Martin201

I found the mk11 was much quieter than both my mk111s.

Hi, did mine last year two minute job if memory serves.

Hi, there are four slots, two top & two bottom which you need to pierce and put in a head unit removal tool/ flat screwdriver to lever and pull the whole thing out. I had mine Jammed closed 🤬

Hi, I found a hole with unused grommet through drivers footwell when I fed a washer hose from washer tank to new rear camera. For access I removed the front wing which was not a problem at all.

The oil was less than 100 Miles old so still as new, yes I changed the O rings and fill plug but didn't use the drain plug as only needed to top up 150-200ml by just removing the pump. The longest / hardest part is getting the car up level twice to work under. Also carried out a pump learn function with VCP.

I cleaned the strainer for the Haldex (4x4) pump, which is the second time of cleaning. Although the car was booked in to have its first MOT, brake fluid change and the Haldex serviced with the addition of a strainer clean which the main dealer agreed would be done for me as requested. Things didn't quite go as planned , a couple of hours after dropping the car off at the dealer I got a call stating that the mechanic had said what filter did I want cleaning as the Haldex didn't have one to which I repeated to the service person that it is a small white strainer on the end of the pump and I know that Skoda do not think it needs cleaning but it is a cause for pump failures across the VW group and I want it done. An hour later the car is ready but they say they didn't have time to do the filter but I could book it in some other time because it will take 3 hours and cost £300 just to clean it. Fuming, I calmly explained it an extra 10 minutes work and said ill have to do it myself at home again thanks for nothing. So the question would be are they incompetent or dishonest? At 12 Month / 14,000 Miles At 36 Months / 28,000 Miles So according to Skoda / VW this is not a service part and only an oil change is required every 3 Years. The second one was 80% as dirty as the first so I will clean again in another 14k or so.

Put fuel in for the first time since March !!! Well I tried to yesterday but the fuel flap was well and truly stuck fast. After an hour or so yesterday lock unlock bother repeat, without damaging anything I managed to slide the painted cover off and WD40 as best I could. This morning after trying again to no avail I removed all the panels from inside just in case, nope so put back. Lightbulb moment..... I had been looking for a screw to undo but the black plastic surround is removed by inserting a tool/ screwdriver in four positions (2 top 2 bottom) and levering. Then with a reasonable amount of persuasion hay presto out hello fuel filler cap. I removed the locking mechanism from the back and replaced everything else so now as before but no lock until I have a chance to get it replaced.

Hi Shugmo Its an original part 5E0 713 146 D I bought it with some other parts from skoda-parts.com for around €18 with €8 delivery. It’s only a two minute job, put the lever in drive for more space pull the lock button back and with a thin piece of plastic/ screwdriver inserted in the front flick it out (the go round into the back seats and retrieve it :-) )

I managed to slip out for a couple of minutes and did this! The 4X4 to me means Off-road which isn’t what I got the 280 for.

Hello the_worrier, Try here http://www.superskoda.com/Skoda/SUPERB-III/Rear/

Hi Gez280, Welcome to the 280 club, I believe the paddles require a steering wheel change which can be done (£100 option from new). DCC was standard on the L&K and the different modes are noticeably different to each other.

Hello Sikas, I used the information needed on this site for a few euros where you can during the time purchased ( an hour) browse/ download and print all aspects of electrics, maintaining etc. https://erwin.skoda-auto.cz. I don’t remember removing the subwoofer but the rear seat is removed by pulling up at the front edge each side one at a time where there is a clip, then at the side near the back of the door opening/ front of wheel arch push the seat down quite hard and backwards in one movement. The seat backs are held in at the swivel between the two, unclip the plastic covers and there is a screw which clamps this in place. The side panel is held in by three or four screws and an expanding rivet but first the small panel on the C pillar just needs pulling off from the top.

Hi Barrie2 as explained on page one I had fitted a bar to both my 190 tdi 4x4 Sportline and 280 L&K without any cooling mods. Only tow sailing dinghy or small box trailer though never a caravan.

The nearest I found with the pin 1 was that due to the length the only thing it could reach was pin 1 of the wiper motor (which I don’t have ) I believe is ground? I will get my son to code when he next visits and any issues it’s coming out. Also ran a pipe from the camera down the drivers side through the bonnet release cable grommet to the pump which to my surprise had two outlets (one capped) so just a simple clip on. I removed the wing for access which was quite easy as never done this before especially on a car I bought new just over two years ago.

Got a kit from Cars Equipment, but looking from what you say I think they have sent a kufatec loom. From what I have since read should have gone somewhere else, but indeed I have soldered the CAN wires to the existing connectors with no errors showing. I still have to get it coded in though but if the loom is as you say pants I will probably find another and replace it. Do you mean the pin 1 wire is not used? I appreciate your input Sasha thanks.