in the door pillar between front and rear. fixed by the dealer under warranty and no issue since, think it’s actually under the floor panel somewhere and the fix involves some foam wadding around the pipes.

Think we will have to agree to disagree there and if I choose to remap my car is will have sod all to do with you thanks!

I’ve got a 280 so that won’t be going anywhere for a long time!!! Got a motorbike too so don’t need a weekend toy, why would I want to change this car when it’s so good?!!

Good to know. I’ve already had the fuel flap solenoid replaced under my new warranty, £17 in parts plus labour out of my £403 - only a bit more to go…😂 Still in two minds if I’ll continue with it after the next year or go Revo instead. Really want to experience the remap on this beast but might end up staying sensible and standard, decisions!!

I’ve had to reset this fault several times after dealer visits so I’d say yes it’s possible. Unfortunately VCDS is required to clear it….

Car went in today and the flap solenoid was confirmed to be failing and replaced there and then. can’t fault Carr’s in Bridgwater this time, new management and staff there seemed really helpful and even gave me a brand new 71 plate Scala with less than 500 miles on for the day!

Yeah I also use them on a lot of my journeys and wouldn’t want to be without them. Not always necessary but very useful to have them for pushing along up twisty hills to avoid it either hanging onto gears at high revs in sport or constantly having no torque until it shifts down again from 5th or 6th! In manual can shift around 3k and be in the right range all the time plus it feels like you’re driving an f1 car then! 🤩 Also on a list of potential mods (like fitting vc, heated seats etc) it’s about the easiest - just change the wheel for a like for like one with the paddles and no coding required so it’s not the be all and end all if you can’t find one with it out the factory

Yeah I find them very comfortable even after a 5 hour drive 😉

Ahh, good old Skoda electrical gremlins like electric windows not opening, door locks failing, fuel flap staying locked, rear wiper stopping half way up to name but a few I’ve personally experienced….. hope you get yours sorted! 😬

Probably easier to re-shell the main key 🤣